(Topic ID: 213089)

Up the Irons - Stern Iron Maiden Owners and True Fans Club!

By AlexSMendes

2 years ago

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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Fezmid
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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #124 Features matrix between pro, premium, and LE Posted by cletus (2 years ago)

Post #1039 Link to Iron Maiden Rules provides by Stern Posted by chuckcasey (2 years ago)

Post #2390 Ordering Eddie LE/Prem parts for a Pro (part numbers included) Posted by Mudflaps (1 year ago)

Post #2584 Part numbers for the components of the free ball trap kit from Stern. Posted by mollyspub (1 year ago)

Post #3081 Setting to change so Keith shows up in Iron Maiden more Posted by Who-Dey (1 year ago)

Post #4413 Loops Optos not registering the ball - mod fix Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #5013 Iron Maiden Rules Summary Posted by djreddog (10 months ago)

Post #5363 Loop speed set screw location picture Posted by djreddog (8 months ago)

Post #5829 Sarcophagus dumps ball instead of locking problem area to check Posted by metallik (4 months ago)

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#308 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Alright folks, here's my story - ill try to make it short
I put a deposit down with gexchange (thanks JJ!) the day after the first initial stream with DF & KME. JJ reached out to me last Thursday and said games are on the way, need final payment - paid that instant. I asked Friday when we'd expect something and he said he'd hope they would show up at his shop Friday. I heard nothing all weekend so pretty much figured it would ship sometime this week and thought, with any luck I 'MIGHT' have this by Friday before the weekend. Then, the email came....shipping info! Finished up some work and then checked the tracking #, it was already in Los Angeles! JJ had shipped it out Friday night! Holy crap JJ you rock! I call freight company and they said they'd deliver Tuesday (today) between 11am-3pm....yea, ive heard that before (..3pm...4pm....5pm....crickets...6pm...7pm...) Not this time! Guy made me my first stop and was here before 11am! Needless to say, I was not prepared; no shaker motor, no extras, luckily I had 5 new PBL Glossy balls in my tool chest and one opened but unused gloss ball. Score! This is a 6-ball game btw for anyone ordering balls.
On with the pics!
This thing looks sweet.

Yes! I have room for it....

Uh oh....first issue! Luckily it's super minor.

This ramp is much bigger than it looked on videos:

I think you have to be Keith Elwin or something to make this super jackpot...

Some play field pics, artwork and insert matrix is amazing...

Now that's a shooter protector!

Shipped with .91 code (already updated it to .92)

Looking good!

Backglass art is amazing

Make sure it's level...

This is new to me, I like it! but I think they've been doing this since introducing LCD...

All snug and cozy at home!

Ive only a handful of test games so time to get playing so I can come back with a full review

The artwork on the cabinet, BG, and especially the PF is simply incredible!

The inserts look great too, really nicely styled and all looking clear and not a lot of crazing.

...wish the tech who mounted the center ramp could have gotten the left screw nice and flush with the ramp though (OCD that way).

Impressed with the "extras" on the Pro, service rails, metal ramps and drop targets, spinners, and even a nice shooter lane protector.


3 weeks later
#643 2 years ago

Does anyone protect the powder-coated legs from the bolts with clear plastic washers? Thought I saw that somewhere...

#715 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Between the lower left spinner and the left sling is a stand up target with a cross on it. What does that do? I've been meaning to take the glass off and trigger it to see what it does.
I don't know if I can hit it from my right flipper. Feels like the shot to the spinner is right off the end of the flipper.

If you aren’t in a mode, (Shatzing) alley passing from the right flipper through the left inlane into the Gravestone target will spot an unlit X target.

#851 2 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I replaced all the cool white Stern LEDs in the GI on my Pro with Comet warm white 2835 frosted LEDs today and it is a huge improvement! It really makes the artwork pop and warms it up vs. the cool LEDs which wash out the artwork. I'll try to get some pics although it can be hard to photograph.

The same thought occured to me too. Seens like the warn colors would benefit from warm white bulbs.

#893 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Just wanted to post this in case anyone else has similar Flipper Issues.
After about a week of play, my bottom left flipper started sticking in the up position. It wasnt the coil staying energized, but that the coil wouldnt not spring back to normal position. I put a tighter spring on the mech and that helped but every once in awhile it would stick especially when i'd cradle up and stage the flippers during play. I requested a whole new mech but Patrick Powers (stern - great support) wanted pics of the coil sleeve thinking it might have gotten the wrong one accidentally installed which was causing the shaft to stick. With the help of JJ at GEX (Great customer service on a weeknight!) he helped me identify what i needed to look for and to check out the coil stop as well.
<<<Insert time to laugh at me comment>>> after 13 years in this hobby i didnt know what the coil sleeve was or where to find the coil stop - i always thought the sleeve was the paper around the coil and you took that off to expose the coil and look at its 'sleeve' and thought the stop was the rubber that stops the flipper mech on the return - after JJ corrected me that the sleeve is in fact the plastic sleeve the coil goes in and out of and the stop is at the end of the coil (opposite) the wires, i embarrassingly unscrewed 2 screws (super easy) by the coil stop to investigate. <<<end laughing at me comment and back to troubleshooting topic>>>
I found that there was a big washer around the coil stop and it was warped to all hell. JJ was like wtf is a washer doing on a coil stop? Needless to say, we both agreed lets just remove it. This was approx a week ago and have not had a single problem since. Flippers work great and no more intermittent sticking. Hopefully someone gets use out of this post, or at the very least gets a good laugh at what i thought a coil sleeve was or maybe finds out what a coil sleeve and stop is like i didnt lol now at least i know what is involved when people talk about cleaning coil sleeves and/or filing coil stops. Its not replacing paper or filing a rubber stop

Congrats on getting your hands a little dirty and learning something along the way!

