(Topic ID: 213089)

Up the Irons - Stern Iron Maiden Owners and True Fans Club!

By AlexSMendes

1 year ago

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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #124 Features matrix between pro, premium, and LE Posted by cletus (1 year ago)

Post #1039 Link to Iron Maiden Rules provides by Stern Posted by chuckcasey (1 year ago)

Post #2390 Ordering Eddie LE/Prem parts for a Pro (part numbers included) Posted by Mudflaps (1 year ago)

Post #2584 Part numbers for the components of the free ball trap kit from Stern. Posted by mollyspub (1 year ago)

Post #3081 Setting to change so Keith shows up in Iron Maiden more Posted by Who-Dey (1 year ago)

Post #4413 Loops Optos not registering the ball - mod fix Posted by f3honda4me (9 months ago)

Post #5013 Iron Maiden Rules Summary Posted by djreddog (6 months ago)

Post #5363 Loop speed set screw location picture Posted by djreddog (4 months ago)

Post #5829 Sarcophagus dumps ball instead of locking problem area to check Posted by metallik (19 days ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2745 1 year ago

So, I just became a pinsider and started my collection! Thought I would start with the best.

Got a Pro from Operation Pinball....gave really good service and I don't know how Fedex did it, but I sent a wire for payment Monday, and it was shipped the same day from Iowa, and got to my front door at 11:30 am on Wednesday to Boise, Idaho. Operation Pinball was great to work with (always texted me right back, fast shipping, etc).

I've been reading/lurking the forum for a while so knew what to expect when getting a NIB, but even for a first timer, it was a breeze. Hardest part was getting it up the stairs.

Got this AFMRLE on Monday locally, so now its not lonely.

I also have some goodies in the mail that I got a great deal on:
1. Stern HD glass
2. Stern shaker
3. Stern Headphone kit
4. Eddie figures from the Premium version

5. Ball Baron Ninjas
6. Some Mylar to put down on suspect areas.

I still need to get a subwoofer...trying to decide between 2 Polk PSW10, or run both pins to 1 Polk PSW10, or...maybe get a better subwoofer to share between them...not sure. Need to do some more research on it.

Also planning on probably getting an illuminated spitfire from lermods to brighten up the middle PF.

I also read through the 55 pages of this thread (which took a while), and....now am sad because I might have to read through it again to refind some info.
1. Basically...one of the first things I noticed was the washed out art/plastics of the bottom PF from the Cool white LEDs. So I need to find what warm white (or other color) LEDs to use.

2.I also have to refind the info on adjusting the plunger, though that shouldn't be hard to find (google should find it no problem). Besides adjusting the plunger, I also feel my plunger is kind of "grindy" and not smooth? Like there isn't grease or oil on it? It just doesn't feel smooth when pulling it back.

3. The power supply fan is ridiculously loud.....I'll have to refind the replacement fan info that makes it quieter.

Some other initial thoughts:
4. Glass was dirty...like, "cloudy". It also had gray "dust" on the edges when I pulled it out, which I assume was just from the movement of the glass against rubber. Windex fixed that right up (I'll use sparkle on the HD glass).
5. The slings were way too powerful....turned them down to around 10. (from 35). Also moved the lower flippers to 'normal' instead of 'hard', which was the new software default.

6. I found it odd that the 1.05 software removed the option of allowing/not allowing music selection on each ball. Sometimes I'll accidentally move a flipper before plunging which changes the song. I can change the song back but then the song "resets" to the beginning.

Anyway...glad to be a new member of the community!

20181017_114711 (resized).jpg20181017_182117 (resized).jpg
#2756 1 year ago

Whoa....I actually like that topper. Not so much for premium artwork, but yes for pro and definitely would look best on the LE. I'm assuming the only interactive part of it is lighting (unlike my afmrle topper).

And....is that the first leaked image of the star wars topper that has been severely delayed? If that topper doesn't have r2d2 rotate on it interactively....that would be a huge missed opportunity. I don't care if it would add to the cost....it better rotate and make r2d2 noises!

#2759 1 year ago

@lamihh Love the british flag armor...and...you are right, I think the pro cab art looks best, and the LE translight looks best.

