Quoted from jlaham24:

So I have a question for everyone who has tuned their machines - did any of you mess with the flippers by lowering or raising them to help with shooting the ball up the ramps ? Some days I can nail them np then others days I’m brick city

Quoted from rai:

Not true about secret skill shot, got them without pushing left flipper.
I’ll test it out for sure but don’t think you need to use left flipper to call it.

Quoted from mjruser:

jfink8222 Grats on the new machine, we love it and still are learning how to get points on the board in a regular manner.
My question of the day is specifically what modes can be stacked. I think it was fear of the dark I just stacked with trooper multi-ball that got me the fear of the dark champion.
Does anyone have a list of recommended stacks on IM?
Thanks!
Mike

Quoted from PinMonk:

Before anyone pays that, check with Borygard here. He's been able to fix some node board problems.

Quoted from Diospinball:

Guys. My machine is playing great but with one issue and its really cheesing me off.
So lately when I go to start my mummy mb. I hit the newton ball it pops the ball out into play. But, it won't trigger the start of multiball.
So then I hit it again. This time it reads that no ball is in the sarcophagus lock and so it launches a new ball into play.
Then when I drain out of mummy mb. Even if I have 2 balls left in play still, mb ends. Once the 2nd ball drains it registers as end of ball, even though I still have one ball left in play.
What really stinks though is. Any other multiball gets messed up. So if I start trooper afterwards. It'll kick an extra ball into play. Or aces high or rime.
The only good thing is. Once I drain out of MB for this mode. I'll still have 2 balls in play. But, now when the last ball drains. My ball doesn't end. It'll let me finish the other ball that's still in play.
Its a really weird glitch and it has killed some really good balls of mine. I'd like to fix it. The newton ball actually registers pretty dang well right now. So I don't think its an issue with it not reading me hitting that.
I'd like to fix this as this is my only outstanding issue on this pin and it get it back up to like 99%.

Quoted from DugFreez:

7 static colors, 351 various flash, fade and chase light patterns. Adjustable brightness. Adjustable speed on the light transition patterns. Auto switching functionality through the entire list of 358 light / light transition patterns or to auto scroll through your favorite 8 patterns that you can select and save to your custom DIY list.........and selecting just plain red is an option also.
The lower cost 5.25" speaker plates that I am selling make this type of Speaker Light Kit / speaker upgrade (speakers sold separately...and not sold by me) in a Pro or Premium game a much more affordable option than it was previously.
Doug - (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Quoted from thewool:

So an Iron Madien Premium has 4" speakers as standard, is that correct?
Cheers.

Quoted from red-line:

later he says that maiden plays too easy, the balltimes were too long, so he squeezed JP. That's gotta be the first person I've heard say IM balltimes are too long.

Quoted from Eskaybee:

My first flip with the left flipper is typically always going for sweeping the drops to light locks. Then, depending on what mode is lit - I’ll lock 2 balls, start a mode, start trooper.
On the flip side, as i setup a mode + mb stack; I start getting mummy mb ready As well. Fear of the Dark has good synergy with mummy, So sometimes I’ll push for a mummy mb before troooper mb depending on what mode is ready.

Quoted from Fytr:

From my recollection when I had to replace the cruddy switches on my LE soon after taking possession of it there are only two switches on the mummy lock, one at the front and one at the back. So no way to detect a second ball stored behind the first one unless they could "derive" it from it passing over the back switch. Seems like an unlikely change a this point though.

Quoted from Gogdog:

That looks great. I assume it was from this guide? ->
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bksor-flaming-speaker-mod-diy
Did you have any trouble with the mod?

Quoted from ahdelarge:

I got my Iron Maiden Pro towards the end of last year and it had originally been sited on location in a bar for a year or so. Have just received some protectors and mods and have started doing a complete tear down. Would like to clean it before I put all the new parts on.
Have just got to the ramps. Does anyone have some tips on removing these or advice? The ramp entrance flaps seem to be stuck to the playfield. I don't want to do something I shouldn't.
Thanks!
Adam.

