Iron Maiden: Legacy of the Beast (LE)
Stern, 2018
Iron Maiden: Legacy of the Beast (Premium)
Stern, 2018
Iron Maiden: Legacy of the Beast (Pro)
Stern, 2018You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ExSquid.
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Joining the club! Order placed for a premium without first playing it. Going in sight unseen. Huge maiden fan and after a year of reading how everyone loves it and watching videos I went all in! Was waiting to see about Godzilla but I can’t pass this opportunity up. Can’t wait !!!! 
Quoted from ShrimpPimp:Our IM Premium is supposed to arrive tomorrow having placed our order back in March. It's really a surprise for my wife's 50th Birthday which is later this month. I'm going in blind on this one having never played it but I've watched a few videos.
Wife got me a GOTG for my 50th a few weeks ago now I’m obsessed with all of this .Haha. Ugh!
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Theme aside, it’s a safe buy sight unseen. Tremendous shooter (easy top 5 for me), unless you just don’t like hard games.
The more difficult the better if it’s going to last. This and JAWS is a dream theme for me.
Quoted from PinMonk:Yes, but people can't let Jaws go for some reason.
All the Stern code names since they started doing them are here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-will-be-the-next-stern-pinball-machine/page/415#post-6482253
Let what go? I’m talking about the movie note code words . I can still dream it will happen. Cool list btw I never knew !
Man the only thing worrying me about this is the amount of issues people seem to have with this game. I’m mechanically clueless so I’m just crossing my fingers and hope everything works when it gets here. Very cool people helping each other out here though so I have some piece of mind.
Quoted from Bundy:Usually not a good thing when owning a pinball machine
They all require tinkering at some point.
Eh , I’ve had stern help me with my GOTG so far with a few things so I’m confident I can somewhat get talked through whatever it is. Most people don’t know how to fix their cars / boats and most other things they have, so I’ll figure it out when I’m cornered into it and have no option but to.
Quoted from Thorne:Lucky.
How the heck did you get yours when you ordered it a week ago and still no word of mine shipping when I ordered mine in February?
Does anybody have insight into how stern decides to send out their pins?
no idea man, i don't know how it works either.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:You could easily fit two more pins in there when you get rid of the Golden Tee.
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//]]>Other than IM is bad ass, that was my first thought - is there a rehab for this addiction?
Hahah yup Deadpool is going there come January “ hopefully” . Trying to sell the golden tee as we speak !
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:Does it register in the switch test? Does it work when you manually press it? Did you lift the pf and double check for loose connection or lose wires?
Nothing happens when I hit it by hand. It was working for the first hour of play today.the switch says it’s ok in the menu.
Should I loosen the screw and bring it down more? No loose wires I can see of.
BA8484D9-D0AF-46D2-A082-DA98CCF88D47 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from TrekTobbyGermany:The Hex-metal-part came loose and now pushes the switch down permanently.
The “ pole/screw “ thing that goes into the ball? I tightened that up all the way. Same thing is still happening .
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:How exactly does one search for "pole/screw" thing though? It not an exactly a specific question.
In the time it took you to tell him that, you could have linked what you are talking about instead. Not everyone who likes pinball is familiar with internet forum tools. Myself included.
Thank you, I’m still learning most of this and probably sound like an idiot trying to describe the problems I’m having with my 2 machines when I do have them. But again I’m still learning and would like to get my hands dirty trying to fix things myself.
Quoted from damageinc55:See the stack of leaf switches (circled)? Those should not be touching. As the newton gets hit, that pole is going to wiggle inside that little plastic cup. As it is hit and shifts positions, it should close those leaf switches.
Try getting that pole at a perfect height so those leaf switches are not touching when it is at rest, but VERY close so that when it gets hit, they close.
Hope this helps.[quoted image]
Thanks had a friend stop by and that's what he did. So far so good!! But we couldn't figure out why the right flipper is scoring points for no reason, like when I hit the start button to start a game 2 "EDDIE" letters get collected immediately and then the right flipper every time its pressed scores points even without shooting the ball into the playfield. Very frustrating and weird.
Quoted from Mancave:That's usually from the newton ball adjustment being too close which makes it SUPER sensitive from vibration, in this case from the flipper mech
ugh, so I finally have it working but its still not enough? When you say to close, do you mean the screw? Because that's as tight as can be.
