Woo, premium expected to arrive by Friday! I'm hoping it's as good as the hype I've been reading on the forums

Let's hope ABF follows through with safe transport. Had recently purchased several TV's for work and good chunk were damaged.

Bought from pinballs.com. I think they held their November stock till after the new year to better justify the price. was 300 over current MSRP pricing...considering not sure if/when they'll make more and its close to what I'd pay NIB anyway later, its fine

Prem in the house! Now to skim the cooler of hundred of pages here for adjustments. Out of the box had to adjust the captive ball since it was triggering just be using the flippers through vibration. Think it's good for now on that part, need to to test those shots to make sure they're registering properly.

Next thing need to figure out the end of the wire form from the right ramp. If it has through speed it'll jump the end where it's supposed to stop, hit the glass and usually to the bottom of the playfield drain.

Lastly it's minor maybe... But the flipper area is pretty dark during normal gameplay. Have problems at times seeing or aiming the shots.

Blast though so far

Yeah, recent production with IC and everything. Crossmembers...so I do see weld points (what it looks like to me) on both wireforms that look like that would be hitting it and giving it air. I'll see if I can take slowmo vid

Great tips! target backing foam...I'm not sure what that entails if you might have a photo?

Cool. I'll see what type of foam I have laying around. Was mostly trying to imagine how the foam is attached to that corner on the wire. If I find some foam i'll try it a few different ways to make sure it doesnt stop the ball from finishing its path

Lunch break and had time to take off the glass.... Think I found the culprit. It's hitting the top of that screw post as I manually run the ball, giving it a subtle kick upwards. Will see if I can file that down

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yeah.....that was much easier and resolved the thread. should be fixed, will try tonight when i can step away from work....thanks! not sure why i didnt notice that space in the mount

Yeah, I'm seeing that there's only one washer on the right, compared to the two on the left

Grumble grumble grumble. Three times today I take a short break from work/projects and each game I get the ball stuck here. End up just turning it off and going back to work. Will need to come up with or find a decent solution

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Since you're buying aprons generically its not going to come with the decals since you're not getting a game specific one. You need to peal them from the original apron and move them over to the new one.

So as I'm playing this and learning the game, there's one thing that's driving me a little nuts. The right ramp. It feels like it's not registering any of those shots even though when I do the switch test it works perfectly there running either my fingers or ball through the sensor. Won't qualify Eddie letters or shots in the modes

Ok, adding more data as I've been getting some assistance in troubleshooting to narrow things down. That right ramp.... with glass off this is what I'm seeing:

1. In general gameplay, even when it's arrow indicator is lit white to progress spelling EDDIE, it doesnt add to the spelling but I do get 330 points as it passes the opto sensor.

2. Same with power ramps. Left ramp will add to the power ramp counter on the screen, but not the right ramp. Still get the 330 points as it passes that opt, and a separate point added when landing on the inlane switch.

3. Manually run the ball back and forth that sensor and keep getting those 330 points...so its triggering. In the switch test same thing, passes on the opto will trigger correctly.

4. I've done these two things to see if its code related. At first updated from 1.09 to 1.10, then went ahead and formatted the whole thing to a fresh 1.10 image. Nothing on either.

I'm going to try a couple more things and summarize here later today and in the issues thread.

Yeah, get what you mean. So the sensor indicator is behaving as you describe it. Solid red normally, and off when the ball passes through. Every other white arrow shot works but that one. And in a mode that ramp only gives me points and won't progress the mode. Chipp provided some more troubleshooting advice that I'll be going down there list later today and see what happens

Ok, so I should have paid attention to the labels on the switch test. All I cared about initially was that nothing was triggering in it's own and that I did get an identified activation running something past that opto... So.... As I was recording video for reference to post I reread the label on the screen and "orbit detect opto" was what was being triggered on that ramp. And guess what was being registered when I ran a ball up the orbit manually...."right ramp opto".

The molex for both were next to each other underneath so it was a quick swap and quick fix.

While my wife still enjoys the shots on AIQ more, it does seem like she's having more fun with IMDN (and she doesnt really care much for the band either). The callouts+music really gives this a zesty experience.

I'm almost done fine tuning and correct quirks. Shooter spring might need to be replaced with a stronger one, as the manual plunges have soo much trouble making the full orbit. And some random LEDs seem to be flickering, so need to check the wires theres. Overall still, really digging this game.

