Tagged for interest

any club members who have created their own mods/3d prints and have shared their designs here before?
I am new to this club and I have not had a chance to cycle through 192 pages yet, I did some but not all.

In other clubs I am member of sometimes I see these designs being offered for free and I could have it printed for free

what kind of material are the using for this? is this mylar? does not seem to be

yes, this playfield is not looking very good. I would recommend that you take action sooner rather than later. Do it now while the games are being produced, you should qualify for a populated replacement considering the condition of this pf, this game would be unplayable.

99.9% your issue will persist.
I never got anything resolved by Stern support.
They are only good for sending replacement parts and or ‘recall’ kits, like for example: aiq subway mech, or the stranger thing ramp cover.

No follow up and no real solutions unless it is an issue with a ‘recall’ part associated to it. If it is not, then you are just wasting yo time waiting for the exact same part you already have in there.

Roll your sleeves up and enjoy fixing and dialling this in yourself.

Got mine today!

8760D1B2-AE49-4511-8933-987C06EE89B1 (resized).jpeg

What is the deal with the ball protector on the back.

I can’t decide if removing it now and replacing with mylar is a better call or just leave it?

Ok, so will it hold up to several hundred games?
I was just wondering if it’s just better to add mylar?

Question:
When manually plunging full power I can make the orbit 99.9% of the time, however, the auto-plunger, which is stronger than a manual plunge in failing to make the orbit 60 to 70% of the time.
I can see the ball guide on the shooter lane can be adjusted, but before I make changes, was wondering if there is anything else I need to adjust?

Mine is September 2021 and it does not have Stern Connect. I honestly do not need this for a home pin so I am happy mine does not have it.
I believe the next run will have these on, and the next run is schedule for sometime 2022.
I was told the next in line is DP, however, I am not sure it will have Stern Connect.

Thanks for the tip. I went ahead and check what you recommended to make sure and it is all good.
I ended up adjusting the shooter lane guide and it solved the issue 100%. It was literally 1.5 mm off adjustment.

Freaking love this pinball machine. I honestly can't stop playing it! I played every single game made by Stern and this is the one I can't literally stop playing, the flow is incredible and it is just a lot of fun to play. Absolutely love it and regret not getting it sooner.

what is everybody using for flipper power?
As we all know Stern flippers are super snappy and at max power I am worrying that something is gonna get bent out of shape...

I have everything stock except for the through eject to save the shooter lane but was wondering what setting are you running for flippers.
My game is at 6.8 degrees at the moment and really like it.

I got to cyborg multi ball the first night I got the game, lol, I have been trying to get there again! I dont even know how I got there or what needs to be done to get there! lol Will read the rules tonight.
freaking amazing pin!!

65535887312__544C691F-899D-47E8-82B2-1F3E77F96EFD (resized).jpeg

It is either code or mechanical.
If mechanical check for binding, specially if it is on/off might be something loose.
If code, maybe a code update done wrong, this is common when ‘updating’ rather than flashing the card.
To prevent code issues, it is much faster and reliable to download the ‘card image’ rather than the code update.
Flashing guarantees the code 100% whereas an update in my experience isnt reliable as you are partially adding the new code rather than fully upgrading, even when fully ‘updating’.

Check the motor in the test menu too, and see how it behaves.
I dont have a premium so not sire if it is a motor or coil, either way, test menu, game features is where you gonna find it.

It is a very easy fix. Before you start bending the guide take it out and put it on a piece of paper and use it a template to draw the curve it currently has, that way, if you make an abrupt change, you can easily use the drawing on the paper as a guide for the ball guide (no pun intended - yikes).

I say this because I small adjustment is a big adjustment/change.

I recommend that you take the guide completely off. Easily done by remove the screw at the bend plus the leveler and it comes out, then you can make adjustments.

once you are done, I use the test-->coil-->single coil test and select the plunger

It might take you a couple trial and errors but in a nutshell, you do not want the ball too close to the ball guide across nor the tip of the small flipper, it has to pass right through the centre to accommodate for a least than perfect launch.

