Wow!! Ok, my Wife, Son and I just had the chance to play the IMN premium earlier today at a new venue near our town, and holy shit...it was a Family consensus, this game is 100% badass!! Yeah, it's only a matter of time till one of these badboys makes it into our home...the internet streams are great, but there's nothing like the feeling of playing this game along with the music...awesome experience.

Right?! This game is gonna be a must have!

Nice! Hahaha...I'm gonna show her this and I think that'll seal the deal my friend! I had a blast playing it and she loved it too. My son was jamming out and my man was a better shot to that left ramp than me. Mama said.. man, I sure did like that Iron Maiden a lot more than I thought I would...oh hell yes..it's on!

I will jump on the bandwagon to say that this new code update is really great. The added light show is noticeable and well done/integrated. I especially like the extra added end of ball flasher show. For me, I really like the option to pick one song that lasts across all three balls, and I really am digging the new graphics on the Flight of Icarus mode. Definitely a very well done update!

Wanted to share my additions. Exchanged the Cyborg Eddie for The Trooper and used the same attachment bracket from the back. Also added 2 LED lit warplanes on the left with a worn flag behind them (which also helps to partially cover the spotlight behind it). I think it turned out well and looks great in the machine. This game is so good, and the new code is great!

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Enter the Powerslave...hanging in the background, guarding the bull's-eye target and showing his overall disgruntlement.

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Thanks. I found it online, eBay I think. It is the NECA version Powerslave, I believe.

Popped the legs off of the figure, partially loosened the lower screw holding the back playfield plastic to the right of the bull's eye target and did a figure-eight zip tie from behind the head of the screw to around the back of his belt. Another zip tie holding his staff (in hand) to the right ramp post and it is solid as a rock, hovering above the back orbit and plastic underneath the right ramp. Played a couple games, didn't block any shots, didn't budge at all.

Started experiencing a rather frustrating problem on my Iron Maiden premium today, wondering if anyone had any advice.

Has to do with initiating the sarcophagus lock.

Initiate a game. Hit the sarcophagus captive ball to open the tomb. Gate opens in the back, shoot up the left ramp, game registers a "sarcophagus lock" via audio as well as on the screen (as it should), the small plastic gate opens up and the ball falls into the ball lock chamber but the chamber doesn't hold the ball, instead the mech continues to fall downward to dump it all the way to exit out the center ramp scoop and the ball shoots out the center ramp scoop. However, the gate on the left is still open and all of the mummy letters are lit. I shoot it up the left ramp again and through the open gate, the switch back there triggers and the plastic door immediately opens, the ball falls into the captive ball mech and the mech dumps it again all the way into the scoop and the ball shoots out the center ramp scoop. Again and again and again and again. That back diverter gate just stays open and no ball ever gets locked and all mummy letters stay lit, so I can't initiate spelling M U M M Y to ever get to mummy mb, also, even if a mode starts, since the gate stays open, if I shoot up the left ramp the ball has to go through the whole dumping ball into scoop, shoot out scoop, again and again...what the heck! Very frustrating.

Went into test. All of the coils fire, all of the switches register (including the switch on the floor of the back plastic ramp behind the diverter), the diverter goes up and down easily and without issue or binding, the ball lock mechanism goes up and down without issue or binding, there are no problems I can see/find in test mode...ugh...went under the playfield and made sure all connections were seated well. I hope im missing something simple, but I have no idea at this point.

To make matters even more frustrating, in testing this problem multiple times with the glass off, every 5th or 6th trial, for whatever reason, the mech actually did as it should and the ball truly locked and the "M" on the captive ball was ready to be hit and functioned appropriately all the way to "Y" and I was able to go through mummy mb...test again, and the frustrating problem presents again and for all of the following trials until I had to walk away... So it kind of "wants" / has the ability to work appropriately, but it's rare and intermittent now, like something's loose, or not registering reliably, but what?

Any advice?
Thanks!!

Thank you for your reply, Tom.
I was speaking with another Pinsider who had a similar problem a years or ago, and for him, he found his issue at the spoon and captive ball post there at the sarcophagus area. I cleaned and adjusted mine but didn't find that to help me. I then fiddled again with every switch from the diverter, to the small switch in the back tunnel, to the switches in that locking mechanism.

I did think that the first switch in that locking mechanism (The first switch that a ball would hit when rolling in from the back tunnel) rode a little "low" and did go ahead make some effort to raise it up/make more proud, to ensure that it was getting triggered by the ball. Maybe it was missing it?? ... but after this fiddling I did get more reliable play for a couple games which was great to see for sure.

If anyone would be willing to take a picture of how proud the switches are in thier sarcophagus locking mechanism, that I could compare against mine, that would be very much appreciated and thank you in advance!

That's excellent, Tom! I was also just now contacted by a fellow Pinsider who recommended this fix as well. It does appear as though others have encountered this same problem as well in the past (always good to know I'm not alone in experiencing this issue).

After spending some time underneath the playfield and looking at that switch and how it sits in that mechanism, I would imagine I will have to disconnect the entire mechanism in order to adequately reach that physical switch. For those who have done this, would you agree?
Anyone who has replaced this switch with the roller switch mentioned above, did you have to disassemble the mechanism in order to reach and replace the switch?...and if so, any sage advice when disassembling this mechanism (f that's what is needed)?

