Has anyone got this installed in a System 11 machine? I just want to make sure all the connections etc work before I order. Thank you.

EDIT: Also, How would one use this on an EM, is it possible to check the states of lights? I'm sure switches would be easy.

One thing to keep in mind is that the serial write uses a lot of resources and slows down your loop considerably. Keep it lean.

Guys, this is an interesting thread and I'd like to mention some stuff that we did on the PIG 2 that would help here. But I didn't want it to look like I was trying to hijack the thread trying to promote my own project. Any objections?

Hi DK -- huge fan of your work. I have no objections to your comments, especially when the PIG2 complements what we've done with the pinduino.

It should work fine with a system 11. I checked the circuit and the flashers work the same way (grounding through a transistor to trigger a flasher). You'll need to use an appropriate plug for the flasher header, though the 10-pins we provide can often fit larger/smaller plugs providing there is board clearance. Also, the power plug will need to be modified to connect to appropriate sources.

EDIT: EM's, I'm not sure. I don't know them well enough to make any comments. Perhaps someone else knows?

Agreed with Eric. Do it to it.

-Wes

It requires a little mental gymnastics at first but once you get used to the logic it comes easier. ChadH did the coding on the PIG 2 so he can answer more specific questions but I think I can relay some of the concepts.

Everything being processed is serial, one step at a time. Everything is based on a loop and it's the speed of the processor that give the illusion of several things happening at the same time.

Do Loop
Does Input 1 = High?
Yes
Set Output 1 High
No
Set Output 1 Low

Does Input 2 = High?
Yes
Set Output 2 High
No
Set Output 2 Low
Loop

Everything starts here. If there is a button on each input pin and an LED on each output pin. It would seem like the chip is doing two things at once. If you have one button pressed, one led is on, if you have them both pressed, it has both on. But you can see here, they are happening serially. It's that the chip is handling these operations in thousandths of a second. You can't see it happening.

To get more pinball functions, you need to keep track of a lot of stuff, like what is the clock time right now? What is the state of all of the inputs right now -- is that different than they were the last time I checked?

Lets say you want to make an LED blink, 1 second on and 1 second off while you're holding down the button connected to Input 1. (I'm assuming the button is a 5v source, on and off)

Boolean Input1State = False
Int Output1BlinkTime = 0

Do Loop
Does Input 1 = High?
Is Input1Sate = False?
Yes
Set Input1State = True
Output1BlinkTime = Millis()
No
If Millis() - Output1Blinktime () > 2000
Set Output1Blinktime = Millis()

If Millis() - Output1BlinkTime < 1000
Set Output 1 High
Else
Set Output 1 Low
Else
Does Input1State = True?
Set Input1State = False
Set Output1 Low
Loop

That's Pseudo Code so don't plug that into the IDE. And I apologize if there are bugs in that thinking I'm just streaming this out of my head.

The idea here is that you have to keep track of the timer, the state of the input, and what the state of the input was before in order to get the "Blink while I'm pressing the button" effect. You could add extra LED's and Buttons by recycling the above code and adding "Input2State", etc. You'd get two LEDS blinking at the same rate, but at different times based on when you pressed which button.

For more inputs and outputs, you can't put logic in like, "While I'm pressing the button" because then it will loop on that single output and ignore all the rest.

You may be thinking, "Holy crap, that's a lot to keep track of!" The more complex it gets, you start needing more powerful processors - or better code.

You can change how it performs based on how you structure the decision tree. The idea is to try to eliminate as many decisions as is practical. Also, say it takes 1/50th of a second to do a Serial.Write. If you do a single one, it's hard to notice. If you do 10 of them, suddenly you've got a .2 second pause which doesn't seem like much, but is an ETERNITY! You can demonstrate this by playing with the "BLINK" example in the arduino IDE.

A 1 second ON and 1 Second OFF blink is REALLY slow. You begin to realize that in pinball time, lamps go on and off several times a second when they are blinking. If you hold something up with a serial.write it becomes really noticeable.

OK, sorry, chew on that and we can build from there.

Ugh, sorry, Pinside stripped out all of my formatting. I hope you can make sense of the pseudo code.

Nerd Talk Begin.

DK, thanks for that explanation. To give you some background, the Pinduino input side functionality is basically set up like you mention, we check the states of the inputs, and the update an array with those states. Then, later on, we do something based on the values in that array. This lets us control RGBS easily. The interesting bit comes in dealing with an addressable LED, where you are basically giving control over to a library that then takes a VERY random amount of time to update the light strip with whatever effect you are trying to achieve. This delays the loop, if you are addressing 50 LEDs that takes a LOT longer than updating, say, 2. That makes things WAY less deterministic/consistent. That, overall, is NO BIG DEAL as long as you are A-OK dealing with everything serially (i.e. Update RGB1, Update RGB2, show light strip effect 1, show light strip effect 2).