Ok that was long winded! good luck

and just wanted to say again in case I did not before:
Wow this machine in incredible. I will measure all games by this one now. I have to say I played all the Elwin's. This is by far my favourite so far but that might change if I spent more time on JP however, IM is just too much fun, literally, an absolute blast!

I just sold Elvira to buy this and I honestly do not miss Elvira HOH at all.

Same here, on 3 ocassions balls got held on the upper right.
Not sure what to do, but first guess is replacing it with something else.

I am not sure why Mylar did not work. Maybe it was installed poorly before? Always had great success with mylar.

ok so I have been playing the game for 1 week now and wanted to know what is the general consensus about the difficulty of this game.

I am not by any means any pinball wiz but have been playing consistently for the last 10 months, pretty much daily, I think my game style improved but I can't really measure, all that to put in perspective what I am about to say. lol

How difficult do you guys find this game to be? I am consistently making 400 to 600M scores and although I have not gotten to fighting the devil I am just maybe a few days away from that if I continue playing it like this.
A typical game for me in completing cyborg, getting 2 Eddie cards, etc but I find I am getting to this point pretty organically without much strategy other than stacking maybe trooper MB with a mode (I have not found a better stack yet).

All that to say, I do not find this game very difficult at all, and at this rate I will most likely be finishing the game often.

Outlanes are wide open and pitch is 6.8 and the game plays very fast so I am thinking:
Is this game an easy game?
or is it high scoring?

or what?

oh! I knew there had to be more to it. I did not know about the level 2 cards and the other tombs... This is certainly a game changer!!!
phew!
knowing this, now I realize I might be only 25% into the game code.

Love the shots, I dont think I played a game with such fun shots... I am really curious about JP, only played a little bit and looks really fun too and before anybody says it, had AIQ for a few months but absolutely hated it.

Yeah, for sure, I’ll try reducing the time. I rarely have a high scoring game with extra balls though. Yesterday I got to cyborg not once, but twice, on separate games on Ball 1. Lol
I then was holly shit, what I am doing? How did that happen?
Love the game

Loved he clarified two for$12k lol

wonder if any of you know the handle of any of the guys working at Stern on this site? I am sure those guys are on here somewhere and can read the owner's thread. I mean, if I was Stern, I would like to read the new releases threads so they can pick up issues as they are reported.
I am sure this might work better than the actual EMAIL system they currently use.

wondering if we could do that for this game, I think they need to come up with a better solution...the longevity of this piece of "metal" is very limited, the more it gets hit the more it bends and it stretches out, it is the nature of the material and it stretches with every ball hit, it starts to curl on the edges.

Unfortunately, my suggestions is coming in a little too late so now we need to find another alternative besides replacing this piece... wondering what that is and if Stern has any ideas?
Maybe if we @ one of the customer service guys so they can see people are still talking about this, that would be great.

Is this a new game?
Send a video of the connector issue/light.

It should not do that. That is either a bad socket and/or a bad led. Very easy to diagnose, pull a LED from somewhere else and try it and see if it does the same, if it does, replace the socket. $1 repair.

Any pinball retailer will have a good alternative, no need to get a Stern socket as there is no such thing, they are made in China, arguably, a pinball parts retailer might have a better replacement/better quality.

Just get one with the same shape, there are different ones, for different purposes and for different heights, Williams sockets are not the same one used in Stern, for example and the LED will protrude more or less if you mix/match.

If it turns out to be the socket, I would use the opportunity to replace ALL the socket on that area.

what pitch is the game at? try 6.7+ degrees.

I left it at default, seems fine!

your email fell down through the cracks and nobody is analyzing anything. Ask me how I know.
Follow up if you want an answer. I have tickets open with them to which they have never reached back to me about.

is this the game with the bent PF?

The best thing you can do for yourself is shoot a video of how the game plays.
Send it to your distributor and cc Stern in the Email. If they still make you wait after that demo I would use social media.
Unfortunately sometimes it is necessary to do these things to get answers, it is sad, buy you paid full price for a defective machine and you should either get a fully populated PF swap or a complete new game.
That PF is trash.

same here and you got the standard response everybody else get for anything else.