Good to know I'm on the right track...don't feel like I'm losing my mind anymore

*roller switches ordered*

This is the micro switch with the roller from Marco that I ordered. I went ahead and picked up a couple.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5119-02

When they come in I will probably make the switch (pun intended). With the link that Tom provided to the "Iron Maiden issues," there is a key post of changing that switch, and by the looks of that picture, the lock mechanism does need to be disassembled and temporarily removed from the playfield for the exchange. I will take pictures at the time.

Thanks again, Tom. I did not know this thread was out there. This is a great resource and I thank you very much for posting the link!
.... I tell you, it is so nice having that switch register again, even though right now I have the temporary tape heap fix, haha. Having that switch register makes the game such a pleasure again. This game is just so absolutely awesome.

It looks as though this recent issue I encountered was marked as a "key post," so I thought I would add pictures of the problem area and fix I used. I'd like to also thank the Pinsiders that chimed in to help me not lose my mind

This was for the following Prem/LE issue: Hit Mummy captive ball, register "tomb is opening", left ramp gate opens, ball goes in and registers "Sarcophagus Lock," plastic gate opens, ball rolls into Sarcophagus lock mechanism, lock mech just falls all the way down to dump the ball into the scoop and the ball shoots out from the center ramp scoop... again and again and again. No ball gets locked. Extremely frustrating.

Problem is the FIRST switch in the lock mech is NOT being triggered.
Seems this issue has been noticed in the past by several other owners.

Problem: The switch arm in the lock mech rides rather shallow in that mech trough, so the ball rolls by and DOESN'T trigger that first switch. The second switch (by the captive ball) is triggered and thus the game thinks that there is a random ball in the mech to expel, and that's exactly what it does.
Messing with the switch arm itself doesn't seem to help much as the arm is rather short.
Folks in the past have done various things in this instance including changing this switch to a "micro roller switch" with fairly good success, but this does require dismantling the lock mech from the pf in order to get to that switch.
I opted to add some height to the switch arm to make it more proud within the mech trough and that also did the trick (less permanent than switching out to a roller switch, yes i agree). Since doing that, I have played many games without any of the prior aforementioned errors, whew..

I used double sided 3M sticky tape. I made two layers in my case (to get the height I was looking for), and left the smooth vinyl backing on top such that the ball glides over smoothly. The end of the switch arm sits under the center trough hole, so this also added an element of protection from the vinyl backing peeling as time goes on.
I added pics below to show the switch in question, the tape applied, and to show a pf pic to demonstrate that this switch is out of view (as the backing is bright ass red).

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So I noticed this starting a day or so ago...
Essentially on every single multi-ball when there is a ball locked in the sarcophagus, the flippers will die when there is still one ball left to be in play. What the heck!

I was thinking this had to be a trough issue, but in diagnostics, all the trough slots register fine. There's no magnets, so there no way two balls are "stuck" and being shot out at once..Ugh...but otherwise I'm just not sure here...
Any ideas!??
Man, this is frustrating.

Edit: So it seems as though the problem is yet again coming from my sarcophagus lock. I swear this thing....

When the ball is locked and hanging behind the captive ball, it seems at times the ball is not adequately able to roll past and activate the switch right behind that captive ball (gets hung up) and by the time it does roll over, the mechanism is already starting to go up or down or in ball search and at those times of movement the ball gets hung up in the back where it would initially enter... for the love of God this thing!!!

I'm going to have to take this lock mechanism down and insert those roller switches this weekend (which I did order and came in this week thank goodness)...what a pain. Seems as though those individuals who have done this in the past have had good success eliminating a lot if not all of these issues / problems, it just sucks I have to take this mechanism down cuz I'm really not looking forward to it. In researching issues related to this mech, it sounds like this mech was initially designed with the roller switches within the lock trough, but at some point this changed, unfortunately.

So the mechanism looks like it would come out easy if it weren't for the captive ball, which runs through the front portion of the mechanism base... I've been trying to get this damn sarcophagus/mummy captive ball off for over a half hour... Without taking this captive ball off, I can't pull the mechanism out.

Ultimately I was able to finagle the mechanism enough to get to those switches even though I was not able to release the captive ball... changed the switches in the trough of that mechanism to the roller switches and ALL IS RIGHT WITH THE WORLD. Whew!!!!!

Went through a game with the glass off, everything functioned, everything registered, no issues, no problems. Roller switches where the answer to all of the sarcophagus mystery problems/issues, 100%.
Done (and hopefully done messing with this game for a while, more playing, less fiddling!)

Yeah, it appears that for the premium / LE models that have the moving sarcophagus lock mechanism, that mechanism was originally designed with micro roller switches in the trough. At some point this was discontinued and exchanged for the typical "bent arm" micro switch that we usually see around the playfield.

Since it's release, a fair amount of folks (not everyone) have had problems with this lock mech, and when problems occur in this mech, things can get real screwy, (from miscounting balls, to balls not registering those switches and constantly dumping balls, being unable to advance mummy multi-ball... on and on, painful).

In my case, I was encountering the same problems. Folks have done a few things, but it appears as though the most durable solution has been to exchange those switches within the trough of that lock mech to micro roller switches. I picked a couple up from Marco last week as I was trying some less permanent methods (posted here last week). In my case, while it helped one issue, it unmasked another, so I went ahead and just changed out both yesterday and I would agree with those from the past, this worked well and all the issues I noticed before seemed to be resolved during gameplay.

