(Topic ID: 220229)

Bally Turf King: A 1950 prebingo.


By rufessor

10 months ago



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  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by shaundburch
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Bally Turf King
Sweet sign of success - 160 replays on the score reels.  I had been troubleshooting a wrong-pay problem that occurred only on a 160-winner or 320-winner.  I discovered that the switch on the Replay Counter that should open on the 40 (resized).jpg
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#1 10 months ago

Welcome, if your here from the find/save this game thread... this game was saved. By me!

Reference there for additional backstory if interested in how I came across a free- near museum quality, 1950 Bally Turf King... .. . that was hand delivered to my house on a trailer across some of the hottest desserts in UT on a 100 plus degree day... by a dude I never met... .. . and he would not take any money or even a bottle of water in return. Apart from the hour and a half we spent touring my resored games and talking about their rules, he would accept no renumeration.

This thing landed in my lap because neither myself nor the guy doing the delivering- Mark, had the heart to see it thrown out or to do the throwing. So he towed it 300+ miles because he was coming to Salt Lake City anyway. He’s a stand up guy with a curious mind who wondered about the game and recognized it as something someone, somewhere, would want. I tried to get a friend to take it and posted it on pinside to have someone else save it for free (10 dollars was the actual advertised price).

When those efforts failed Mark and I hatched the plan and he brought it up- making it to my house at a bit past 11 pm, today.

Look at what he dropped off.
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#2 10 months ago

I note- the 1951 license for operation is for Salt Lake City, Utah- which happens to be where I live.

I decided it found a permanent home and I am going to move it in to the space I had for the Gottlieb King Pin I am working on slowly.

I will have to restore this one by doing a crap ton of wire tracing and mending. For some reason, a ton of a major wire bundle for the cabinet (no wires from head were cut- jones intact) are cut. I don’t yet understand why but I don’t even know how to get the glass off. But it’s beautiful and it is going in as a display.

I will clean it and polish it carefully but that’s it. Not fixing a single thing cosmetically or replacing a single part unless required for functionality.

The wires scare me a little bit- but I think it’s handleable once I learn how to get at the game and actually see what’s down there.

Initial glimpses of mechanics reveal delightful engineering and amazingly cool design. They built the insides beautiful too.

#3 10 months ago

Wow, that is indeed a beautiful thing. I love these bumper caps and that little cover where the ball comes in the shooterlane...

#4 10 months ago

Thats really cool. There was one for sale around me recently that i passed on. Wish i would have grabbed it. Not nearly that nice though!!

#5 10 months ago

Congratulations! Fantastic condition - the red plates and buttons especially. The front of the cab is also in great condition. These things are normally worn from kicking (to try to get an advantage - doesn't work that way, but it doesn't stop someone from trying) and just pressing those buttons millions of times.

The game play is phenomenal, and the tie to local history is wonderful as well. I think you'll like it.

Happy to help, if you need me!

#6 10 months ago

Nice find, good luck with the restore!!

#7 10 months ago

Thanks everyone-

Please, can anyone can tell me how to do the complicated stuff- like take the glass off....

Or remove the playfield or about anything else

All help will be appreciated- or directions to a good resource. I gotta look around the interweb and see what’s out there for this era.

I rubbed a few spots and the dirt lifts off pretty cleanly- other than that I am out of my league currently, but having worked on EM’s will assuredly make this a heck of a lot easier!

#8 10 months ago

There are two big wingnuts inside the front door that hold the lockbar in place. On Turf King, the glass, lockbar, and siderails are all one unit! Pretty heavy, but also relatively easy to lift up and move out of the way.

Removing the playfield requires removing the plugs from the backbox. The playfield can be removed by undoing a couple of the plugs in the back , unscrewing the playfield lockdown screws (left and right sides) and lifting/pulling out - not too bad! With the plugs cut, you just have to unscrew and lift.

Last, the big mechanical panel on the bottom will slide out. There is a small latch in place that prevents it from sliding, but can easily be moved. Move this, and you can slide the entire panel out. As you slide, feel underneath the panel and you will find the 'kickstand', which will allow you to work on the panel without removing it entirely from the game.

Should you choose to remove it - there is a handle integrated into the front of the mech panel, use this to pull and lift, and use your other hand to steady the panel.