Quoted from Mancave:Totally true!! but to be more precise the 2 blades closest to the plastic piece that has the cup on the end shouldn't be touching, the bottom blade/leaf is the adjuster for tension (for want of a better term)</blockquote
You'll want to make sure you know which switch is firing when you hit the flipper. In the diagnostics, you should look for a switch test. It's basically a mode that will show exactly which switch is being pressed. Once you're there, hit the flipper to determine which one is firing. If it's the newton ball, you'll need to go back and gap those leaf switches a bit more. It needs to be enough gap so that it doesn't touch with vibration, but not too much gap that it closes with vibration.
Ok ill check it when I get some time later thanks.
So on top of all the other problems I'm having , I was scrolling through the menu and hit the wrong button on the settings and set " easy mode" on! I put it back on " medium" because I'm guessing that's what it was originally set as. Anyone know what the factory default is? Also what the heck is "home mode"? Is that super easy or something? 
EDIT: also Directors cut?
Quoted from damageinc55:Yeah, go with medium. That's what mine is on. Not sure where you saw directors cut, but sounds interesting
//<![CDATA[
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//]]>You can always reset factory defaults if you don't care about your scores
7B493906-1466-4995-A377-EC96F7B08603 (resized).jpegQuoted from metallik:Hard, medium, directors cut, etc. are just collections of settings that are all configured at once when you run that install. The install can change anything in the game and standard adjustments. For example, the "hard" install might adjust all mode times to be shorter, ballsavers to off, etc.
Install a setting, then scroll through all the standard and game adjustments to see which were changed from the factory setting. You can always change individual settings to other values without affecting the others; the "install" shown above is just a macro to configure a bunch of settings at once.
If you want to see what different installs do, I'd recommend installing factory between each one just to be sure everything resets correctly.
Wow nice! Thanks for the heads up.After being out for a few years I wish there was a spreadsheet somewhere showing the differences.
Quoted from PinballHaven:As someone stated above, you can scroll through settings on all the modern stern machines after installing your level of choice and it tells you what is (factory) and what’s is adjusted in the menu. Strange they never documented that in the manual!
Yeah I don't get it either.
Quoted from MikeSinMD:What is the latest code for this game? On the pinside page for this game it says v1.06.0. My brand new Maiden premium has v1.08.0. Just curious. I would hope that a new game has the new code, but you never know. Got it in the house last night, unboxed, and fired up. Hoping to get it all set up tonight and get a few games on her. Thanks! Mìke
Got mine last Friday, has 1.08 on it.
Quoted from BubbaPin:New balls. Reputation for the ones stern sends out is not good. I would order some "super shiney" or "ninja" balls for this game seeing how it has like zero magnets.
Just got mine almost two weeks ago and I've replaced coil stops and balls as preempive measures.
Rubbers would be good to have on hand, I'm interested to see how this game performs with titan silicon rubbers. I usually get titans for my games and you can customize the color of the set out to your taste as well as specific O.D. and I.D. for certain rubbers ( this being flippers and mini post) to your play taste.
Cliffy protectors I usually put my games aswell. I haven't done it yet, they help with wear at certain high wear areas.
Shooter lane protector? I've never done this beside the metal cliffy shooter lane protector, I've been interested in the mylar ones but not sure.
If your not familiar clean and wax your playfeild every 100-300 plays, I use naphtha to clean and hard carnuba to wax.
Ninja balls bad for magnet games? I have them in my GOTG . They work great.
Quoted from BubbaPin:That's what I heard. My experience is they worked great in my last action hero, but did not last long in my spiderman. Spiderman has a magnet that will hold it for a pretty long amount of time compared to LAH which quickly push and pulls the balls. The balls I ended up going with for spiderman were a set that ball baron makes that is better suited for games with alit of magnet use.
The only downside I had to using ninjas is that in spiderman they magnetized pretty quickly, like 40 games in. Them being magnetized affected gameplay with the doc oct hole and caused ball search errors due to balls sticking together.
For most games I'd say ninjas are the way to go, but would not use them in games like AIQ, BSD, or SM, which has constant 2 second plus magnet use per magnet grab.