I like the positive approach. I think that unfortunately their service post sale is poor and slow, they are most likely understaffed but an issue like yours does not need any analysis. You have an unplayable piece of equipment, if this was on location it would produce nothing and nobody will drop money on it and the photos you have produced are clear enough, not sure what other analysis needs to be done.
I get it, this machine is not meant to save lives but we are talking common sense and customer service here. 2 things that Stern unfortunately is poor at.
All their machines have a HUGE sticker with a 0-800 number that leads NOWHERE other than a recording with instructions to send an email.
Not only that, because of the new insider features new app thingy, the registration of new machines leads to the wrong page and you cannot register any games.
That is an indication that they do not have a proper warranty process in place nor they care to track it.

Ball protector update:

Mine was totally bent up after 300 plays, it was causing some hangups although the ball would roll over in 90% of the situations but some slow balls would get trapped.

I removed the thin metal sheet, carefully, and cleaned the glue off the playfield with Isopropyl alcohol(99%), then cleaned the glue off the metal with another chemical and cleaned it well, degreased, etc.

I had some 3M 300LSE double sided tape, graded for different heavy duty applications. This tape has a lot of grip to it and it gets better over time. The best part is that the grip momentarily dissolves when you wet with isopropyl alcohol, so removing is a breeze, once the alcohol dries off the tape becomes tacky again although it will still work now, it will have a little less grip.

I also waxed the PF before installing it, I don't want a permanent bond nor making it harder for me to maintain this piece. Waxing did not interfere with the bond but might affect long term efficacy of the bonding agent, I don't care. I intend to replace it over time, just not so quickly after 300 plays.

I recommend you guys use this tape when reinstalling the protector, the tape has a very low profile. It's been over 50 games now and it has not moved at all.
I have used this tape before and it is very durable in other applications.
The link provided is just to show what size you want, do not buy the thin roll. I am not affiliated with the seller, this is just for demonstration, I do not endorse this seller in any way.

https://www.amazon.ca/300lse-Adhesive-Transfer-Attaching-Digitizers/dp/B00LWFO5R6

the box is very thick and should resist normal transit. If it was damaged severely, it is an indication that it was either dropped or smashed. Scratches are normal and that is what the box is for, also, due to the small footprint of the pallet, the freight will rub against other items in the truck or warehouse.
Had several NIBs, some travelled across US to Canada, to the other side of Canada, and it has been great.

hang in there, the ramps, for me the right one specially is super hard! but today I managed a 8X combo on both and got a crazy score on Icarus

mariner and aces high are the 2 modes I cannot complete, the moving targets at the end are killers and I lose my nerve and disaster strikes, lol.
What an awesome game, I can't stop playing it. the shots are so fun, it is never chopping wood, excellent flow, just awesome pinball.

after noticing the 3 bank target resetting really hard, I remembered that the coil power can also be adjusted from the options menu so I lowered to 36.
Now the Pf does not shake anymore when the bank resets. It was so strong before that it would make it vibrate quite noticeably...

Wondering if you guys noticed that too, I am not sure if the extra vibration might be an issue or not, at any rate, it works fine too at 36 power setting.

Another thing I noticed, Stern put some sort of silicon grease on the back on the wedges so they slide easier... I am not a fan of that because it will gunk up over time with coil dust and it will slow the targets down. I just recently rebuild the drop downs in my Indiana Jones due to that issue and a nice clean up fixed them all... no lube needed to make it work after that... no issues.

Just some food for thought and maintenance down the road, I just did not know they were lubing the back of the wedges...

good to know it was not just my game with a crazy strong drop down target bank. It is option #63 in the Game adjustments.
And yeah, good idea about the ball through eject, I do that on all my Stern on day one and also add mylar on the shooter lane. I have tried both cliffies and mylar and do not notice the difference, sure, the cliffy is permanent and will never need replacement but the mylar is 0.10 cents.

I actually do the entire lane with mylar (It is waxed before hand), including the elbow where the ball enters the PF/game area. I hav done it so many times that I can do it quickly and the mylar is cut to size to fit perfectly. I can get this done under 10 min and you barely see anything on my game.
I have seen guys do this but they cut the mylar too short and it does not do much... The way I do it, maybe over the top, is how I like it.