Another thing to watch out for is Stern's stock coil stops are notoriously bad, the rivet will often disintegrate in little time and cause problems. The Pinball Life replacements are better.

1 week later
#1091 2 years ago

I picked up my LE yesterday!

I was wondering how durable the foil decals on the cabinet are? I have a puppy who sometimes gets excited when people play pinball and will jump up and put his front paws on the bottom of the cabinet. Doesn't harm normal decals (he's not a large dog) but was wondering if the foil ones on the LE might be more delicate?

#1129 1 year ago
Quoted from Mizzou0103:

How are ball times on the game


#1166 1 year ago
Quoted from imharrow:

The Mylar under the ramp on my LE does not cover the entire width of the ramp. It looks like the right corner could wear the playfield. Is this normal, or is the Mylar misapplied at the factory? I am thinking I should pull it off and replace.

The ramp edge should be flat so as long as the mylar is under most of it it should keep the corner from hitting the PF too I would think. But redo if you want of course.

Quoted from way2wyrd:

My mylar goes all the way across but ive been debating adding a second piece. It looks like the ramp smack may eventually cut thru the first piece at some point in the future

You guys are paranoid! You'll be able to tell if it start to damage the existing mylar in the future in plenty of time to take corrective action...

#1176 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Check this out:
Trooper has nothing to do with cyborg. Cyborg is all dependent on the 5 power features (left side of display). When they’re slightly gray’d Out, there will be a # of shots shown for a specific power feature which activates that power feature. Once they’re activated, you hit that soecific power feature shot X number of times again to qualify that feature to be collected at the power jackpot. When the power feature is lit up or pulsing with no numeric value of shots it means it’s ready to be collected at the power jackpot. Having multiple power features pulsing increases the power jp multiplier. Once the power jp is collected, or you drain and miss out the points, that power feature will be completed and checkboxed. Checkbox all 5 features will light cyborg.
Hope that makes sense, I typed it on my phone lol.

Well done!

I love the risk/reward of deciding when to collect the power jackpots. So much thought and refinement in these rules - all Keith's experience and knowledge brought to bear in this game.

#1225 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Started changing out the stock super bright LED's.
Cointaker warm white frosted under the slingshots.
To my eye, it's so much better.
Artwork pops and it just has a much nicer look.

Much better, the stock bulbs wash everything out. Whoever is doing the lighting design at Stern is failing. WW vs. cool white is LED 101. Yes, I AM saying I could have done a better job in my sleep.

#1335 1 year ago
Quoted from hank527:

You have a full edition based on the Powerslave album. One would think we'd get some kind of mini wizard or Powerslave mode yet, right?
Trooper is the pro with a main multi all, Number of the Beast is a wizard mode. Powerslave has what?

Plus the “Power Pyramids”.

#1336 1 year ago
Quoted from jorant:

So I'm not an iron maiden fan... like... at all. And yet the game does look awesome. Anyone here think the theme can be sorta overlooked and still enjoy the game? I love Metallica and dont care about that theme either, mostly because the game focuses more on the things IN the game like snakes and sparky. Would you say it's the same thing here?

So in fact this is not an Iron Maiden band theme at all, but rather the theme is based of a series of comic books that themselves are based off the songs and Eddie mascot from Iron Maiden the band (Legacy of the Beast).

So if you were read the comics then you could get into the theme of the game without concern about Iron Maiden the band, though their songs do play in the game but are amazing soundtracks for pinball anyway.

For Iron Maiden “the band” fans like myself the Legacy of the Beast theme is not really what we wanted, but rather the sharper slightly more sinister Eddie that has been the bands mascot for decades. This is the main issue I have with the Prem translite art it’s pure LotB, with a more cartoony take on it. The LE BG has the closest representation to the classic Eddie art IMHO, mostly because it’s not a row of cartoon characters.

Of course, the latest band tour is also based off of The Legacy of the Beast.

In any case, Legacy of the Beast is a pretty decent theme for a pinball machine, though maybe they should have included the comics with the game so folks would have an idea what it was all about.

1 week later
#1406 1 year ago

I was working on my LE today adding some mods and tweaking things and I noticed that the balls are taking a beating on this game!

Here’s a pic after less than 200 plays.


I’m thinking the culprit is the sharp metal edges the balls fall onto below the target on the backboard. In the pic below you can see these edges are also showing some dings from the balls.

A9FAAB32-B492-4B65-A190-C1E07D5EEA79 (resized).png

To try to prevent or at least lessen this damage in the future I put some skinny strips of clear Gorilla tape over these two edges. They should provide a softer edge for the balls to land on. I’m sure they will get chewed up from all the ball hits over time but should be relatively easy to replace as needed.

I’ll put some new balls in and see how they fare after another hundred games or so.