I guess I dont "need it"...just feels incomplete that I dont have the option to control the plunge. auto plunge 100% makes it all the way around the orbit, but full manual plunge will 1 in 5 make the orbit, 2 in 5 go up maybe halfway around, and the last 2 will hit the post right above the stand up target thats in the center as the ball exits the shooter lane.

My LED issue seems to be from a loose socket. Sucks it's the first one next to the flipper so it's under that assembly. I wiggled it from up top to get it to stay on for now, but will need to remove the flipper mechanism to reach it later for a permanent fix

Pretty much all that. Lots of new people into the hobby (home ownership specifically, and me included) with their run end of last year seeming it "might" be it for a while. Guess depends on continued demand + license rights. I ended up paying slightly above 2022 NIB price for a Nov 2021 build (about 300 over), which considering if I wanted a premium it seems most people are selling their used ones for at least 1k more than what I paid for, so I'll deal with it. If I had gotten into pins a few months earlier, might have put in a deposit much earlier and maybe saved 1.3k, but oh well. is what it is. If the case ever comes up that I need or want to sell it, should at least come out even.

Really digging the game more and more. Think after spending the time fixing the light issues I'll go ahead and upgrade the audio system before jumping in on things like side blades/etc.

Yeah, thats what I was thinking. All the other sockets seem to be nicely fixed in place but that one is super loosey goosey. Feels like it might be on the verge of snapping off of whatever is holding it.

if they do another run in 2023 it should dip. Least for this year looks like it wont happen unless Stern gets super ahead of everything else and still have license+parts to do so. With every new license it seems they get more people in. If it wasnt for AIQ I prob would have delayed my hobby entry another year or so. Then I've seen people get in b/c of GZ, Rush, and even with Halloween (a person or two I know from the movie poster community jumped in kinda b/c of the artist since thats his main audience...movie posters/art)

Finally looked closely to the shooter rod and what felt like weak hits to the ball was mostly due to off centered rod. The tip hits it to the side significantly enough where it makes pretty bad contact. Going to mess with adjusting that later in the week when I get time.

Might be the rod in my case. I'll rotate it and see the tip shift it's location. Will take it out of the housing and roll it on a table to see how significant the curvature is

Stock rod. Looking a little wobbly

Curious on what this would entail. I just tried a couple of hour ago loosening the screws to see if there was any give towards center and really couldnt budge it much more than what it already was.

Also, dam those LEDs under the flipper mechanism. Along with the rod took that off to see how it looked like and didnt expect for the bulb contacts to be stapled unto the playfield and then soldered on. That housing at the base did seem a little wonky but it "looked" fine when I powered it on w/o any issues. But when back in game, the flipper coil vibration causes it to flicker. will get back down there when I have more patience.

While i was there should have tried a different bulb. But the soldering thing is where I need the patience for. I'm going to be replacing the speakers this weekend so will be a good opportunity with the wire soldering anyway while i'm at it

Looks crooked on yours

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Prob the rod going into the bracket has enough friction to not freely spin at that angle. You can force it through from a shot, but on the way back down theres not enough freedom to lift out of the wayl

Meh, so had left the normal plunger rod alone for the inconsistent shots into the pf, but now the auto plunger is throwing the ball into a weird trajectory. It'll shoot it high enough out of the lane where it'll hit the tip of that upper left flipper, or at a weird angle where it'll hit the guide rail leading up but bounce backwards away from the orbit instead.

Little things that are annoying to figure out what to adjust, but will see if it's a simple tweak

Felt pretty smooth. Might still file it just in case. If not, I have these three adjustments in mind once I get some time again:

1. Screw loosened at the top part of the guide and the path moved/bent out of place?

2. That gate on the exit might have shifted and as the ball pass through it, might shift trajectory if that gate is not perpendicular to the exit path

3. Auto plunger shifted and sending the call in awkward path from the get go. This one still looks centered, so not likely but jotting ideas.

This is what it looks like. 1st plunge looked ok, but the following two are more commonly what we see.

Its all auto plunger. The manual plunger behaves differently but thats b/c the tip is off centered, so not focusing on that.

And yeah, had gone through a few hundred posts referencing auto plunger. good chunk are low trajectory exits into the post and the rest are what I'm experiencing. I'm just jotting down notes of what I see and suspect, along with what I've read, to see if theres anything I might have missed on things to look for

So far from my notes of possibilities and that stuff suggested checked the prongs and the edge of the exit. Prongs were fine and not rubbing against the side rail.... Also centered. The sleeves of the plunger coils felt smooth as well. The edge of the exit felt fine but ran it with a file for a bit. All that and still trajectory towards the tip of the upper left. Still have a couple more things to try later when I can disassemble a bit more.

