Joined the club last night...
Got my game set up last night. Quality out of the box was perfect, not a single adjustment needed, playfield clear seems pretty thick. Very very happy to see the service rails back as well as a handle in the back to help lower the play field. Stern does listen!
artwork is fantastic.
As for game play, it’s a home run. It has a feel like Metallica, but seems like there is a lot more going on in the game, doesn’t feel linear at all, but have to admit I don’t really know what im doing on it yet. The ramps seem secondary and I like the shot through the pops. Lots of targets to hit. The upper right flipper shot feels like tron or ST, the shot shot up the middle is going to take a beating, wonder how the backboard target is going to hold up. Love the woman’s voice directing shots, reminds me of TNA.
I’m not a fan of the band, but I can definitely see the music growing on me. I wasn’t a fan of Metallica either, but like them now too (at least the songs in the game). Hooked to an external sub, sounds great.
This is going to sell very well, finallly getting away from the cookie cutter layouts.
Quoted from chuckcasey:
Yes, that's the goal on an auto plunge.
And to get the SUPER SKILL shot you need to hold the left flipper up (which disables the normal skill shot)
Some have been increasing plunger spring to RED or ORANGE to help pinpoint SUPER SKILL.
Has everyone seen the "Backstage Pass" guide from Stern: http://sternpinball.com/upload/games/iron-maiden/pro/IM%20Backstage%20Pass%20Rules.pdf
What do you hit for the super skill shot?
Edit: nevermind, I see it in the backstage rules.
Quoted from chuckcasey:
Removed the pharaoh plastic, cut out a piece of red cadrstock to match the shape, cut out some eyes and the results are great. Removed the bleed over from the target light and lit the eyes. What do you think?
Looks good. I lined the back of the plastic with black duct tape to prevent bleed through.
Did you actually cut holes in the plastic for the eyes? No need to do that if you did.
Quoted from gliebig:
For the super skill shot, when you hold the left flipper, is the top lane post supposed to pop up to stop the ball? Sometimes my launch continues all the way around and sometimes it drops back to the little flipper. Didn't know if its just a momentum thing or that post is supposed to stop it and send it back.
It's momentum. You have to plunge soft enough so that it drops to the upper left.flipper. really a challenging skill shot.
What happened to the coin door ball save adjustment? I can’t find it in the settings. Is it no longer a feature for spike games?
Quoted from stevevt:
No interlock switch on Spike games. Flipper power remains on when you open the coin door.
Not liking that.
Quoted from Fezmid:
What's the coin door ball save?
Coin door ball save allows you to open the coin door, remove the glass, free a stuck ball, allow it to drain, close the coin door and it gives you back the ball. It’s a great feature, or at least it was.
Quoted from stevevt:
What's wrong with this?
open the coin door, remove the glass, free a stuck ball, put it on a flipper being held up (or in the shooter lane), replace glass, close the coin door
If you put it in the shooter lane, it will fire it since there is no interlock.
How can you put the glass on and hold a flipper button at the same time.
Quoted from TimeBandit:
Sorry, they're not $2, they're 50 cents.
Are the spots controlled or always on? Modes like fear of the dark wouldn’t be as good with the spots on.
Had my best game yet, 220 mil cyborg multiball, 200 mil trooper mb, was hitting all the shots and with 3x multiplier going. Didn't make it to 2mtm, but was close, I think just a shot away. Game is all factory settings.
Quoted from Graysonsdad:
I actually tried to cancel the mezel ones before they shipped as I had already seen vic's a few days later.
They both arrived today.
Vics goes on my machine (I dont get mine until Tuesday)
Mezel goes in my spare parts bin I guess.
Between my Metallica and my Iron Maiden, mezel sure has sent me some garbage. Most of my Metallica order had to be replaced or couldn't be replaced (looking at you 3d snake that doesnt fit properly. Thanks again mezel. I'm out.
Before the pitchforks come out, did you contact mezel and let them know you werent happy? They are great people and take care of their customers. They take feedback seriously and work hard to make things right. We sell mods through them and do the same. It's fine if you dont like a mod, but I'd suggest contacting them and at least allow them a chance to make things right before being critical.