Again iron maiden equals zero magnets so ninjas are great.
Yeah I'm not quite sure either but I have them in both games and they are awesome.
So how many balls does the Sarcophagus supposed to lock? Once I get one in there it looks like another one is supposed to get dropped into it but when that happens the sarcophagus doesn’t lift up and the ball just gets dropped on top of it and the ball just kinda falls wherever. So it’s only 1 that gets locked in there next to the Newton ball. I’m at a loss. Maybe that’s how it’s supposed to be? Just got the game a week ago .
Quoted from starbase:Keith said early on that they could code another ball but it is made for just one currently. It would be cool if they allowed you to load two for mummy multiball but I doubt that is happening still.
Happy to hear about all the new owners. Despite many offers I still have my LE and it is up there with the best pins I've ever owned. The theme and Eddie in general lend itself so well to pinball.
Any new must have mods for premium/le owners I have missed in the last two years? My game is stock other then new balls and some major tweaking to get the game playing great.
Ok thanks, still seems “ weird” even knowing that’s what’s supposed to happen. I kept thinking ahhh shit another thing wrong with my game !
Quoted from craif:It can happen with any machine with a switch that is set to a hair trigger or poorly attached to the machine such that it shakes on it's mounting. Newtons/captives/spinners/gates and other non-standard switches are a common culprit as they tend to be highly sensitive and whatever makes them unique tends to be heavy like a weight on a lever, but even a simple rollover could do it. It could even be a stray wire strand where the wires attach to the switch that brushes the other contact.
Whatever switch it is, it's either loose, malfunctioning or adjusted wrong. It can be triggered by anything that shakes the machine just the right way, but easy to go unnoticed in the chaos of a game. It's easy to notice with the flippers on maiden because you hit them to select a song or set up a skill shot while the rest of the machine is at rest.
Seen it specifically with the newton orb on the Premium, as well as just the normal target orb on the pro. The only way we figured out what switch it was on the pro was because it would award the mystery award if one was available. If you're not getting that, it might be another switch.
If switch test isn't finding anything for you, focus your search on likely culprits. Finger test them for a hair trigger or they are loosely mounted. You can narrow it down by noting the amount of points awarded and any other indicators like lights/callouts/counters. For example, look at the power pyramid counters before an after to see if one changed. If it's really nasty, you could even dump all the audits to usb, trigger it once, dump them again and then compare each value line by line and see exactly what internal counters changed.
So the sound when you hit the flipper is the sound from the " Power ball" Clairvoyant ball? One on the bottom left. I pulled back the leaf so it's not touching anymore. Anymore than what I did it will not register a hit. Also when I hit it with my finger during the test the ball gets stuck in a forward position a lot and that SQUARE ( pictured ) during the switch test stays on. Sometimes it stays on even if the ball isn't stuck like that. Some games it happens other times it just starts happening randomly.
IMG_2831 (1) (resized).jpgQuoted from craif:Is the sound it is making the one that is normally made for the mystery orb and/or power jackpot cash in? If it is, that's a good indicator it's a problem with the clairvoyant ball mechanism or the underlying switch it actuates. Particularly if it's awarding any available mystery award or power jackpot.
I have a pro so I'm not super familiar with the the orb mechanism on the premium so I'd seek confirmation from stern, your distro or someone who has spent more time inside a premium. Having said all that, what you're describing generally sounds like what I was getting at.
It sounds like newton ball itself or the switch mechanism it is attached to is goofed up and it either fires too easily or is even resting in the wrong position in the first place. I don't know if the newton ball is a normally open or normally closed switch, but either way when something shakes it just right (the flipper shaking the table, a ball hitting it) it jiggles it. If the switch is resting in the right state, the jiggle triggers it. If it's resting in the wrong state the machine likely debounces it, ignoring the fact that it's triggered until it sees it reset. The jiggle breaks the connection momentarily and then when it falls back it's seen as a new switch hit.
Ok I got the leaf switch on the bottom left Newton ball to the point where if I open it up any further it won’t activate. And I moved around the wires around it to see if that was doing anything . The white / black wire and yellow black wire. Nothing was activating. Played a few games tonight and so far so good. But that happened last week also then it went back to doing it. So not sure what’s up. NIB also 
Quoted from craif:Glad its working for now. Good work!