A few things to check first: 1) condition of fuse blocks 2) condition of fan on motor (this uses a metal fan - a style that can easily be bent or broken - if bent, you'll want to make note to attempt to fix before turning it on).

Otherwise, it's relatively straightforward EM stuff - the motor is divided into sections and is fairly easy to work on. I use a piece of string to clean the slip rings - like flossing teeth. Check for gunky build up anywhere - but hopefully the inside is as clean as the outside... mine had a lot of grease packed into the trip relays. The should snap like any other trip relay, but they are mounted on the motor, which is a little unusual at first glance.

One other 'gotcha' - all of the bulbs in the backglass are 17V - the four playfield lamps are 6V. There is no dedicated 6V winding on the transformer, only a set of resistors to knock down the voltage. Those then run through a dedicated fuse.

There's not a lot on the Internet for this game, but the manual is pretty nice, especially for 1950!

#9 10 months ago

Awesome information. Thank you!

My buddy noticed the Wing nuts last night and we almost went for it but it was very late and we held off for clearer heads.

I have cleaned a few dirty playfields in my time but wonder if there are special precautions to take with this era. Any gotchas that I need to know about-

I am tempted to use only a very very very slightly damp rag to wipe down and then move to isopropanol and very very gently magic eraser- barely at all- but I want to be able to scrub just a tiny bit and don’t want water anywhere near that really old wood.

Objections?

Else that is the plan. The cabinet paint is completely bomber- that I can clean somewhat aggressively and I will go ahead on that end.

As you said- fan is indeed bent and I have not powered on- no plans to do so until I see the electronics and dig a lot more.

#10 10 months ago

I see two balls on playfield below the feature hole. I think Turf King is just a "one ball game".

#11 10 months ago

I have one got at a auction for $25 was going to strip it , but instead got it mostly working . I have 1 wire by the rectifiers thats off but can't find out where it goes . The mechanical units were also gummed up a lot of cleaning. I have video's on youtube under mrsilverballmania.

#12 10 months ago

Cool- I will have to check out the videos. Thanks!

Yeah- two balls... that’s the least of the problems! See below-
However I did include a pic of the two balls cause one is super cool. It’s bronze color and has an almost hammered finish. Is this original??

And then we have the wiring. I am now officially unsure how to tackle this.

Not sure why anyone would ever do what was done. But someone cut clear through the wire bundle coming from the under playfield mechanical and switch tray- to the cable connector mounting board. I am missing 4 large Jones plugs (24 pin- 2 rows of 12). Someone else (so I assume) has solders about 15 wires back together.

The good is I have plenty of slack and can easily accomplish the repair very neatly.

The bad part is I am so screwed trying to match up wires and ordering on jones plugs.

At this point if people can throw in pics of their Jones plug connectors to the connector board- some close up some back a ways- I can at least figure out what it’s supposed to look like and then start contemplating a plan.

I need 4 2x12 Jones plug males connectors first...

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#13 10 months ago

The backglass is nearly perfect for this old of a game. The only real damage is to the white which i can actually fix but don’t have plans to do as of now.

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#14 10 months ago

The switch stacks and reels and motor are all pretty good. Two stacks are taken apart and missing coils and mounting hardware- I think. There are cut wires associated with those. I am now wondering if this game was used for parts at some point. Just a few and nothing remotely expensive so it seems almost stupid to suggest. But if you needed 4 Jones plugs and a few switch coils and mounting stacks... that’s what i see missing. Everything else is factory and seems to function- motor may be sticky/stuck but that’s to be expected after 70 years.

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#15 10 months ago

Did they cut through wires associated with the female plugs, or the male plugs? Yep, that'll take some work.

The original balls were brass with a plating on top - this prevents magnets from picking them up and allowing for cheaters to win.

Some turf Kings had five balls installed with no rebound rubber at the top. Four balls would fall into the 'skill lane' and the fifth ball would actually be played. Most that I've seen have the rebound rubber installed in front and would only take one ball. If there are only two in there, someone was tired of losing.

Cleaning the playfield: my normal cleaning routine worked just fine. The playfields are pretty hearty.

#16 10 months ago

The instruction card you posted above is for the 5-ball game. As Nick stated, the 5-ball "Skill" game was a clever way to get around local laws that prohibited one-ball games. Bally was always ahead of the game.

