(Topic ID: 213089)

Up the Irons - Stern Iron Maiden Owners and True Fans Club!

By AlexSMendes

1 year ago

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  • 5,745 posts
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  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by Kawydud
  • Topic is favorited by 237 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #124 Features matrix between pro, premium, and LE Posted by cletus (1 year ago)

Post #1039 Link to Iron Maiden Rules provides by Stern Posted by chuckcasey (1 year ago)

Post #2390 Ordering Eddie LE/Prem parts for a Pro (part numbers included) Posted by Mudflaps (1 year ago)

Post #2584 Part numbers for the components of the free ball trap kit from Stern. Posted by mollyspub (1 year ago)

Post #3081 Setting to change so Keith shows up in Iron Maiden more Posted by Who-Dey (11 months ago)

Post #4413 Loops Optos not registering the ball - mod fix Posted by f3honda4me (7 months ago)

Post #5013 Iron Maiden Rules Summary Posted by djreddog (4 months ago)

Post #5363 Loop speed set screw location picture Posted by djreddog (78 days ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#732 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

I like the speaker lights where did you buy?


I PM'd mummite and he said he did have to remove the black nylon spacers that go between the speakers and the color rings in the LE when installing the Speaker Light Kit. These spacers are put there from the factory to give the speaker's tweeters room so they do not press against the back of the speaker panel's honeycomb grills.

With the speaker light kit installed....this adds the 1/2" of space that the 1/2" black nylon spacers were originally making and gives the tweeters the same amount of space so they are not pressing into the back of the honeycomb grills.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

EDIT: Iron Maiden LE is now added to the website with an explanation of the additional install requirements.

Iron Maiden LE SP (resized).jpg

#806 1 year ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Duggie, is that diagram for real! Lol

Yeah...straight from the LE manual. If you look closely you might notice they only have 7 spacers (14) listed in the diagram instead of the 8 that it should be, but to make up for it they have 3 speakers (13) listed instead of the 2 that are actually in the game.

1 week later
#1004 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Looks great. Where did you get speaker lights?


Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

7 months later
#3300 11 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Edit. Couldn't sleep. Quite fan installed
Need to figure out a different way to do the speaker lights than the Metallica Sam layout. Shouldnt be too difficult.
The more I'm looking at it I dont think this game needs any speaker lights with that big screen. If anyone has added speaker lights, could you please post some pics? I was thinking about lining the rectangles, not the actual speakers themselves like I did with Metallica

Yeah....it's been done and it was more difficult to design than you would think. I've even put a SAM Speaker Light Kit in a SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kit. Here are some pictures of them in SPIKE 2 games.

Doug (www.SpeakerLightKits.com)

Customer submitted (resized).jpgSPIKE 2 (resized).jpgYo Dawg (resized).JPG
#3309 11 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I'd like to see what the IMDN ones look like with just the inner yellow light and no square red light. I really dislike the large rectangular speaker box they use on these games.

It doesn't look good in my opinion (which is why I didn't sell them like this). Especially with the bars left in the speaker plate holes and the factory speaker plates making the lit holes off center in the grill area (not as noticeable in this picture since the room lighting is off).

This is not one of my light kits, but my Type 10 light kits (SPIKE 1) can be modified or creatively mounted to work in SPIKE 2 games. I could have had these listed on my website the day after Batman 66 was announced (and some users did buy my Type 10 Speaker Light Kits to do this), but instead I took the time to design a light kit to light the entire grill area.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Not My SLK (resized).jpg
#3327 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Two color (one lighter shade for the circle, and a slightly darker shade for the square) might look awesome. It'd be more work to make and a little more to install, but it should look good.

I think that sounds like what I already sell. So really....not much work at all. They are 2 separate light kits. A Type 11 light kit for SPIKE 2 games (that light the entire rectangle honeycomb grill area) and a Type 10 light Kit for SPIKE 1 games (that light the inner, round speaker hole). Each are controlled by separate RGB controllers with a 44 key remote. These controllers make it so you can make (by adjusting the red, green and blue levels) your own static colors that can be save to the remotes 6 DIY buttons. So you can independently make and store the colors you would like each of the (inner and outer) light kits to be.

For this setup I also sell a SPIKE 2 Replacement Speaker Plate. This makes it so my Type 10 light kits can be mounted in the small round speaker holes. This plate also has the bars removed from the speaker holes and centers the speaker holes in the honeycomb grill area. These Replacement Speaker Plates can only be used with my SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits. I do not have these listed on my website yet, but I do have them available. They work great for the "Yo Dawg" Speaker Light Kit in a Speaker Light Kit set, but they also make installation easier for my SPIKE 2 light kits if you have aftermarket speakers that have tweeters that extend past the speakers mounting area. As using them is easier than removing the bars from the factory speaker plates.

