(I had posted a thread about this, but with the wrong rewiring; I think I have it proper now.)
This is for Gottlieb's Diamond Jack (1967), and it is such that a new game is started when a coin is dropped into the slot - although it has been modified so that the coin return button actuation closes this switch. In any case, this is 120V going to the door, which is far in excess of what I want!
So I have bought a RIB device that allows for a 24V in (for which I am using the Gottlieb's 25V tap) to control a relay that can control the circuit that actuated the Start Relay. The colors used for the RIB is of the same set as for the stock, which makes this more complicated, but I have used different shades of color & thickness of line (a dashed line means white & color). I have also added the figure from the RIB manufacturer. I have come up with best guess and have included that (I originally had it different than this, and am almost positive that I had blown a fuse when I had first tried it).
EDIT: On the latest schematic, I have severed & shunted the 120V line going to through the Hold (R) & Start (S) relays on the 120V side so provide current to the transformer all the time while also keeping the stuff on the 120V side still controled by the R & S relay. (I might have to do something similar with the features lights). (I can get a double RIB device to handle this.) I have also severed & added in R' & S' relay switches to the 25V (i.e., after the shunt to the coin chute button), which essentially controls everything on the 25V side as it had for the 120V side. I might have to some this to the 6V side for the lamps, but I think the new behavior of having the light work upon power-up will probably be better.