#17 10 months ago

I need to slow down and appreciate the details like 5 ball and 1 ball games and fully read the manual and all instruction cards. I have three- one in the game and two rules cards that are probably slightly different but at first glance appear the same.

For a 5 ball game- that basically means 5 balls per credit right? I don’t see ya way of counting. The reset mech to return the balls is awesome- works like butter and is very ingenious.

As for the cut point.

I actually discovered that the Jones plugs for the display have all been repaired and all wires are somehat neatly soldered
(no shrink wrap!!>doh<

So it’s pretty clear that at some point in its history someone cut every wire between the jones plug and the main board.

So I think- assuming that above is true- that the cut points were probably fairly close to the jones plugs- but some of the wires have been rejoined and soldered together with no plug- so I basically don’t have a clue presently. I got it open- pulled out the mechanics- removed the playfield and got the backglass door to open by removing lock. So I feel a tiny bit satisfied and know how to get at the game. I need pics of a working game and some time to figure out what the hell got hacked.

No rush- it’s awesome to look at. I have to say- I am very surprised how cool this game is. The wire springs that line the playfield are art work and the general scheme and colors on the cabinet are very cool. Seems like about 90 bulbs behind the backglass! Holy cow!

#18 10 months ago

Assuming the female side of the jones plugs are there I would start by comparing the wire color/tracers on the cut side to the female side. Assuming the already soldered wires appear correct you have a start it will hopefully become a conquer one wire at a time.

#19 10 months ago

Indeed the wiring to the female side is all there (about one plus feet), then a similar length has been unbraided on the other side. I can start trying to match wires for sure, ugh....

I think the household decision is to clean it cosmetically and bring it inside to stabilize and to admire. I need to finish King Pin before I rip into this. And I should also finish my Bally Play Boy before I rip into this. I will post as a clean up thread for now. This thread is going to stall hard (possibly years) once it’s cleaned up. My goal is to bring it back, but reality is it’s a random thing I even have this and I want to finish my other game first.

The more I look the more obvious it becomes that someone started to restore this and it never got done. The wire bundle is unbraided for a foot or two around the cut and many wires have been paired up and some soldered. I really wonder who started this. Obviously, you don’t need to unbraid to cut... so whomever started it, I will eventually check your work, but thank you for all of what appears accomplished.

Pics is available would be great and will certainly hold here as a great record once I do start with this, so please post if available and I promise they will be used at some point.

#20 10 months ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

Some turf Kings had five balls installed with no rebound rubber at the top. Four balls would fall into the 'skill lane' and the fifth ball would actually be played.

Ok- this is interesting. Is the “skill lane” the red covered bit just past the rebound rubber. I was trying to figure out what that was for. Is the idea that if you plunge with enough force (and maybe not too much?) that the ball would go under the red chute. What happens then?

Sounds like a fun game if it can be switched up like that.

So historical question- how did these work in the sense that they were easily used for a type of gambling. Would you be able to ask for a payout from the bar for credits on the game? And how then would they be removed? Just play and bet all a few times until they are gone? Or was it different and more like two people playing and wagering on the side?

Finally- just exactly how much skill is there in getting the ball to the hole you have selected? I am guessing it must be at least a very significant advantage but is still also somewhat random. I guess what i am asking is- would a modern game have a larger component of skill. That seems almost self evident give lack of flippers and the extremely heavy cabinet. Just curious how these were used and what the deal is with the gambling aspect.

#21 10 months ago

Also- turns out the paint and art is basically 100% there and bright. Some cracks but basically no missing paint whatsoever. I have found on me tiny chip missing- like a 2-3 mM triangle piece.

Top roughly 2/3 has been

Damp rag
Isopropanol and Magic Eraser
Novus 2 polishes
Waxed with carnuba

Pretty excited to find that art under there.