@dts Also love the clairvoyant mod! Would love to buy the $15 figure...but...will probably have to watch ebay like a hawk since its not something "in stock" anywhere else...

#2761 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Started changing out the stock super bright LED's.
Cointaker warm white frosted under the slingshots.
To my eye, it's so much better.
Artwork pops and it just has a much nicer look. [quoted image]

I also think the GI washes out the artwork on the plastics, so want to change to a warmer white. However...which LEDs are you recommending from cointaker? A lot of options there and I haven't bought LEDs before. Is it the "bright frosted" option (44 or 555?) or some like the brighter retros, or "brightest ultra" or ?

#2765 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

These are the ones I bought - warm white, frosted. Warm white are softer than the bright whites.

Thanks for the response. Ok...I assume then that I can get these ->

The 'normal' ones (not premium non-ghosting) if I'm only dealing with modern games. Makes sense...I had a heck of a time with my house and switching to LEDs when a bunch of my switches are dimmers. I had to hunt for LEDs that didn't "ghost", and even then some still did so I had to keep one incandescent in the circuit and change the rest to LED. (the dimmer needed enough power draw to not have an led ghost)

#2800 1 year ago
Quoted from markymark2400:

Love the game and the rule set etc, but still despite a few tweaks which worked for a while, struggling with the auto plunge and ball hitting the flipper or the top of the skill shot, really fucking annoys me that you spend BIG money for NIB machines and effectively you are left with a machine you have to fix out the box, sorry just wanted to vent to fellow pinheads...

You can't ever get 100%, but you can get much closer at least. I did put up a full guide here 2 days ago if you haven't seen it ->


1 week later
#2842 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Released the lens tree mod I made for the mode lights so they have colors that match the mode.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-maiden-colored-mode-lens-tree-mod[quoted image]

Nice! Looks way more professional than the lighting gels I'm just going to duck tape on...great job!

3 weeks later
#3034 1 year ago

Sweet. Is this really all that lighted trough kits are? These are only $2.75 on sale....why are they like almost $20 from mezelmods, etc?

2 weeks later
#3158 1 year ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

That Eddie placement is great

That...actually is really good. Wait, did you add lights to the piece of mind eddie's eyes?

#3179 1 year ago

So, was the pin designed so that a half press of the flipper will trigger just the bottom flipper and then a full press will do both?

From the factory, mine came where both would be triggered at the same time, but I went ahead and adjusted it so a half press would just do the bottom flippers. That way..in multiball you can hold a ball and then an upper orbit won't be blocked.

Basically...I just want to know if by design it SHOULD do half presses but the leafs were just too tight from the factory. OR....it was designed NOT to allow half presses....

#3180 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

Looks good! I tried that and found the effect is incredible if you sync it to the color dome underneath. Make a wiring harness for each color with .062 pin molex connectors, and then get each color individually in a nano or chip, R G B. I replaced the plastic bead, which is around 8mm, with a larger agate 12mm bead and the effect is phenomenal. I’m still experimenting with a single RGB chip like the one under the plastic, so this was my test subject. Syncing the colors makes gameplay much clearer and the target more fun. It’s also beautiful.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Love it! I actually got the clairvoyant figure off ebay a few days ago for cheap!! ($11 shipped!). Unfortunately...I have a pro so I'm assuming I can only light up 1 color. And...I'm not an electrician but I did buy a solder pen to fix the drone motors on my DI so ...I guess I'll be learning!

#3187 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

Yeah, you’re right, probably slow changing RGB to general illumination. A second pico LED of one color to the flasher would look great, perhaps red as a white would be muted with the constant RGB. This is what I did with my Merlin mod on MMR, and it looks great, with a second LED synced to the moat flasher.

That....sounds like a really good option. Do you happen to have a writeup or post showing what you did? I've done alligator clips to GI before, but haven't tied something to a flasher...

#3199 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

Yes, that is probably a 2 pin molex connector under the playfield on the Pro, although I haven't seen the underside. If you want to send a pic, we could weigh in on that. My guess is that you could run the single flasher pico LED from the orb on the Clairvoyant down to a molex connector, plug that into a harness like what I made (above) that connects to the existing flasher. If the flasher is a direct connection into the node board, you might not want to do that. The other RGP slow changing LED would simply come down and connect to GI with alligator clips as you have done before.