A power splitter is also needed to power both RGB controllers. I do not have the "Yo Dawg" light kit listed on my website, but I have been selling all you need for $120 shipped in the US. That is a $11.50 saving over buying the light kits and replacement plates separately + the power cable being included and free shipping (in the US). All of the parts are included with both light kits (even parts that will not be needed in this 2 in 1 setup), so if you would choose to remove the inner light kit from your SPIKE 2 game...you could always install it in any Stern game that has the older speaker panel with the round speaker holes. If you already have one of my Speaker Light Kits that was made for a Stern game with the round speaker holes....you can use that along with the SPIKE 2 light kit and the replacement speaker plates and the needed power cable for $82.50 shipped (in the US).

If anyone is interested please contact me through the e-mail link on my website.


Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

IMG_3691 (resized).JPG
#3341 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

If you offered variable post locations (maybe two sets of holes and the user picks which set to install the threaded posts in?) for your replacement speaker plates that would allow either the stock speakers or the larger speakers like on the LE, that would make it more attractive. I know I spent about $90 getting all the LE parts to install larger speakers. Stern=highway robbery.
Also, have you thought about angling the frame inward about 30 degrees so the LEDs are pointing more inward toward the speaker? That should reduce glare on the glass and if you put a 1/4=1/2" bezel on it, even reduce the LEDs peeking out from side angles.

I was wondering if Stern would even sell the speaker plates for the larger speakers that some LE games have. If they did, I didn't expect they would be too much. I got the standard speaker plates from them for $13ish each. Of course, as I said, I'm a bit surprised they even sell the LE plates separately. I'm sure they keep a tighter stock on them and that may cause them to charge a more premium price for them.

I see what you are saying about my Replacement Speaker Plates, but I don't see how that would be possible. So you have the plate and 8 speaker mounting holes in it. 4 inner holes so you could add the mounting posts for the 4" speakers and 4 outer holes so you could add the mounting posts for the 5" speaker.

So how big is the actual speaker hole in the plate? If you make it the size for the 5" speaker.....that hole for the speaker would cut out the 4 inner mounting holes....so that takes mounting the 4" speakers off the table unless you added mounting tabs jutting inward in the speaker hole to mount the smaller 4" speaker and even then...the smaller speaker would have a gap floating around it from the bigger speaker hole. If you had a speaker hole in it made for 4" speakers, that would work ok as far as just getting either size mounted, but do you think many people would want to pay to upgrade to a 5" speaker that sits behind a speaker hole made for a 4" speaker?

In any case....making plates to add bigger speakers to ones game is not my business. I did not have these made just to have something else to sell or to make money on them. I simply designed my SPIKE 2 Replacement Speaker Plates so it would make installing my SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits easier for people that have upgraded speakers. Using the factory speaker plates with my light kits can still be done with upgraded speakers, but a person would probably have to cut the bars in the speaker holes out of the factory speaker plates to get things to all work together. I decided to make my SPIKE 2 Replacement Speaker Plates for the folks that didn't want to go to the trouble of cutting those bars out. While I was doing it I decided to also improve some things. I made each plate have 4 speaker mounting points instead of 2 like the factory speaker plates have. I also moved the speaker hole so it was centered in the honeycomb grill area. Again, I didn't make these to have another product to sell. I had them made to make my existing product (Speaker Light Kits) a more attractive, easy to install and versatile product.

As for my SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kit design...I can tell you very little was not considered or tried. As for angling the frame walls....a user can spring the frame walls out as much as they want or have room for. Though I don't think that would help with anything and would probably make the top of the lit area look strange, as it could be bent to be almost parallel with the back of the speaker panel. It would also probably throw a lot of the speaker light on the bottom of the translite from the back side. As far as angling the light frame walls out....there is very little room to do that on the bottom or outer sides You have all the room in the world to do that at the top and there is no way to do that at all on the inner wall (as it is what hold the LCD in place). My main concerns on the design were trying to make each side look as uniform as possible (same distance from the honeycomb edge), getting the light frame walls as far in from the honeycomb area as possible and to allow as much surface area on the mounting side of the frame as possible, without being visible in the honeycomb grill area.