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#22 10 months ago

The "skill lane" is used when operating the game in 5-ball mode. After WW2 the law started cracking down on 1-ball games so Bally started making their 1-ball games convertible to 5-ball games. To skirt around the laws that were specifically against 1-balls.
Instruction on how to convert your 1-ball to a 5-ball are covered in your manual. You need 4 more balls (don't use that brass thing) and a special ball gate (it and the balls were originally included with your game) to replace the rebound rubber/bracket. This bracket allows the first 4 balls to enter the small trough under the red cover, and rebounds the 5th ball away like the rubber does. The idea is you use your "skill" to shoot the first 4 balls into the skill lane (the skill to pull the plunger all the way back and release) the 4th ball landing in the trough operates a switch that allows the 5th ball to score, if you land in a lit hole, of course.
Most of the skill involved in playing the 1-balls is learning which number holes the ball has a tendency to land in (the balls tend to gravitate toward the center of the playfield so numbers like 3-4-5 are your best chances, then 6-2, 1-7 not very often) and to play enough coins/credits to get the appropriate numbers lit, either directly or thru the wild sections lighting up. And getting the odds up high enough that if you do win, youll get back more than you spent.
If you won (and the location knew you well enough) you could ask the proprietor to pay you off (usually a nickel a credit) and after you were paid the proprietor could clear the credits from the game. Either by turning the game off and then on again, or by pushing a button on the under side (in the alcove) of the cabinet.
In looking at the pictures of your game, it appears you may have a "Frankenstein" made of 2 or more different Turf Kings. Your cabinet has the coin entry above the door and the coin entry and shooter housing are cast pieces. These were found on the early production (no AB prefix on the serial #) games, which had the feature hole score advance via a stepper unit (like a replay stepper with a drum with small numbers, visable thru the backglass) mounted in the games head, to the right of the replay register. The later production games (with the AB prefix serial #) had a set value for the feature hole, adjustable thru a plug on the slide out mechanism panel, towards the back, past the mixer unit. Also, the later ones coin entry and shooter housing were a stamped out type, rather than cast. Its not serious but may require a few changes at the jones plugs to adapt.
Your Turf King does appear to be in pretty nice shape cosmetically. A couple of pinsiders emailed me suggesting I go get it, But Ive got enough 1-ball games and parts here already, so I passed on it despite its (sorta close) proximity to me. I'm in SLC too.

#23 10 months ago

What a nice game you have - congratulations. Russ Jensen did a lot of writing about the one-ball horse racing games. Here is a link that is worth reading:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/one-ball-horserace-writings-of-russ-jensen#post-4192489

The 1951 license is a great collectible all by itself.

#24 10 months ago

Can you post the serial number from your game? You'll find it on the right side of the cabinet near the ball shooter.

#25 10 months ago

Wow - your playfield, where you cleaned it, looks new. I've never seen a game where there wasn't a solid ball trail in the ball shooter lane and top arch. Looks like a very low mileage example.

#26 10 months ago
Quoted from BlackCatBone:

Can you post the serial number from your game?

Absolutely-
See pic but it’s an AB game- so this leads me to the next bit...

Quoted from bingojoe:

In looking at the pictures of your game, it appears you may have a "Frankenstein" made of 2 or more different Turf Kings. Your cabinet has the coin entry above the door and the coin entry and shooter housing are cast pieces. These were found on the early production (no AB prefix on the serial #) games, which had the feature hole score advance via a stepper unit (like a replay stepper with a drum with small numbers, visable thru the backglass) mounted in the games head, to the right of the replay register. The later production games (with the AB prefix serial #) had a set value for the feature hole, adjustable thru a plug on the slide out mechanism panel, towards the back, past the mixer unit. Also, the later ones coin entry and shooter housing were a stamped out type, rather than cast.

Exactly right sir! And a very sharp eye! I need to take a look at the inners and figure out if it has the stepper or the fixed advance, it may be a bit hard for me to to tell just poking around in there unless it’s labeled but I am now curious!

Were there any other differences that I could look for to identify what’s up with this.

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#27 10 months ago

There are several other serial numbers you can check on your Turf King. The playfield is stamped along the bottom apron between the 2 and 3 holes in the win section. The main board that slides out the front door has its serial number stamped on the apron's front right, just below the fuse block. I don't believe there is a serial number on the head.