#1427 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

I wouldn't bother. Almost every modern pin has sharp edges that will scratch balls. The balls will smooth the edges over time and lessen the effect. Your tape will last two, maybe three hits before the same process takes effect. Tumble your balls of you're that worried, but scratched ball damage is over rated. Just ask any major operator. I've seen modern stern machines left neglected for years with dull balls from years of scratches. Clean the grime off and you have a very nice playfield.

Fair enough. It may not be worth the effort but I'll keep an eye on it and see.

While I don't doubt that modern extra-thick clearcoats are pretty durable it is also a well known fact that using a worn ball over an extended period can destroy a playfield.

I'll also try putting these balls through my polisher but I doubt some of those horizontal cuts are coming out.

1 week later
#1503 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Put 5 red bulbs in my pro for the 'LE' effect.
Not sure if I like it better or not.

Lol. I spent the time to REMOVE the fugly red leds from the bottom half of my LE.

It's fine with warm white LEDs in there. Still darker when it's "dark" and avoids the terrible color wash from the red on the plastics art, etc.

#1573 1 year ago
Quoted from Asael:

Today my LE #151 came. Zero Problems so far. I think it's a realy awesome machine and it fits with it's gameplay right in my collection. As a big Maiden fan this is a dream pinball game for me. Good job STERN!
For the LE the speaker should be set to 4 Ohm in the software?

Congratulations! You've got one of the best! Yes, 4 ohm for the LE.

#1574 1 year ago
Quoted from jorant:

The more I play this game, the more I like it. At first I wasnt super crazy about the shot layout, as it was hard for me to find them. But now, I'm getting more into the rules and seeing that there are many ways to play. There seem to be more options to go for on this game than many. You can just do multiballs all day and get tons of points for that, do modes and get tons for that, or just abandon it all and do loops all day and take in the points. I'm really enjoying how different each game can be.
Also, does this have a sort of wide body feel to anyone else? Something about the shot layout gives me a wide body vibe, for some reason. Maybe its the lack of toy that makes it feel more....wide?

I guess it kind of does have a bit of a fast widebody feel with the 4 flippers and far left and right shots near the bottom of the pf. I like widebodies so that's a good thing.

I know what you mean, I keep discovering new ways to get way more points than I thought possible on this game doing different things. So many ways to score it's fantastic. Stacking modes that support it with multi-balls is great, but you can really cash out by claiming multiple super-jackpots on Trooper MB too, etc. etc.

#1634 1 year ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Two of my balls miss. The rest make it. Seriously it’s like a bowling alley with changing conditions.

IMDN is a pretty “organic” pinball machine, and feels kind of classic/old school that way. It’s never going to work 100% all the time, that’s the randomness of mechanical pinball.

My autoplunger works about 70% of the time. I’m not going to try adjusting it, it works perfectly and then it doesn’t, and then it does a bunch, and then it doesn’t...

The auto-plunger itself has a lot of variabilty left to right in its design, I don’t think you can make it perfect without a plunger with tighter tolerances in the mechanicals.

I find my manual plunger will not work if I don’t release it cleanly/fully. As intended.

The looping shots and even the lower left spinner shot feel great and “get in your head”. I think I might have dreamt about them last night...

#1650 1 year ago
Quoted from TKDalumni:

The pro is a bit faster, more brutal and tougher to play. Depends what gets your juices flowing...for me that's the pro. Play both and decide.
Real playas, play pro's (TM)

#1684 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

Seems like a better value to get a pro and another used machine for the cost of the LE.

Well that is the crux of the matter here, isn't it. If you have more room than $, or maybe not that into Iron Maiden as a theme, then the Pro will suffice and provide hours of solid gameplay. If you're like me and have limited room and are big into Iron Maiden as a theme, then the LE is the right choice.

So no sense arguing about it. There are all solid games. Whether or not the Prem/LE is "worth the $" will largely depend on how much room you have for more games, and whether you developed an exquisite taste for Iron Maiden music in your mispent youth.

#1727 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

Oh, that's a little cheaper than I thought I saw before... Thanks!
Now the question - do you think it makes a big difference on IMDN?

Quoted from MikeS:

The biggest thing you can do to deal with glare on SPIKE games like IMDN is turn down the backbox lighting to 10% during gameplay and also turn off any direct overhead lighting in the room. I also have one of those bent plastic thingies to reduce glare from the LCD display. Glare is really a non-issue on my game and the $250 could be better spent elsewhere in your gameroom. Also, changing the GI LED's to warm white instead of cool white makes the game's lighting a lot easier on the eyes.

I agree with the suggestions above re: dimming the BG light during play, etc.

However, adding stadium lights should actually be cheaper and also basically solves any external light source glare issues, plus provides improved PF lighting. I'd do that long before I spent that kind of $ on anti-glare glass.

Even with the Stern anti-glare glass on my LE the BG and lights, etc. reflect off the PF it's so shiny. More light under the glass is a better solution IMHO.

1 month later
#2314 1 year ago
Quoted from Quadrat:

Thanks for that. Just ordered books 1-5. Got three at $1.60 and two at $3.99

Had a look, was going to be $12.78 for the 5 comics and then $15.60 for shipping to Canada = approx. $40 Cdn.

Then I found that they are publishing all 5 as a single book in early Oct. and I can get them from amazon.ca for $12.82 with free shipping (Prime).

amazon.com link »

3 weeks later
#2508 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckcasey:

Certainly not required but for home use and if you like mods, this is, on most pins, one of the best $100 you can spend. IMO.