Ok, here you go!

The flasher connects here into this molex ->

2018-12-13_1625 (resized).png

Which the wires then plug into the board with the orange connector ->

20181213_161455 (resized).jpg

Which is near the middle of the PF ->

20181213_161553 (resized).jpg

#3205 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

That's great for the application on the Pro, excellent! You have 2 pin molex connectors and can create a wiring harness for the mod with basic crimping skills, and solder to the crimp terminals as the wire will be small. You'll need connector housings, male and female, and crimp terminals, male and female. That's for whatever flasher color you choose, blue, red, green, whatever. Red would outshine the RGB slow color changing LED, but green would as well, and blue if bright enough. I can't tell if the connector is 0.062 or 0.093. I assume 0.062, which is what I have on the 4 pin molex connector for my LE. Would love to see how it turns out!

Sweet...thanks! Will do. Now I just need to wait for the ebay order to show up...and...order the wire materials and leds.

#3228 1 year ago
Quoted from darkryder:

I kinda dig the Aces High topper. Will sell my Delta9 sound activated topper for a big discount if anyone is interested

I like the aces high topper too...though would like to see the lighting on it first. Like...it seems like there are lights for the wing guns but...maybe not?

#3246 1 year ago

I was going to add some flasher lights to my spitfire mod, and wanted to connect some 3mm LEDs to the flasher under the PF (similar to lermods). I am about to do a marco order but I don't know what kind of connectors I need to search for to mock up a harness that would connect to this type of connection? I'm just not sure what to "search" for on marco and they have like a 1000 connectors...

20181216_134831 (resized).jpg

#3248 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Marco has the trifurcon connectors that go inside the plastic housing:
Now that you know what you're looking for specifically, you can probably find it all at Marco since PBL doesn't seem to have the trifurcon connectors.

Sweet...really appreciate it.

#3270 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Just for reference here's a pic of the LED used in the Clairvoyant globe with a regular sized match for scale. The LED is inserted into the globe about halfway (facing forwards) with a small drop of superglue applied to the wires at the edge to keep it in place.
[quoted image]

I'm not finding the pico slow changing RGB on lighthouseleds….did you get them somewhere else? I see the pico single color leds, and 3mm round top LEDs that I'll use for the spitfire guns, but not the RGB pico...

#3275 1 year ago

Thanks guys! The Micro category was probably the only link I hadn't clicked on yet at lighthouse...now I feel dumb. And it was product 11 of 11 so hidden on the second page by itself. Ebay LEDs look very similar though I don't need a 10 pack. (lighthouse is a 5 pack for about the same price per LED).

I do like the idea of placing the resistors beneath the PF...just depends on how much of a hassle it would be for 2-3 leds.

2 weeks later
#3496 1 year ago

I didn't see one...but does anybody know of a setting or something to change under the PF to have the drop targets not shoot up so hard? It seems when they reset, way more force is used than necessary.

#3551 1 year ago

1.06 released.

From the notes:
- Removed unused obsolete Standard Adjustments:

Oh man! Coil pulse power actually never did anything? I guess going from low->high and it feeling different was just in my head.

#3580 1 year ago
Quoted from malklavious:

Full update to version 1.06, tweaked the audio settings along the lines of bigdaddy07's suggestions: game sounding and playing great. I was a bit sad the update would wipe out my 501m GC score, however I promptly played a 500m GC game, including my first Mummy card (now that I know the trick for lighting the mummy jackpot by ripping the spinner) during a 3x play field . Damn, I love this game.

Dang...after rereading the rules ->


Yeah, so hit the spinner, then hit the captive ball, and rinse/repeat until you spell Mummy then hit center ramp for jackpot and get the card?

Originally I thought it was hitting the ramps, then ramps and orbits, because.....that is what is lit on the game. That is just for adding a ball.

