Technically IN the club..premium ordered and the wait begins

I have them on all of my machines (where the glass slides up) and it makes a big difference.

Get your machine out of the bloody box first

Not too bad but i think the "Number of the beast" figure out of all of them just doesn't sit well on that colour background. I realise it's still a work in progress though but that figure alone looks like it's been cut out of the album cover literally and glued on. It's probably just the contrast between the red and the background sand/yellow colour that makes it stand out strangely for my eyes.

Making me hang out for my coming Premium even more now about 6 weeks to go

Got a link for these particular boards?

Seems like i chose the best machine for my first and possibly only NIB judging by previous posts......4 weeks or so to wait and then Yeeeehaaawww

Premium

I did too, went with 2 sets cause i couldn't make my mind up So a set of A covers and a set of C covers....some of the B's were bloody ordinary.

Why not cool?? it's not like we are talking Nickelback here

I think you misread my post. I've been a fan of Maiden since before Bruce joined the band. The IRONS ROCK!!! and if people don't like them like i do i really don't care. I'm going to see Bruce do his speaking tour in a few weeks in support of his recent autobiography (which is an awesome read i must add). On an aside i like Nickelback too but their more recent albums aren't as good as their earlier work

My fav is Isle of Man Eddie

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New T-Shirt OCH The Irons

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Just don't forget to have FUN along the way To me that's the most important part of the hobby, achieving high scores are great, comparing these scores against others is just part of human nature to be competitive. I personally just love getting on Maiden and smacking the balls around head banging (as much as possible without losing sight of the PF ) to the music, sometimes the scores come without even trying. I guess my point is that it's really easy to forget the journey when you're solely focused on a goal.

Maybe i'm weird but i'm happy with the sound from my Premium, it's far better than any of my other machines and a couple of those have FF set's on them

The amount of artwork hidden by Lollipop rails is minor really and certainly not any of the main art. I'd prefer the rails over stick on guards that could quite likely damage the cab decal later on if or when needed to be removed

I did too last night, no bloody idea how i did it but it was very cool

I went with orange for my premium, plus changed the rails.

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On the head? i was actually thinking about maybe going chrome. The guy who runs Pinballplating over your side of the pond offers Lollipop rails in chrome and also the back box brackets but i don't think he does the lock down bars for these later Sterns. Otherwise i would have gone for the full chrome look

Nahhh i haven't but sure thought about doing it. Not being able to match with a chrome lock down bar put me off, using the standard black powder coated bar with chrome rails would look out of place. I kinda disagree about one colour too many although i understand where you are coming from with that thought. I think chrome works well on most machines as a neutrality between any colour cab decals and the play field art/translite art. For example : Fish Tales has a lot of orange/red on the cab but looks fantastic with some nice new chrome armor and lock down bar and brackets, especially the one i spotted that had matching chrome back box trim. The combo works with most B/W games to be honest. I'm just not a huge fan of powder coating everything but i must admit that some colours do match up very well on certain machines.

This has most likely already been mentioned but at the end of my first game this evening i spotted a cool little animation of a figure walking through a forest being ghosted by Eddie (Eddie may have been the one in front?, didn't spot it right from the start) Now i thought it was because i had both flipper buttons pressed in at the time but i haven't been able to recreate it again. Anyone know the "secret"?

COOL!!, for some reason i thought it was after the end of game sequence.....well, before the Match animation anyway but it musn't have been.

Added some mods in the past few days. I used a pico size rgb LED for the Clairvoyant globe and very fine wiring (normally used for Lego LED lighting). I did consider drilling the arm to hide the wires but there really isn't much room for error to do that so didn't try and risk it. If i can find a good colour match i'm intending to blend the wire into the blue of her cape at the back. I fully intended the globe to be lit all the time and not connected to the globe underneath, the RGB colour sequence wouldn't match anyway. Piece of mind Eddie isn't exactly where i wanted him but he was never going to fit where the original was, just too tall. I'll most likely adjust where the chains attach also as i have some small eye bolts coming which should look far neater.

Unfortunately my camera washed out the colours on the globe but you can spot the colour changes on the Clairvoyants face and upper torso. These pico leds are damn bright for their size!

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YEP although it's only 1 red LED not 2. The eye holes were drilled from the front to a center point in the back of the head with a smaller bit and then part drilled with a larger bit from the back to expand the hole enough to fit the LED. These figures are a weird consistency inside, more like rubber rather than the plastic i was expecting.

