If they feel sluggish there might be a problem with the coil sleeve or stop or EOS switch, moving the flipper switches won't change that.
This topic comes up every now and then, usually because these type of flippers have a slightly different feel to them than what people are used to.
There's nothing wrong with them, it's the way they were made. I think they feel fine and fit the era.

Part of the poor feel might be from lash or play in the old parts. Every link, pivot rod etc part between your finger and the actually switch closing will add to the lash. You can probably improve feel by replacing any worn parts or fabricating new.

Following this...what is LASH?

Just replaced plunger/link assembly and coil stop for both flippers on a similar Gottlieb game resulting in very snappy responsive flippers.

I have an 1950’s woodrail that a previous owner replaced the flipper pivot arms with modern style cabinet switches, and it plays f’n sweet… their responsiveness have blown more than a couple minds of guests expecting the classic janky feel of the old arm pivot games.

I contemplated doing it to all my games, but thought better of it after having a wedgehead with perfectly tuned arms that played nearly as responsively. adjusting and tuning the factory arms/mechs is the way to go in order to keep the games original.

If I had a game that no matter how much effort I put in, still wouldn’t tighten up the button/ arm responsiveness, or if they were too mangled/ missing, then I wouldn’t hesitate to throw cabinet switches on.

Aside from a couple screw holes in the cab, it’s reversible if someone else wants to return it to the original arms down the line.

I think of lash (or slop) as being any motion on one end of a linkage not being transferred to the other end of the linkage. I use the analogy of a train that has backed into a rail yard. When the train starts to pull out of the yard the locomotive starts moving but the first car behind it doesn't start moving until the gap in the coupling between them has closed. The 2nd car doesn't start moving until the gap in the first two couplings has closed. The caboose doesn't start moving until all of the gaps between all of the cars have closed. The locomotive has traveled some distance before the caboose moves at all.

The same can happen between the flipper button and the flipper switch described in this topic, or between a plunger and a flipper, pop bumper, stepper arm, etc. that it is meant to activate. Any lash or slop in the joints gets combined and becomes wasted effort that never gets to the intended destination.

The classic example is worn flipper links where the round holes on either end have become oval which allows for some movement between the plunger and the link or the link and the flipper pawl. That effectively reduces the power delivered to the flipper and the arc the flipper travels through.
Worn flipper link (resized).jpg
/Mark

Thank you both for the LASH explanation. Knew what the effect was but the term was new. Thanks.

On the games using the wire link for the flipper buttons, I always use a few tweaks to make them quick and responsive. Of course, you'll want to start with rebuilt flippers (sleeves, links, bushings, etc.). I always lube the flipper button shafts and also the pivot points and spring on the wire linkage assembly. Only a tiny dab of Teflon oil is enough. Then, I carefully reform (bend!) the wire form (be careful, because you can break it off!), so that there's just a very small amount of space between the wire and the flipper switch assembly. Also, make sure that the screws holding the switch blade assembly to the underside of the playfield are tight. You can slightly shift the position of the switch assemblies to help with the gap between them and the link wire, before tightening down the screws.
If you do all this, your flippers should be just as snappy and responsive as the type with the cabinet mounted switch assemblies. I always prefer to stick with the original design, and just try to restore all the components to as-new condition.
Things usually work as they were designed if set up properly.