My main concern was the visibility of the inner light strip. This inner wall of the frame is RIGHT AGAINST the LCD screen and what holds the LCD in place. So there is literally no place to go with this one. There is no way to get that inner frame farther inward away from the honeycomb grill edge. My first idea was actually to make a set of brackets just to hold the LCD screen in and then add a light frame over that...I then realized that would just make that inner wall jut out in the honeycomb area even more and the best way to keep that inner wall in, as much as possible, was to make that be what holds the LCD screen in place. Having said that...other things can be done if the inner wall is to visible to some users. I make sure to put the light strip in the light frames so there is a cut area on the light strip in the bottom inner corner. That means a user can actually snip the light strip there to deactivate the inner light strip wall. I tried some tests like this and I honestly didn't like only 3 sides being lit, but I did keep the light strip placement like that so a person could snip and remove that inner light strip if they would choose to. You can also put a strip of electrical tape over the inner light strip or even over the inner most honeycomb column (on the inside of outside of the panel).

The reason I wanted more surface area on the bottom, mounting side of the frame is mainly so there is more surface area to hold the foam in place if a user decides to keep the speaker foam in there. I also knew the frame had to be reasonably stable as it is what holds the LCD screen in place. Making the frame super narrow would make it a bit too flimsy. I also realized in early testing that if the frame went into the honeycomb area...it would darken up the honeycomb and not look right, as I expect a bezel might do. SEE ATTACHMENT on the right side

So I made the plate as big as possible on it's mounting side, without being viable in the honeycombs area (no matter how it is slid on it's mounting slots) and I also made the walls that hold the light strips as far away from the honeycomb area as they could be, while trying to keep the bottom, top and outer walls a uniform distance from the honeycomb area. From a players perspective, seeing the bare led bulbs isn't an issue. If you decide to leave the factory foam in that usually defuses the light quite a bit and the light kits can be dimmed with the included remote. A bent plastic glare guard can also do wonders.

SPIKE2 left test (resized).JPG
5 months later
#4796 5 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

I wonder why Iron Maiden doesn't have a Midnight Madness mode...?

You guys really want a MIDNIGHT madness mode on Iron Maiden.....???

doomsday-clock-ap-jrl-180125_12x5_992 (resized).jpg
#4837 5 months ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

Another mod question. Has anybody installed the backboard lighting kit from Cointaker? I have the LED’s in place and the cord end doesn’t plug into anything on the board behind the speaker panel. See pictures below, but the male end of the cord from the LED strip doesn’t match any connector on that board. [quoted image][quoted image]

I expecting that Cointaker may have an adapter for you, but yes that is a connection that is mainly used on SAM and WhiteStar system games....though Pinball Life does also include that connection type on their SPIKE and SPIKE 2 accessory power supply boards:


#4888 4 months ago
Quoted from mjruser:

Hey All,
Playing around with PBBrowser with IM. I noticed that the songs are duplicated in many cases. When importing do I need to import over both of them or will one do it? Wanted to add a bit of AC/DC, Aerosmith and Metallica perhaps to shake things up for my wonderful wife. Who's not a metal head
Mike[quoted image]

I haven't used pinball browser for a bit, but it used to be so if you changed the the proper clip (the longest one) it would change all of the other instances of that song also. Almost like it is using the full length (or longest) clip you are adding to grab and make all of the others.

Things may have changed, but that is how it used to work on SAM games.

#4890 4 months ago
Quoted from mjruser:

Thanks for the reply. They are the same length so I'm guessing updating one will do the other, but I was hoping to get a confirmation.

Understandable. It seemed on the Metallica they would have one instance of it being longer than the rest and that being the one that you would replace and the others of that song were usually shorter clips. With multiple instances of the same song being the same length (like your picture), it may not work that way anymore.

Having said that, I would recommend just trying things out....tinker around, it's not like you are going to mess up the code and not be able to find a clean copy of it anywhere. Replace the first full instance of the song and then see if that does anything to the 2nd one listed. You should be able to see what does what before dumping it on your game (unless things have drastically changed in Pinball Browser since I have messed with it). Risk free tinkering is a great way of learning.

1 month later
#5096 3 months ago
Quoted from rai:

press and hold the start button should remove all the current games started but will start a new game. I don't know if there is a way to go back to attract mode.
Also this is a setting in the menu that may be turned off if you don't like to restart games.

I believe they just added that feature in the new Game of Thrones code. You hold the left flipper button and the start button and it will end the game and go back to attract mode. That is the only game I have heard of adding it, but I expect it will be added to other games eventually.

I also believe this is a feature that can be enabled or disabled in the options menu.

It's a nice and simple option....now they just need to make it so setting a game in tournament mode makes it so the scores are always shown on the screen after a game. A score keeper doesn't care who is the "whoopdie doo champ" when they are trying to record scores.

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