At the moment we're just holding the flipper up when the auto plunge activates, but as more time passes it seems to be going higher and higher where even the clearance won't matter. It hits the wall of the orbit instead of flowing with it if it goes high enough.

Yeah, was leaving the guide adjustment for last since it requires removing plastics and such to get to the screw. Having 5-10 minutes free at a time sucks =(

I mean....i see you posted a few months back when I did my search the exact same question with all the previous posts already there with the answers =)

And I'm not ignoring. I'm going down the list from easiest to fix to the one that takes more time. I have a broken doggo that I can only take my eyes off a few moments at a time.

From an amateur perspective:

IMDN - hardest. Best "feel" of a game with the music + call-out integrations. I find 1/2 the shots a pain to hit, but the banter helps keeping coming back for more. Don't care much for the lady's quips, but Satan's is on point

AIQ - funnest to shoot. A couple of hard shots (CM 360 shot and Hawkeye mini loop), but you're not forced to rely on it. So many approaches to help progress/compete the modes. Wish the AV assets would match the shooting masterpiece.

GZ - best balance. First few days of playing I didn't care much for the gameplay... And kept draining super easy on the outlanes. Then more and more clicked, along with all those awesome updates to the code, where it's becoming my favorite of the three. Couple of difficult shots, but not married to them throughout the game like IMDN. Lots of other options to shoot at.

Haven't played JP enough. Only game in town is loud enough where we can't take in any of the AV assets. Feels easier than IMDN, but harder than AIQ. Do have one on order. Kinda late on the preorder so let's hope they continue making them next year (still need to save money anyway)

Thanks for asking! hah...gave up for now. went through the whole list of stuff mentioned in the posts and things worked amazingly...for an hour or two. Then magically the issue came back. So weird having it "resolved" for such a short period of time. Not going to worry about it till later in April or something. Requested some lane protectors (well the set really) from Cliffy. Once I get those in will check for adjustments.

clean/wax i did do. The lane protector was something I was looking at (the clear plastic) but since I was getting the metal protectors from Cliffy for a couple of games, will see if that does it. Just weird it being a drastic change to where it worked flawlessly for such a short time.

Not sure what speaker they're using, since it has their label. But I put kickers first for backbox, then afterwards amp+cab speaker upgrade. Each bump in parts made a progressively better experience. Right now it sounds awesome with all the stuff, but still need to tweak settings a bit more. Some if the deep bass from music and effects are a bit distorted. Depends on what you're not liking, could be software adjustments.

I had tried spotlights on the slings and worked amazing at first. Until each one got decapitated by airballs.

Think my issue is the mode inserts. I'll finish making the color gel brackets sometime soon. What I'm experiencing with stock lighting in an unlit room is a problem keeping track of the ball as it travels around the flippers. Initially I thought the game was too dark, but as I just played it, it looks like the white light from the insert kinda shines in a bleed/glare where the surrounding area appears too dark. If I turn on a single room light, even if kinda dim, issue goes away.

Random question, anyone have this kit laying around for sale?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=803-5000-N6

I always forget to check ebay. Snap 50 bucks over. Just got a reply that there might be restocks in the coming month(s), so might wait. Thanks!

Love that desert weathering on your armor. I just need an extra month or so to see if the game is a long-term keep with my wife before putting heavy changes/mods to it that are more "permanent".

Getting cliffy's stuff i think later this week, so will get to mess with the plunge stuff after putting a smooth shooter lane. I'm going to guess a good chunk of my issue is the guide on the wood/topcoat is gotten uneven enough to not start travel correctly. I did lower the eject and everything, but do see weathering down of it.

wooo! seems it was the shooter lane that had been getting slightly worn that was causing my auto-plungers (then eventually manual as well) to be all jacked up. Put in the shooter lane metal protector and got about 5 games in . went from 0 to 100% on all auto-plunges. Had put in a request for the protectors a month ago, so wasnt really messing around with it much past few weeks.

Now to fix the lamp sockets on the right return ball guide. Thats going to require a bit more testing to see where the issue is since both bulbs flicker and respond to my flipper presses (from the vibrations).