#3690 1 year ago
Quoted from Diospinball:

So I am ever so slowly... And I do mean S-l-o-w-l-y... Learning how to fix my pinball machines. I think for major repairs I'm always going to pay someone... But, I was able to re-solder and attach the broken off wire to the upper right flipper coil. First time I tried the solder joint wasn't very good and it broke after an hour. Now its hour 4 and still holding...
I also updated the code. And I'm liking the code so far... But, one thing I don't like...
They seem to have added some callouts... That's always cool. But, I think they took out my favorite callout.
I really liked when you started a game and the Beast would say Welcome to my world under glass...
I haven't heard him say that and I've played about 4 hours on new code.
I hear him talk about the hangman wanting to meet him. Saying Ahoy there... Which is a shit callout.
Just SHIT!!!
JUST SHIT!!!! So... I really hope they put the welcome to my world under glass back in.
And I don't get why they would remove a callout. You paid for it. Yes, add to the callouts, but keep them in. It adds variety. But, remove the Ahoy there one. That's just shit.

The callout is still in there. I heard it today.

#3696 1 year ago
Quoted from Diospinball:

I only get really the hangman and ahoy there captain... Where you in single player or multiplayer mode.
There are different callouts during multiple players. Just curious.

Single player.

#3699 1 year ago
Quoted from Diospinball:

Wonder if there is an options for callouts... Are you sure you're on the most recent code????

Positive I'm on 1.06.

1 week later
#3731 11 months ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Cool vs warm white! No brainer for me! A lot better with warm
[quoted image]

Looks good! I went with sunlight bulbs from comet....I thought the warm white from comet was a bit too warm.

#3733 11 months ago
Quoted from darkryder:

This just showed up after 4 weeks of waiting [quoted image]

What are your initial thoughts? Really chintzy plastic, or decently made, is it smaller/larger than you thought it was going to be...etc?

2 weeks later
#3805 11 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

My maiden flipper are considerably louder and clunkier than my Metallica ones but I just wrote it of as double the flippers, double the noise. Only recently have I thought about taking a closer look.

Yeah, its a common complaint of having loud flippers. If you figure out why they are so loud, let us know!

#3830 11 months ago

Got my B/W brackets installed! Fairly straightforward install...took maybe 1.5 hours for all 4 corners plus setup/cleanup.

20190213_162411 (resized).jpg

#3834 11 months ago

Yep...same screws as in that tutorial thread. Though I did use #10 washers with each screw since the screws seemed a bit too long for comfort.

And yeah...if you look closely,...two screws are missing (one on upper bracket and one on bottommost right on the larger bracket). For those screws, I would have had to remove the shaker and remove the flipper switch to get the right angle with my screwdriver. Could I have done it? Sure...but didn't want to take the time.

Like...I went ahead and did all 4 B/W brackets, and I did 3 upper L brackets. Missing the one opposite the coin door...because...I would have had to go back to the store and buy a smaller L bracket since the ones I bought were too large to fit on the other side due to the start button.

2 weeks later
#3937 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

(takes off rubber on mini flipper on the one here)

Whats the advantage/disadvantage of taking it off anyway?

#3976 10 months ago
Quoted from malklavious:

Just noticed something today, the upper left flipper on my Pro isn't going back to it's full rest position. I lifted the glass and noticed there is a squeak and a little bit of resistance in the beginning of it's throw. When coming back to rest it stops at the resistance point, short by about 5-10% of it's range. It's not much, but enough to make the left orbit a bit tighter of a shot. When I move the other flippers there is no such squeak or resistance.
Being my first table, I'm new to the maintenance aspect. Anyone run into this before and know what is the cause and fix?

I was also getting some squeaky noise...though in upper right flipper. See here ->


And...I can't find my "fix" post..but...the squeak was happening from the rubber hitting the EOS leaf switch. I put a tiny dab of superlube on the contact point and the squeak went away.

Though...it was never bad enough to stop movement...

4 weeks later
#4210 9 months ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

I have these on my Pro... they are fantastic! Strongly recommend adding these. I've had Doug's speaker lights on all my games, and this new version takes things up a notch for sure!

Where are you getting them? Speakerlightkits says their "deluxe spike 2" system isn't available for purchase yet?

1 week later
#4337 9 months ago

OK, got the Aces High Topper. I do like it....the only thing holding it back right now is that its right next to AFMrLE's topper which is the industry leader...