Your game does not have the "Feature Build-Up" reel that Joe mentioned. The feature reel on the "A" games is to the left of the replay reels as you look through the rear door. The backglass would have a silvered picture frame of the same style used around the replay reels. One of my photos shows the feature reel at 6, and that represents dollars. The reel reaches a maximum of 45, the equivalent of 900 nickels, and that was one heck of a payout in 1950 - about $500 in today's dollars. If your game had the feature build-up reel, you would expect to find an "Feature Change-Over" adjustment plug near the transformer that allowed the operator to change between having a feature win add 160 or 320 credits to the replay reels ("Feature Replay") or add nothing to replay reels in lieu of a cash payout at the counter ("Feature Build-Up"). Bally provided separate instruction cards for all three options.

The Feature reel was always present in Grandstand, the coin payout sister game to Turf King. I'm surprised that Bally chose to have this feature in early Turf Kings, and they apparently decided to drop it with the "AB" series. One awkward point with a feature win was that the knockoff switch that resets the feature reel to zero works *only* if the ball is in the feature hole with the feature lit. This, I'm pretty sure, was done to prevent the location owner from cheating the operator, but it makes for goofed up accounting if the knockoff switch isn't used immediately.

Bally Turf King "Feature Change-Over" plugs. It currently is set to "Feature Replay," meaning games won are added to the replay meter. The single-prong plug to the immediate left awards 160 or 320 replays (only works when the feat (resized).jpgDSC09391 (resized).jpgSweet sign of success - 160 replays on the score reels. I had been troubleshooting a wrong-pay problem that occurred only on a 160-winner or 320-winner. I discovered that the switch on the Replay Counter that should open on the 40 (resized).jpg
#28 10 months ago

That’s one beautiful looking backglass when it’s lit up!!

Thanks for sharing the features and pics. I will investigate serial numbers to see if any further information may come to light. I am now conflicted. I really want to at least get lights on to bring it inside... it may be the case that I can match up wires and do this quicker than I had anticipated.

A few people have PM with encouraging suggestions that this process may be easier than it appears. Now officially conflicted- work on this black hole or get back on existing projects! Arghhh

#29 10 months ago

Well.. decided to get it out of the shop. I got the playfield and cabinet interior and exterior cleaned with magic eraser (not interior) and polsihed with Carnuba. It *looks* a fine specimen and much of the kick marks and dirt came off. Too tired to go take pics. But moving it inside now. Probably see ya in my King Pin thread. I want to clear coat that game and get it done. So will post pics of this non functional one in the line up as a art piece for now.

It was about as dirty as any game I have seen. I think I went through about 7 buckets of water and cleaner and two large boxes of magic eraser- it’s notably better in all respects and turns out to be a quiet decent example under all that grime. Even the rear of the cabinet cleaned up to a brightesh yellow with little (some) paint loss.

Pics soon.

#30 10 months ago

All cleaned up.

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#31 10 months ago

Beautiful example! Nice work getting it shiny.

#32 10 months ago

Thank you! It went really well- I did manage to rip a bit of the instruction card but the paper is so brittle it almost crumbles. I have them pressing to flatten and will get an acid free very light paper and back it with an archival glue- it will never be noticed.

Else It’s a survivor. It would appear I have someone willing to part with a set of Jones plugs. If that’s the case I think I will plug away at it slowly- when I have time and it’s too hot in the shop I can pick off a few wires! Time to stock up on some thin shrink wrap for wires!

#33 10 months ago

That's a handsome game you've got. Bally referred to it as their "Jumbo" cabinet style, and you can sure see why. I've posted several shots of the jones plugs for general reference. If you want more detailed shots of individual plugs, or whatever, just give me some guidance on what you need. My Turf King is serial number A2900 and has the extra circuitry to support the Feature Build-Up reel.

Would you post a close-up of the distributor's red tag on the bottom apron?

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1 month later
#34 8 months ago

I will do this, post tag. Sorry for such a delay but like I said, it’s not a project I was looking for and it’s been sitting. Next time I am next to it I will post pic. Thanks for photos!

5 months later
#35 3 months ago

What a great read, thanks for all of the information in this thread! I have a Turf King as well.....for pretty much the same reason. Just couldn't stand the thought of it getting trashed

I know it's been a while since you posted in here, but if there's anything I can do to help on my end (if you get back to it)...just let me know. Pics, parts, whatever.

I haven't done anything with mine yet. All the parts are there and it seems to be in pretty good shape. I certainly won't try to fire it up until I've looked everything over carefully. The down side is the playfield. It's a big mess and seems to have suffered some major weather abuse.

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