If it comes up again and you haven't already I'd really suggest if you haven't bug the hell out of your distributor or stern directly. There's hundreds of stories from good and bad about after purchase support. Maybe nothing. Maybe overnighted multiple parts and and they walk you through dialing it in. The worst that can happen is losing an hour that you would have been annoyed during anyway. Good or bad you're better off putting it in front of them on day 10 of the warranty vs 100 days after it expires.
Yeah Stern has been emailing me about trying to fix it but its HARD doing anything that way. Especially when I suck at this and have a ton of questions. I wish at least a phone call or facetime so they can walk me through it like you said.
Quoted from craif:Glad its working for now. Good work!
If it comes up again and you haven't already I'd really suggest if you haven't bug the hell out of your distributor or stern directly. There's hundreds of stories from good and bad about after purchase support. Maybe nothing. Maybe overnighted multiple parts and and they walk you through dialing it in. The worst that can happen is losing an hour that you would have been annoyed during anyway. Good or bad you're better off putting it in front of them on day 10 of the warranty vs 100 days after it expires.
I'm wondering if the Power ORB ball gets hit too hard its getting stuck in the forward position. I played a bunch of games last night and " most " were ok but then towards the end I had a bunch of games where it kept happening again. I looked and even when the ball gets stuck forward if i press hard enough which isnt a lot the screw that comes out of the ball is still in the spoon of course not centered but its still in there. If that's what really is happening how do I fix that?
Quoted from craif:I can really only speculate here. Looking at the manual on page 49. The bottom newton ball assembly has 2 major components. The main assembly has 13 unique parts, one of which is the spoon switch bracket which itself has 4 parts. On the pro it's a stand up target.
You mentioned it's getting stuck forward. Are all the parts present, undamaged and oriented properly? It looks like at least half of them are involved in returning the ball to center and keeping it there. Centering cone. Centering plate. Capture plate. Several spacers. Compression spring.
You might want to start with the spoon switch itself. It's not identical but it's the same basic mechanism and theory of operation used in a pop bumper switch. Does the actuator stem rest loosely on the cup letting it actuate the switch from all directions and then return to center, or is it getting stuck when the ball moves forward? The book I've got here on pinball machine repair suggests using a qtip to apply coin lube or teflon gel inside cup and and on the stem to let them move more freely against one another as an alternative or in addition to the typical bending every leaf style switch sometimes needs.
The only thing I'm noticing is when I'm flicking the switch in the test mode it works maybe half the time and sometimes the ball gets " stuck forward" . The screw is still in the spoon, it doesnt leave it, its just at an angle when that happens. So I'm wondering if that's what's happening during gameplay sometimes. I got the leaf apart just enough so it works. anymore it doesn't touch and doesn't work.
Quoted from craif:I'm wondering if the angle and tension of the spoon is causing it to pinch and hold at the problem angle instead of floating back to center. In that case the fix would either be lube or adjusting the angle of the cup itself to reduce the tension for the problem direction rather than changing the overall size of the gap at the contacts. With how far you've got it open at this point, the contacts may be too far apart for some angles while still being too tight in one direction.
Stern is having one of the engineers look for me today said they would get back. Thanks
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:Please keep us posted on what they say. My new premium has a wonky orb. I noticed that I could get it to stick in the "back" position in switch test mode, but hadn't seen any problems during gameplay until last night. It stopped registering completely. I haven't studied the under playfield mech yet so I'm not sure exactly how it works or how it can be adjusted.
Will do, yeah mine worked the first day and then went to complete crap after that. they had me adjust the leaf switch that's connected to the " spoon " and that kinda sorta worked for a little bit but after a few games it goes right back to not working again. VERY frustrating considering this was a NIB.
Quoted from Bundy:That is a well known issue with the Premiums. Down to a strange design. Nothing really wrong with the switch. Just needs a lot of tweaking to get right and usually require adjusting every now and then as it moves out of alignment over time from vibrations.
Yeah I adjust mine and then it stops working again but when I look the leaf has the same spacing as it did before it stopped. So im not exactly sure what is going on.
Quoted from ExSquid:Yeah I adjust mine and then it stops working again but when I look the leaf has the same spacing as it did before it stopped. So im not exactly sure what is going on.
