Quoted from RGAires:

I would like to know if someone else feels the bottom right flipper lack a bit of strenght, already order a new coils and the coil sleeve, changed the strenght to hard, any other thing to look? im missing something? What is your degree pitch?

Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

I keep mine around 6.5-6.6 and I'm hitting loops no problem.

Quoted from RGAires:

Upper right flipper is very nice, the lower one is the problem...

Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

I am going to be joining the club! Should get it next week sometime. I’ve read through a lot of the posts in this thread plus the Iron Maiden issues thread and wondering if I should plan on changing the coil for the auto plunge. Has that been the universal fix for auto plunge issues? Also, would it be a good idea to get the corner braces for this game or do the newer production runs have them? I’m not worried too much about aesthetic mods at this point, I just want to get my game dialed in ASAP after receiving it. What’s the best pitch this game should be at? Also, is the loop adjuster kit really necessary? It’s suppose to correct for really fast balls through the loop...Thanks, looking forward to exploring this game in much more depth.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Auto launch coil change will become necessary, but maybe not at the beginning
Corner braces are a good idea. Not that hard, and I put up a step-by-step how-to here
Loop adjuster, wait and see. Some machines don't have this problem.
Definitely get a shaker motor ASAP. The game makes very good use of them, and it's only about $100.

Quoted from estrader:

What is the auto launch coil change? Is there a link?

Quoted from PinMonk:

Auto launch coil change will become necessary, but maybe not at the beginning
Corner braces are a good idea. Not that hard, and I put up a step-by-step how-to here
Loop adjuster, wait and see. Some machines don't have this problem.
Definitely get a shaker motor ASAP. The game makes very good use of them, and it's only about $100.

Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

I can’t believe Stern has not installed better corner braces on these games. I thought they changed that shit.

Quoted from PinMonk:

It's weird, they make a step back in the right direction, then it's back to cost reduction land and it goes away.

Quoted from delt31:

anyone else really like the premium translite more than the pro? I might buy it from stern sep as I'm going for a HUO pro right now....

Quoted from newtoit:

Has anyone installed the custkm egypt side armor on the premium? Please share photos id like to see how it looks.

Quoted from charles4400:

Do you mean this one, the stern one? If so here you go, I like it!:
(Place is a mess right now so ignore all the stuff around and under the pin! Just took some quick pics)[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from newtoit:

How do you measure the pitch.. is there an app for this?

Quoted from flynnibus:

Up next.. some more color...
The pinball life LED flipper kits. I've always liked their kits, and they've changed a bit over time... but still a great kit for the $. Has the built in controller and everything you need for an easy install.
From inside...
[quoted image]
From outside...
[quoted image]
Color picked for my premium scheme..
Now here's a tip.. because of the brightness of the LEDs and room around the apron... there usually is a lot of light leakage that is really distracting around the apron. Simply take some electrical tape and hood over the top half of the button to block the light. Make sure you don't obstruct the flipper plunger itself.. but beyond that, just place a piece or two to block the light.
[quoted image]
And now no light leakage!
[quoted image]
Up next.. on many games I like the trough illuminated.. but I wasn't sure on Maiden.. but I tried a yellow (because it's mostly orange) and a red. I like the cointaker strips because
1) They are cheap $5
2) They give you all the various adaptors you might need to steal a light socket or clip on.
Because all the lower GI bulbs are relatively hard to get to on the premium as they are under the flipper plates, etc.. I decided to jump off the GI that is under the apron itself. Because it's the LED boards.. most of the adaptors don't work, and aligator clips had high risk of shorting or slipping off. So instead, I snipped the socket off one of the adaptors.. and just easily tacked the wires to the solder pads on the LED board.
[quoted image]
This made it easy to plug in or change the strip if I wanted. On older games I would attach the LED strip to the vertical back of the outhole.. but I tried sticking it directly to the underside of the apron this time. It's decent.. but sometimes you can see the LED reflection if you stand over the PF. I'm 50/50 on the red on the premium here.. but have left it so far.
Up next was the LERMods Spitfire. The model looks good. Mounting it can be a bit fiddly though.
First, the two light sockets attached to the post stock, don't give a lot of room for play. Second, the stock screw didn't want to screw in fully and tight into the post. This meant when layering the plane in the stack under the screw.. It would not hold the plane in position.. and the wires of the light sockets constantly wanted to push the plane where I didn't want it. The solution was to add a washer to the stack, which tightened up the screw's hold on the layers.. and clipping the factory zip tie on the light sockets to bend the wires a good bit so they stopped bullying the plane around. Once tightened up and in position.. new zip ties held the wires in place. The harness feeds under the plastic and ramp... which was harder than it felt it should be.. but isn't bad, just annoying as my fat hands couldn't really reach the hole. The included cabling and connectors are easy and well done. Once installed, I checked it out...
[quoted image]
For the premium.. the red was a bit too much IMO.. I really wish I had some brightness control wired in (which in theory can be done downstream of the mod). Here it was on the PF.. and with the red in the plane off.
On
[quoted image]
Off
[quoted image]
I opt'd to leave it off. Maybe in the future I'll experiment with a in-line controller to dim the red underwing lights.
Next?? How about some art..
[quoted image]
Now here is where Spike is so much nicer. To install the art blades.. it's easiest on Spike just to remove the PF all together. All I had to do was free up the Cat5 cable in the cable loom (so cut three zip ties), and unplug 3 connectors. Then with the handle at the back and the apron... even an old dude with a broken back like me was able to lift the PF out and sit on the floor easily all by myself.
These are the album art blades by Tilt Graphics. Normally I'm a pingraphix guy.. but the art on these is fantastic and work so well with the game. Installing was easy. Just make sure to undo the two PF guides on the inside of the cabinet (as they will be in your way by about 1/2"). Just undo one side and rotate them down. With the PF out.. its easy to install the art blades without any fancy staging or prep.
Just peel from backing... With one hand, start the rear piece about 1/2" from the cabinet bolt and align the top of graphic right near, but not over the top edge of the wood. Tack up just the top edge, and with your other hand, try to align the top edge of the decal about 1/3 of the way down the cabinet with the top edge of the cabinet again.. Readjust as needed to get the blade tacked up and straight without any bows or folds. Don't push it all down yet! The blade will easily come right off if you only stick a small portion to start. Get the top 1/3 or so aligned, and just tacked up about the top 1" of the blade.. keep it straight and move down to align the rest of the blade towards the flipper end of the cabinet. Don't push the whole thing down until you are sure your top 1/2 or more is straight.. as it plays out all the way down to the flippers. When it looks good, start at one end, work your way down flattening the decal to the cabinet from the top end.. then work your way down to the flipper area. Free up the decal if needed to avoid any bows or wrinkles. If the top end is secured nice and square.. you can free up the far end of the decal and just work your way down the cabinet.. ensuring its flat and in the right spot as you go.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I did have pinstadiums in the game.. so I pulled the magnets off before installing the art blades.. They still stayed nice and sticky. I cleaned the cabinet walls with naptha to remove any left over gum before installing the blades too.
While I had the cabinet broke down a bit.. I wanted to tackle some cabinet issues I had. Prior seller had removed the head hinge bolts to move the game (bad) and lost some of the hardware. So when I picked up the game, the head was loose. I secured it, but not well enough apparently and the head rubbed and took some of the paint off the metal hinge at the base of the head.
So I masked off the area.. and did some touchup with some Rustoleum Satin black.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Results are great... you can't even see the repair here
[quoted image]
And it's only visible under real direct light due to the nature of a paint chip
Once the art blades are installed... these are a must! https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
The price sucks.. but father's day is coming up, ask for a set for your gift. They work reallly well.
So plopped those on the cabinet.. and I dropped the PF back in myself and reconnected the wires.
With the art installed... I reinstalled the pinstadium lights. I set the magnets on the brackets so I made sure I had the correct orientation of the magnet strip to the light strip. Then simply aligned the led strip on the cabinet wall where I wanted them... sitting right near the top so you can't see any art at the top edge to distract your eye.. and still under the glass. With the blade positioned... I simply slide the led strip off the magnet strip.. and then with pressure with my fingers, just worked the magnet strip back and forth so it stuck well to the cabinet side. I let that setup a bit.. then put the LED strips back up.
And now she's all back together and boosted!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from delt31:

anyone else really like the premium translite more than the pro? I might buy it from stern sep as I'm going for a HUO pro right now....

Quoted from flynnibus:

Up next.. some more color...
The pinball life LED flipper kits. I've always liked their kits, and they've changed a bit over time... but still a great kit for the $. Has the built in controller and everything you need for an easy install.
From inside...
[quoted image]
From outside...
[quoted image]
Color picked for my premium scheme..
Now here's a tip.. because of the brightness of the LEDs and room around the apron... there usually is a lot of light leakage that is really distracting around the apron. Simply take some electrical tape and hood over the top half of the button to block the light. Make sure you don't obstruct the flipper plunger itself.. but beyond that, just place a piece or two to block the light.
[quoted image]
And now no light leakage!
[quoted image]
Up next.. on many games I like the trough illuminated.. but I wasn't sure on Maiden.. but I tried a yellow (because it's mostly orange) and a red. I like the cointaker strips because
1) They are cheap $5
2) They give you all the various adaptors you might need to steal a light socket or clip on.
Because all the lower GI bulbs are relatively hard to get to on the premium as they are under the flipper plates, etc.. I decided to jump off the GI that is under the apron itself. Because it's the LED boards.. most of the adaptors don't work, and aligator clips had high risk of shorting or slipping off. So instead, I snipped the socket off one of the adaptors.. and just easily tacked the wires to the solder pads on the LED board.
[quoted image]
This made it easy to plug in or change the strip if I wanted. On older games I would attach the LED strip to the vertical back of the outhole.. but I tried sticking it directly to the underside of the apron this time. It's decent.. but sometimes you can see the LED reflection if you stand over the PF. I'm 50/50 on the red on the premium here.. but have left it so far.
Up next was the LERMods Spitfire. The model looks good. Mounting it can be a bit fiddly though.
First, the two light sockets attached to the post stock, don't give a lot of room for play. Second, the stock screw didn't want to screw in fully and tight into the post. This meant when layering the plane in the stack under the screw.. It would not hold the plane in position.. and the wires of the light sockets constantly wanted to push the plane where I didn't want it. The solution was to add a washer to the stack, which tightened up the screw's hold on the layers.. and clipping the factory zip tie on the light sockets to bend the wires a good bit so they stopped bullying the plane around. Once tightened up and in position.. new zip ties held the wires in place. The harness feeds under the plastic and ramp... which was harder than it felt it should be.. but isn't bad, just annoying as my fat hands couldn't really reach the hole. The included cabling and connectors are easy and well done. Once installed, I checked it out...
[quoted image]
For the premium.. the red was a bit too much IMO.. I really wish I had some brightness control wired in (which in theory can be done downstream of the mod). Here it was on the PF.. and with the red in the plane off.
On
[quoted image]
Off
[quoted image]
I opt'd to leave it off. Maybe in the future I'll experiment with a in-line controller to dim the red underwing lights.
Next?? How about some art..
[quoted image]
Now here is where Spike is so much nicer. To install the art blades.. it's easiest on Spike just to remove the PF all together. All I had to do was free up the Cat5 cable in the cable loom (so cut three zip ties), and unplug 3 connectors. Then with the handle at the back and the apron... even an old dude with a broken back like me was able to lift the PF out and sit on the floor easily all by myself.
These are the album art blades by Tilt Graphics. Normally I'm a pingraphix guy.. but the art on these is fantastic and work so well with the game. Installing was easy. Just make sure to undo the two PF guides on the inside of the cabinet (as they will be in your way by about 1/2"). Just undo one side and rotate them down. With the PF out.. its easy to install the art blades without any fancy staging or prep.
Just peel from backing... With one hand, start the rear piece about 1/2" from the cabinet bolt and align the top of graphic right near, but not over the top edge of the wood. Tack up just the top edge, and with your other hand, try to align the top edge of the decal about 1/3 of the way down the cabinet with the top edge of the cabinet again.. Readjust as needed to get the blade tacked up and straight without any bows or folds. Don't push it all down yet! The blade will easily come right off if you only stick a small portion to start. Get the top 1/3 or so aligned, and just tacked up about the top 1" of the blade.. keep it straight and move down to align the rest of the blade towards the flipper end of the cabinet. Don't push the whole thing down until you are sure your top 1/2 or more is straight.. as it plays out all the way down to the flippers. When it looks good, start at one end, work your way down flattening the decal to the cabinet from the top end.. then work your way down to the flipper area. Free up the decal if needed to avoid any bows or wrinkles. If the top end is secured nice and square.. you can free up the far end of the decal and just work your way down the cabinet.. ensuring its flat and in the right spot as you go.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I did have pinstadiums in the game.. so I pulled the magnets off before installing the art blades.. They still stayed nice and sticky. I cleaned the cabinet walls with naptha to remove any left over gum before installing the blades too.
While I had the cabinet broke down a bit.. I wanted to tackle some cabinet issues I had. Prior seller had removed the head hinge bolts to move the game (bad) and lost some of the hardware. So when I picked up the game, the head was loose. I secured it, but not well enough apparently and the head rubbed and took some of the paint off the metal hinge at the base of the head.
So I masked off the area.. and did some touchup with some Rustoleum Satin black.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Results are great... you can't even see the repair here
[quoted image]
And it's only visible under real direct light due to the nature of a paint chip
Once the art blades are installed... these are a must! https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
The price sucks.. but father's day is coming up, ask for a set for your gift. They work reallly well.
So plopped those on the cabinet.. and I dropped the PF back in myself and reconnected the wires.
With the art installed... I reinstalled the pinstadium lights. I set the magnets on the brackets so I made sure I had the correct orientation of the magnet strip to the light strip. Then simply aligned the led strip on the cabinet wall where I wanted them... sitting right near the top so you can't see any art at the top edge to distract your eye.. and still under the glass. With the blade positioned... I simply slide the led strip off the magnet strip.. and then with pressure with my fingers, just worked the magnet strip back and forth so it stuck well to the cabinet side. I let that setup a bit.. then put the LED strips back up.
And now she's all back together and boosted!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from MJW:

I agree. Switched to prem translite for my pro. Is was like $100 from Stern. Did not like the pro one.