I thought about that but i only wanted to use 1 small LED for the colour change and to make the LED + Wiring as unobtrusive as possible. The colour change sequence in the led would never match the orb colour changes although yeah it would turn on at the same time. I still prefer to have it lit all the time, same with Eddie's eyes

I used the same double sided tape that is used to attach side rails on machines, the figure is light and i didn't want to drill holes in the plastic. It's been rock solid so far and i haven't noticed any movement whilst nudging in play.

I hear what you are saying but i wanted to keep the whole figure as "neat" as possible. IMO i don't think it's necessary to game play to have the Clairvoyant globe match the orb underneath, personal choice

Just for reference here's a pic of the LED used in the Clairvoyant globe with a regular sized match for scale. The LED is inserted into the globe about halfway (facing forwards) with a small drop of superglue applied to the wires at the edge to keep it in place.

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In my experience i've found that RGB LED's only work with a constant DC current, any fluctuation will cause the colour sequence to continually reset to the first colour in the chain (usually red) I'm not positive about this but i think a flasher circuit wouldn't be successful with an RGB. My Clairvoyant mod, Eddie eyes and my LED flipper buttons all run off 12V sourced from the bill validator connector behind the coin door (with a resistor added on the power wire of each of course) I also add small red RC connectors to any of my mods so the mods are easily removable wherever possible.

Nahhh i found them on Ebay, supposedly a US seller but shipped from China they still turned up fairly quickly though.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-60Pcs-9-12V-Pre-Wired-0402-0603-0805-1206-SMD-LED-Diodes-Chip-Warm-White-Red/123087564991?hash=item1ca89730bf:m:m7Xt0NgNkGSXI3rYn8XIBmg:rk:pf:0

Disregard the headphone emoji, link still works, just so happens that part of the link corresponded with the bloody emoji
Choose led type 0805, the smaller types aren't available in RGB and also 9-12V prewired, the rest of the choices are obvious.
I will add that i joined the wiring from another LED (cut off between the LED head and the resistor) so that the resistor attached was underneath the playfield. I'm a bit anal about trying to keep the wiring on mods as unseen and neat as i possibly can.

Loneliness of the short distance flipper is great too

My best game ever the other night, finally cracked into the billion club. On a side note, anyone heard any rumours about an update to the code? Seems a lot of Stern pins are receiving late year code love at the moment.

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It would be awesome to have a topper that's like the Stern one as far as overall looks go BUT have a 3D Eddie head inside the cockpit that moves side to side like the "reworked" Dalek head topper. That would look so cool I do agree though, suits the LE version alone.

Just make space for a 4th machine

New code and best score ever so far, finally got to 2 minutes to midnight mode also BUT duffed it not long after

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Yeah my top right flipper has made the clunk sound straight out of the box, always on the release of the flipper too. I haven't had the chance to open the hood lately to suss it out but have been meaning to.

Errrmmm can we get back to talking about our Iron Maiden pinnies? I don't give a rats scrotum about the LOTR machine, partly cause i don't own one and mostly cause this is the WRONG club thread

I think you will find that was said and meant in the Aussie vernacular! Not meant as a put down in the slightest, more a compliment!

Could have been me Before i even added my Neca figure to the machine i was thinking...... "Ohhhh yeahhh that will work"

You won't regret it, TOP game

Anyone got the Pinball Life real knocker kit on their machine and know what the setting needs to be changed to? I seem to have misplaced the instruction sheet that came with the kit and the last time the pin was updated the setting reverted back to normal Geez i hate that digital screech, bloody shocking

Found it and pretty close Adjustment 51 in standard adjustments. Coin meter > Knocker > Ticket Dispenser, set it to knocker and done. Cheers

I didn't even realise mine had stopped working, maybe i need to stop having bourbon whilst playing
I saw it match just recently and no delightful crack so that sussed me onto it
All good now

Each to their own....BUT WTF??
I can't for the life of me imagine playing Maiden without hearing Maiden tunes!!
Would you buy a Beatles pin and use Eminem C-Rap?
I don't mean to start a tunes fight in this thread honest, just seems weird that someone would buy an Iron Maiden machine specifically and want to change all the music, makes no sense to me.

At 4mm thick wouldn't that be a fairly tight fit between the cab side and the PF? Possibly tear/knock it off whenever you lift up to do some service? I like the idea though

Been a little while since i've had the hood up on my machine so i can't visually recall the gap but is it possible to attach a small piece to the back of the mech bracket itself?