I have been doing it in all my games and all of them had clean and pristine lanes the entire time I owned them.

Particularly in games with an elbow/turn on the lane, the ball with leave marks rather quickly on this area when unprotected and and it is very hard to remove these marks once there are there without a lot of polishing (that introduces scratches). I cut a small piece of mylar on this area that prevent this, and makes maintenance there a breeze.

Highly recommend!
here is a pic! this lane has multiple pieces and the exit how is fully covered with a custom cut with 3 pieces of mylar, from the wire gate all the way down to the switch. Closer to the switch, mid way up, it might look like the wood is dirty but this is a defect of the wood, it was like this on day one. The lane is perfect and mylar reduces the maintenance here 95+%, which is the most used area of the game.
This is what it looks like after 360 games as of today. the lane is waxed so the whole mylar comes off just by looking at it if I needed to.

Cheers

IMG_6733 (resized).jpegIMG_6734 (resized).jpegIMG_6735 (resized).jpeg

well done! that is a crazy score. My game has been punishing me and can't get past 700M I did the first day, lol.

I think it is a mistake to lube these things, in my opinion these should work perfect without any lube, especially when brand new parts are involved.
I don't have time to take it apart and clean it off and try to see how it works. I suspect that they might be using really strong spring behind the wedges and maybe that is why they are using the lube...

Unrelated vent:
On a totally different note, I was able to see a Spooky game yesterday for the 2nd time, a friend needed help updating code, etc.
This time around I was able to see the inside of the cab as it was not my game... Wow, what a HUGE disappointment and maybe a topic for another thread but since I am here and venting: Spooky uses the cheapest method in the world to build cabinets, butt joints and pocket holes! Horrible! Certainly not meant to last 30 years in a commercial environment -mind you Williams was not planning that either- (moving a cab made with pocket holes, it will eventually come all loose in the corners. I can't tell if there are other reinforcements through the butt joints but I doubt it. Absolute trash. Everything is butt joints. My 5 year old can build a better cab. Cheap cheap cheap cheap building method and horrible choice for a pinball.

All that to say, Stern makes a good cabinet, to Williams standards and even better with upgraded floor that is plywood rather than MDF (maybe their plywood could be a grade better please and not so soft, thanks!) but Spooky's is absolute trash. I don't even use pocket holes in my kitchen cabs.
What a horrible discovery that was, hugely disappointed and those praising spooky's build quality are unaware or out to lunch.

following the instructions would really help. the screw has a TON of adjustment, the bracket is actually U shaped for the screw so you can adjust.
I suggest you bend the wireworm so it does not pull away from your adjustment once it is down. It might otherwise, over the period of a few hundred games, slightly start to get out of adjustment.
Before you bend the wireworm, you might want to put it on piece of paper and draw the outline of it so you know what the original shape looked like. Small changes here make huge changes when you shoot the ball.

to me it seems like the ball loses a lot of energy on the turn and not sure you will see a lot of gain from springs alone, the rod might need to be a bit shorter maybe? I am not a physicist lol but maybeeeeee that would work.

I am still diagnosing mine, I can go a more than 100 games with no issues and all of the sudden, balls stop making the loop when auto plunging. It is a bit disconcerting, like there is no rhyme or reason as to why is doing it because nothing has changed, things stop working momentarily and the next game the loop works 100% with auto plunge.

I suspect the coil is on the weak side and each plunge can be a bit inconsistent, OR, there is something in the code and the plunger is not getting the same amount of power every time?? mayyyybe?

It is weird because balls will change trajectory as if the power has changed. In other words, the ball might bounce off the little flipper bat and in the next shot it will bounce off the ball guide. This inconsistency makes me think that the coil is the issue and not the orbit adjustment (which I have already adjusted and worked perfectly for over 300 games, and works still the same now, I also check and it has not moved nor come lose or anything).

I have checked the actual mech and can't see anything wrong with it, so I am not sure yet what the issue might be. It is certainly not the adjustment anymore, I have dealt with it when I got the game.