I would still love to know any tricks on releasing that captive ball, cuz I had zero luck. Fortunately, I was able to release the nuts/bolts associated with that mech underneath the playfield enough to disconnect the plate that held those switches and make the exchange. when trying to remove that captive ball, I cussed a lot, although once I was able to get that plate off that held the switches, I only cussed a little

Damn! Killing it!!!
This game can be such a rush sometimes. Nice score!

When you shoot a ball up the left ramp, does the gate open and let a ball fall into the lock mech? If so, then your switch in the back that you are showing is working. And if you checked all the switches in test and you show they all work, then Im sure your issue is probably related to an issue that I recently had to deal with over the past couple pages. It essentially boiled down to poor registration of the switches within the lock mech itself (the two switches in the trough of the mech). There are temporary fixes, but the most durable fix is to change both of them out to the micro roller switches (which can be found at Marco). Reportedly, that mech was first designed with the roller switchea, but at some point they switched to the bent are switches in that mech and there have been similar scattered issues since. Yes, quite frustrating, but fixable.

Let me ask, when the Anubis elevates to allow a ball into that back plastic tunnel behind the playfield (in that white plastic that you are depicting in your picture), do you hear a motor running? Meaning, is the Anubis diverter triggering/activating the appropriate up and down switches (and in this case, the switch for the "up" position)? If you hear a motor running after the anubis is in the up position, that would signify the anubis still trying to "go up" to trigger that upper switch, and it would be those/that switch that will need to be addressed. If the gate doesn't know that it's open yet, it may not be allowing that next switch behind the playfield to register appropriately.

Question for the group regarding the auto launcher strength, I know I've seen some folks talk about it in the past.
Recently, within the last week or so, I have found that my auto launcher is not reliably shooting the ball cross -playfield accurately. Seems to be falling short and hitting the post just below the loop entrance where it should go about 1/3 of the time, and when it does make it into the left inner loop it seems to make it only partly around that left inner loop and then fall back down. Almost as if it's not being given enough power/velocity.

This seems to be a rather consistent problem now (every game, and 90%of the time now), and that's a bummer.

The playfield is perfectly level and is cleaned and waxed and there are no obstructions. I'm thinking that the coil power needs to be more? I checked the settings and it's on the highest setting (which is the factory default setting). Do I remember hearing that some folks have changed to a stronger coil at the auto launcher? If so, what coil was used? Any other suggestions are warmly welcomed.
Thank you!

Yes, actually I do feel a burr at the end edge of the ball guide. It is small but definitely present. I will file that off. Thank you!

I will also see if I can make some small adjustments as appropriate to fix this issue if filing this small burr does not alleviate the problem. Thank you!

Yes, I remember reading somewhere that when the game was originally designed, Keith had not really planned on the ball launch going cross-playfield, although the end design ended up showing that it went around that left loop rather consistently. It was upon this discovery that they started developing some code that encompassed that, i.e. loading balls for trooper multi-ball. He (Keith Elwin) says on later interviews, I think at the time when he finished making Jurassic Park, that one thing he learned from his first game (Iron Maiden), was that he was going to no longer have any games that encompassed cross-play field launches, (my guess is because it tended to be unreliable at times, as several have seen).
But yes, upon full launch, it should go directly into that inner loop, all the way around and then back down to your right upper flipper. Auto launch should ideally go in that same pathway. During The initiation of trooper multi-ball, the ball should go in that pathway and get stopped by the post and load up just behind the upper spinner, normally two balls from auto launch are kicked out so that three balls (third ball being the ball that was just locked) are released upon the beginning of that multi-ball. The balls then all come down to the left upper flipper at the start of trooper multiball. You'll notice that if any of those two auto launch balls don't make it into that loop, the game recognizes it and immediately initiates the trooper multi-ball (recognizing that auto launch failed to make the loop). So, it was obvious at the time of code development that this auto launch to loop shot was likely, but not a guarantee. Personally, I love it when the balls make it up the loop in prep for trooper multi-ball because there's a pause and then a call-out ("The charge begins!") that starts the multi-ball and is rather exciting
It appears as though the one of the main culprits for not making the auto launch is small burrs on the very edge of the metal on the ball guide. At the end of the launch ball guide, right there at the gate, if you look at that edge of the ball guide that faces you, it can get hit by balls during play and small burrs are created. These small burrs can/will deflect the ball ever so slightly lower on its trajectory, thus increasing the likelihood that the ball would hit that post in between the loop and the skill shot target as opposed to going into the loop itself. Filing off those burrs would be an option in this scenario.

Awesome! Glad to hear it!!

Agree with @tranqilize that sounds like a problem with the switches inside of the sarcophagus mech.

I had that problem with my premium early on last year. Had made some posts about it, and others had made several posts about it as well. There are a few temporary maneuvers that can be made, but ultimately the answer is to partially disassemble that mech, remove the current micro switches with the metal angled arm, and exchange them for micro roller switches.

Per report, when the game was originally designed, it was designed with roller switches within that mechanism, although in production, they opted to use the angled switches, which have been known to cause the kind of troubles you're talking about.

It probably is that very first switch, however once I had my mech partially disassembled, I went ahead and changed all three of them within the sarcophagus mech and I had no problems afterwards...and all the funny behavior at/between the sarcophagus mech and mummy, etc, all went away and didn't return...it was a good day.

