Joined today!!! Picked up my Premium.
What a blast! Best fun playing in a long time.
I obviously am not applying any gameplay strategy yet, and just bashing around and exploring.

It does, however have the feeling that it rewards quite well for just keeping the ball alive. Some machines you bash around for ages for no points, but second game ever I pulled 200m on the first ball, just staying alive. I know that’s not mega points, but it knocked all factory scores but GC off, and I don’t think I did anything too outrageously lucky. It just seems to give you a break if you have some ball skills.

And just as a data point..all worked perfectly out of the box. Not a single adjustment required.
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Spotlights in..
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Spotlights are super easy to put in. Took me about ten minutes

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Just made from stuff on hand. I make a lot of stuff like this. It’s just wires, connectors and a step down converter.

All what necessary? Wires and a $2 converter to take 12v down to 6.3v? Yes, there is a reason, because I don’t go anywhere near anything connected to a node board. That backbox header there is a robust, constant 12v designed for offtake. Plug into that and you have zero risk of blowing a node board.
Connect alligator clips to a GI socket if you like, but as long as node boards are $300 and blow if you look at them sideways I’m not going anywhere near anything that might be connected to them.

And as a matter of general design quality, if there is a proper connection to use, then using it is preferable.

I’ve actually got a third installed up a bit higher, on top of the orb shot. Running off that 12v offtake you could keep piling on heaps of lighting. I just treat the wire harness as a rail and keep pressing IDC connectors in where I need them.
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Sorry, they're not $2, they're 50 cents.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-pcs-Ultra-Small-Size-DC-DC-Step-Down-Power-Supply-Module-3A-Adjustable-Buck-Converter/32261885063.html

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They’re not controlled yet. But you know me..won’t be long.

These are 6.3v bulbs. Significant difference in brightness between 5v and 6.3V. Don't really want to run them at 5v. Big part of the reason Spike games are generally on the dim side compared to SAM is the standard old 6.3v bulbs being driven at 5v.

Spotlights are now controlled. Still isolated from the machine. I use a factory GI bulb to trigger an optocoupler to turn on my original circuit.

Just as a data point, my premium cabinet speaker is scratchy as hell as well.

I can make you some up for just cost of shipping. Including the control hookup. PM me.

How much value is there in leaving the upper left flipper down when making the loop shot with the upper right? I recall hearing or reading that you were rewarded for making the tighter shot. True? What's the result?