Quoted from Delta9:
Imo i think it blocks the spinner // relocation is needed plus change the blue light to red
I actually like the location, from the players perspective, there’s no blocking. Pic was taken down closer to the pf. I thought the blue color would be a bit of a change. I’m pretty happy with the look and contrast, to each his own. It’s easily moved and color can be changed, appreciate the feedback.
Quoted from pindude80:
I just picked up a used IMDN premium over the weekend and am loving it so far. I want to add a shaker to it. I was thinking of getting one from Pinball Life or Stern depending on their price. I checked Stern's site but couldn't find them. Does anyone know how much the Stern shaker motor is? Has anyone used the Pinball Life shaker in a Spike 2 game, if so did you have any problems or how did you like it?
They are around $100. Cointaker also has a stern shaker motor. I have them in all my games. it’s not the red tremor one.
I'm completely happy with my Pro. I've played an LE and a premium and just didn't feel it added much. I go back and forth on pros vs premiums, but I think the differences are getting smaller between versions. I have a DP pro and love it, but also have a TWD and ACDC VE premium. Both of those games in the pro version felt stripped down to me, but for DP and IMDN, the differences feel much less.
Why are you guys disabling the bass frequency. I did that and all the base disappeared.
Quoted from bigdaddy07:
I had to make some changes to my settings since the upgrade to 1.06, as the sound was off with my old settings. This is with FF 10" kit.
Master Volume – 42
Balance – -3
Backbox – 8ohm
Backbox bass freq – 125hz
Backbox bass gain - 1.5db
Backbox treble freq – 4khz
Backbox treble gain - +3db
Cabinet speaker type – 8ohm
Cabinet bass freq – disabled
Cabinet bass gain - +11.25db
Cabinet treble freq – disabled
Cabinet treble gain – 3.375
Music attenuation - 2
Quoted from Bohdi:
FINALLY joined the club, and it's been a long time coming. Best Stern I've played yet. Love this game. What are the must have mods and protectors etc for it? Side art blades vs side mirrors too is what I can't decide??
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Quoted from parsonsaj:
I have an odd problem with my Pro since this weekend's work on it. After installing a Laseriffic topper and putting in a clear shooter lane protector, I have 2 new behaviors that I suspect have a common cause (though I don't know what that cause could be!):
1) The ability to pick the song using the flipper buttons persists until well after the ball has been launched and points have been scored. Previously, once any switch had been contacted hitting the flipper button would not change the song selection.
2) The autolaunch is slow to launch balls whenever there is a multiball started. The ball will just sit there in the shooter lane for a couple of seconds now before being launched. Previously it was almost instantaneous whenever there was a need for a ball to be autoplunged.
Anyone have any ideas what could be causing this new behavior? The game works perfectly fine otherwise and Lord knows I'm getting a lot of games in on it.
On the ball launch, sounds like the protector is causing the ball to sit too high and not activated the switch. Go into switch test mode and roll a ball in the shooter lane to see if the switch registers.
Quoted from Bohdi:
Much appreciated. Pretty sure i know, but want to make dam sure before turning it on. Thanks>>>
it has to be the left one, CN11. The connector for your mod looks like it has a wire in position 1 and position 4. The low ticket header (CN2) has power on pin 5 so no good. Also, the low ticket header only has 5v and I'm guessing your mod is 12v. The ticket header on the left (CN11) has 12v on pin 1 and ground on pin 4, which is what you want.
Quoted from Bohdi:
They sent instructions. Just had one picture, and it was hard to tell because the setup was a little different. Since the writing on the interface board is upside down, does that mean i'm connecting the connector "upside" down with the wires coming from above? Hate to sound so stupid, but i'm so new to Sterns and mods in general
The connector will only fit one way. In your pic, when you plug it in, the wires will be coming out of the connector on the top, if that makes sense.