Had tried that without any improvement. Removed, re seated, tightened just enough without overdoing the torque.

Will give that a shot. Odd it's two of them side by side, so if that doesn't fix it going to see where the wiring leads to

Mine doesn't help. Think they updated the art to not reach those holes

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Think it's pooling the more I look at it. The mylar edge is coming from the other issue direction. It's in the middle of the bumper area and stops before reaching those pops and rubbers

Oh! Thought it was yours. So there's no mylar there. Least shouldn't be. What looks clear-ish might be the top coat over the art/wood. Someone with earlier models will have to chime in on how there's looks. The later runs didn't have the artwork extended to those posts

Oh man... Millions of times.... Easy fix. I had taken apart the the flipper assembly to reach the sockets. And they're stapled to the pf with solder covering the staples unto the wood. Not an easy swap to change the socket. And it's two of them responding the same even after swapping bulbs, which I had already tried.

I'm waiting on the apron plastic art, since my IMDN came with the IC, to move it to the coin door.

Yes, came on the apron already, moving/mounting it to the coin door once I get the replacement art to put there.

nice! Did that on my AIQ, since that IC was added on later and not pre-included. Though on the IMDN, its having issues with the light on the reader. Works fine up above, but not sure how much of an issue it'll be scanning at lower light. Been reading mixed things

Light not working. still scans since theres enough visibility up top

oh, its not that the light would work vertically. Just that it works fine with ambient light higher up. Think for some folks lower down the cab its a much darker area so with a broken QR light its more difficult to catch a scan

This is what used to be on there. Games starting with GZ now have the IC QR in its place and they dont include this plastic with NIB purchases.

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If its at the release into the lock (or treasure collection) where it doesnt find out theres a ball there, theres a switch called "load ramp". In diags screen, open the door first if its not already open, and throw a ball into it. It should easily trigger it if it works.

Dont know if it looks for a requirement of another trigger first, but I'd check that those switches work first in diags. I've only had it stuck there once (until ball search) but that was code related. I got it in there in the middle of some other trigger award.

Just ordered this gold t-molding and will see about getting some powder coating that can maybe closely match it. Havent seen this gold used on a Premium (at least in all my searches), so wish me luck =)

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Nice! That one was my second choice.

Ordered a raw set of metal pieces (lollipop side rail), all except coin door and lcd panel. Looking at the powder coat colors online is hard to pick out one that matches that molding. Hoping a local place has a good selection of sample palettes.

Yeah, this type of gold is my fall back if the shiny chrome gold is too much. Looks really good

My rattling ended up being from some indents at the bottom of the shooter lane from when the ball lands prior to launch. After i installed shooter lane protector, it evened out the trajectory and gave it clean exits.

Couple more points to add. If from what I can tell in the video, it looks like the right prong ends up going forward first, thus not shooting it straight?

My auto-plunger is also pretty loose from left-to-right just like yours but shoots straight just fine. I'd like to guess that its not that part of the mechanism thats the issue but the whole attachment might be skewed ever so slightly. As Pin_fandango mentioned, the assembly might not be straight. If its not, adding washers and making it stiffer will not fix the right prong from hitting the first. What you can try doing is loosen the screws that holds the assembly and rotate it very slightly in the little bit of slack that it has. And while holding it in place retighten the screws.

AH! tough decision. To powercoat, or not, the coin door and LCD panel....think panel i can do without since I might add something to the face later, but the coin door....Saw a FS of a premium with gold everything and it looks good. I have all my parts here locally to coat in a few weeks, so have time to decide on that

nice! so with the sparkle, is that an add-on item to the illusion orange? I'm getting some stuff coated soon, but the people there didnt mention anything extra like that. Not sure if its a specialized process.

This becomes a pain at times to get it "just right". I've had to adjust it several times where its either too sensitive or requires a certain strength to hit it. And the issue comes from two things. Either the way the pole from the ball sits in the plastic pocket, or the spacing in the switches that trigger when that level gets bumped from a hit. I would get it find for 100-200 plays then it becomes finicky again.

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Lol, yeah. I would get it centered and tighten it...then later what I'm guessing happens is the ball is hit hard enough where the rod jumps out of the spoon, and with a couple of extra hits the rod from the outside of the spoon rim jams the arm holding the spoon and misaligns it again. B/c I'll go pull up the playfield and its out of whack. I havent had it happen on the mummy shot, only the crystal ball has it fallen out of place 3 times in the last 4 months

I have a weak spot for egyptian themed stuff. Would have preferred the premium art to be on the metallic paper. Did just get most of the armor/metal pieces coated, so cant wait to see how that looks assembled. Might be another couple of weeks since one of the parts didnt get painted properly so they'll be redoing it.