However, if you try to do things in parallel (i.e. Show light strip effect 1 AND 2), then you start dealing with some neat timing issues you can't easily take care of due to the way the neopixel library works. NOTE: I said "easily". It's not impossible. I have some ideas on how to pull this off effectively, but it's going to take a little more time for us to develop that in a way that is easily USEABLE by the community without hacking away on our libraries. The good news is on a MEGA2560 platform you get 16Mhz to deal with, which should allow us to do fast, unique LEDstrip effects on 2 strips at the same time. But, even now, you can kind of fake it treating everything serially, OR by duplicating the effect to both strips.

-Wes

I'll go back and look up the RGB strips you're using again, but do they give any kind of an ACK when you pump bits down the line? I thought that they were kind of just fire the bit stream down the pipe and then come back around again on the next loop?

On another note, having to do with timing, we have a status LED that we turn off at the top of the loop, then back on at the bottom of the loop. If the LED goes off but there is still power, we'd know that the code was stuck somewhere in the middle. It was interesting to put an o-scope on that pin and then watch the pulses get further apart with each additional input being triggered. You could see each loop take longer between pulses. It was just kind of cool to see and measure.

I imagine the more addressable LED's you add, the longer the bitstream between loops and the further the pulses would spread.

There's no ACK. NeoPixel basically just lets you set pixel colors:
strip->setPixelColor(position,R,G,B);

But in order to do fancy effects (like crawl effects or bands that move), you spend a lot of time in loops updating the pixel values. If you have 4 pixels you are tracking, no big deal, if it's 138, that's a different story... NOTE: "Lot" of time is relative to clock cycles here, not necessarily talking about even milliseconds of time. That's time where literally nothing else can happen, and you are doing it in EVERY LOOP execution. I'm sure there's cool ways to optimize that with arrays or pointers or something, but I'm far too lazy to deal with that, since there's no real need to do that right now. Maybe lyonsden in his copious free time can get on that!

The status LED is a great idea. So is an oscope. I still haven't graduated into owning my own oscope, however, it's next on the list. So much guesswork and troubleshooting code can be eliminated with an oscope.

-Wes

I couldn't do development like this or on Spaceballs without a scope and logic analyzer.

Which Logic Analyzer do you use? I've been looking to ebay to pick up an older oscope, but may just end up getting the cheapo rigol if I can't find anything on ebay. For logic analyzers, I figure I'll just go with a PC USB based one, but the prices and quality seems to vary WILDLY.

-Wes

Check out eevblog.com, I'm pretty sure he's got some videos on logic analyzers. I've got an older Tektronix scope and a Rigol 100MHz. 90% of the time the Rigol will get the job done. Eevblog also has a review on the Rigol scope.

Hahaha. Brilliant! Before posting this I did JUST THAT. Admittedly, eevblog has like 1000 videos, and the forums over there are pretty good. The Rigol would be the purchase I would make TODAY if I didn't want to find a DEAL on CL or ebay.

-Wes

Nothing wrong with a good used Tektronix. I just wanted some of the digital capabilities that the Rigol offers, and since it's footprint is smaller (and it's much lighter) I tend to keep it on the bench.

I started with an old scope off eBay. Something that came out of a school. I think it was $60. After a couple of years I bought the Rigol and I'm really happy with it.

Bump for a great mod.

All of my games are in storage except for two, which are torn apart for cabinet work and decals (delayed due to health issues). I'm looking for another game at the moment so I have something to put my Pinduino on (not so subtle hint: any JD's in socal for sale let me know). So that's my excuse, but would like to see what others are doing to tide me over.

This mod on Tron and Iron Man are awesome. They brighten up a game so nicely without being blinding. Shooting ramps on IM is like blasting through the air. I like the effect these give on Tron better than the LE style neon tube thing. Sorry, don't remember what it's officially called.

With these getting out I can't wait to see what other games looks like. I'm also looking forward to TOM with the new tease video.

This is interesting... Much better than what I did on my TOTAN, which involved programming LEDs on PWM pins to have a little "lightshow" of pulsing LEDs that also go on and off to illuminate the back of the playfield and the BAZAAR scoop. Well done!

I've been cleaning up my Pinduino install for my Starship Troopers mod and had to make a few components to get the install to a level I was happy with.

Instead of the default connectors, I made these little boards. The basic concept for them is to give you a secure way to tap into solenoid/lamp/switch circuits without compromising the stability of the original system. It's probably been done before, but this was my pass at it.