I’d vote external powered sub 1st, then shaker. But of course get both! Totally next level!

#2544 1 year ago
Quoted from bigduke6:

Did the same as Bigdaddy and agree. Sounds much better than stock but if you improved the amp it would be outstanding.

This thread shows how to install an inexpensive external amp for the speakers to greatly improve the sound quality (haven't done this myself): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-on-board-amp-with-external-amp-for-iron-maiden

1 week later
#2673 1 year ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Guys last time i updated all my audio settings got wiped out. In general what is the best settings geared towards the music taking precedent over the call outs.

FYI on my game I have Music Attenuation -25, and Speech Attenuation at 0. Rocks!

#2696 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

I disagree...... For 79 bucks " im close enough to pick up " FF speakers were a huge upgrade and and keep a factory look, Professionally done wiring and no external STUFF was a big sell for me

Still not nearly as good without a powered sub though.

#2730 1 year ago
Quoted from RatShack:

The headphone jack and volume control are nice additions.
Instead of getting anti-glare glass, I set the backbox illumination during gameplay to 0%, it made a huge difference. You don't need anti-glare if there's no glare to begin with.

Or instead of the glass if you're so inclined make a set of stadium lights (or buy some). Using these will totally eliminate the external glare from the backglass and display and pretty much anything else. Not to everybodies taste though. I personally have big issues with potentially "over-lighting" this game, and esp. with the "jail bars" stripes it puts on the metal ramps.

1 month later
#3027 1 year ago

Thought I'd post up some info on some of the mods I've done to my LE. I think I'm basically "done" with changes though I may still add some additional spot lighting in a few places down the road.


- Like many I've replaced the stock Piece of Mind Eddie with the "Neca Piece of Mind Deluxe" one off EBay (over the left ramp entrance).
- Added a McFarlane Spawn Eddie Trooper figure on top of the drop targets (posed to resemble the LE backglass).
- Was inspired by guinnesstime 's post (#4599324 on this thread) to find and add the Art Asylum Ultimate Series Number of the Beast Red Devil figure to the right ramp loop area.
- Moved the Cyborg Eddie that came with the game to the left ramp loop area. It looks much better there viewed at a different angle from the left. The silver highlights on it reflect the loop lighting below as well for good effect.

WAllFIg (resized).JPG
WRtFig2 (resized).JPG
Wleftfiguer (resized).JPG


- Replaced all the cool white GI bulbs with warm-white under "warm" colored plastics (yellows, red). The playfield and plastic artwork really shines with these vs the stock cool white GI bulbs. Highly recommended.
- Replaced all Red GI bulbs in the bottom 1/2 of the playfield (Fear of the Dark mode) with warm white instead. The red GI really washes out the PF art and looks like sh*t. The warm white is 1000% better and still is plenty "dark" enough for Fear of the Dark mode.
- Replaced the cool white LED bulbs in the backboard (pyramid plastics) with warm white and removed a few that were hot-spotting and to provide more contrast in the lighting to draw focus to the lite items.
- Added small warm white LED strip lighting behind the Pharaohs Tomb gate plastic on the left ramp.
- Added small warm white LED strip lighting above the Pharaoh plastic over the backboard target.
- Replaced the bright white flasher from the left ramp loop (pointing at the Pharaohs Tomb gate) with a regular red LED bulb, which I then covered as much as possible with a black sharpy. The original flasher is waaay too bright and simply reflects like a mirror off the plastic. The dimmed down red LED provides a much more subtle red pulse which I prefer.
- Replaced the dim yellow flasher under the Pharaoh's Tomb lock mech with the bright white one from the left loop flasher and re-aligned it for maximal shine-through. This is a great improvement as you can actually notice now when the tomb flasher is going off. Highly recommended.
- Replaced the bright white flasher in the right loop (was pointing at the Cyborg Eddie figure originally) with a regular warm white LED. Still plenty noticeable when it's flashing and provides a nice light for the red beast figure.

Lighting (resized).JPG
Bottom (resized).JPG

I've also got the yellow tinted plastic protectors on the pop bumpers, makes them glow nicely and also the slightly blue tinted ones (hollow in the middle to preserve colors on the artwork though) on the slingshots and ball guides.

I've considered adding Stadium Lighting as the game is pretty dark in the mid-playfield area but rejected it as this game looks much better IMHO with more subtle lighting with feature lights and shadows (IJ is the same), so will probably add a couple more spots or LED strips in a few strategic places in the future instead.

Was also going to add a plane model but have decided not to as I think the difference in scale with the figures would look odd and it really doesn't need it.

#3042 1 year ago
Quoted from PinKopf:

I'd personally like to see the shatz target give you more for a successful shot - say possibly credit all outstanding x targets to lite 2x immediately, or at least count towards 2 targets or something. Otherwise I don't see much gain in shooting for it vs an actual target. Maybe I just suck at shatzing/don't trust that shot myself.
Getting to 3x could be left 1 for 1, but it somehow doesn't feel worth it as-is, at least on the 2x level.

Is there an adjustment in the settings for this target? That would be nice, I'd go for it if it paid off more. Current setting makes sense if you're Keith Elwin...

1 week later
#3110 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

I think the Newton balls suck and are a horrible design, but they arent too bad with a little tweaking. I think the real bitch on the Premium and LE's could end up being all of the other moving parts down the road when they start failing.