There are a few outfits to pick these switches up. Here's a link at Marco:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5119-02

Just to the left of the revive spinner is a piece of plastic on small hex posts, which acts as a area to keep from a ball trap. That forward hex post is a great spot to put a spotlight on (I use the Comet matrix system). There is a cutout on the plastic just behind that hex post designed to make room for the switch for the revive spinner. There is ample room to run the wires to the left of that switch and follow the other wires to get to the under-playfield area and then use a matrix bulb to connect. Point the spotlight at Peace of Mind Eddie. Gives a nice glow
This is a pic from my Premium when I had it.

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Quick question for the group, and really I'm fine either way...just want to see if anyone has done anything to address this particular circumstance:

I had owned premium in the past and recently picked up a pro because I just absolutely love the layout and the flow of this game...pro, premium or whatever. Very glad to have it back in the house and stoked to be back in the club.

Question is, unlike the scoop on the premium, the pro modes are started by hitting the center ramp to the bullseye target. After which time, ideally, the ball will roll off to the left and be stopped by a stand-up post while it introduces that mode. Sometimes, however, the ball falls over to the right, in which case, the introduction to the mode begins, but since the ball rolls out of that right orbit freely, the ball remains free to move/actively in play.

Is there any adjustments that I could/should need to make to ensure the ball more routinely rolls off to the left (to be stopped by the stand up post during mode introduction), or is this random left/right nature of the ball after hitting the bullseye target just par for the course (which my guess is that the answer is yes)?
Thanks!!

Yeah, inevitable movement of the ball I figured was par for the course. And certainly it's not every time, I would say maybe 30% of the time it rolls off to the right. I will double check on the level nature of the machine, I believe it is, but always good to double check. This is a new run game, so nothing curling, yet.

I appreciate your response.
Yeah, I think/suppose it's inevitable to be a random flow of the ball after hitting that bullseye target. Sure, it would be ideal to consistently and reliably go to the left and get stopped by that uppost, give you a second to get ready for the mode, but I suppose it wouldn't be the first time in any random game that a mode is initiated but the ball remains active in play. I figured that was probably the deal, I just wanted to pan the audience and make sure I wasn't missing anything. Guess when a mode is ready and I hit that bullseye target I just need to be ready!

Yeah, just checked mine. Mine has a thin piece of stainless steel, I assume it's stuck down with adhesive? The game is pretty new and I don't have that many games on it yet. Fortunately I don't see any curling. I will definitely keep an eye on it though.

Just my opinion, but I think the stairway decals from Tilt are awesome. No experience with the larger plane from Lermods, but the smaller planes from Modfather are not visually obstructive. The right ramp arch from Mezels is sweet looking and no, there is no visual obstruction with that mod.

Given that I just picked up this new pro, and noticed this thin stainless steel protector as well, I have not had to deal with it yet. However, I would assume that it is just attached to the underlying playfield with some type of adhesive. If I were to notice that mine was curling, I would probably take mine completely off, clean that area up as well as I could, and if felt compelled to put another protector on, I would probably switch to Cliffy's carbon fiber protector (I would think that as soon as you started bending that stainless protector to try and undo the curling, it would just create warps and dents, and you would probably be ultimately displeased).

I've used Cliffy's carbon fiber playfield post protectors on some of my games, and I would imagine it is just a larger piece of that same material... pretty strong stuff and might even be a little bit thinner than the stainless protector that's on there now.

Did you check to make sure that the mech is triggering the appropriate switches back there to signify when it is fully up and/or fully down?
I know when I had my premium, I had to adjust the upper switch, but fortunately only once. At that time, it made a similar sound, basically was running its motor and was at its final position, but because the switch was not activated, the motor kept running.
Might just be that simple as adjusting a microswitch back there.

Is the ceiling low across the entire basement?
If there is any particular area of the basement that allows you to raise the backbox, that would obviously be the most ideal scenario, and if so, it will dictate your pinball arrangement down there.
I think letting the game live on a hydraulic lift is probably not the way to go.
And if there's literally no other place to have a game in the house, I mean literally nowhere else, just as a brainstorm idea, potentially you could find some sort of appropriate size to heavy duty crate, box, etc (channeling the concept of Sterns Big Juicy Melons). Suppose then it would be your Big Juicy Maiden.
The height would then be dictated by the height of that box/crate. Only problem with this core idea is that you would lose the ability to raise the back of the playfield to an appropriate slope... Maybe converting part of your garage into a pinball area might be a better idea, might give you the excuse to temperature control it...which would also give you another place to go in the winter to hang out (and keep it from getting to muggy in the summertime).

Let me ask you, are you experiencing the gate not opening and releasing the ball into the sarcophagus mech? If that's the case, are you noticing this after a ball is already locked in the sarcophagus? If the above is the case, the problem is likely within the sarcophagus trough switches as opposed tovthe switch in the part of the left ramp that is behind the backboard. The switch back there is just a light angled micro switch, it would be highly unlikely to stop any ball passing by. That said, do make sure that only the knuckle of that switch is presenting, such that the end of the switch isn't catching on the end of the switch hole in the ramp.

Just as a point of interest, as it relates to that silicon grease you noticed...
I recently replaced my drop targets on my Stern Star Wars (exchanging for those transparent drops). This was an NIB from a few months ago. When I was exchanging the drops, I also noticed this very same grease on the back of the drops. I'm not sure what their routine was in the past, but this seems to be a routine maneuver nowadays for the back of the drops at Stern.