So, here is the first version that I'm testing out. I'll eventually release the boards and everything for anyone else who wants to make some for themselves or any company that wants to sell them. I wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts/feedback before I did that though, so I didn't have to worry about separate versions floating around.

This could be used for more than the Pinduino, it could really be used for any application where you would want to tap into the lines.

tl:dr, I hate IDC connectors + ribbon cable + Z-connectors, so I made something different.

Let me know what you think.

pintap10_topside.jpg

pintap10_sideview.jpg

pintap10_backside.jpg

pintap10_installed.jpg

Looks like a solid design to me, and thanks in advance for sharing.

On a semi-side note, what's happened to our Pinduino guys?

Haha, yeah, we are here. Zapcon sapped *my* energy, and my wife's tolerance, then the Goonies pin arrived and I've been tied up playing with that, which reminds me, I have some posts to do over there...

Hey Wolfmarsh, you rock.. This is awesome, and dead simple to have printed and assemble. I hate IDCs as well, and the wiring harness was always a spot that could use improvement in our design. We kicked around ideas like this but at the end of the day we decided to get product out even though it wasn't 100% PERFECT. Another bonus to open source design! Other people can improve it!

Oh, and I COMPLETELY agree with lyonsden, time to move to fully assembled PCBs for the next project. I've done enough soldering for the year, and desoldering for that matter.......

-Wes

You guys are more than welcome to the boards, etc... It's not like it was very complicated. I'll post everything later tonight when I get home. I'm not interested in selling them, but you guy are more than welcome to do so.

The main design point I was concerned with is the 10 pin .100 header (the smaller one). I couldn't decide if I would rather have it in the 10 pin, 1 row config or a 2x5 config for a standard IDC ribbon cable connector. I ended up picking 1x10 just because it matches what's on the pinduino board.

I also modeled and 3D printed a mounting bracket for the Pinduino. I didn't like using double sided tape to secure it. I'll post all the info/pics for that as well. I'm at work right now and don't have the files handy.

Thanks! We spend a long time thinking about how to get a 2x5 to work on the Pinduino because it would make building harnesses SO much easier. Your adapter board would make that possible.

Also, Marc just sent an email asking that the next version be compatible with using stackable shield. Doh! Design flaw. If you use a stackable shield, the plugs for J6 and J7 are blocked. I'll try to double stack some headers to see if I can get enough clearance for a shield. The photo is of the SwitchShield, which I've been wanting to get some time to play with so I can get switch sensing integrated in a pin (e.g., unique effect when a ramp entrance switch is triggered.

photo.JPG

That's great news. Put me on the list.

I also need some additional led strips, so if you'll have this done in the near future I'll just wait and order all at once. I'm looking at a mustang so hopefully something soon to implement this on rather than just playing with it on the bench.

This is a sweet project big thanks to everyone that has helped!! How close do you think you are to having a solid design that is streamlined for production?

I sure would love to try and have something like this on my AFM.

When you guys get ready, I'll do another adapter board with 2x5. Just let me know. Feel free to steal the idea and make your own too. It wasn't any big leap or amazing design or anything.

As promised, here are the instructions to order boards like the ones I made in my pics above.

You need to order boards from OSHPark, link is here:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/lRDz065V

You should get 3 boards for around $11.50.

The three components you need per board can be bought at Digi-Key.

To populate all 3 boards you will get from OSHPark, you need 3 of each of the connectors. I've set up a link at Digi-Key that will automatically build the shopping cart out for you with the proper components to populate 3 boards. Adjust as you see fit.

http://www.digikey.com/short/7n3fmq

The total from Digi-Key (excluding shipping and tax) should be $12.24 per 3 board set. If you total that up with the OSHPark order, each board is around $8 a piece in a quantity of 3.

There is no particular instructions for assembling them. They are plated on both sides of the board, so you can install the connectors in whatever orientation and position works best for you.

Here are the wires I used to connect between the Pintap and the Pinduino:

http://www.amazon.com/Female-Solderless-Flexible-Breadboard-Jumper/dp/B00D7SCMZ8/ref=lh_ni_t

If anyone wants the actual board file, I've shared it on google drive:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwF5bPpteXJCQzdsVUNTNkMtTnc/view?usp=sharing

Let me know if you have any questions, or need a different style board with a 2x5 header.

The SwitchShield is made by BigLebowski: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/always-wanted-to-build-your-own-pinball-lightmod

I still haven't had a chance to play with it.