I just cleaned and waxed the game and see if that makes a difference. Either way, this is weird.

yes, the auto plunger is a very important part of the game to keep the flow and or breaks consistent!

good news is I think I figured it out:

It turns out the guide had come out of alignment again, not sure why, as I had tuned it once before. I tuned it up again and it has been working 100% tonight.

This is what I did:

- Coil power as before -factory setting- 255
- Followed Stern's instructions (same as before). Because it started hitting the ball guide on the left side, I tune the guide on the shooter lane to shoot closer to the upper flipper.

** this is what I did different this time around**
I set it up so it shot closer to the upper flipper. I did some slow motion videos to see how close I was getting until I got the ball closer to it rather than the lower ball guide. I got it on the first try really, did not need to fiddle with it much.

Then, I reduced the coil power until I find a setting to get it to shoot the ball exactly in the middle, between the little flipper and ball guide. I figured, let's get the ball as high as possible first and then control the angle by adjusting the coil power rather than controlling this with the shooter lane guide.

The coil power has been reduced in setting #69 to 205 and played the game for 1.5 hours. No issues.

So with my original settings, I needed the coil at full power in order to not hit the ball guide under the flipper, and now, with my new setting, 50 points less than factory, I can get around with no issues so far.

The ball goes around the orbit just a hair slower but the shots have been consistent this way. Obviously, I would say it is too early to call it done but I am optimist.

Now, if the ball starts hitting the guide I know something has come out of alignment again, or something is binding. Also, having extra power available will enable me to fine tune if necessary, specially due to the auto plunger mech design and its tolarances, not every shot is exactly the same - they are very close - so having extra power available will allow me to explore a bit. Will see how it behaves for the next 100 games.

I will report back, cheers.

will try the rubber ring if it happens again.
Right now the guide is set up in a way that there has nowhere to go but down, as I have adjusted it to the maximum curve possible and without being tightened it rests position is the highest position. I am hoping that even when coming lose it will still stay in its resting position (highest). The only way the guide can be lowered is by changing shape, which I doubt it will happen.

Another dozens of games so far and the ball is still making it 100% of the time. Looks like my adjustment to overshoot the ball and then control with coil power is working well.

Thanks for the tip, will try the rubber under the screw if it happens again.

I got it twice tonight, in the same game, after seeing this thread, lol... 15mil and then 30mil. It is a tough one!

I think the most logical explanation, I think most likely the rubbers were too high or too low and this will change the spinning effect of the ball when the flipper hits them and then hit something else it will want to transfer the energy in a different direction.
Just like playing pool sort of thing.

Something similar happened to Spooky, I can't remember what it was, but it was either their flipper bushings were too high or too short, I think they were too high and the game was not playing right. They made new flipper bushings after people discovered this.

you can also loop all the way around and shoot the ball into the smaller orbit with the right upper, I can't remember if the post came up but got the ball into the Super Jackpot switch this way too as it was coming back down.
Done it this way more often than when short plunging it.

On a separate topic, what is the pharaoh switch bullseye for? I can't tell the difference when I hit the centre of it, is it points before starting the mode?

I really want to change the colours of those light but I will never pay $40 plus shipping for a part that cost $1 on a 3d printer, I just can't.
I will wait until I get my own 3d printer. With that said, the stock white light are blinding me sometimes, specially once you complete several modes, it is just too much.

agreed! I think I am just trying to make up an excuse to buy a 3d printer, lol.

happens to me often! lol but a classic for me is getting the extra ball to automatically drain, and the extra ball is just usually a bad ball afterwards.

it is not about the money, it is that I want to do it myself mostly. It is what I enjoy doing but I also play lots, hehe. In the next little while, I will be soldering 2 bare WPC 89 Power Driver Boards and 2 CPUs for a scratch build I am keeping under wraps once it gets advanced into the build and will post later next year sometime.

Got my pro made in Sept. No QR bologna included, lol. all good, do not need it.

today I got the two spinners going while on 'fear on the dark', both at the same time and I just happened to have 2X playfield going and holly smokes, ended up the mode and completed it with a total of 2xx.xxx.