Bah. Life is short, live for the moment! Playing the Pro after owning an LE is like playing playing a visual pinball version of the game. Missing all the kinetic feedback that the Prem/LE provides. If you have a Pro and love it just don't play an Prem or LE and you'll be fine.

..and get a Flu shot!

#3184 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

So, was the pin designed so that a half press of the flipper will trigger just the bottom flipper and then a full press will do both?
From the factory, mine came where both would be triggered at the same time, but I went ahead and adjusted it so a half press would just do the bottom flippers. That way..in multiball you can hold a ball and then an upper orbit won't be blocked.
Basically...I just want to know if by design it SHOULD do half presses but the leafs were just too tight from the factory. OR....it was designed NOT to allow half presses....

Yes should do staged flipping. Half press fires bottom flipper full press fires top too.

You just need to tweak the switches a bit it’s pretty easy.

#3223 1 year ago

Underwhelming and overpriced (to say the least).

If anything these should have come standard on Prem and LE games.

#3280 1 year ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I'm still trying to figure out some of the game rules based on the game instructions previously written up but I'm not quite clear on a few game points.
1) When the game says "Shoot the sarcophagus!", what is the exact target? I'm confused if that's the stationary ball above M-U-M-M-Y or hitting the left ramp that loops around.
2) to get one of the tree inserts to light solidly, do you have to complete the mode or just start the mode? It seems that some of the modes it stays solid just for starting the mode, others you have to progress.
3) I'm unclear on the 4 Eddie inserts and what exactly completes them. I know Trooper you start Trooper multiball but I still am unclear about what "completes" this
I wish that Stern would publish a more complete set of rules for games because it's confusing to try to figure these games out at times for completing modes and advancing. I usually try to go for mode completion vs. points when I play.

TiltForums has the definitive guide: http://tiltforums.com/t/iron-maiden-pinball-rulesheet-wip/3787

#3305 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

Yeah....it's been done and it was more difficult to design than you would think. I've even put a SAM Speaker Light Kit in a SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kit. Here are some pictures of them in SPIKE 2 games.
Doug (www.SpeakerLightKits.com)[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'd like to see what the IMDN ones look like with just the inner yellow light and no square red light. I really dislike the large rectangular speaker box they use on these games.

#3306 1 year ago
Quoted from jrivelli:

I changed all my GI to warm white and then added the pinballbulbs kit for this game which was a couple spotlights and back lights strip and flipper light strip. Seemed way more affordable too than the pinstadium pricey led strips, plus no hassling when pulling PF up and down. I like it currently. The warms really did well with the current artwork imo and the couple spots weren't overkill. Local arcade/small bar had pinstadiums in their new premium and it was glaring hardcore when I first went to try and see if I wanted to buy an iron maiden.

I concur. Pinstadium style lighting works well on some games but others it destroys the ambiance.

#3311 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

It doesn't look good in my opinion (which is why I didn't sell them like this). Especially with the bars left in the speaker plate holes and the factory speaker plates making the lit holes off center in the grill area (not as noticeable in this picture since the room lighting is off).
This is not one of my light kits, but my Type 10 light kits (SPIKE 1) can be modified or creatively mounted to work in SPIKE 2 games. I could have had these listed on my website the day after Batman 66 was announced (and some users did buy my Type 10 Speaker Light Kits to do this), but instead I took the time to design a light kit to light the entire grill area.
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)[quoted image]

Hard to tell from one pic but I think I prefer that.

Thanks for posting it.

#3336 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

I think that sounds like what I already sell. So really....not much work at all. They are 2 separate light kits. A Type 11 light kit for SPIKE 2 games (that light the entire rectangle honeycomb grill area) and a Type 10 light Kit for SPIKE 1 games (that light the inner, round speaker hole). Each are controlled by separate RGB controllers with a 44 key remote. These controllers make it so you can make (by adjusting the red, green and blue levels) your own static colors that can be save to the remotes 6 DIY buttons. So you can independently make and store the colors you would like each of the (inner and outer) light kits to be.
For this setup I also sell a SPIKE 2 Replacement Speaker Plate. This makes it so my Type 10 light kits can be mounted in the small round speaker holes. This plate also has the bars removed from the speaker holes and centers the speaker holes in the honeycomb grill area. These Replacement Speaker Plates can only be used with my SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits. I do not have these listed on my website yet, but I do have them available. They work great for the "Yo Dawg" Speaker Light Kit in a Speaker Light Kit set, but they also make installation easier for my SPIKE 2 light kits if you have aftermarket speakers that have tweeters that extend past the speakers mounting area. As using them is easier than removing the bars from the factory speaker plates.
A power splitter is also needed to power both RGB controllers. I do not have the "Yo Dawg" light kit listed on my website, but I have been selling all you need for $120 shipped in the US. That is a $11.50 saving over buying the light kits and replacement plates separately + the power cable being included and free shipping (in the US). All of the parts are included with both light kits (even parts that will not be needed in this 2 in 1 setup), so if you would choose to remove the inner light kit from your SPIKE 2 game...you could always install it in any Stern game that has the older speaker panel with the round speaker holes. If you already have one of my Speaker Light Kits that was made for a Stern game with the round speaker holes....you can use that along with the SPIKE 2 light kit and the replacement speaker plates and the needed power cable for $82.50 shipped (in the US).
If anyone is interested please contact me through the e-mail link on my website.
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)[quoted image]

I get it now, so yeah if you could dim the red outer lights it look good I think. Your picture looks nice.