20190412_100605 (resized).jpg

First impressions are ->

1. Build Quality is higher than I thought it was going to be. I expected it to be completely made of cheap plastic but the frame is actually metal and the parts are mostly hard plastic.

2. A negative...is that the wing guns are light/hot purple/pinkish? The clear lens on the light is more orangish anyway so not sure why its turning this hue. They should be straight red....

I do have some leftover photo gels and placing 2 reds in front of the light does improve it...I just have to figure out how to attach them.

20190412_100703 (resized).jpg

#4340 9 months ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

The aces high topper is awesome!

Yeah..in that video they are hot purple too...so at least its not just mine.

#4341 9 months ago

OK...so made some improvements.

First, I added double layer red photo gels to the gun lights. Its easy to take them apart and access the hollow area, and cut out small circles to jam in there.

20190412_205427 (resized).jpg

So now I went from this ->

20190412_100703 (resized).jpg

to this ->

20190412_211443 (resized).jpg

Still not perfectly red but...close enough.

I was also getting some light bleed on the bottom of the topper ->

20190412_211417 (resized).jpg

So I did a quick and dirty fix, where I just taped a strip of black construction paper to the bottom to make a "skirt".

20190412_213108 (resized).jpg

And had it flare out the front and two small pieces of tape to hold it down.

20190412_214120 (resized).jpg

Completely not noticeable from the front...you can only see it from a step stool. Now no more light bleed!

20190412_214344 (resized).jpg

#4356 9 months ago
Quoted from tilted81:

That light bleed bothers me too.. does the wing just pop off? Like just pry it off?

No...there are two screws on both sides. Then it just slides forward off. You can't miss 'em. And...maybe you can come up with a more elegant solution than mine. My original idea was to glue/tape some black foam but...I just didn't have any on hand.

#4359 9 months ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

I drilled a hole in the base, preferred that over zip tie method.

Same. Its how its done on the Premium/LE too.

#4361 9 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

He's factory zip-tied on the back foot on the Premium we have here.[quoted image]

Oh wait...you are right....though, isn't he also screwed down? Maybe I'm misremembering a picture I once saw...

3 months later
#5049 5 months ago

How about this...whats the quickest way to reset/cancel a game? On other pins, I can go into the menus and exit, and it resets/cancels the current game in progress, but not in IMDN. Is there a trick to canceling a game?

#5051 5 months ago

Ok sorry....I should have clarified. Holding in the start button starts a new game.

I'm asking...how to stop the current game and go back into attract mode.

Basically...lets say an ADHD kid starts a game at my house, plays one ball and then leaves ….I want to cancel the game and would rather not turn off/turn on...

#5060 5 months ago
Quoted from Maide:

I think you'll have to use the service menu for now. They just added an "abort game" feature to BK3, where you hold the left flipper and start together, so it's very possible that'll be in the next update to Iron Maiden.

I don't see how you would abort a game from the service menu either though...

But...good to hear that they are adding such a feature to some pins.....I have hope that they will get it in the next IMDN update!

2 weeks later
#5242 5 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

There are two separate conversations going on. One about the Pharoah protector from mezel, the other the metal orbit protector from more recent stern runs.

Thanks...didn't know about this recent metal orbit protector....I emailed stern and they are sending it to me without any fuss!

#5293 4 months ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

I tried both of the 2 Spitfire mods. I ended up keeping the Rods Mods one, since I think it looks cooler to have the spinning props, plus the place it mounts is far better if you have the Mezel arch installed (which I do).
I actually still have the Mezel spitfire and would sell it for half of what I paid.
I thought I got the flasher cover from Mezel also, not realizing it would be mostly a waste on my Pro, since that flasher rarely goes off on the pro. Looks really cool when it does, though, and would look REALLY cool on an LE/Premium where it goes off a lot more.

Well...have I got the mod for you then! Check it out ->


#5329 4 months ago
Quoted from Diospinball:

Does anyone know what size tool or what type of tool I can use to screw in the screws that go into the micro switches.
They have little nuts on them... Not a big tool guy.
And I tried to reattach by hand... But, after a few hours it comes loose again... So I just need to tighten them a bit tighter and I'll need a tool for that.
Just wondering if any suggestions.