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Question isnt IMDN specific, but....I dont have experience with decal materials. The side of my cab art had a scuff in which Stern sent me a replacement decal. It was kinda crushed in the mail it seems, and before I go and remove the old on, I wanted to ask if with these kinds of materials do creases flatten out when removed from the backing paper? Photo is one of a couple of other similar spots.

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Yeah, searches just mention avoiding creasing during application, which would make sense with the glue pinching. Just dont know if it smoothens out if its pre-creased. I've messaged Stern to ask to see if its "normal" or if I need another one.

so droppy....lowered past the hole markers? or had them higher then put them to the markers

I think its the most brutal of his 4. A lot more packed closer to the flippers where inaccurate shots will fling the ball to the outlanes a lot easier. Considering a good chunk of the game is super reliant on those two ramps, and they're a pain to get down consistently, it can feel at times its hard to progress.

Wife and I are still pinball novices, and even though the game kicks our butts on a regular basis, we have a blast because of the theme integration. And when we get in the groove and hit those difficult shots consistently, nothing but satisfaction. But for sure theres a hurdle to get past with this game.

I do need to play more JP. The times we gotten games in, it felt easier than IMDN. We've only put a couple of hours in it so far and still waiting for our home unit to come up in production maybe sometime next year.

Terms only in difficulty (just shots) from easiest to hardest for us so far: GZ, AIQ, JP, IMDN

Speculative that theres a run in 2023 (dont even know what quarter if they do). They had archived and unarchived the game and then random rumors from distributors. Havent seen anything concrete

I've been starting my games at 6.5 and bumping from there till it feels correct. IMDN I have at 6.8 as 6.5 felt little sluggish. Did you have it lower than that before?

And reporting in here as well....Ever since installing the shooter lane protectors, auto plunge has been pretty immaculate for a couple of months now.

Ah, thats right. I forget to check the angle up higher on the pf. I do have a digital leveler. I only played it at 6.5 (at the flippers) for 5-10 games before bumping it up when I first got the game, so not much time with the gameplay as a whole. I'm going to be replacing the legs today so will be a good opportunity to play with it again especially after ~1k games at 6.7 and see how different it feels. The only shot thats been giving me trouble is the backhanded pyramid ramp.

Going to hold out to see if the Egyptian version becomes available.

Very true. Had forgotten how much of a price difference that was.

the 3d printed adapter is for the IC kits, not for a generic scanner. The readers and dongle are easy to come by, but its the extra firmware on the circuit that treats it as a node board in the chain. I havent seen that node board custom made or emulated, unless I've missed that somewhere.

Try re imaging the code from scratch. Could have been a glitch somewhere.

As far as that metal piece, it warps over time from the impact landings. I had mine brand new and started noticing some random hiccups as I put more games on it. Ended up swapping for a carbon fiber pad from Cliffy and has been perfect ever since. If you end up trying to remove it to flatten it, its a pain. The adhesive is pretty strong.

Finally getting around to messing around with the game this past week. Got my tomb guard painted a quick statue color. Will try other color schemes next week when time permits. Installed Gus after having it stored for a couple of months. Art blades installed as well. Its feeling very different, in a great way. Changing out the flippers, rubbers, and the NECA piece of mind Eddie to replace the stock figure in the coming week as well.

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Thanks! Part of a backboard project I'm working on over the next year. Since this piece can be standalone, will probably offer it in painted or ready-to-paint (DIY) in a couple of weeks once I finish and test some edits

Its resin printed on a Saturn 2. Different beast in producing stuff compared to FDM printers. Uncured resin is pretty toxic so needs proper handling and ventilation, along with post processing to clean/finalize the surface. This is what this piece looks like freshly washed in IPA alcohol. The detail that it can make is crazy good.

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It would mounted slightly different, but its an easy adjustment. I'll look at the game manual later to verify.

Yeah, I dont treat it like that level, but I do bring it up just in case people start getting the notion they can print and handle it like a normal FDM printer. Like how the PHD chemist said, treat it with respect. Still use protective gear and normal caution. I half treated it with precatuion in my first couple of months. But after a while of subtle exposure (I wasnt handling it bare, but from drops here and there while cleaning), my body built a sensitivity to it and start getting rashes and burning feeling at my finger tips. Eventually I become a bit allergic to it.