Adjusting the shooter rod is a very easy and doable thing.
Lift up your playfield to the maintenance position and take a look at the housing there at the shooter rod.
On the inside of the cabinet, there at the shooter housing, you will notice a series of screws. I'm not in my game, but usually it is three larger Phillips head screws and two hex screws.

Loosen, and or remove the 2 small hex screws, then loosen but do not take out the 3 Phillips head screws.
At this point you'll notice that the shooter housing is loose and you can shift it up, down, left, and right a little bit.
Make the adjustment that you think you need to make to center the shooter rod, hold that position with one hand while replacing the hex screws and then tightening the Phillips head screws.

As you bring your playfield down back into position you'll notice that your shooter rod alignment has changed.
This sometimes takes a little trial and error, but eventually you should be able to maneuver the shooter rod such that it is nicely centered.
Hope this helps!

Agreed. I did not place any grease on those clear drops when I exchanged them on my other Stern game, and they are very quick and responsive and haven't noticed that they needed anything applied to the backs of them to keep them responsive and snappy since the exchange.

Sure, sometimes (and really not all that frequently) lane guides need to be adjusted, plungers centered a bit, etc etc, but one thing is for sure...Stern definitely knows how to build a pinball machine! No question about it.

Yes, just follow those instructions I commented on, and you will find some wiggle room with your shooter rod at the level of the housing. For sure you want to try and get the tip of your shooter rod to line up as much as you can to the center of the ball.

This is a pretty fast game and that ball goes around pretty quick, I think plastic protectors are a good idea. You can find them at pinball life or ULEK sells some. I've not used any Cliffy's on this game.

Shaker motor is a good idea. I recommend pinball life shaker.

I personally like the Pharaoh blinder kit, it focuses the light at his eyes nicely, and it's a pretty quick install. I think getting the orb mod is also a very good mod and really adds a lot to that area. Mezel mods actually has a lot of great stuff.

There are some people that have pro models and quite enjoy the stand-up plastics, but I always prefer 3D figures for my own games. You can exchange those stand up plastics at the pops and right ramp with figures, some of which can be found at some of the pinball sites like pinball life, and you can also find a pretty decent amount on eBay as well. Of note, Pinball life sells both the peace of mind Eddie figure, the plastic he stands on, both of which can be used on a pro model, as well as the same Eddie figure that's on the premium along with the bracket that can be used on the Pro ramp. So technically you can make both of those figures just like the premium / LE if that was your desire. For me, I used the bracket on the right, but I put in a trooper Eddie.

There are some folks that do not like to cover the metal ramps, but I really enjoy the ramp decals that Tilt graphics offers, I think they go really well.

I've owned the game twice, and I've not found the need for corner leg protectors. Similarly, I'm not bothered at all by the fan, when you first turn the game on you can hear the fan, but otherwise the games sounds music are loud enough that you literally would never hear the fan, at least not from my perspective and experience. Speaking of sound, external sub I think is a great idea for this game (and others). I used the Pinnovators external sub board that they offer from their site with the recommended sub, which is 10" Polk sub, and it rocks. For my game, I also upgraded the back box and cabinet sub to Flipper Fidelity speakers, and it really took everything up a notch, I liked it before but I love how everything sounds now.

I do think that the insert gels that PinMonk is offering are really nice. Especially the larger fireball loop and center inserts. There's so many colors, I actually kept the mode inserts white, because it stands out a bit more, actually. He is also making that Tibetan fan, which I installed, and been quite pleased. He's really doing some nice stuff, really good quality and easy install.

Congrats on the new game. It's awesome. It's a fun game to mod, if that's your thing. As far as just gameplay itself, the shots and the code and the speed are hands down just one of the best.

Just wanted to share my current mods/additions to my Pro.

-Spotlights in the back left (with Comet Fire bulb facing back left characters) and additional 2nd spot on right (similar to Prem version), as well as spots at the slings and on lower left illuminate Piece of Mind Eddie.
-Distressed British Flag in front of (disguising) the back left spotlight.
-LED lit warplanes on the left (From ModFather) as well as pyramids and Egyptian characters on back left ramp (found on Etsy) and torch covers.
-Trooper Eddie at right ramp, Power Slave Eddie back right (with his right arm blocking ball from rolling off right of center ramp), and Piece of Mind Eddie (with some custom chains I put around his neck) on left standing on separate plastic (from pinball Life).
-Anubis dog at captive ball.
-Clairvoyant Character (lucky Ebay mystery box) at Orb plastic behind Mezel Mods lit Orb.
-Obelisk flasher dome cover in back right, Pharaoh eye blinders and LED lit Egyptian arch at right ramp from Mezel Mods.
-Pingraffix side blades.
-Tilt Graffics ramp decals.
-Distressed flag flipper toppers.
-IMDN guitar pic covering raw/exposed backside of switch at right ramp.
-Custom apron cards.
-Where appropriate, colored (or swapped out for) metallic gold or black hardware.
-Opted on clear plastic protectors at slings and outlanes, and yellow and orange plastic protectors at pops and skill shot plastic, along with custom purple plastic protector on left to side of left spinner.
-Titan comp flipper rubbers.
-Comet warm white LEDs across the GI and warm white trough light.
-PinMonk fireball gell inserts at left loop, and center characters. As well as the white to yellow fade at the Mummy inserts.
-Not shown is custom blue/silver/red colored shooter rod from ModFather and British Flag shooter plate from Cointaker.
-Game also with shaker, Flipper Fidelity backbox and sub speakers along with Pinnovators external sub hookup to 10" Polk sub.
...and atop it all is a nice piece of VooDoo Glass.