Also what are you guys using to adjust this? I'm only using a pair of needle nose pliers I have but when I have to tighten the switch it gets a little cumbersome and awkward.
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:I strongly suggest this tool:
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html?Category_Code=
Make sure the mechanism is moving smoothly before you start adjusting the switch. Mine is not - it gets stuck in the back position - which needs to be solved first before messing with the switch.
Ok thanks ill pick that up. Also when you say gets stuck in the back position , do you mean when you press the ball forward it sticks there? Because that's what happens with mine.
Quoted from JHS71:Had problem with newton ball getting stuck in back position from a good hit. The base that it sits on had a shit machining job. I placed a spring washer from a coil stop between the ball and base, a perfect fit, and tiny dab of lithium grease. Helped a bunch, well at least I think it did.
[quoted image]
Do you know exactly what size washer that is? I had to do something similar on my GOTG magnet to get it working.
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:If you hit the newton ball from the front it moves back (towards the rear of the machine) and gets stuck in that back position.
?
Ok , yes that's what happens to mine. Actually to both but the MUMMY newton ball seems to be ok now for some odd reason. Its the ORB ball that's giving me the most issues.
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:ExSquid I think I solved my issue with the orb newton ball getting stuck in the "back" position. The fix I used was documented well in this post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-maiden-issues/page/19#post-4542117
I first disassembled the entire mech and removed the "sleeve" that pokes through the playfield. I noticed that the edges of the bevel were not very smooth or symmetrical. I tried rotating it slightly in the hole and reassembled, which seemed to improve it, but it was still happening.
I disassembled again and got out my Dremel with a grinding bit and went around the edge entirely at very low speed. The goal was to round off the sharp edge where the bevel meets the top flat part. I didn't apply any grease - I don't think it should be needed if you round off that edge. Reassembled and spent a good 5 minutes trying to make the newton ball get stuck in any position and I couldn't. Adjusted the switch slightly - making sure the "cup" was centered on the actuator - and played about 10 games with no orb issues.
I thought about just asking Stern to send another piece but I'm sure it would have the same issues. Give this a try and see if it works for you.
Thanks brotha ! I’m still waiting to hear back from Stern. If I don’t I’ll email them again Monday . They are sending me a new set of switches. But still unsure if that REALLY is the issue.
Thanks brotha ! I’m still waiting to hear back from Stern. If I don’t I’ll email them again Monday . They are sending me a new set of switches. But still unsure if that REALLY is the issue.I’m not mechanically confident enough to try what you did .
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:99.9% your issue will persist.
I never got anything resolved by Stern support.
They are only good for sending replacement parts and or ‘recall’ kits, like for example: aiq subway mech, or the stranger thing ramp cover.
No follow up and no real solutions unless it is an issue with a ‘recall’ part associated to it. If it is not, then you are just wasting yo time waiting for the exact same part you already have in there.
Roll your sleeves up and enjoy fixing and dialling this in yourself.
Phew…. If I have no other choice I’ll try. I’m going to speak with my distributor about this and see where it goes. But In the end long term you’re right. This scares the shit out of me since I’ve never done stuff like this on something this expensive myself.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:A switch is triggering. Check the easy stuff first but with premiums the usual suspect would be the orb spoon switch.
This is the answer right here. The ORB ball was my culprit. Had to mess with the leaf switch by the spoon a TON before getting it " fixed ". What a pain in the ass.
Quoted from insight75:I have about 20 sheets now. Do it and don't look back. I buy the Voodoo from Cointaker. (they are fairly close by and the shipping cost is reasonable)
Ok glad you have that one , its the one I keep eyeballing. I live in NY I wonder how it will hold up in the shipping.
I scotch taped the edge of the loop protector down that keeps coming up since I don't have a replacement yet from Stern. Its on " back order" . That's not going to " ruin" anything is it?
Also Do you guys find the replacement worth it? I mean what's different about it from the initial installation at the factory?
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Agree 100% with you. It is not the greatest design from a longevity or maintenance point of view, it is a terrible weak point.
I tried to ignored it for 300 games but it was just ruining the experience so I took it off, cleaned and reinstalled with the tape I mentioned before. I have put a few hundred games since and has not budged.