Elwin really though out the combos on this game, they are so nice when you get them.

This is by far the most fun packed machine I have owned yet! and I think Godzilla might be a close 2nd for me just because I do not own one and only played it a handful of times but it has a flow that pretty much resembles Iron Maiden and it is just a blast!

play count is 600+ for me now. A couple of updates:

1- the ball launch has been 100% since I adjusted in my last post about it, in a nutshell, overshoot at full power to get close to the small flipper then reduce power to get it to shoot in the middle. It has been great.

2- I've got in two different occasions, balls stuck here:
IMG_6800 (resized).jpeg

this was particularly annoying because it ended up ruining a really good game I had going, lol...
I tried adjusting the post but it has nowhere to go, and the ramp does not seem to be out of alignment or anything.

I feel like a custom 3d printed part to go in between the ramp and the post would solve the issue, but I do not own a 3d printer, lol.

Any other ideas?

very nice mods Sir!

Holly flipperoni batman.
First pin?

Lol

I think it might be too soft of a tune for the game but it can be fun, I think it is worth a try!

That is very cool, if you can share the process of replacing the images I would be interested as well as I am pretty proficient with Photoshop (not an expert by any means but can make it work).

Is it possible to keep the modes songs and just replace the normal gameplay tunes?

Haha! I am glad you tried after reading my message.
That shot got me screaming as well, lol, it is really hard to get!

I have just learned that there is 7 way combo in the game and it looks like this.
I have not completed it but I do get 4-5 shots combo’d in random order sometimes, love it!

A9F23062-9C06-4E89-8F76-C920E5D9C1AD (resized).jpeg

This has been extensively discussed here.
You will find the answer by using the search function.

it is not a setting, the ball protector curls up and cradles the ball.
I have posted about this not long ago. I recommended a good double sided tape to reinstall.

Is this your first pinball machine? just asking to gauge the level of experience you might have repairing and disassembling.

Agree 100% with you. It is not the greatest design from a longevity or maintenance point of view, it is a terrible weak point.

I tried to ignored it for 300 games but it was just ruining the experience so I took it off, cleaned and reinstalled with the tape I mentioned before. I have put a few hundred games since and has not budged.
In case you missed it in here, a few people tried mylar with little success and it gets really damaged quickly so you end up maintaining more.

That whole section in my opinion, should have been routed out to accept a metal insert directly attached to the PF with screws. That would have been perfection and likely 0 maintenance...

You are welcome. I think the metal piece Stern uses is a great alternative to Mylar. I can't speak about other replacements made by others.
I notice a HUGE improvement just by replacing the adhesive under the metal so it properly attaches to the PF. The 3M tape I used is commercial grade, bonding increases over time and it is easily removable with isopropyl alcohol.

Put a few hundred game since and it has not moved a bit.

I think the problem is not the actual metal piece but poor installation at the factory. The double sided tape the used is very cheap and adhesion is weak. During break-in it curls up and pull it off.

I am not a fan of taping it over, as you mentioned, as I do not think it will last either.

My approach has shown almost no changes in almost 250 games since the change. The metal piece does need a break in period though, it will slightly curl at the beginning.

I recommend the 3M tape I mentioned before. It is used in high end electronics and other environments. It is designed to be removed easily too. It is the right product for this application. Nikon uses it to hold the plastic grips attached to the cameras in their pro grade cameras (that is how I found it)

I recommend it

congrats, this game is a blast. I got mine recently too, previous run (Sept). At first I thought the game was easy and as usual, the more I play it the more I suck! I can't explain it! lol
Anyway, enjoy! it is a blast.

if you put your hands on it and make it worse, that is the end of the warranty for you. So you either fix it or do not bother. The components on the spike boards are tiny so it is not like soldering through board components on WPC, it is a bit different and requires the right equipment. It can be done, but I would not practice on it.
Take the board to somebody that can fix it? I would not attempt the repair if your equipment and experience are not on par. You will be out of warranty, and out $300+ for a new board.

Get your distro involved, get them to take a board form another game? while THEY wait for the repair?

I hope they look after you. Good luck.