Quoted from Chetrico:

I haven't played my IM for awhile and today noticed the secret skill shot isn't working. The in and outlane switches work and secret skillshot setting is set to yes. Any ideas of what could be going on?

Quoted from RA77:

Do you have coil # please ?

Quoted from pinballcorpse:

New Iron Maiden LE owner here and first time owning a game with these NODE Boards.
I thought I'd share/archive some technical information in case someone runs into a similar problem. In the end the answers were simple as many issues are, but finding the simple answer is the challenge particularly not knowing the system. (It is also nice to have a friend who owns the game to compare-Thanks Dave!)
So here is the story:
Upon powering the game up:
Locating Node Boards/10 NODE not found.
Check Diagnostics: Technician Alert (1/1): Check NODE Board 10 Not Responding. (This was the only Technician Alert)
For those who might not know, or are receiving the error message, NODE Board 10 on Iron Maiden LE is the board that activates the Intelligent Dome in the upper right section of the game. (Technically it is Board 10a, but it is still NODE Board 10)
My immediate thought after reading Pinside and about these newer games was that I probably need a new NODE 10 Board. But I poked around for a bit and consulted with my friend who owns an LE also to see if there was something simple.
In comparing, diagnosing and documenting what was happening, and not happening there were 3 things discovered that were amiss:
1) The DIP Switches on NODE Board 10 were not in the correct orientation. On NODE Board 10 they are supposed to be oriented in OFF-ON-OFF-OFF in positions 1-2-3-4. They were not. (This is shown in the manual and a printed to card that comes with the game)
(I was hoping this basic idea was it, but it did not solve the problem. However, the DIP switches need to be correct for the boards to communicate)
2) The data cables connecting the main board and NODE Boards 8, 9 and 10 did not match the cable diagram with the game.
(I reconfigured the cables to match the diagram, but that did not solve the problem. Everything else worked on the game, so this was not critical it seemed, but I figured it should match the diagram anyway).
3) The LED lights on NODE Board 10 were not always lighting up when the game powered on. Sometimes yes, sometimes no. This implied NODE Board 10 was not getting continuous power. (I could only see these lights with the playfield raised)
After reseating the power connector on NODE Board 10 (just below the left red LED indicator on that board) and reseating the connectors at the backbox, the lights at NODE Board 10 would again sometimes come on again and then go back off. This lead to looking at the power connectors more carefully.
At the backbox everything seemed ok and tight. A power check with a DMM confirmed 0v at NODE Board 10 and 48V at CN5 (Playfield Power Connector). (And of course the LEDs on NODE Board 10 are again OFF, which confirms the power is 0V there) . The connector seemed tight at NODE Board 10.
After unplugging the connector at CN5 and using a DMM checking for continuity, the ground was OK from the connector to the NODE Board 10, but the circuit along the grey wire connecting CN5 to NODE Board 10 was not continuous. After checking the pins and plugs, it turned out the molex plug connector located on the cabinet floor had a loose pin (i.e., a grey wire and pin were loose and backed out-this was the wire that went to NODE Board 10). So it was not fully seated and therefore not making contact. What was probably happening is when I reseated the connectors I jostled the cable just enough so that the pin at the intermediate connector would make intermittent contact and then the contact was broken when I lowered the playfield and the cable moved.
Once that pin was fully seated, the LEDs on NODE Board 10, came on, there was no technician alert and the Intelligent Dome lit up.
For the TLDR crowd, if a NODE Board is not responding, check to see if it is getting power (look at the LEDs), check that the connectors are tight, check that the DIP switches are set correctly and the data cables are correct.
Hopefully this helps someone down the road.
Up the Irons!

Quoted from BubbaPin:

Hehe, so without even thinking I bought both the half annubis mod that goes on the back right and the obelisk dome cover mod. Me knowing that they go in the same place but didn't even think about it. Trying them both out. But eventually I imagine ones gonna have to go. Think before you start buying alot of mods for different games at TPF is the moral

Quoted from Da-Shaker:

It’s nice when you can start with level floors.

Quoted from gandamack:

To the folks who own a Premium: have you had any issue with node board which controls the ramp?