Ordered this >> https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DYNAMAT-XTREME-SPEAKER-KIT-SHEET-PACK-10415-SOUND-DEADENING-CAR-BODY-DOOR-10/400835417349?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Very similar to what you linked but only about 1.1mm thick. Should have it tomorrow so when i get the chance later in the day i'll add a piece to the back of the mech (perhaps double up on it) and report back. Hopefully it will make a significant difference

No worries at all I've been thinking about this today at work and whether there's a better way to go about this. One idea i was toying with was to create a "barrier", probably out of thin acrylic sheet (say 2mm) that could screw onto the bottom of the PF, perhaps using the existing rail screws to attach it with. This would sit parallel with the edge of the PF but not flush with the edge, so basically as close to the mech as physically possible and then use the Dynamat sound deadening on both sides of the acrylic sheet. I would make the acrylic sheet perhaps 30cm long (depends where the rail screws are situated) so it may be much more effective having that larger surface area to block the sound. As mentioned before i'm not keen to attach a piece of the Dynamat to the cab sides cause i'm damn sure it would wreck the paint if removed. Ideas???

Holy Smoke!
Bring your daughter to the slaughter!

Congrats on the Pro with a Premium translite? awesome game Left handed drinker??

I haven't had any issues with my Premium as far as either Newton balls or the Sarcophagus lock are concerned nor have i had much issue with the auto ball launch, still works at least 90% of the time which i think is in acceptable parameters. I've had more failures with the manual ball launch, as far as not making it around the loop but after a bit of adjustment and putting on my own Eddie head shooter rod that's much better. Perhaps i haven't put in as many games, in 9 months since purchase like some of the guys in the club (last time i looked it was 575 games) but certainly haven't noticed any playfield issues so far. This is my first NIB Stern so definitely can't comment on past build quality or comparisons but so far the machine has been solid. Mine, like a lot of the Aussie delivered machines, weren't first machines off the rank as far as i'm aware and already had the wing type leg bolt mounts inside and also had the pointed newton ball shaft already in it. I LOVE the game, just so much fun to play + i LOVE Iron Maiden songs so that's a double bonus in my book

Must admit i found it hard when i first got my machine but over time it's gotten "easier" Sometimes you can gauge the shot by watching where the ball is on the right flipper before activating. I would call backhand shots, left flipper-left ramp, right flipper-right ramp more in the the luck category though

I'll be honest, it's not blowing my hair back...... having said that it absolutely doesn't matter what i or anyone else thinks of the colour, main thing is that YOU like it I'm wondering if the colour differences between the photos is more the camera and the angles the shots are taken from which is directly due to where the light is coming from in relation to the camera itself. I take photos of a lot of my Cymbidium Orchids (yeah go figure, the metal loving pinny head digs flowers too ) and the colours in the photos can quite often be totally different than the reality, all down to the amount/lack of light and the angle of the shot.

Although i wasn't have as much issue with the auto plunge as i had been with manual plunge this has made a big difference i must say. Anyone having issues with the auto plunge try THIS first before moving the ball guide, changing this changing that, waxing on waxing off etc etc At least you can always change the setting back to where you had it if there's no change to the problem. Worked for me and i hadn't tried any of the other suggestions that have been made in this thread

Me too but i haven't added them as yet.

Going off your description i would guess that your switch stack screws could perhaps be loose, usually the spoon part of the switch shouldn't move around very much at all. Different flipper same issue though

If you get one from AMD, let me know please as may need to enquire about one myself.

It was a little tricky to get in and took some extra patience for sure but i managed mine. I followed the same vid guide i believe.

Think i backed off the screws to the guides a little bit from memory, not all of them, just the couple that are at the back. This definitely helped but it still took me a while to pop the protector in there. This being my first NIB i was being super bloody careful not to scratch the PF with the edges of the Cliffy.

Has there be any whispers for when the next code update is coming?? Seemed to be some stirring a while back but nothing happened

He sure is!!! had to place mine in a similar area

I did spot these but the design doesn't really blow what's left of my hair back. My thoughts are that despite being heavier vinyl decals, in those particularly extra heavy traffic areas the decals won't last the punishment.

Yep, totally agree!! And it's also relevant to mention that the decals on plastic ramps are underneath the ramp for a reason

Would that not make the flipper sit a bit higher up though? as the linkage wouldn't be going back as far as the flat bump stops?

YUP!!!!

That's the way i usually do it ...... mostly by accident

I do like the blue wireform but i think if i was going to go down that path i would do both the same colour, purely a personal choice of course

I was wondering wtf that was all about.