Very curious about the new code although I suspect it is only related to the code reader part only.

curious on changing the icons, it would really wrap it up nicely.

poorly implemented. One of the nicest features on a pinball machine is 50% of what it was before.

Also, it is designed to illuminate a photo of a code that is why it is white/white light emitting - but like really who walks around with a photo of the code?? -... Therefore you do not need a huge white light illuminating your phone screen, as your phone screen emits its own light.

The camera should have been incorporated in the lock down button or next to it, the whole system can be triggered by actually pressing the start button --> turn lock down button light off --> start the camera -- > read the code. A pin hole camera in the centre of the button and you are done.

I solve issues like this for a living, if you were wondering.

can be there too, but for a user experience point of view it is easier if it is on the top. But yes, anywhere other than the apron!
It could also be part of the start button.

Put it anywhere! just take that shite off the apron.

I presume it is because they are trying to capture players without cellphones. So you bring a picture of the code and you get to access your account.
I really doubt there was any real data determining this decision, as I believe 95% of the players will have a phone in their pocket.

exactly.

The majority will prefer an app over logging into a website because it is proven, practical and standard. If you tell me I have to use my phone, I will assume that an app exists so as a new user I would expect an app in the apple store/google store. That would be my first guess if I needed to figure it out.
If you make me work for my access then forget it, I ain't have time for that nor am I interested.

The whole 'connectivity' feature will have a better chance at surviving the initial hype if it is easily integrated into your daily life (an app on your phone) rather than me spending 10-30 seconds of my life every time I need to use it, finding the website, logging into a page, reveal my QR code, etc.

You do the latter a few times and it gets old quick, people will start abandoning it. Yes you can take a photo of the QR code/print screen and save it in your photos, This also gets old quick as your QR gets buried into a multitude of pictures, you then have to find your code in your library. Try it, it is annoying.

The app should have access to the profile and should allow you to register warranties, manage claims, everything.
This cost money.

The only real way, simple way and preferred way will be the app, or I predict the connectivity feature die off in the next 12 months. haha
Signed,
Pin_Fandangamous

It is not. I do it to all my games.
The only ramp that needs it is the right one, the other one already has mylar.

Wax the pf first!

To remove, the ramps are attached by screws under the pf. Two nuts by the flapper under the pf

Finally!!
Almost got to fight the devil, but cant get damm mommy card!!!
Lol

For the record and bragging rights. Tilt bob is tight! 6.8 pitch and stock settings everywhere.
Need a nap
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I think I will be upgrading speakers too.
What is the best and cheap an audiophile can have.
Speakers are not expensive, I am sure there is a really good diy alternative already posted here.

Dissasemble the coil.
Check the sleeve.
Check the arm.
Check connections.

This game flows too fast to be gentle here and there. Once you get it fixed up you will see the potential this design has, it is a rocket.

What is the issue with your ramps?

looks like it is jumping at the bend. I m pretty sure you will be waiting ages for Stern replacement part. I would investigate and try to do yourself while you wait, if you want, I can try to fix it for you. I am located in Ottawa, not sure where you are but you can ship the part to me and I will take a look if fixing this kind of stuff isn't your cup of tea.

I have already recommended the 3M adhesive that is correct for this application, lol, but I swear sometimes posting here is like screaming at the sky. lol

Only one is at the pop.
Did you remove the plastics at the slings? Wondering if its from under there…

mine fell off shortly after I got the game, and yes, there is a plastic washer in between the board and the plastic.

lol gotta love it man! it happens. That is like getting EB and draining second after, to then drain the EB.

I have installed mylar after the protector when the ball lands after the big loop, after 550 games, the ball is slowly making a really nice and even orange peel (like all games do yes including Williams games ) but I noticed the ball trails were going to be problematic here so instead of waiting for making maintenance 100 times more difficult in 500 games more, I just added mylar here and then -IF/WHEN- I feel like taking off the mylar and put new one is much easier than dealing with a difficult ball trail on the bend.

Love mylar! photos below, first one is with a little template I made and second with mylar installed. I do this to all my games when orbit have big drops or high speed orbits. It prevents wear by almost 100% I think and makes maintenance a breeze.