Pretty sure it uses a 3/16" driver. You probably just need a slightly bigger toolset that includes the smaller sizes.

3 weeks later
#5471 4 months ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Can you elaborate on this ? Did it just peel off or did you use freeze spray?

I just peeled off mine...was pretty easy since its new mylar. I think you have to use freeze spray on really old mylar. And yes....I had to spend quite a bit of time with some cotton and alcohol to remove the sticky residue.

#5473 4 months ago
Quoted from Thunder90:

What was the condition of your mylar prior to removal? The pretty beat up condition of mine is what concerns me. Might just have to buck up and give it a go

Um..yeah, about what yours looked like? I really wouldn't worry too much about the removal process...its not hard.

3 weeks later
#5555 3 months ago
Quoted from Talon2000:

Just over 300

Whats the build date? Does anybody know if stern switched PF providers during their build run?

#5572 3 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

1. It's fine. If you put on a stronger spring so you can make it around the orbit manually, it messes up the super skill shot, making it a lot harder.
2. Film it in slo-mo with your phone and review to see where it's going bad. It's probably just a misshapen guide rail or a cross weld that's sticking up a little into the ball path, throwing it off kilter. Once you know the issue, you can either bend the rail or fil down the piece that's messing with the ball path.

And make sure that the manual plunger is hitting the ball right in the center.

#5584 3 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

I made one more adjustment to my shooting guide today that made a big difference, so I thought I'd pass it along. I have made all the normal adjustments and installed the more powerful coil, which has helped. After time my percentage of accurate auto launches was decreasing so I thought I'd take another look at it. Stern had sent me the new and "improved" metal shooting lane guide. I tried to install it and found the adjustment mounting tab was in the wrong place--and I didn't want to drill another hole in the playfield. Both guides are very similar, except the new one does not have the threaded rod riveted onto the guide near the adjustment screw tab. So, I cut the one off of my original guide, filed down a small burr that was right at the end of the guide, polished the guide and put it back on. Oh, ho--a little more adjustment is available with that rod gone! I had to lower the tip of the upper right flipper to make use of that adjustment, but now auto launch is at 100%--and it has never been that good. The only neg to dropping the flipper a smidge is that the ball will not loop all the way around to the lower right flipper, but I can live with that. Another plus is the loop shot is way easier to hit with this new alignment--so I like that a lot.

Sorry..could you take a pic of what the new lane looks like? And did you need a rivet tool to install the new guide?

1 week later
#5629 86 days ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Eddie is leaning over too far.[quoted image][quoted image]

Whoa...is that a picture of a "correct" one or one that is leaning over too far?

Look at mine….leaning way farther over. The back "foot" where the black plastic pad is located, is flat against the plastic so its leaning due to the shape of the mold...->

20191025_100656 (resized).jpg

20191025_100555 (resized).jpg

I just noticed it....but a pinball will actually slightly hit his face when going down the habittrail!

#5633 85 days ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

The pic is the incorrect mold. Yours looks worse than mine! Where did you get yours ?

Ok...so….I'm away from home now but will look at it again tomorrow...but it looks like mine has just sagged over time. A lot.

I bought mine exactly a year ago direct from stern. As I'm looking back in my picture history...I can see last year it looked just fine. Here is a pic where I was showing my clairvoyant mod ->

eddie2 (resized).jpg

#5637 85 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

It looks like yours just fell over. The feet are in the wrong placement now. If you fix the feet placement, it should be close to right.

No...the back foot is screwed into the plastic. The front foot was never "attached" to the plastic. The front foot in the wrong spot right now because the back leg is now at a lower angle...

#5641 84 days ago
Quoted from Yfichelle:

I have put these figures on mine... Just awesome :[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah..I also have the neca trooper figure.....and love the macfarlane piece of mind and cyborg figures but they are just too expensive for me to justify.

Ok I went ahead and hot glued the front foot to the plastic. If it doesn't hold (there is pressure on the figure now since the plastic is being "bent back" to its original position), then I'll contact Stern and see if I can get a replacement.

My guess...is that since the back foot was the only thing attached to the plastic, that over time, there is just too much weight of the figure to be supported only by the back leg, so it slowly got bent. I probably should have taken the advice of another user and just hot glued both feet to the plastic originally. Then the weight of the figure would have been supported by two feet.

