(Topic ID: 313016)

Updated rewiring to get mains V out of start switch

By swampwiz

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by jrpinball
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    #1 4 months ago

    (I had posted a thread about this, but with the wrong rewiring; I think I have it proper now.)

    This is for Gottlieb's Diamond Jack (1967), and it is such that a new game is started when a coin is dropped into the slot - although it has been modified so that the coin return button actuation closes this switch. In any case, this is 120V going to the door, which is far in excess of what I want!

    So I have bought a RIB device that allows for a 24V in (for which I am using the Gottlieb's 25V tap) to control a relay that can control the circuit that actuated the Start Relay. The colors used for the RIB is of the same set as for the stock, which makes this more complicated, but I have used different shades of color & thickness of line (a dashed line means white & color). I have also added the figure from the RIB manufacturer. I have come up with best guess and have included that (I originally had it different than this, and am almost positive that I had blown a fuse when I had first tried it).

    EDIT: On the latest schematic, I have severed & shunted the 120V line going to through the Hold (R) & Start (S) relays on the 120V side so provide current to the transformer all the time while also keeping the stuff on the 120V side still controled by the R & S relay. (I might have to do something similar with the features lights). (I can get a double RIB device to handle this.) I have also severed & added in R' & S' relay switches to the 25V (i.e., after the shunt to the coin chute button), which essentially controls everything on the 25V side as it had for the 120V side. I might have to some this to the 6V side for the lamps, but I think the new behavior of having the light work upon power-up will probably be better.

    #2 4 months ago

    I don't understand what you are trying to accomplish here. Why this modification?

    #3 4 months ago
    Quoted from JethroP:

    Why this modification?

    Quoted from swampwiz:

    120V going to the door, which is far in excess of what I want!

    Given the OP’s quoted statement it appears they would like to reduce the voltage at the coin door.

    #4 4 months ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    Given the OP’s quoted statement it appears they would like to reduce the voltage at the coin door.

    High-Score response!

    #5 4 months ago

    I have a couple of games with the 120v doors. I was concerned about that voltage but took a much simpler approach,

    I added a plastic insulating strip on top of the fishpaper to double insulate it. I mounted small piece of plastic between the leaf switch and the back side of the door and I 3d printed a new plastic button to replace the metal one.

    So there is no way for the switch, the wires or the solder tabs to touch anything metal on the coin door. It still has 120 volts at the door but I'm not worried about it shorting to the door and causing a shock.

    #6 4 months ago

    Why not just ground the door and/or use GFCI outlet?

    #7 4 months ago
    Quoted from JethroP:

    Why not just ground the door and/or use GFCI outlet?

    I added the plastic insulation because the fishpaper was worn almost all the way through on the end. You could see light through it. That fishpaper was the only thing between the button and 120 volts. While I had it apart I used the same plastic to isolate the entire switch from the metal door.

    Once that fishpaper wore through, a GFCI might protect you from a shock but you can't play a game that trips a GFCI every time you start it.

    #8 4 months ago

    I put a piece cut-down post sleeve onto the inside end of my replay button on GTB machines. Just allow say an eigth of an inch or so protrusion and it works fine. Of course, I'd replace the fish paper as well should be in any way worn and I also run an earth lead on the door and lock down bar frame too.

    1 week later
    #9 3 months ago
    Quoted from JethroP:

    Why not just ground the door and/or use GFCI outlet?

    And don't ever play with bare feet!

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