-I've never done it before, but I am toying with the idea of powder coating the side rails, lockdown bar and legs...suppose it's TBD, but I do think it could set it off even more...

Yup, I absolutely love this game and what's been even more fun than doing all of the above, is playing the living sh*t out of it
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Thanks, I'm glad you dig those characters up there!!

There's a few folks who sell this kind of stuff, this one group sells a lot of different type characters, most of which will fit in that area. Here's a link to their shop on Etsy. This will definitely get you in the right direction.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/SonOfThePharaohCA?ref=yr_purchases

...and here's another group that sells similar type mini statues.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/VintageVeronese?ref=yr_purchases

As far as the pyramids go, there's a lot of different vendors with a lot of different styles that are available. A lot of really cool stuff. Etsy is a pretty dangerous site with a pretty deep rabbit hole, so watch out, but here's a link just looking for miniature Egyptian pyramids, haha

https://www.etsy.com/search?q=miniature%20egyptian%20pyramid%20set

This isn't the exact pyramid set, but this is of the same type, size, construct.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1104725515/high-quality-metal-giza-pyramids-sacred?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=miniature+metal+giza+pyramid+set&ref=sr_gallery-1-2&tr_rank=5&organic_search_click=1&frs=1

Thanks man, I'm glad you dig the clairvoyant character add-on!
About the mystery box, yeah, that's correct. The character(s) comes with a lower half of her body, but to put it where I wanted it, I cut her in half and designed a small tab to hook to the screw behind her. They come from Iron Maiden Legacy of the Beast Series/Wave 1 mystery boxes. There's 10 or so characters, and It's just a matter of luck who / what you get.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Iron+Maiden+legacy+of+the+beast+mystery+box&source=hp&ei=fpSiYbvLHsW8tAa_446wCA

Awesome. Yeah there's a few pretty cool characters in that set. Getting the complete set, you know you'll get the character you're looking for, and maybe some ideas for the others.

I have his thread marked as a favorite. Yeah, this guy does some of the most amazing airbrush/powder coat work I've seen for pinball. I have shared his thread with others as well. Have you had the opportunity to work with him!!?? If so, that's so awesome I'd love to see pics!!... Unless that pick above is yours?! I definitely saw that work posted when he did it, and that is freaking amazing.
I wonder what is cost of work is... I can't imagine, especially these days with covid, what shipping is to get it back. I'm sure it would be one heck of a price, but man oh man, agreed, some of the most amazing work.

Those are the standard ones on the IMDN above.
I have used the light up version in the past on my Black Knight that I sold earlier this year. They were really cool, no doubt.

Mudflaps shared the Mezel Mods purchase link above for this. Because I went around this game and either exchanged or painted most hardware black and or metallic gold (depending on location), I did also paint the metal base flaps of that archway (that extends forward a bit to fasten to the ramp screws) gold as well, as you can see in the picture.

I have been giving some serious thought to powder coating, as mentioned above. That distressed British flag designed that he did on that, has been one of the most standout pieces that he's done for Iron Maiden, at least for me. Maybe it might be worthwhile to visit that thread and reach out to him. I can certainly ask, and I'm more than happy to report back his pricing for others to know that information as well, whether I decide to do it or not... But man, that would be so cool...

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-bulbs

Link above^^
These are nice bulbs that are great in spotlights. They're not as "insane" as you might think, haha, but they do offer just a bit more light across the playfield, more so than some of their other 1-2SMD bulbs.
The 4-SMDs are also nice (link below).
I'd recommend getting a couple-few of each, and see which one you prefer. You can get them in the style white that you are using on your GI.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/4smd-bulbs

You can also consider doubling up your spotlights at one particular attachment (similar to picture shown in the link below), or having them spaced out with additional post in between (which allows a little further ambient light travel from the above spot). Can still utilize the bulbs linked above.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/spotlight-kit

Sure, the link to his thread is below. Yeah, his work is amazing for sure.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/airbrush-body-kits-for-pinballs-star-warsghostbusters-and-more

Just an update to my last post.
Added an ancient Egyptian book to cover the raw backside of the exposed opto board at the right ramp (behind the spotlight post), added a tomb treasure chest aside the figures in the back left (has gold and colored jewels inside that sparkle with the backboard and spotlights), added a small, appropriately-fitted Egyptian tablet in-between the left and center loops (to cover the wires from the planes and switch wires) and added a partial wall backing to the right ramp arch with hieroglyphics (to add a little mystery to the right ramp entrance).
I'm really happy with how it all turned out.
I included a full pf view to show the full setup and despite these add-ons, there's no visually obscured areas...everything seems to fit nicely and on theme (at least to me, haha).

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Thanks!! Everything is either out of the ballpath (hovering above) and/or protected by either ramps, wireforms, posts or plastics, so everything is safe!!
Many games played since adding the features that I posted with no issues, busted bits or moving parts or pieces.

Normal. Secure the center post in the most natural position coming from the ramp, and then once secured, push the last part of the ramp down to the sling post, center it to the inlane, secure the 8-32 hex nut and you're good to go! Don't forget to replace the washers (that you would have removed at the time of removing your wireform, to protect your plastic and such).