20191026_153309 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#5665 71 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

I did spot these but the design doesn't really blow what's left of my hair back. My thoughts are that despite being heavier vinyl decals, in those particularly extra heavy traffic areas the decals won't last the punishment.

I also like the look of plain metal ramps too. Metal ramps are an upgrade over plastic ones so leave the stickers for trying to cover up plastic.

#5715 66 days ago

My Pro build date June 2018 has cones.

#5734 62 days ago

Has anybody bought the mezelmods/rock custom pinball interactive undercabinet lighting kit? I have extra RGB LED lighting strips so was going to connect it myself, but I want to know how they are actually connecting it to the pin. From their description it states ->

This kit is tailored to this machine to produce an interactive light show. Lights interact with the game (not remote or sound activated). This easy to install product is made with high quality super bright LEDs and connects via piggyback connection to the games boards, 100% plug and play.

They don't have instructions to do the connection on either of their sites so I can't see what they are actually doing and what board they are connecting to. Anybody have the instructions?

#5737 60 days ago
Quoted from Rock914:

Hey, I am all for guys making these things themselves if they have the know how or put in the effort to build it. Publicly asking how to copy a mod, come on man you are better than that, put in the work yourself. You will have a great sense of pride once you complete it. These take many many hours to develop which is why most people buy. I think most people view their time as worth more than a few bucks an hour.
You are playing with fire here, especially if you are asking this question. Just put alligator clips on the wires and attach to whatever light you want. Leave your boards alone, you can fry your machine or worse yet cause a fire.
The locations and plugs change, especially for Spike games. This can be done obviously. Do yourself a favor and have an electrical engineer friend help. For your customers sake, for your daughters sake. Buy a quality product from Mezelmods, Lermods, or Rock Custom Pinball.

Sorry, I didn't really know how "trivial" or not this mod is for IMDN. For example...for my AFMr LE...attaching a RGB LED strip is trivial since its just a simple wiring harness to split the RGB signal from the RGB speaker lights. For my LOTR...it already has interactive speaker lights, so all it takes is a RGB y-splitter that runs to a RGB led strip. For my DI...it just takes a simple wiring harness to connect it to one of the pop bumper flashers.

After reading a few more mod threads on interactive cabinet lights...yeah...I see how connecting directly to boards is more involved than I originally thought it might be. Sorry for stepping on anybody's toes.

#5743 60 days ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

That is actually really cool. I did something similar on my Metallica for the fuel gauge, although it was just colored gel filters taped under the playfield - this is much nicer, and totally makes sense.
Slippery slope, but I’m thinking this machine is going to be in my collection for awhile, so I don’t mind a few “small” mods. Famous last words...

That's all I did...I just taped colored gel filters to my maiden. $1.33 shipped from aliexpress and you can do all 3 sections (fire orbit, mode tree, mummy letters), though I didn't do mummy letters (I liked the white).

4 weeks later
#5782 31 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Who here has the iron maiden stern topper?

I have the aces high topper...did you have a question about it? I have pictures here that show how I modded it a bit ->


#5789 30 days ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Start with checking the flipper coil power. Next, lift the PF and examine the entire flipper mechanism to make sure nothing is amiss.

Also need to check the flipper/PF gap. My flippers were too tight from factory.

3 weeks later
#5880 9 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So I'm lost here... When I first got the game, I was getting the Trooper card nearly every game. The MB would start, and somehow I'd hit enough things to qualify it.
Now, it seems to be the one card I am always missing. I start Trooper MB, clear the drops, collect the SJP from the centre ramp shot, and then just try to hit a bunch of the blue shots. Do I have to get every single on of them?

The cannon shot is the center ramp shot. That shot lights after you clear the drops, and the first one adds a ball, and it collects a random number of other lit jackpot shots.

The super jackpot shot can be collected after you hit a certain number of lit jackpot shots (I think its like 4 or something), and is the jackpot shot from the upper left flipper. That is what gets you the card.

Please see: http://tiltforums.com/t/iron-maiden-pinball-rulesheet-wip/3787

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