Got a few small jobs to do
Big shout out to Michael and the guys at AMD for a no fuss response to my query about the protector and some replacement head box rubber stops, no need for pics of the offending mylar area it was just YUP!!, and posted toot sweet express post
Anyone know how to access the rubber stops for the head box? still got the busted off tabs of rubber stuck in the holes.

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Yeah had tickets to this too but at least it's postponed not completely canceled, hopefully will be on again sometime later this year. I was pretty keen to see Killswitch also, never had the opportunity to see them live although i do prefer Howard as the man up front. BTW if you get into HJ's stuff check out his band Light The Torch

Post No #4493, Page 90
It did make a difference, still think about 20-25% reduction.

I'm yet to be convinced that having a shaker motor is beneficial in the long term. I've played a few machines with them and do agree it adds to the experience but i guess i'm more concerned that over time it's going to loosen screws, vibrate parts, etc. Is there any evidence out there that suggests one way or the other from long term use?

Ok, well you buggers convinced me to install a shaker motor so if the machine starts coming apart i'm posting out destruction bills to Y'all
Liking it so far although i think others comments are reasonably accurate, i feel the code needs a tweak for a bit more interaction. And yup, set on Maximal using a Pinball Life shaker.

True, and i do agree with that yes. A lot more constant would be overkill. It just seems to have noticeably less interaction than a mates Metallica machine? I would have expected a similar amount for Maiden.

That's a sure sign to me that the issue is mechanical and not electrical (as in a shorted coil, etc)

I think the premium option is the best middle ground and not just for the obvious reason that it's the middle choice of 3 The LE option on Sterns is more about what i would term the "wank factor" In other words it's the BLING version of premium, same PF, same game play and game play options but with added......wank. Don't shoot me i'm an Aussie that's under Corona stress and drinking too much bourbon to calm the nerves

DOOOD i've been drinking FFS don't pop off so many shots in a hurry i can only duck so many in my fragile state

I get ball hang ups at the drops too but i also have the Cliffy installed there which i think makes the situation worse, been thinking about removing it. Anyone else got the Cliffy there and have the same issue?

Yep that's sort of what happens with mine although sometimes the middle target is dropped and the ball sits in between the top and bottom or both top targets have dropped and sitting like that. Your bank does appear lower than mine but it could be trick of the camera and angle of the shot. But with the Cliffy installed there's a very slight height difference and the ball seems to get stuck on the back edge of it. It's getting late here so i will set up what mine does and snap a pic of it later today. With the Cliffy issue i sure have to shake or pop the machine with some force to budge the ball sometimes hence why i'm considering removing it.

TOTALLY agree!!! I've always felt there's a bit too much emphasis on achieving high scores at the expense of just having some good ol' fun playing the machine. I'm definitely not dissn' the people who are more score minded though Each to their own but the welcome distraction from life's daily serve of shite is what makes me happy with Maiden

Agree..speaking of code!!! do i have to wait til i'm old for the long awaited update?? scratch that.. already old Old and Krusty then??

You know, i was thinking about this recently and the only thing i could think of that "may" be feasible is an arcade joystick style arrangement rather than the stupid spoon style thingy. So basically you would have 4 micro switches arranged around the end of the newton ball shaft, set in close so they would pick up fine movement. I have no idea if this would work though, may not be sensitive enough, may not be able to be adapted to the wiring, may just be a totally stupid F*&^* idea BTW that link no worky for me

Cheers!! I'm pretty sure i could come up with a bracket that would hold the micro switches in position and it would be a trial and error thing exactly where the bracket would sit. Obviously at the very end of the shaft there will be more lateral movement than in the center and would come down to the room available to do the mechanical side of it. Wiring it into the system is a little beyond my capabilities All 4 switches may not be able to be linked together to trigger the same as the existing one switch? With a joystick of course the 4 switches register separately within the system. Hoping some of the more tech minded in the club can chime in with this. @vireland?

I made a set of 3D flipper toppers for my machine recently, was originally hoping to add a pharaoh Eddie but it just wouldn't have fit on the flipper within the same scale as the others Machine pics show the prototypes i started with but i have tweaked the paint jobs and the antennas on the cyber Eddie. The original antennas are fine gauge hook up wire but ended up going with fishing line that has been super glued on and also sunk into tiny holes using a 0.7mm drill bit. These were totally my own design and cast from molds i made with liquid plastic and then hand finished, painted and detailed.
I'm really happy with how they turned out!!

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They were made so they wouldn't overhang any part of the flipper bat, lengthwise and width wise and more to the point some protection from ball strikes. Towards the end of the topper the plastic becomes a lot thinner as they not only get narrower but are created to taper towards the tips. It's purely a decision to make them somewhat less prone to getting snapped off over time although having said that i had the original JD bats on my machine for nearly 5 years with no issues.