In case you missed it in here, a few people tried mylar with little success and it gets really damaged quickly so you end up maintaining more.
That whole section in my opinion, should have been routed out to accept a metal insert directly attached to the PF with screws. That would have been perfection and likely 0 maintenance...
Read your replies, and looked up this whole thread about it. A lot of info thanks. Im just wondering the difference in a replacement. What's the point?
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:You are welcome. I think the metal piece Stern uses is a great alternative to Mylar. I can't speak about other replacements made by others.
I notice a HUGE improvement just by replacing the adhesive under the metal so it properly attaches to the PF. The 3M tape I used is commercial grade, bonding increases over time and it is easily removable with isopropyl alcohol.
Put a few hundred game since and it has not moved a bit.
I think the problem is not the actual metal piece but poor installation at the factory. The double sided tape the used is very cheap and adhesion is weak. During break-in it curls up and pull it off.
I am not a fan of taping it over, as you mentioned, as I do not think it will last either.
My approach has shown almost no changes in almost 250 games since the change. The metal piece does need a break in period though, it will slightly curl at the beginning.
I recommend the 3M tape I mentioned before. It is used in high end electronics and other environments. It is designed to be removed easily too. It is the right product for this application. Nikon uses it to hold the plastic grips attached to the cameras in their pro grade cameras (that is how I found it)
I recommend it
Thank you!
Quoted from pinballjah:Check out the back panel magnetic cover from Wizard Mod. I will let them know about the new plaque, as they will have to adjust the sizing accordingly. Is this really needed for game play given you have a code reader at the front of the game?
[quoted image]
Got these for my Maiden and my GOTG , they look amazing! Takes maybe a full minute to put on.
Quoted from CUJO:So are you saying that your metal is being replaced by Stern on the latest run of IM's?
None of the original IM's had this protector to my knowledge so I am assuming your IM is also from the latest run?
Yes, but its on " back order" so no idea when im getting it. The build date on my IM was this AUG.
Quoted from CUJO:What exactly went wrong with the metal protector you had? I got my IM Sept 15th and was built late August as well.
So what is Stern's answer? Is the replacement thicker or what?
Left corner keeps sticking up. Making the ball get trapped up there sometimes. Like the tape they used isn't holding it. No, its the same thing so I'm not sure if that will " fix" it or not. For now I just taped it down with scotch tape. Its in the back and under the sarcophagus so cant really see it anyway and its not an eye sore. Its holding up so far. We will see.
Ok so the scotch tape on the metal loop protector sucks , after 5 days its already coming up. But you guys including myself knew this would happen hahah, I'm wondering if I should just rip out the protector all together for now and just wait for the replacement. It seems some people here have older builds with no protector at all and having no problems. I don't know....* big shrug* Its home use only and would imagine it doesn't get played near the same amount as an on location pin. So would me not having the protector on for maybe a couple of months or as long as Sterns ( on back order ) lasts as they told me really ruin the lane in the loop that bad?
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I have already recommended the 3M adhesive that is correct for this application, lol, but I swear sometimes posting here is like screaming at the sky. lol
I've taken that into account, but was just wondering if just removing it completely until I get the new one Stern is mailing to me for now and just waiting.
Quoted from gunstarhero:We get updated Tour dates.
Believe it or not besides them being completely blown away by the new stern games friends/family of mine get a real kick out of those scrolling through on the screen. I'm glad they are adding the new dates. Pretty cool!
Quoted from wtatumjr:Here's Wizard Mods apron cover. Before and after.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Insane, I held off ordering those. I have the speakers done, I KNEW i should have gotten the apron as well!. ARGH! Looks amazing.
Quoted from wtatumjr:Thanks! The good news is they don't make you pay for shipping so all you loose by splitting orders is time.
Yeah. I remember I took my speaker panels to get to NY about 3 and a half weeks. Looking forward to getting this.
Quoted from whoknowsgoi:Just picked up a Maiden Prem and joined the club and thats rad , what isnt rad i noticed a few things A: there is not door jam that turns off the power. is that normal for this game? every other stern has one. Also the start button I cant seem to get it to work. changed bulb etc nothing. Finally the ball keeps getting lost up in the tomb lock and its driving me crazy, any fixes for that.
