Quoted from chuckcasey:

Yes, that's the goal on an auto plunge.
And to get the SUPER SKILL shot you need to hold the left flipper up (which disables the normal skill shot)
Some have been increasing plunger spring to RED or ORANGE to help pinpoint SUPER SKILL.
Has everyone seen the "Backstage Pass" guide from Stern: http://sternpinball.com/upload/games/iron-maiden/pro/IM%20Backstage%20Pass%20Rules.pdf

Quoted from chuckcasey:

Removed the pharaoh plastic, cut out a piece of red cadrstock to match the shape, cut out some eyes and the results are great. Removed the bleed over from the target light and lit the eyes. What do you think?

Quoted from gliebig:

For the super skill shot, when you hold the left flipper, is the top lane post supposed to pop up to stop the ball? Sometimes my launch continues all the way around and sometimes it drops back to the little flipper. Didn't know if its just a momentum thing or that post is supposed to stop it and send it back.

Quoted from Guinnesstime:

Finally got the McFarlane figures the way I like and plenty stable.

Quoted from Gryszzz:

Anybody make any b'dass custom cards yet?
I actually need a set for MET, ACDC, and Maiden. Not a big deal (obviously), but gettin a little tired of the bright yellow stock ones.

Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Armor im working on for my Premium i have on order. I call it pharrohs gold. Hit me up if youd like a set done

Quoted from stevevt:

No interlock switch on Spike games. Flipper power remains on when you open the coin door.

Quoted from Fezmid:

What's the coin door ball save?

Quoted from stevevt:

What's wrong with this?
open the coin door, remove the glass, free a stuck ball, put it on a flipper being held up (or in the shooter lane), replace glass, close the coin door

Quoted from Alby:

Mine too, auto plunge is perfect 100% to the time , had to adjust manual plunge slightly, also cliffy shooter lane protector was affecting as it i had created a lip and the ball was hitting it. Moved it and plunging is perfect.

Quoted from TimeBandit:

Sorry, they're not $2, they're 50 cents.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-pcs-Ultra-Small-Size-DC-DC-Step-Down-Power-Supply-Module-3A-Adjustable-Buck-Converter/32261885063.html[quoted image]

Quoted from Rob_G:

I'm looking for more subtle lighting improvements on the game. Any ideas? Not pinstadium though...
Rob

Quoted from manadams:

May be picking up a HUO pro this weekend, any common issues the on the pro that I should lookout for?

Quoted from javagrind888:

Is IM Premium a SAM, SPIKE, or SPIKE2? I have a Coin Taker shaker without the proper connector and Coin Taker is asking which one I need so they can send me the correct cable.

Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

I actually tried to cancel the mezel ones before they shipped as I had already seen vic's a few days later.
They both arrived today.
Vics goes on my machine (I dont get mine until Tuesday)
Mezel goes in my spare parts bin I guess.
Between my Metallica and my Iron Maiden, mezel sure has sent me some garbage. Most of my Metallica order had to be replaced or couldn't be replaced (looking at you 3d snake that doesnt fit properly. Thanks again mezel. I'm out.
Vic's(left) mezel(right)
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Quoted from Delta9:

Imo i think it blocks the spinner // relocation is needed plus change the blue light to red

Quoted from pindude80:

I just picked up a used IMDN premium over the weekend and am loving it so far. I want to add a shaker to it. I was thinking of getting one from Pinball Life or Stern depending on their price. I checked Stern's site but couldn't find them. Does anyone know how much the Stern shaker motor is? Has anyone used the Pinball Life shaker in a Spike 2 game, if so did you have any problems or how did you like it?

Quoted from bigdaddy07:

I had to make some changes to my settings since the upgrade to 1.06, as the sound was off with my old settings. This is with FF 10" kit.
Master Volume – 42
Balance – -3
Backbox – 8ohm
Backbox bass freq – 125hz
Backbox bass gain - 1.5db
Backbox treble freq – 4khz
Backbox treble gain - +3db
Cabinet speaker type – 8ohm
Cabinet bass freq – disabled
Cabinet bass gain - +11.25db
Cabinet treble freq – disabled
Cabinet treble gain – 3.375
Music attenuation - 2

Quoted from PinMonk:

I *think* that's just disabling the crossover points.