I was thinking about that this morning when I read your post. You've shared a couple pictures and videos, but the area where the wire form meets the ramp has not been shown clearly. Would you be willing to share an up close picture of where your wireform meets the ramp. I do wonder if it is seated there appropriately.

For those keeping track or making note, I just wanted to comment that my metal loop protector also seems to be demonstrating curling at about 100 games.
As I've been reading about this happening to others, I wasn't exactly sure what kind of curling folks were experiencing. I now see that it is the back edge that curls up, lengthwise...and sure enough, when balls go back there, especially with lighter passes/plunges (or in preparation for trooper multiball), a ball will get hung up back there. That is annoying.
I jumped on Cliffs website and went ahead and purchased his IMDN protector package, which will also include that carbon fiber loop protector. I will look forward to receiving it.

Those look amazing!
I don't think those are the ones that plug in and light up, so I would imagine that you would install them much like any other side blade. I usually prefer the wet method.

You may know this, and if so please disregard,
But what he's trying to say is, is that you don't need to have your coin door open the whole time to run the testing/diagnostics.

Once you open the coin door and enter into diagnostics, you can actually close the coin door (while still in diagnostics). Then, your start button and flippers reproduce the same functions as the coin door buttons to scroll through the diagnostic menus and activate /enter on whatever test you are trying to look at.

Because this menu use is utilizing coin door buttons -versus- flipper buttons, they are slightly different pathways that ultimately lead to the games computer, is what he's getting at.

Personally, I am not entirely sure how the above information will narrow things down for you, probably a bit above my pay grade, and I am not exactly sure what's going on with your intermittent problem, but I am sorry to hear about it and I hope it gets resolved soon.

Whenever I have intermittent issues on newer Sterns, I always start with raising the playfield and re-seating all connectors on the boards that sit underneath the pf, including/especially those bigger cable-looking connectors, not just the molexes. I have definitely experienced on several occasions loose connections of those larger black/grey cables that connect into the boards underneath the playfield. They look like they're seated in, but when you push them in they go in/seat in by a couple more millimeters, so actually they were not seated in well at all.

And just to be clear, when you randomly experience this on your game, and you are spelling Eddie letters, and you get the last Eddie letter and then... nothing? Or do you get the last Eddie letter and it says "shoot the underworld" but the ramp doesn't come up?
Do you hear the words "shoot the scoop/underworld"? Because if the latter is the case, it certainly sounds like a loose/wobbly connection somewhere that is being shaken somehow by gameplay. Gameplay. I would not think the problem would be in the back box, I would think that the problem is somewhere underneath the playfield.

Right on

I had had them for a while, but never really installed them until the other day, but I would like to report that those loop opto covers that are sold by Pinball Life really do help. They are from PU-Parts (where there is some brief but concise installation instructions on their website). Ripping that outer loop fast as hell and is nice to see the ball registering 100% of the time now.

Haha...yeah, I love it when she says that!!

Haha... Always thought it was the other, but ya know, you're probably right, haha.
I agree with you, the call-outs on this game are amazing

While I will admit that it looks cool, in games that I've seen that just have the wire forms powder coated and not the base ramps, something about it, at least to me personally, looks a bit off.
If you were going to go through the effort of powder coating the wireforms, my vote would be to disassemble the metal base ramps and powder coat them as well. Just my opinion, may not be everyone's taste though.
A deep lustrous/metallic cherry red would be my vote

For those Iron Maiden modders out there...

I added a few items onto the marketplace yesterday. Basically some extras that I had collected while modding out my own IMDN.

I have a new Spawn style Eddie (still in its box), some hieroglyphic side blades (from Tilt Graphics, still in its bag), and some cool hand painted Egyptian/Pharaoh/Anubus figures (from some artists on Etsy).

If there's any interest in any of these items, please feel free to shoot me a PM.
You can see each of these ads on the Iron Maiden marketplace here on Pinside for pics.
Thanks

I remember when I had my premium, and noticed issues with the sarcophagus lock mech registering balls... Very frustrating.
But there is a fix.
I recommend doing a forum search on this issue, which will bring about several posts, and also a separate maiden issues thread, on the matter and you will be able to read through those issues and I'm sure they will sound familiar to the experience you're having.

In brief, while there's little things you can do, the ultimate durable fix is going to be loosening the sarcophagus lock mechanism (such that you can access the switches underneath the playfield at the mech) and changing out the two stock micro switches in there to micro roller ball switches (easily obtainable at Marco).
Out of interest, utilizing micro roller ball switches at the sarcophagus mech was how the game was originally designed, but at production they opted on standard stock micro switches at that mech, most likely because it saved them a couple hundred bucks at the end of the production line.

While not occurring on everyone's game, the gist is that those standard micro switches get bent after a period of time in that mech and ultimately don't reliably register. I think it must have to do with something in the dynamics of the moving mechanism, it's resting angle and the weight and motion of the steel balls constantly rolling over them.
Once you change out to the roller ball micro switches, my guess is that the sarcophagus mech problems you have been experiencing will cease to exist.

Btw, I also don't have the power switch you speak of inside my current IMDN Pro.

As far as the start button, are you saying that it doesn't light up, but starts a game once you press it? If it is the ladder, take a look on the inside and make sure that the previous owner didn't splice into power from the wires at the start button. I know there are a few mods out there that have been utilizing that source (for example, that very cool mod from Yoyokopter, the T-Rex alive mod, utilizes power from that area).

Hope the above helps.