I've had a couple of requests for the flipper topper set i made and i did actually make 14 sets in total after i completed the proto types that were in the machine pics. I've got these listed on Fleabay but i would do them somewhat cheaper outside of there, the sellers fee's are BS really at 10% cut, not to mention they also take a cut from the postage price these days
Hit me up in PM if anyone is interested and i'll supply details, etc.
I sold a few already locally from a pinball FB page i'm on and currently down to 11 sets. Not sure when i will do more once these are gone as i will need to redo the molds due to a resin fark up with the originals

snapped the shaft....like WOW!!
Should be able to just undo those 2 nuts and remove that lower plate i'm guessing but never had to change mine.

Looks to be the same as my premium yup.

Thanks to Thomo666 for sending me pics of the flipper topper set i designed/made. The machine photos i put up in an earlier post were of the prototypes which were altered slightly during the painting phase. I started with 14 sets and i'm now down to 8 so if anyone is interested then you're welcome to PM me for details. As mentioned previously i will sell these somewhat less than they are listed on Ebay. Here's the link to the Ebay listing if anyone wants to check it out on there.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/143726444757?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

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I remember someone posting about the robot Eddie's guns sagging, from memory cause they are close to a light source. I don't recall the piece of mind Eddie sagging though.

Cheers Guys. much appreciate the kind words and great to know that you dig them

Could be the connection with the socket?

Swap a known working flasher with the suspect one first, it will be the same voltage being a flasher and might save an order perhaps?

You are NEVER too old to branch out your musical tastes!!
I am a co host/starter of a tunes session on a chat site that is run every Sunday evening (my time) and there are people from a few different countries that join in every week. You get the chance to hear things that you may not investigate yourself on youtube, etc and quite often i find myself thinking..."How did i not get into this before???" I must admit i've always had reasonably broad tastes in music but the past 6 years i have gone places i would never have imagined musically

Looks very cool but could be too brittle for a shooter rod handle in 3D printed plastic, especially the front piece. Nice job though!!

It looks very cool and doesn't come across as out of place in the scheme of the machine!! I'd be nervous about adding it to my machine as i've had some weird air balls every now and then that have hit high on the target, above it and definitely either side also. I just get the feeling the chin piece will be vulnerable but absolute kudo's for giving it a crack and trying something different. I do reckon they would turn out awesome looking painted by a skilled hand too

I know it's been suggested many times to swap the yellow T- Molding to another colour on the premium but to be honest with this topper it just WORKS!!!

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So what does that mean anyway?

Locked - loaded - playing

The file size was definitely only 2GB!!

Post #4493 on page 90.
It made some difference, perhaps 20-25% but if you're looking to totally get rid of the sound then i'm not sure that will be possible. I was going to make a flat panel to attach to the PF underneath, to go in between the outside edge of the PF and the back of the coil stop but never got around to it. The plan was to coat both sides of the panel with the same deadening material but TBH there's bugger all room and i'm not positive the results would be much better.

This has been brought up many times yeah and there's no definite solution to hand as yet. I did put some car sound deadening material on the back of the coil bracket which helped somewhat but not enough (Post #4493 on page 90). A recent poster mentioned that the bracket touches the slide rail and TBH i didn't think it was close enough to touch it. I just looked at the mech and with the deadening material attached it most definitely does touch the metal slide rail. I have some of the Delrin sliders coming in the post from Pinball Life which should be here within a week, hoping that might help to deaden the sound also, will report back to the thread when changed over

Plunger hitting the coil stop is normal but because the outside edge of the stop bracket is touching the metal slide rail it's 'echoing' to the cab itself..well that's the theory anyway When i spotted the Delrin slide rails at Pinball Life i thought maybe, just maybe, it would help to reduce the sound a little more. Again it's a theory but i'm guessing that metal to metal contact will transfer the sound better than metal (and in the case of my machine, wrapped in sound deadening material) to the Delrin (plastic). Either way the sliders sound a better option so not a total waste if the results are bugger all. I will shoot a before and after vid with the camera in the same spot to see if that will pick up any obvious sound difference.

I do find balls hang up on the inside edge fairly frequently, usually if the center target has dropped but the lower one is still up I've been meaning to remove it but haven't got around to it yet.

Think i like the lighter one better also. A useful technique for the mummy wrapping would be dry brushing or "weathering", something that is fairly easy to do and is used in military scale model painting. This will achieve that kind of dirty look you are chasing.