Congrats man! You don't know how many times I hovered over the PM user button on your ad for the trade.
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:Hard to say, honestly. As I focus more on improving my play, I am thinking of recording my games so I can go back and review good games to see what went well, and what didn't.
I did have 3x scoring going into Trooper multi-ball and did quite well; also had 3x going into Cyborg that got me quite a few points. Completed 2 or 3 of the modes (w/ soul shards collected). Failed miserably at Can I Play With Madness and 2 Minutes to Midnight. Ended up with 3 Eddie cards (missing Mummy).
I noticed that most of my multi-balls lasted longer than usual. I'm really trying to focus on controlled multi-ball play but I'm absolutely horrible at it.
I've had the game since Sept, can only collect 2 cards at most. The top flippers always screw me up during mutil-ball. I'm not anywhere skilled enough to pay attention to all the flippers and shots yet.
Quoted from wtatumjr:You can get an apron cover from Wizard mods. Premium shown, before and after.[quoted image][quoted image]
Im ordering the Stern Connect for my Maiden I wonder how this will look with that hooked up.
Quoted from Biju:Where did you order it from? (if you don't mind me asking)
I bought 2 machines from them, they contacted me they had some IC's available. So I bought one. Really friendly people there.
I had to remove the "loop protector" months ago because it was bending upwards and trapping the ball. Stern has had me on "backorder" for a long time now. Im guessing its never coming. Any of you not replace it and feel ok doing so? The game plays smooth with no problems.
Quoted from craif:Originally it was just mylar back there and playfields eventually started to accumulate enough damage that stern invented the protector. I don't have a photo immediately available but when I've seen it in the wild the damage varied from "who cares" to "gruesome."
Option 1A is wait for stern. Option 1B is flatten yours with a rubber mallet and/or vise, clean it off and reapply it with 3M adhesive. Either might curl again eventually.
Option 2 is get the Cliffy carbon fibre replacement. I'm happy with mine. My impression is everyone who has installed one has been happy with it. It doesn't cover quite as much area as the stern one but it does cover the spot where I've actually seen damage before.
It's included in the full Cliffy kit for IMDN which I think is worth it. If anyone has asked him if he'll sell it individually they haven't posted the answer it here.
Thanks , maybe ill get that fiber one you are talking about. Game is 100% including the auto shot out of the plunger around the loop. I'm lucky. This is the only "hiccup" right now that I have thank god.
Quoted from Monk:I email Cliff a month or 2 ago about purchasing only the carbon fiber protector and it was not problem at all. I don't remember the price off hand, but it was reasonable and as always, Cliff was great with his customer service.
Cool thanks for the heads up
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:At risk of stating the obvious, have you run the diverter test? Does it show the switches open/closed appropriately? You should also be able to check that specific switch in the general switch test. There might be something else stopping the diverter at the correct location and it may not be triggering the diverter up switch. Those alerts happen when a switch goes a certain amount of time without triggering. Generally it just needs an adjustment but sometimes the switch may need to be replaced.
I check switch 66 like it says and it runs Anubis up and down like its supposed to do. When I play a game it works perfectly. Not really sure what else to do.
Quoted from STVPIN:I had this problem, and it finally resolved and I only "think" I know why/how it happened. I think I turned the machine off when the (edit: anubis, not sarcophagus) was maybe in the action of raising or lowering, I'm not sure. When it came back on, the test logic got confused where it was "supposed" to be, vs where it was "reporting" it was.
Anyway, I just started monkeying about in the back there with the power on, manually clicking or holding switches, and telling it to raise or lower and then finally just got it back in the logical "groove" that it expected it to be in and the error cleared.
Hope it helps.
That seems to be what happened, kinda like it “ confused “ the game. It worked itself out after a couple of games. My daughter loves turning the games off before she’s done with them. Haha
Quoted from rai:Ok maybe it was already locked ball that makes sense. I just didn’t know the diverter was active when there was already a ball locked.
How do you mean the Newton ball is hard to adjust?
I've had to adjust both newton balls several times. Its a pain in the ass but I haven't had to do anything for a few months now so I might finally be OK. Premium is F'n awesome BTW.
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Bohemia, NY