If I can cancel my tilt order, I'm down for it. Didn't realize it could take so long till recently (been a month at this point). I'll shoot over a DM

1-of-4 mods WIP. color scheme draft completed for this oen. Once i get my game put back together will take some new photos. Went with sandstone look vs antique gold. Made a magnetic mount cover to help hide the screws/etc. Second mod WIP sometime in September.

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Thanks!

Yeah, most stuff I'll make some to sell unless its a PITA to produce. Small batches of each thing I make will probably be my route going forward. 20-50 run depending on how much time I get free since doing them in my limited free time from work/family. For these, going to offer a paint DIY blank figure for 40, 2-tone color (a metal type of choice or sandstone finish with shadows for contrast) for 60, and full color for 100.

nice! They're fun to paint. Some wine/beer + a movie to relax and can zone out for a few hours with a brush (my plans for this weekend for these and some other projects).

What I see them doing like they did with gotg. Maybe just pros since easier to piece together parts. There was a factory Friday clip someone posted recently that had a pro in the background so who knows if they reused an old clip for social media or whatnot.

I'm sad I missed them when they were in town a week or two ago. Hoping for a couple more tours that will bring the back in the next couple of years. Feel like they should since they recently released a new album.

We'll have a few of these maybe by late winter (February?). Guess this would be a tease then for this. Collab project with some friends, and my buddy who does painting on these kinds of figures just had twins, so waiting on that to settle down along my kiddo in the coming weeks =)

Doing two versions of her. The one on the right is a bit more on the video game promo art look.

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I think those are the spitfire models. On amazon, search "spitfire plane" and you should fine similar ones. Exact one used here or other interactive ones not sure which on it is, but all small variances outside the customization some modders have done

In the switch test, are you seeing it specifically trigger that one when hitting the flilpper? I had the same problem but it was the orb. The post underneath the playfield sat wrong in the plastic cup trigger. Became very sensitive.

If you are seeing that opto trigger with hitting the flipper, trying that switch test with the playfield up. Wiggle the cable in different locations. Also if the opto is ever so slightly being blocked by the hole wall, the vibration might be JUST enough to move the laser in and out of place. I know that has to be pretty exact to have to be a thing, but at least something else to check.

These are the common fixes you'll get suggested as have been the causes for hitting high or low:

1. Edge metal guide at the exit is rough, sending it off course. With a fine file, grind it slightly.
2. Clean and wax the playfield.
3. Check condition of the of the lane. (This one was it for me. I believe after 'x' amount of ejects into the lane, it messed with the clearcoat slightly and messed up straight trajectory. Was going to do it anyway, but adding a lane protector fixed my plunged up to 90% of the time)
4. Not sure how common this might be, but the metal guide can be slightly readjusted. The screw around the exit holding it to the playfield has some give for adjustment if you loosen it. Can slightly move it, hold and tighten.

If it feels weak on both auto and manual, i'd start with the clean and wax. The rough edge I can see shooting it downward to the post. My other two suggestions listed are a little more seldom scenarios. You'll probably get more fixes to try from others, but I'd start with the first two for now.

The sparkle gold I used was very subtle and part of the clear coat additive . Still need to replace the coin door stuff. Gold medallion was the main coat powder used

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Try feature setting 152. It should be at the current top score of 47. If you lower it, should trigger on the next game to put a new score. Believe that's how anony described it would work

Reset all the scores now before you get a lot more high scores. its only one score but I know it would bother me long term

Thought the same after listening to the album. And the concert giant samurai Eddie looks badass. Not sure where one could go on the playfield though. Also because I'm guessing once that merchandising expands there will be figures readily available at a good price that could replace one of the existing ones. Working on a diorama topper that merges the themes of the three versions of the game, so maybe one can be added up there.

Speaking of which, I'll have a teaser of a fragment of the topper I'm working on hopefully this weekend. All pending if the newborn can sleep enough on his own so I can finish some painting, lol. I'll end up making and linking a dedicated mod thread of the stuff I've been working on for the past 6 months with more details and optimistic timelines on releases.

Also, heres a fun one after 6 months of slowly adding to it. Needs a couple of more tweaks to the design to increase stability on some small sections. Merged some accuracies from the game and the comics in her clothing and color detail