Quoted from Bohdi:

FINALLY joined the club, and it's been a long time coming. Best Stern I've played yet. Love this game. What are the must have mods and protectors etc for it? Side art blades vs side mirrors too is what I can't decide??
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Quoted from parsonsaj:

I have an odd problem with my Pro since this weekend's work on it. After installing a Laseriffic topper and putting in a clear shooter lane protector, I have 2 new behaviors that I suspect have a common cause (though I don't know what that cause could be!):
1) The ability to pick the song using the flipper buttons persists until well after the ball has been launched and points have been scored. Previously, once any switch had been contacted hitting the flipper button would not change the song selection.
2) The autolaunch is slow to launch balls whenever there is a multiball started. The ball will just sit there in the shooter lane for a couple of seconds now before being launched. Previously it was almost instantaneous whenever there was a need for a ball to be autoplunged.
Anyone have any ideas what could be causing this new behavior? The game works perfectly fine otherwise and Lord knows I'm getting a lot of games in on it.

Quoted from Bohdi:

Much appreciated. Pretty sure i know, but want to make dam sure before turning it on. Thanks>>>

Quoted from Bohdi:

They sent instructions. Just had one picture, and it was hard to tell because the setup was a little different. Since the writing on the interface board is upside down, does that mean i'm connecting the connector "upside" down with the wires coming from above? Hate to sound so stupid, but i'm so new to Sterns and mods in general

Quoted from Bohdi:

Are there 2 different Orb mods? 1 that is interactive, and 1 that stays lit all the time? I found 1 for 20.00 and another for 46.00. Just curious what the difference is and which one people are buying.

Quoted from Bohdi:

I have the orb mod from Lermods and really think it adds a lot for not much really being there and going on. It's like a frosted glass and you can pick your color. I chose purple and love it. Breeze to install too. Think the interactive coffin lock mod is a must add-on as well..

Quoted from boogies:

Any suggestions for Mirror Blades?
I see that the IMDN has a recessed backbox bolt; is there a manufacture for that has a Mirror blade that fits well?

Quoted from boogies:

I'm assuming the Stern DMD model, with the hole for the back box hinges?

Quoted from flynnibus:

Up next.. some more color...
The pinball life LED flipper kits. I've always liked their kits, and they've changed a bit over time... but still a great kit for the $. Has the built in controller and everything you need for an easy install.
From inside...
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From outside...
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Color picked for my premium scheme..
Now here's a tip.. because of the brightness of the LEDs and room around the apron... there usually is a lot of light leakage that is really distracting around the apron. Simply take some electrical tape and hood over the top half of the button to block the light. Make sure you don't obstruct the flipper plunger itself.. but beyond that, just place a piece or two to block the light.
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And now no light leakage!
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Up next.. on many games I like the trough illuminated.. but I wasn't sure on Maiden.. but I tried a yellow (because it's mostly orange) and a red. I like the cointaker strips because
1) They are cheap $5
2) They give you all the various adaptors you might need to steal a light socket or clip on.
Because all the lower GI bulbs are relatively hard to get to on the premium as they are under the flipper plates, etc.. I decided to jump off the GI that is under the apron itself. Because it's the LED boards.. most of the adaptors don't work, and aligator clips had high risk of shorting or slipping off. So instead, I snipped the socket off one of the adaptors.. and just easily tacked the wires to the solder pads on the LED board.
[quoted image]
This made it easy to plug in or change the strip if I wanted. On older games I would attach the LED strip to the vertical back of the outhole.. but I tried sticking it directly to the underside of the apron this time. It's decent.. but sometimes you can see the LED reflection if you stand over the PF. I'm 50/50 on the red on the premium here.. but have left it so far.
Up next was the LERMods Spitfire. The model looks good. Mounting it can be a bit fiddly though.
First, the two light sockets attached to the post stock, don't give a lot of room for play. Second, the stock screw didn't want to screw in fully and tight into the post. This meant when layering the plane in the stack under the screw.. It would not hold the plane in position.. and the wires of the light sockets constantly wanted to push the plane where I didn't want it. The solution was to add a washer to the stack, which tightened up the screw's hold on the layers.. and clipping the factory zip tie on the light sockets to bend the wires a good bit so they stopped bullying the plane around. Once tightened up and in position.. new zip ties held the wires in place. The harness feeds under the plastic and ramp... which was harder than it felt it should be.. but isn't bad, just annoying as my fat hands couldn't really reach the hole. The included cabling and connectors are easy and well done. Once installed, I checked it out...
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For the premium.. the red was a bit too much IMO.. I really wish I had some brightness control wired in (which in theory can be done downstream of the mod). Here it was on the PF.. and with the red in the plane off.
On
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Off
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I opt'd to leave it off. Maybe in the future I'll experiment with a in-line controller to dim the red underwing lights.
Next?? How about some art..
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Now here is where Spike is so much nicer. To install the art blades.. it's easiest on Spike just to remove the PF all together. All I had to do was free up the Cat5 cable in the cable loom (so cut three zip ties), and unplug 3 connectors. Then with the handle at the back and the apron... even an old dude with a broken back like me was able to lift the PF out and sit on the floor easily all by myself.
These are the album art blades by Tilt Graphics. Normally I'm a pingraphix guy.. but the art on these is fantastic and work so well with the game. Installing was easy. Just make sure to undo the two PF guides on the inside of the cabinet (as they will be in your way by about 1/2"). Just undo one side and rotate them down. With the PF out.. its easy to install the art blades without any fancy staging or prep.
Just peel from backing... With one hand, start the rear piece about 1/2" from the cabinet bolt and align the top of graphic right near, but not over the top edge of the wood. Tack up just the top edge, and with your other hand, try to align the top edge of the decal about 1/3 of the way down the cabinet with the top edge of the cabinet again.. Readjust as needed to get the blade tacked up and straight without any bows or folds. Don't push it all down yet! The blade will easily come right off if you only stick a small portion to start. Get the top 1/3 or so aligned, and just tacked up about the top 1" of the blade.. keep it straight and move down to align the rest of the blade towards the flipper end of the cabinet. Don't push the whole thing down until you are sure your top 1/2 or more is straight.. as it plays out all the way down to the flippers. When it looks good, start at one end, work your way down flattening the decal to the cabinet from the top end.. then work your way down to the flipper area. Free up the decal if needed to avoid any bows or wrinkles. If the top end is secured nice and square.. you can free up the far end of the decal and just work your way down the cabinet.. ensuring its flat and in the right spot as you go.
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I did have pinstadiums in the game.. so I pulled the magnets off before installing the art blades.. They still stayed nice and sticky. I cleaned the cabinet walls with naptha to remove any left over gum before installing the blades too.
While I had the cabinet broke down a bit.. I wanted to tackle some cabinet issues I had. Prior seller had removed the head hinge bolts to move the game (bad) and lost some of the hardware. So when I picked up the game, the head was loose. I secured it, but not well enough apparently and the head rubbed and took some of the paint off the metal hinge at the base of the head.
So I masked off the area.. and did some touchup with some Rustoleum Satin black.
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Results are great... you can't even see the repair here
[quoted image]
And it's only visible under real direct light due to the nature of a paint chip
Once the art blades are installed... these are a must! https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
The price sucks.. but father's day is coming up, ask for a set for your gift. They work reallly well.
So plopped those on the cabinet.. and I dropped the PF back in myself and reconnected the wires.
With the art installed... I reinstalled the pinstadium lights. I set the magnets on the brackets so I made sure I had the correct orientation of the magnet strip to the light strip. Then simply aligned the led strip on the cabinet wall where I wanted them... sitting right near the top so you can't see any art at the top edge to distract your eye.. and still under the glass. With the blade positioned... I simply slide the led strip off the magnet strip.. and then with pressure with my fingers, just worked the magnet strip back and forth so it stuck well to the cabinet side. I let that setup a bit.. then put the LED strips back up.
And now she's all back together and boosted!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