No problem, and while it's a minor PIA, that should fix you up...and yep, that's the switch you're looking for.

https://mezelmods.com/collections/iron-maiden-legacy/products/iron-maiden-pinball-pharaoh-plastic-protector?variant=12353715241057

I see you have a premium. This of course is a link to the Pharaoh protector, but it appears as though they have Pro only (no premium/ LE) at the current time. Reason I added this link was that you can probably get on their contact page and ask them if they would be willing to do another run. They're good folks at Mezel Mods and it wouldn't hurt to ask 'em...no matter what, they'll definitely respond to your querry.

A while back I purchased some extra main ramps and wireforms and had them powder coated in a deep metallic red for my IMDN Pro.
They turned out beautiful, but I don't think I'm going to get around to installing them.
After a tracing of the Iron Maiden ramp flaps on my own machine, I had a friend of mine who works with metal at his job make/cut the ramp flaps for me (because these ramp flaps cannot be obtained from any pinball site) from a sheet stainless ramp flap steel that I got from Marco (and then I riveted them on securely to the main ramps).

So, if anyone were interested in these IMDN Pro powder coated ramps, feel free to give me a PM. Thanks!

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UPDATE: Ramps-Sold

How about this....

https://mezelmods.com/collections/iron-maiden-legacy/products/iron-maiden-prem-le-mummy-ball-deflector

Love that NECA Powerslave figure.

Initially took a bit to figure how to attach him so that it had 0% interference with ball travel, but ultimately was successful in installed him (the torso/upper half of him) to the right of the bullseye target (series of zip ties to one of the backboard screws, so he hovers above the orbit and plastic that sits to the right of the center ramp).

I had done this on my previous IMDN as well and love it there, so I did it again my current Pro. Good to go without issues for hundreds of games.

Love the Egyptian/Powerslave theme...was also inspired to eventually upgrade that center ramp to the premium version (with the cut out Pharaoh head) as well as go with the Prem translite as well

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No, this (link attached below) is the micro roller ball switch you need that is exchanged for the current standard micro switches in the trough of the sarcophagus mech.

I used to have the Premium, but now have the Pro. When I did have the Premium, I also exchanged for these micro roller ball switches and all the issues I was experiencing went away after making this change out. I believe there are 2 switches in the sarcophagus mech trough, so you'll need two of these. It's a mini PIA to loosen the mech under the pf and make this change out, but very much doable.

The game was originally designed to have these roller ball switches in the sarcophagus mech, but at the time of production, Stern changed to standard micro switches for some reason.

When these switches are not registering well in the sarcophagus mech, all kinds of funky things can happen during gameplay that are very annoying. This has been reported over the years both in this thread as well as in the "Iron Maiden Issues" thread, which can also be referenced.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5119-02

Hope this helps.

You will need no extra wires.

When you look underneath the playfield at the sarcophagus mech, and once the sarcophagus mech is loosened from the underside of the playfield such that you can see and access the current switches in there (mech is held onto the playfield with some screws, and once the screws are removed, the sarcophagus mech will fall away from the playfield a bit such that you can work on the mech/switches), you will then be able to adequately see the two micro switches that are currently in place there at the sarcophagus mech trough.

My recommendation is to grab your camera and take a couple of nice pictures of these switches in place and their associated wires (for reference when reassembling).

A basic inexpensive soldering iron It's all you need for most applications in pinball repair, and can be picked up at your local hardware store.
If you've never soldered before, there are some nice YouTube tutorials out there, and you can practice a time or two on some inconsequential metal/wires that may be laying around in your garage or workshop first to get the hang of it.

With the soldering iron hot, you touch the soldered ends of the wires as they meet the prongs of the current switches, which loosens the solder and lets the wire release.

Once you've released the wires to the two current switches, you remove the current switches and replace them with the new micro rollerball switches, oriented in the same position as the ones you removed.

It is usually my preference to lightly "tin" the metal prongs of the new switch before installing them, which is a way of saying to lightly put some solder on those prongs first before reinstalling (which will aid a bit in reattaching the wire...basically giving a little bit more solder to work with. This will also be discussed in the tutorial videos that you will find).

The number of prongs is the same for both switches. So, once the new switches are in place, you just reattach the wires (which will likely already have a small glob of solder from its previous attachment at their ends) to the prongs of the new switch. You do this by holding the wire directly on the appropriate switch prong and then briefly touching the solder iron to the complex of wire/prong/solder to make the connection (you will see the solder liquefy with the heat of the soldering gun, and then once you see that, while holding your wire in place, remove the soldering gun and within a second or two the solder then hardens and you will find the wire nicely attached to the prong). Your wiring is now done.

Resecure the sarcophagus mech to the underside of the playfield and voila, your done and ready to play.

Yes. I did it on mine.
The three holes are identical and there's no difference between the pro and premium center ramp with the exception of the cutout (arrows vs. Pharaoh cutout).

No, no magnets on the Pro.
I've owned both premium and Pro in the past and now that I'm thinking about it, I don't think there's any magnets on the premium either.

Made an ad on the marketplace, but also wanted to let the group know that I finally received my custom painted armor from Marco from over in Germany. That said, I will be selling it. So, I wanted to make the group aware in the event anyone was interested.
Here are some pictures that he sent me of the items from his shop before he packaged them up and mailed them to me. The items are still in the overseas shipping package, which arrived to me in perfect condition without damage.
Feel free to send a PM if interested.
Thanks.

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