Probably all too much work for me though on my LE to bother with...

2 weeks later
#3460 1 year ago
Quoted from jalpert:

It's funny, people think raising the pitch makes the game harder because it feels faster. Usually, not every game, but usually raising the pitch of the game makes it easier. Raising the back decreases the amount of side to side action so the game usually won't side drain as often.

Yep. Though it certainly can increase the overall speed of the game.

i think I have mine at 6.8 or 6.9. Ball was flying off the right ramp but I added a couple of additional washers under the ramp mount on the sling and it pretty much solved it (so made the ramp itself slightly less steep). Cheap and easy and reversible, etc.

#3490 1 year ago
Quoted from Alex_swe:

This game haunts me right now..
I really want to get a Premium, but then another game have to leave the collection
I have an AFM LE, Metallica Pro and a Monsterbash LE on the way.
Only have room for 3 games.
Leaning to sell AFM, but it is an awesome game.

Met Pros are the probably the most common modern Stern in existence so little risk if you sell that one you will always be able to find another, plus plenty on location to play as well. I sold my pimped out Met Pro to get my IMDN LE, no regrets at all.

But it all comes down to which combination of games in your lineup you think you'd want at this point.

#3528 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Thats what i did and it worked. Just get it as tight as you can and let it set for 24 hours before playing it. Also make sure that no loctite leaks out onto anything plastic (like your spoon switch) because it eats plastic. You only need a drop.

Don't forget to shake the loc-tite container before you use it too.

#3547 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Was this a coy way of unveiling the update? How are they supposed to update if there's nothing released?

They used new code at another Major event last year that hadn't been released too. Seems to be a pattern, call it semi-public testing I guess.

I'm fine with it so long as they don't leave us plebs out in the cold for too long.

Here's to hoping for 12 additional awesome Maiden tunes on this one to choose from!

#3566 1 year ago

I think the scoring refinements and such actually will have a large impact on high scores and such.

Also the underlying system firmware upgrade once again totally revampts the Util-Vol settings and my LE the sounds a lot better on default settings than it ever did previously. I still had to tweak a few things but overall the sound quality has improved noticeably I'd say. If you've been concerned with poor sound quality I'd definately recommend the update.

#3569 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Looks like my game decided to change languages mid update....weird
[quoted image]

Quoted from vireland:

Yeah, happened when I updated, too.

I'm pretty sure the update code is just hardcoded to show those two languages since the language settings are lost during the update (like all settings).

"Updating..." is the English.

#3572 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

I don't recall ever seeing the spanish on an update before this one, though.

Well now all the Spanish-speaking customers can finally update their sw too!

#3574 1 year ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Well, bummer--I guess I'll have to lose my high score again, but a sound upgrade will be worth it. Care to post your new sound settings?

Still playing around with it but on my LE with Polk 10" powered sub underneath I think I'm using:

- Backbox Treble boost = +1.5db (default was +3db I think). Default sound was a little too crisp for my tastes.
- Cabinet Bass boost =Max (+11.75db?) (default was +6db I think). Trying to get more oomph out of the cab speaker and powered sub below. Even though it's cranked in most songs the bass is really clean and not boomy.

Oh and Music Attenuation = -15 and Speech Attenuation = +2.

Of course YMMV and factors such as room size, materials, etc. will have a large impact on the sound so tune to your own liking! Right out of the box default was really quite decent as well, minus the Music being way too in the background for a music pin (hence the Music Attentuation setting).

#3578 1 year ago
Quoted from RA77:

I am so happy to hear this
As I am away at the moment new code test is not possible for me.
Have to say thanks to audio team for looking and tweaking the mixing.
If the raspy mids are gone I will be stoked
IMDN for me is best game of all time.
Appreciate Keith and coders not walking away from this Gem. Top 10 always
This is a huge win against such strong competition
Thanks all.

Will be interested to hear your opinion when you get a chance to try it.

#3647 1 year ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

It shows the nuclear launch console on warnings and mushroom cloud on tilt, just like in the two minutes to midnight mode. I'm not sure why they felt it necessary to change it, other than to deal with loud on location settings, where you couldn't hear what the devil is saying anyway.

I suspect the tilt warning screen is easier to notice now in a loud environment with its bright white background.

#3654 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I'm actually not a huge fan of Stern's build quality (cabinets cracking, using the skinny leg plates, etc), but I think the issues on this game have been way overblown. I have an LE and did have to deal with the captive balls - once. Tightened the nut, barely touched the switches, done. The autofire has taken a few more minutes to work out, but absolutely nothing major. Every NIB game I've ever owned has had some adjustment. So I guess what I"m saying is, definitely get the LE! The game is just way more fun

As an LE owner and having played the Pro I wouldn't be happy with the Pro experience at this point. I'm sure if you only play the Pro you wouldn't know what you are missing though, but if you want the best experience then Prem/LE all the way!

Having said that, the LE/Prem is fine for home play with minor occassional adjustments needed but I wouldn't consider routing one I don't think due to the high liklehood that it one or more of the newton ball switches would be misadjusted at any given time.