Quoted from Bohdi:
Are there 2 different Orb mods? 1 that is interactive, and 1 that stays lit all the time? I found 1 for 20.00 and another for 46.00. Just curious what the difference is and which one people are buying.
Ours is wired to the game. The others I have seen are a plastic or 3d printed ball that sits on top of the existing flasher somehow. You have to move the flasher board I believe, but not really sure. Ours is an acrylic ball with an smd led inside on metal mount. For the pro, we can offer different color led options.
It's on our website, free shipping.
dtown We can do clear/bubbled, just ask.
Quoted from Bohdi:
I have the orb mod from Lermods and really think it adds a lot for not much really being there and going on. It's like a frosted glass and you can pick your color. I chose purple and love it. Breeze to install too. Think the interactive coffin lock mod is a must add-on as well..
Thanks, glad you like it!
Quoted from flynnibus:
Up next.. some more color...
The pinball life LED flipper kits. I've always liked their kits, and they've changed a bit over time... but still a great kit for the $. Has the built in controller and everything you need for an easy install.
Color picked for my premium scheme..
Now here's a tip.. because of the brightness of the LEDs and room around the apron... there usually is a lot of light leakage that is really distracting around the apron. Simply take some electrical tape and hood over the top half of the button to block the light. Make sure you don't obstruct the flipper plunger itself.. but beyond that, just place a piece or two to block the light.
And now no light leakage!
Up next.. on many games I like the trough illuminated.. but I wasn't sure on Maiden.. but I tried a yellow (because it's mostly orange) and a red. I like the cointaker strips because
1) They are cheap $5
2) They give you all the various adaptors you might need to steal a light socket or clip on.
Because all the lower GI bulbs are relatively hard to get to on the premium as they are under the flipper plates, etc.. I decided to jump off the GI that is under the apron itself. Because it's the LED boards.. most of the adaptors don't work, and aligator clips had high risk of shorting or slipping off. So instead, I snipped the socket off one of the adaptors.. and just easily tacked the wires to the solder pads on the LED board.
This made it easy to plug in or change the strip if I wanted. On older games I would attach the LED strip to the vertical back of the outhole.. but I tried sticking it directly to the underside of the apron this time. It's decent.. but sometimes you can see the LED reflection if you stand over the PF. I'm 50/50 on the red on the premium here.. but have left it so far.
Up next was the LERMods Spitfire. The model looks good. Mounting it can be a bit fiddly though.
First, the two light sockets attached to the post stock, don't give a lot of room for play. Second, the stock screw didn't want to screw in fully and tight into the post. This meant when layering the plane in the stack under the screw.. It would not hold the plane in position.. and the wires of the light sockets constantly wanted to push the plane where I didn't want it. The solution was to add a washer to the stack, which tightened up the screw's hold on the layers.. and clipping the factory zip tie on the light sockets to bend the wires a good bit so they stopped bullying the plane around. Once tightened up and in position.. new zip ties held the wires in place. The harness feeds under the plastic and ramp... which was harder than it felt it should be.. but isn't bad, just annoying as my fat hands couldn't really reach the hole. The included cabling and connectors are easy and well done. Once installed, I checked it out...
For the premium.. the red was a bit too much IMO.. I really wish I had some brightness control wired in (which in theory can be done downstream of the mod). Here it was on the PF.. and with the red in the plane off.
I opt'd to leave it off. Maybe in the future I'll experiment with a in-line controller to dim the red underwing lights.
Next?? How about some art..
Now here is where Spike is so much nicer. To install the art blades.. it's easiest on Spike just to remove the PF all together. All I had to do was free up the Cat5 cable in the cable loom (so cut three zip ties), and unplug 3 connectors. Then with the handle at the back and the apron... even an old dude with a broken back like me was able to lift the PF out and sit on the floor easily all by myself.
These are the album art blades by Tilt Graphics. Normally I'm a pingraphix guy.. but the art on these is fantastic and work so well with the game. Installing was easy. Just make sure to undo the two PF guides on the inside of the cabinet (as they will be in your way by about 1/2"). Just undo one side and rotate them down. With the PF out.. its easy to install the art blades without any fancy staging or prep.