We have a few Pinduino kits left. DIY is $40 + $5 shipping. PM prof_pinball for all the details. Instructions for everything: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2njOnd06CCOUmdKc1pKZGE1VkU/0B2njOnd06CCOdlBCVzdiWFZhUVE

So far, everyone who has ordered a DIY kit has had no problem putting it together and get it working. You will need to supply an Arduino Mega, and we have instructions on how to get started with that too(Though it is an open source project with EXCELLENT tutorials).

You are the man! Thanks for open sourcing your files and the detailed instructions on how to make the PinTap.

Will do thanks for the info.

Will Pindrino work with the LED OCD mod installed? I already have that in AFM and would be hard pressed to take it out as I love it.

But you´ve assembled it very nicely
Bummer that it interferes with your connectors on the board! Can I do something about the layout of the SwitchShield? Although I´d hate to throw away the 50 boards I have here.....

I don't have that mod, but the Pinduino should be not interfere with it. To install the Pinduino, you need to run power and plug into J6/J7 (which I've piggybacked with other mods that tap into those circuits.)

Nothing you can do with the SwitchSheild -- the problem is with the layout of the Pinduino. I'm sure there is a way to mount the two together using stackable headers. Copperpot suggested having the SwitchSheild under the Pinduino, then using header extensions for the remaining pins of the Pinduino to reach the Arduino. I'll have some time to work on this over the weekend.

you´re right, I looked at the layout of the Pinduino again and I couldn´t possibly change the SwitchShield in a way that would free up your J6/J7 headers.

I was lucky when I designed my PinLightShield stackable from the very beginning without even having the SwitchShield in mind by then. When the request for switch detection came up from some users it was easy to put that on top of the PinLightShield.

Here is another little thing I put together, a mounting bracket for the Pinduino. Right now the J7 connector is blocked, but I'll move the zip tie when I go to hook it up. In hindsight I probably could have made the bracket as long as the pinduino and have it clip in, but this will do for now.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:817757

pinduino_bracket.jpg

pinduino_bracket_installed.jpg

Excellent work! Do you have a 3D printer? Would you be willing to trade a couple of these for another Pinduino kit?

I do have a 3D printer.

I'd be willing to just send you and copperpot a few. PM me with what you want and an address. No need to trade a Pinduino for it.

Full disclaimer though, as I said in my original post it's not perfect. The zip tie is required to hold it in, which I wish I hadn't done. I should have made it more of a tray that the board clicks into.

I'm in the process of acquiring a 3d printer. Partially related to pinball, but really planning on using it for another project outside of this hobby. Just got to finalize on which one. So many choices, analysis paralysis ensues.

Anyway, that's beside the point. One thing I've discovered is we should have drilled holes to access the normal mounting holes on the Arduino Mega. Add another feature for the next rev of Pinduino!

-Wes

Curious if you guys have thought about using smaller form factor but arduino compatible boards. The Teensy would be a great candidate, tiny, arduino compatible, plenty of pinouts (should be) and cheaper than Mega (plus more powerful). Can get the OSHPARK version for $17. A thought for you.

Yes -- we did some work with the smaller form factor Arduino for the first generation IronMan LED strips (using AdaFruit Trinket), but it had limited memory. The Tiny (esp. v3.1: https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/teensy31.html) looks pretty awesome -- thanks for posting that (and I'll have to order one). If you already have one, can you see if the Pinduino library installs on it without any problem?

I have a teensy 3.0 so I can test that, the 3.1 is a bit more powerful I think. As far as libraries go, I am not sure how I'd see if the library worked. Teensyduino runs many arduino libraries and the compatibility is high so theoretically it should work and the teensy is a great little platform with lots of support and projects.

It *should* be straight forward given that Teensy can use the Arduino IDE. Here are our instructions for installing the pinduino library: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Xk9QtnBrs58lnKNAFGCy8bAlQ9cdEmo1Trk4WAJEpYM/edit?usp=drive_web

Mostly, just install the library and write a sketch that includes it. Hopefully, it will just work. If it doesn't, post the errors and I'll see if I can debug it.

I've got a Teensy 3.1 so I'll try to build with the library tonight, but I've never had any trouble compiling any Arduino code on it. In my experience the Teensy guys actually do a better job with their code than the main Arduino branch.

Any news on the plug & play kits?

Thanks!
- Mark

I think I figured out something really awesome today. I ordered this "string" of addressable LEDs:
ebay.com link: 50PCS WS2811 RGB Full Color 12mm Pixels digital Addressable LED String DC 5V FA

They work with the pinduino without any problem:

And the best part, they fit snuggly into playfield GI holes. I think having some incredible GI lighting effects are on the way!

I'm going to keep working on this today and see what I can do. Suggestions are welcome!

photo 3.JPG

photo 2.JPG

photo.JPG