Same here. I think the easy fix is to Mount a Hex Spacer on top the plastic with the original screw. Mentioned someone before.

Just replaced them on my AiQ. Were really bad. It's not so easy, because they are soldered and nailed/hammered (don't know the word) in the playfield. I think it's the same on IMdn. Replaced them with thin ones that have to be screwed in the playfield. Working now, but wasn't easy.

Try to bent the sockets from above slightly together first to make better contact. Worked for me on my IMdn and was very, very much easier this way. If the sockets are bad, much more to do...

I would miss the physical lock, the second captive ball, the underworld, and even the cipwm mode. The pro is a very good choice and pin anyway. I would not decide based on ranking. Pro ranking is more from players on location, prem/le more from home use players I think. For example: I think AiQ pro is a very good choice and has a greater gap to prem/le ranking. But the pin is not ranked as good from location players because of very confusing / complex rules... Just my opinion

No, that's not what I meant. Just check and trust your own opinion more than the ratings. Ratings will be different if players rate based on location or home play.

My opinion on these pins: IMdn Prem/le, wd pro, turtles I'm not sure..., metallica pro, deadpool pro, JP prem/le (even I own a pro and I'm very happy with it, but JP is so good, I think you enjoy all features even they are not really needed-just like ImDn).

I think Elwin said he plays 7 degrees, but plays fine with 6.5 as well.

Go through lock test in menu. So you can check the difference between ball locked only or ball locked and ready for Mummy Multiball. Sounds like a switch is not triggering the right moment or not triggering at all.

The Hex-metal-part came loose and now pushes the switch down permanently.

After adjusting again and again it works now since a long time for me. It's more 95% success, not really 100%. Keep in mind that a hot coil behaves different than a cold one. I changed the auto Plunger coil to a stronger one as well. If you do, you can do better adjustment in the menu (original coil needs full power - no chance to adjust more power. The stronger coil will need power down in the menu). It's better for gameplay that the ball hits the upper flipper than the post if it fails. It should never hit the lower post.

If you don't want to wax again and again, try to adjust with "natural" dirt and rubber on the playfield. It will keep working for a long time like that without doing anything. And no, my playfield is not very dirty, I just clean it a little from Time to time without wax.

I think it's the only one real design issue in such a great game. Get used to press left flipper button for ball launch and have fun

There is a ball trap fix kit and loop register kit. I think Mezel Mods sells that in the US.

1) The ball gets stuck on the corner in the underworld. Try to bent the metal parts carefully. Worked for me, no issues any more.

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/07xGOdo9scD

If someone wants to print... You have to push a little and it will snap in. Petg holds up quite well. Print in high quality because it's just a very small part. Don't overtighten.

Looks like this...

IMG_20210226_173646 (resized).jpg

These are good on pins that drop the balls directly on the switch. I think you don't need them on IMdn, balls drop above the switch on the mylar. I would recommend shooter lane and outhole Cliffy on that pin.

I would take the pro now. It's a very good game. Yes, the premium / le is the complete package (I own a LE). The ball lock, underworld ramp etc... But, as most pro machines, it's (nearly) the same fun. If you miss anything, you can sell the pro and get a premium later.

Had that problem on my AiQ, NIB as well. Was faulty sockets. Ended up changing all sockets and never had a problem again. It's really a pain to repair because the sockets are just hammered in the wood from downside and the insulate paper over that as well, all under the flipper ground plate, which you have to remove first. Hard to repair design on that part. Decided to solder in new sockets and changed to the flat screw-in ones, so I can change them easier if they don't work again. If you have long time success with some solder from the top, it's definitely the easier way... But anyway: parts are cheap, so could be worse

That's the right idea. Just try to bend a little, check if the switch moves free. Make sure to mount the whole part steep enough. Maybe a washer could help. The ball should never stuck on this switch and press it down with it's own weight. Your pin should be level left/right as well, just double check.