#3660 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

No idea what you mean - there are 4 major GAMEPLAY differences between the two. The most minor is the captive ball. Then you have the moving center ramp, which changes shot flow and where balls return from. You have the sarcophagus lock which is an entirely different shot from the pro. (And moves), and you have the totally-missing-from-the-pro “can I play with madness” mode. That’s major stuff. You might say GOT had a big difference with it’s upper PF, but play it a few times, it doesn’t change the overall game really. Same with AC/DC and the lower PF. But the games are basically the same.

Plus on the Pro translight the Iron Maiden logo is placed at an angle. Not something i could live with.

#3713 1 year ago
Quoted from RatShack:

There's 4 holes on the bottom near the rear covered with mesh, you could run a cable under the mesh and out as well.

I was able to slide the wires between the mesh and the cabinet through one of the holes just used a pliers to lightly lift the edge of the mesh away from the cab while I did it. Once the wires are through the mesh lays flat and it’s totally reversible.

Just make sure you are careful when lifting the mesh not to bend it.

1 month later
#3974 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

No matter the setup, you will be able to control upper and lower flippers separately. Seeing that Robert is a seasoned tournament player, it's unlikely that he would adjust his switches. Mine are pretty tight, but I'm getting better with them with more practice. It's a very sensitive and difficult skill to master.

Adjusting your flipper switches to ensure proper 2-stage operation is a normal adjustment and is in no way considered cheating or making a game easier. Just sometimes they don’t pay that much attention at the factory. My LE had one side where the top flipper fired before the bottom out of the box...

#3980 1 year ago
Quoted from imharrow:Stern has changed their design. Instead of the classic stacked switches, they now use one expected closed switch and some expected open (basically a make or break switch).

Exactly. Threw me for a loop when I first saw it happening as well. Good news is it’s super simple to adjust these to your liking.

Quoted from Tranquilize:

That's pretty strange, considering the physics of flipper leaf switches. You have to touch the bottom before you touch the top switch. As for adjusting, I'm sure tournaments would have them tight, so Robert would likely want them that way on his machine for practice. I never said anything about it being cheating. I don't adjust mine because I want to get better at tight settings.

My point is that you can’t assume the factory adjustment is correct and it’s not cheating or unexpected to have them setup for clean two-stage operation. Trapping balls on the lower flippers while shooting the upper is already a difficult advanced skill, no need to cripple it further with poorly adjusted switches.

1 month later
#4232 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Yes. Best $100 you'll spend on Iron Maiden.

Well, after an external sub it is.

#4269 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Anybody added 2 minutes to midnight figure to replace cyborg flat plastic?
Just toying with the idea. Neca figure. 8 inches. [quoted image]

I never used that one but used plenty of the others. I stuck with the more expensive figures that have sculpted clothing (and not cloth).

See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/too-many-eddies#post-4819711 .

1 week later
#4345 1 year ago
Quoted from newtoit:

I just got a premium. What should i add. Pinstadium? Shaker? Anything else, maybe some protection?

External sub is an awesome add for this game also!

1 week later
#4400 1 year ago
Quoted from Rat:

I'm considering buying an IM Prem, there is a long thread about code issues, is everyone here generally happy with the code as it is or do you find the bugs annoying and code lacking polish?
Also can you adjust the music volume and sound effects volume independently? Was thinking if I got tired of the music I could make it more a of background sound.

You can adjust the music vs speech separately which I’ve used to bring the music more present in the mix. Crank it up!

2 months later
#4852 11 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

premium owners - I like the red lights that stern put and trying to replicate on pro. I got the slings and inlanes. I think there is one mid right. Are there are red bulbs in the back section of the game or just the five I mentioned?

Too funny. I went through all the effort swap those fugly red bulbs out for warm white ones. Much better, doesn't wash out the PF and plastics colors around them and is still plenty "dark" for Fear of the Dark mode.

Each to their own...

#4871 11 months ago
Quoted from thewool:

I tried some warms in the slings instead of the reds and the art looked worse. Kind of yellowed out. What bulbs did you specifically use?

I too went with sunlight under the slings and ball guides and ww under the yellow plastics on the side.

#4872 11 months ago
Quoted from bigduke6:

I know guys have had trouble but other than plunger not making it around once in a while mines been bullitt proof.[quoted image][quoted image]

Everytime I see your translight I’m blown away by how nice it looks. Less cartoony Eddie and a pretty lady, what more could you want?

If I didn’t have an LE I'd be begging you to get me one.

#4901 10 months ago
Quoted from Gattiman:

Has anyone played an LE vs Premium and found the upgraded sound system to be a big improvement? I played the pro at a local bar and loved it. Definitely buying it in October/november (in the middle of moving houses right now) but was disappointed with the punch in the speakers. However I have no way of knowing if it was just turned down or the bar I was in drowning it out. Unfortunately in Austin there aren’t any major places to properly try out pinball machines for the home.

I have the LE, which has the larger/better speakers vs the Prem and the Pro I believe. I have it hooked to an external powered sub (Polk 10") and absolutely no complaints about the sound. This thing cranks!

3 weeks later
#5048 10 months ago
Quoted from mjruser:

Hi All,
I was looking for score cards and didn't find quite what I was looking for. So opened photoshop and downloaded the Metal Lord font, messed around with effects for longer than I care to admit. Have photoshop...not an expert. Long story short here's the first batch of beta 1 cards. Still working on making them easier to read. I need to do a lot of clean up on the PSD but once I'm done I'll upload that as well so maybe you don't have to start from scratch.
I'm pretty good at introducing typos, so let me know if you see any mistakes. Print @140mm width.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for posting these they are friggin' awesome!

