Manhattan, IL
Quoted from Artago:Do you have to de-solder the coil to test the resistance? Sorry for the dumb question. I'm new to this.
Yes, one side at the least, and remove diode.
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Quoted from Rikoshay:I have found the diode can remain in place to check the resistance.
...put your meter on its lowest resistance setting and either probe on either lug of the coil....
Technically, you could leave the diode in place, HOWEVER, then you should not use either probe on either lug. Polarity matters in this case, so only reading across an "open" diode is accurate... assuming you already know the diode is good in that direction.
However, reading its "closed" resistance in parallel with the coil resistance will lower the combined reading. Rather than figuring out the proper polarity of your DMM probes, just remove the diode to be absolutely sure of a proper and accurate reading of the coil by itself. In that case, you've isolated the diode and can test its functionality too.
EDIT: Reading resistance across two parallel components when you're trying to get the reading of one, is not a good habit to promote. You'll just never know if the secondary component is what you think it should be. Do not make unnecessary assumptions. It's just not worth it when the coil can easily be isolated, and the diode should be tested too. One wire has to be removed anyway, and the diode would already need to be lifted from one side, or removed, in order to test it out as a good diode.
EDIT 2: The forward resistance of a diode in the closed direction could be 1,000 ohms. This diode in parallel with a 3 ohm coil, gives a combined resistance reading of 2.99 ohms. Not a big deal right? What if you read 0 ohms? Is your coil bad or your diode? IMHO, good testing habits should be promoted over shortcuts.
Quoted from Quench:The low DC resistance of these coils makes the diode irrelevant with respect to multi-meter lead polarity in resistance mode.
True. I already edited my comment as such.
2 months later
Quoted from Artago:I replaced the coil with a A-5195 and new sleeve. It made no difference. Not even a little. I guess I'll just have to live with it as is unless someone has a better suggestion.
You've ruled out the solenoid & sleeve. Now you can focus on all the rest of it...
Quoted from Quench:Just curious but have you considered there may be a connector/electronic problem that's causing it to be lethargic?
Is the solenoid getting full voltage? Have you inspected the corresponding fingers and pins in the connectors? Have you tested the transistor that fires the solenoid?
Quoted from Quench:Well which kicker are you talking about?
You never answered this question.
Also, what about the mechanics of the whole assembly? Did you disassemble and clean? Are the pivot holes worn out? Is it gummed up? Does everything align properly? Is anything bent? Does this assembly have a spring, and if so, is it any good?
Maybe post some photos.
Quoted from Artago:I have a Pascal board on it so that should be ok?? It was functioning the same with the old board and the new board as well.
Pascal MPU or Driver board? Or is that an all-in-one?
Quoted from Quench:Well which kicker are you talking about?
And this was asked multiple times now.
Quoted from Artago:I can post photos & videos if that will help.
Please do. Can't hurt.
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