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I clean and wax my games immediately after ball trails are visible.

So all that to say...
putting a protector back thee is a no brainer. get whatever it does not matter but it is always better to do something sooner rather than later. Putting a protector later when the area is mangled up will be harder as the PF will not be flat anymore and the metal + glue might not adhere as well.
If you are concerned about installing this, the 3m tape I recommended earlier comes off in seconds with isopropyl alcohol.

It would be nice if the connected feature allowed for remote multiplayer. It would be cool if some of us here can compete against each other, in real time, as if we were playing in the same room. I think it would be a cool feature rather than just competing for scores.

I always wondered how is the game keeping these audits even after flashing the card. Is there a secondary card where these things are recorded?

I am getting a microscope for some upcoming soldering I will be doing soon (building some PIN2DMD screens for myself) but I think these spike board are a step forward when it comes to components size. Some of the resistors are tiny.

The pro just got a lot better! but it sucks for le/prem owners... this game is a pro though...

I just got the code, lol, card is flashed... I might add the connectivity in the future.

yes, and the adhesive properties improve after a few hours, still, it easily comes off with isopropyl alcohol.
Tip, next time just get the wider tape. Ebay has it for cheap, it just takes a little longer to arrive.

it is pixie dust, you put it in, spend $200 on IC and then get annoying badges showing up on the screen every now and then. lol

I don't know, I think the IC feature might take off but a lot of effort will have to be put on the software. I suspect the whole IC feature will die off in 12 months, will become an optional thing and people will opt out.

I dont like the scoring up to BALL 2 when the other players are removed.

The first bend seems to be the issue, the ball is pushed towards the left, it rides the guide and bounces off the link. Need a slower video to be sure.
The ball turn on the bend is over corrected I suppose and it should ride the right side more, which is why the right side is taller.

Quick help needed.

Can someone confirm the resting position of the left ramp wireform?

I took it off to replace some leds and when reinstalling I have noticed that in its resting position it is elevated before bolting it down.

Looks normal to me but want to make sure I am not missing anything

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thanks everyone!

I try to get the spinner right away and get a couple letters while the ball save is up.
I focus on the ramps after the second letter as it gets more complicated to collect switches and find the 3rd ball helps in the process, getting the spinner is harder with more than 3 balls.

All that to say, after not understanding mummy multiball for a solid 4 weeks thinking it was harder than it was, I finally read up the rules and tried it and been getting it pretty much every other game!

Since this change in strategy I have managed to collect 3 cards! Lol
Was only missing 2 minutes to midnight and drained.

For now, I think that if I get mummy card on ball 1 I might have a better chance to get to the beast.

And agree, pinball is very psychological. If you are off, tired, bad mood or simply not feeling it, the table will almost 99.9% reflect that with crappy scores.

If I am teaching someone how to play the game, it seems to release the pressure and I often play better than when on my own.
It is very strange.

I really doubt the ball really touches that rail on the way out.
A slow motion vid will reveal it.

As far as ball guide adjustment goes, I had 99.9% success in mine after the last adjustment I did: over shoot the ball closer to the small flipper bat, then adjust by lowering the power in settings. It has been great after 200 games.

right ramp I usually a lot harder for me than the left.

the right rail is over bent, gives the ball too much free space and the ball bounces off towards the left.
The issue is clearly at the bent, I mentioned this I believe a few posts ago as it was already clear to me in the first video you had sent...

In this episode of 'screaming to the clouds'... lol

I am even more certain of this issue now, I can see how the light reflects off the rail in the section you circled up and it is clearly bent out of shape at the bend.
Too much air in between the ball and the right rail and physics are not helping here, need to reduce the gap so the rail acts like a guide and therefore prevent the bounce.

There is no easy way to fix this without a proper jig to bend everything up uniformly, do not try pliers, you will be sorry in my experience the wireworm are just too 'thick' and hard.

I think that securing it in a vise and trying to close the wireworm might work - only the top portion- where the tape is might work, the issue is that if you over do it, then bending back is nearly impossible.

Just like you did with tape, I think that you need to close the gap in between the ball and the rail I think.