4 months later
#5796 5 months ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

In the past month I picked up both an Iron Maiden Pro and Jurassic Park Premium. I’ve spent a fair amount of time with both now and while they are both amazing games, I have to say I’m having more fun playing the IM. This really surprised me, and I’m trying to figure out why it is.
First of all, I’m not a very good player and JP is pretty brutal when you are missing shots. IM doesn’t seem to have as many tight shots as JP. I’ve gotten much better at hitting the left ramp on IM but the right ramp and both of the half loop ramps on JP still give me fits.
Secondly, I really love the sound package on IM. I am a big Maiden fan but it is more than that. The call outs are just head and shoulders above JP.
I think I also like the variety of modes on IM vs the paddock repetition on JP. There is lots more than that I know (control rooms, CHAOS, TRex, Raptor, pteranodon) but it still feels repetitive, likely because of my mediocre skills and not getting very deep into the game.
Anybody else feel the same way? I fully expect to love JP more as I get better at it, but as of right now I am more inclined to hit the start button on IM than JP.

I concur with all of the above.

JP2 has great shots and is fun enough to shoot, but the art package and callouts are not as well done or impactful/passionate as IMDN. IMDN is the complete package, JP2 is just a fun pinball.

Personally, I find the JP2 callouts grating and repetative after awhile.

1 week later
#5819 4 months ago
Quoted from roar:

I’d say switch issue...Replace the switches in the lock mech with the recommended ones with the little rollers on them. Doug has them at PlayerOne. Start there.

This! This mech is basically a shallow ball trough and really needs the roller-switches for reliability.

#5842 4 months ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Never gets old watching Keith run in Fear of the Dark mode

This came up on my game a couple days ago. I haven't seen it in ages (I'm on 1.06 code), was so cool.

1 week later
#5888 4 months ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Stern has been having a ton of these fail recently. NIB games fail after a couple hundred plays.

And by "recently" it's been this way for years and years. I keep a supply of replacement coil stops from Pinball Life so I'm ready to swap out the stops on any newer Stern I pickup.

3 weeks later
#5977 3 months ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

Got it setup today before work. Man this game is even more beautiful in person, Zombie killed it! I'm going to have to bring a game downstairs to keep it company though. I think TNA will look nice beside her
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

My LE looked great next to my TNA! Now I have a nice TRON in between them, one big happy family.

#5994 3 months ago
Quoted from Angel:

They definitly look like Stranger Things LE legs. I'm not sure if I should keep them...or request the standard black legs from the distributor, any thoughts? They sort of look unique on the machine...I'm still kinda unsure although.

Those look terrible on that game! Request the black ones.

#6044 3 months ago
Quoted from Vino:

Initially had a pro, sold, coming back for a premium. The pf issues were not yet an issue but haven’t kept up if it has impacted IMDN at all.
Am I good buying a huo local or newer?
Any help appreciated - pm fine.
Thanks all.

My LE has slight pooling around the posts and a few small chips on some of them too. I've placed clear washers under these areas and you can't see it at all anymore. If this concerns you I'd recommend looking for a lightly used prem so you can inspect the playfield yourself before purchase.

#6052 3 months ago
Quoted from RPZ:

Hi Guys, having some issues with the back box speakers, there is lots of crackling noises, and wondering what volume settings everyone is using here and results?
I played around with settings to get better bass sound from sub, which I’m now happy with, but the back box speakers sound pretty bad.
I have an LE.

You are probably pushing too much bass through the backbox speakers. Does it happen at the beginning of Hallowed Be Thy Name?

I also have an LE and have the sound dialed in nicely (I'm also using a Polk 10" powered sub for lowend bass). I'll have a look and post my audio settings here in a bit for you to try on your game to see if it helps.

#6056 3 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

You are probably pushing too much bass through the backbox speakers. Does it happen at the beginning of Hallowed Be Thy Name?
I also have an LE and have the sound dialed in nicely (I'm also using a Polk 10" powered sub for lowend bass). I'll have a look and post my audio settings here in a bit for you to try on your game to see if it helps.

Here are my settings:


Master Vol: 21
Backbox Bass Gain: +3.75 DB
Backbox Treble Gain: +1.125 DB
Cabinet Bass Gain: +7.5 DB
Cabinet Treble Gain: 0 DB

Speech Attenuation: 5
Music Attenuation: -17

These just make the music louder/more present vs the callouts, personal preference.

As I noted before, I also have a powered 10" Polk subwoofer under the game that really helps to fill out the lowend bass.

#6063 3 months ago
Quoted from JonCBrand:

maybe the left right statement was confusing. my game has half push on L or Rbutton activates coresponding upper flipper full push in is lower flipper and upper. going to do some investigation I thought it was backward. either leafs out of adjustment or assembled wrong when last owner put in glow buttons

My NIB LE came that way too. Simple leaf adjustments corrected it so the lower fires first, then the upper.

3 weeks later
#6235 79 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I’m having issues with the ball falling off the left wireform near the bottom after the last little turn. Anyone else have this or have ideas what to use to block that?

You can add a washer (or 2) between the post and the wireform loop where the ramp is secured at the bottom. This will slightly raise the level of the bottom of the ramp and make it less steep overall, which can keep the ball from flying off.

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