Just peel from backing... With one hand, start the rear piece about 1/2" from the cabinet bolt and align the top of graphic right near, but not over the top edge of the wood. Tack up just the top edge, and with your other hand, try to align the top edge of the decal about 1/3 of the way down the cabinet with the top edge of the cabinet again.. Readjust as needed to get the blade tacked up and straight without any bows or folds. Don't push it all down yet! The blade will easily come right off if you only stick a small portion to start. Get the top 1/3 or so aligned, and just tacked up about the top 1" of the blade.. keep it straight and move down to align the rest of the blade towards the flipper end of the cabinet. Don't push the whole thing down until you are sure your top 1/2 or more is straight.. as it plays out all the way down to the flippers. When it looks good, start at one end, work your way down flattening the decal to the cabinet from the top end.. then work your way down to the flipper area. Free up the decal if needed to avoid any bows or wrinkles. If the top end is secured nice and square.. you can free up the far end of the decal and just work your way down the cabinet.. ensuring its flat and in the right spot as you go.
I did have pinstadiums in the game.. so I pulled the magnets off before installing the art blades.. They still stayed nice and sticky. I cleaned the cabinet walls with naptha to remove any left over gum before installing the blades too.
While I had the cabinet broke down a bit.. I wanted to tackle some cabinet issues I had. Prior seller had removed the head hinge bolts to move the game (bad) and lost some of the hardware. So when I picked up the game, the head was loose. I secured it, but not well enough apparently and the head rubbed and took some of the paint off the metal hinge at the base of the head.
So I masked off the area.. and did some touchup with some Rustoleum Satin black.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Results are great... you can't even see the repair here
And it's only visible under real direct light due to the nature of a paint chip
Once the art blades are installed... these are a must! https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
The price sucks.. but father's day is coming up, ask for a set for your gift. They work reallly well.
So plopped those on the cabinet.. and I dropped the PF back in myself and reconnected the wires.
With the art installed... I reinstalled the pinstadium lights. I set the magnets on the brackets so I made sure I had the correct orientation of the magnet strip to the light strip. Then simply aligned the led strip on the cabinet wall where I wanted them... sitting right near the top so you can't see any art at the top edge to distract your eye.. and still under the glass. With the blade positioned... I simply slide the led strip off the magnet strip.. and then with pressure with my fingers, just worked the magnet strip back and forth so it stuck well to the cabinet side. I let that setup a bit.. then put the LED strips back up.
And now she's all back together and boosted!
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Looks good. The plane install is slightly more fiddly to install on the premium/LE because it has two spotlights while the pro only has one. We should probably include a longer screw for the premium/LE.
Quoted from yuriijos:
Another mod question. Has anybody installed the backboard lighting kit from Cointaker? I have the LED’s in place and the cord end doesn’t plug into anything on the board behind the speaker panel. See pictures below, but the male end of the cord from the LED strip doesn’t match any connector on that board. [quoted image][quoted image]
That connector is for the wrong game, won’t fit your game. Which mod did you buy?
Quoted from ahdelarge:
Orange metallic powder coat? Looks amazing!
I got some legs and rails powder coated at a small place in my city, but he said that it was too expensive to keep metallic colours. I need to find another powder coater. Do you have the brand or colour name for the orange metallic?
Prismatic illusion orange. It doesn’t require any special process, any powder coater should easily be able to shoot this color.
Quoted from Bohdi:
Does the plane interfere at all with the arch when there both installed? I've been wanting the lighted arch, and possibly a plane also. Not sure if i want or need both. Just that the from Rods is more expensive. But that was my thought like you did, get the one from Rods which mounts in the left corner, then the arch is free and clear and no clutter
Just to clarify, our plane can be mounted over any playfield screw mount, it does not just have to be over the right ramp. It’s ideal over the right ramp as it glows from underneath and illuminates the play field, but it can go back right or back left and the underglow lights can be disabled by not hooking them up if you choose.
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