Another mod question. Has anybody installed the backboard lighting kit from Cointaker? I have the LED’s in place and the cord end doesn’t plug into anything on the board behind the speaker panel. See pictures below, but the male end of the cord from the LED strip doesn’t match any connector on that board. [quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from rai:

Hello got a Maiden pro loaded with tons of mods.
I’m gonna need to read up on the rules some. Kinda lost in the dark at the moment. [quoted image]
[quoted image]

Quoted from ahdelarge:

Orange metallic powder coat? Looks amazing!
I got some legs and rails powder coated at a small place in my city, but he said that it was too expensive to keep metallic colours. I need to find another powder coater. Do you have the brand or colour name for the orange metallic?
Thanks!
Adam.

Quoted from Bohdi:

Does the plane interfere at all with the arch when there both installed? I've been wanting the lighted arch, and possibly a plane also. Not sure if i want or need both. Just that the from Rods is more expensive. But that was my thought like you did, get the one from Rods which mounts in the left corner, then the arch is free and clear and no clutter

Quoted from Bohdi:

So, if it was to be mounted in the back left, it can still be interactive if desired correct?

Quoted from MikeS:

There should be t-nuts already on the inside-left front of the cabinet. You don't need to drill holes.

Quoted from NightTrain:

I'll have to double check tonight. I looked in there and never saw them, which I thought was really odd.

Quoted from Gogdog:

Ditto....really easy to just alligator clip some speaker wire directly to the sub and then out a vent in the back to the polk.

Quoted from Anony:

I'm getting my very first pin next week and it's going to be Iron Maiden. Very fun game.
Question though, I drive a Subaru Forester and have about 31.5 inches clearance from the bed to the roof. Do you think I'm good for transporting it with the backbox folded down? The seller thinks I'll have an inch clearance and I'm not sure if I should just rent a pickup instead of chancing it.

Quoted from Kkoss24:

Alert to all the pro owners !!! It’s a must for any IMDN pinball machine .
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Quoted from Ceemunkey:

I have the backboard on the way (for a premium) but I do have a LED strip ordered just in case the back of the game looks a bit dark. However, I'm also curious as to where the best place would be to mount the LED strip. Along the backboard, or at the top of the cabinet above it (which would be a bit of a problem with cabling attached to any GI lighting when you want to take the playfield out)? Has anyone added an led strip and can suggest a good mount spot?

Quoted from Anony:

This thing was a bit of a pain to install on the pro but boy does it look cool. It's a little dark on the pro though since you lose all of the backboard GI. I need to figure out where I can mount an LED strip to light up that back area of the playfield.
Can anyone tell me if the polarity matters for the GI sockets for these games, or can I solder in another socket in any orientation?
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Quoted from NoSkills:

Has anyone done anything other than red for powder coating on the pro? Pics please!

Quoted from prentice:

Looks like a great choice, good work and design!
I too have Lior's backboard, so amazing. Although now my 2d mummy is the sore thumb on mine; I actually put myself on the list 2 years ago for Gus, not even having an IM, but pulled myself off and didn't get IM until just recently.
Trying to find a DIY 3d-print or other alternative for that Gus mummy.

Quoted from k_kush:

For those of you that have installed the Lermods Pharaoh Eyes Light Kit, I was looking at the instructions and had a few questions....
1. While the instructions don't say so, I assume I need to remove the plastic with the Pharaoh graphic in order to place the new LED behind it? Correct?
2. Do I just adhere the new LED on the plastic piece behind the plastic piece with the Pharaoh graphic and line it up behind the eyes on the front plastic?
3. Is there supposed to be a mask or piece that directs the light to the eyes only? Mine only came with the light strip w/ wiring and an alcohol swab to clean the area where the light strip is attached.
Thanks!