Interesting topic.

I'm in process of full resto on an Evel Knievel right now that I will be selling when done. This is 3rd EK I have restored, the first had an NOS PF, second had a CPR Silkscreen & this one is a Hardtop on a PF that has had all new insterts installed in it to make them look correct fresh colors & make them pop, whether lit up or not.

I chose to go the HT route on this game for couple reasons, one was I was able to get a new HT off of a Pinsider at a discount, So I did'nt have $350+ in it.... I think I paid $250 shipped. & I just did'nt feel like dumping nearly a grand into a CPR (with shipping) Plus, I was going to have to clear that with $60-$80 in clear coat materials, 5+ hours of my labor & wait about 3 months for my clear work to cure in between coats etc. So I just went the cheaper/easier route of the HT.

I don't have a great close up pic of it, but my biggest downside to HT's is the cutouts around where the wire guides go etc. I know they need to have holes there for the wires & it needs to have slots etc for the rollovers, but they are just too big IMO & they make the HT look goofy in those areas when closely looking at the PF. On some areas I take a black Sharpie & "fill in" the area that is cutout for the wire guides, It just makes the areas less noticeable IMO, compared to bare wood. My eye at least seems to pick up the bare wood under the HT more than if that area has color even if it is a heavily contrasting color like black.

I value this game when done with a HT at about $1000-$1200 less valuable than I would if I had put a Cleared CPR in it. Maybe $800 less if I had just thrown a CPR in it out of the box, which I pretty much won't do anymore. So I guess that's my opinion... game is not worth as much with a HT instead of a repo.

I have not played many games with a HT, but can not fathom how the PETG material (which is every bit as hard as normal auto clear IMO) Plays any different than a quality cleared PF. I'd have to play the same game before & after, which is never going to happen... not going to put a HT on a game with a cleared PF, & not going to typically replace a HT'd game with a cleared aftermarket PF either.

I'm certainly not basing my de-valuation on game play basis, more so on looks/ how close to original is something made. A Silkscreened CPR EK PF is way more close to original than a Hard Top PF. Even a digital print current version CPR is as well.

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One other thing I will say on the debate...... I have been extremely impressed by the art team at Outside Edge, whoever is doing their color selection & general overall art is doing a very good job IMO. I think several aftermarket PF manufacturers could learn a thing or two about color choices from Outside Edge. I think their color choices are great, the print quality is excellent.

Funny I've got three rotisseries going right now, 2 CPR PF's & the EK Hardtop & as soon as EK is off the rotisserie an EBD LE Hardtop PF is going on it. Best part of doing a HT I suppose is not having to dimple/drill all the holes on the bottom side of the PF, since it's an original PF, you know the holes are all in right place etc. Saves a lot of time. Those CPR's are definitely time eaters & you can't trust where the laser markings are for the holes, the CPR Stars I'm doing, about 1/2 the laser markings are in wrong locations.... so everything has to be hand fit & tested & marked before drilling. CPR Cheetah was closer to being on.

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