Quoted from CHIEF1893:

Good evening ladies and gentlemen today I purchase my 1st new in the Box iron maiden. I'm having an issue when launching the ball it hits the upper left mini flipper. Do you all have any suggestions. Also the ball flies off the main center ramp at times. Is there any parts that will make the game play smoother? current pitch is 6.7 and is level R to L. I appreciate joining this community and look foward to your responses. Cheers!

Quoted from delt31:

That ramp striping is a killer for me.  This game so needs pinstadiums b/c it's dark but I can't live with the stripes.

Quoted from PinMonk:

I dunno. We had a Pro on the route and then got a Premium, and I can't get the image out of my head that Eddie is a drum major in a parade of weirdos on the Premium translite. It's the way he's holding that scepter with his mouth open like he's barking orders.

Quoted from MJW:

I hear you . Even with that drum major Eddie I still liked it better than the pro. I also have custom apron with lit pharaohs so it matches better.
Delt 31, forgot to mention Stern charges $25 to ship a poster roll. Crazy. Hopefully they are still avail on Stern site if you want one.

Quoted from Lermods:

Looks good. The plane install is slightly more fiddly to install on the premium/LE because it has two spotlights while the pro only has one. We should probably include a longer screw for the premium/LE.

Quoted from delt31:

That ramp striping is a killer for me.  This game so needs pinstadiums b/c it's dark but I can't live with the stripes.  Scott is coming out with the fix apparently soon which is great news.  For me, when I get a pro, it's spotlights until the fix is out.  Same with deadpool.
Already ordered the premium translite as well. Surprised Stern sold it.....100 not bad.

Quoted from spandol:

You're going to have to adjust the shooter rod assembly so it hits the ball squarely in the center of the ball, or at least in the middle of the up/down (y) axis, by try to get it centered then screw the assembly back. It takes some trial and error to make it work like its suppose to, but you should get it. After that is done, you can adjust the power of the auto fire, for auto fire misses.

Okay Awesome thank you for the exanplantion, yes when the ball is shot upper center ramp it will hit the bullseye target and bounce back down it. Strange, doesn't happen every time but enough to notice.
Upper ramp, I'm not sure what exactly is wrong. At times the ball goes wild and doesn't hit the bullseye?

Quoted from flynnibus:

Ironically.. for me the striping is what sold me on the lights for Maiden. The striping goes with the mummy theme IMO. I think you could probably do away with it with just all white light.. but I like it.

Quoted from f3honda4me:

I totally hear you on that. My bass thumping car days are long gone. I turn the bass up until there is a hint of rattle then turn it down a tad. I hate rattling too.
On that note - she’s home!

Premium. We played a pro on location quite a bit. This one provides some great variety for us!
[quoted image]

Quoted from ahdelarge:

I have wanted an Iron Maiden Pro since release and at Christmas time, the local nightclub got an Iron Maiden Pro in their side bar. I've been playing it every 1-2 weeks since I found it there (my city hasn't had a new Stern pin since AC/DC was released). I love the cabinet art the best on the Pro, but have also been throwing around the idea of buying a Premium or LE when the time comes. Worried that the shine will have worn off the Pro if I buy one after playing it so much. Extra features might be nice.

Quoted from PinMonk:

The premium/le plays a lot different than the pro. After spending a lot of time on both, I prefer the Prem/LE play.

Quoted from Tranquilize:

Premium LE owners will argue for their choice and pro the same. Tough to get a straight answer on pinside.

Quoted from PinMonk:

In my case, at least, the difference is, we've had BOTH on the route, and I've played BOTH extensively. Not a normal owner situation. The Premium/LE plays a lot different than the pro due to the newton ball, center raising ramp (RotAM hurryup is MUCH easier) and left ramp for mummy loading plus shooting the ball out the back when you hit the captive ball to start mummy. I like the differences and recommend the Premium.
That said, unlike Deadpool where the Premium/LE is hands-down the best choice, for Iron Maiden it kind of comes down to personal preference since the two versions ARE so different.

Quoted from delt31:

agree - it's def not hands down the better pick like DP prem is over pro.
Well- I should have a pro by Friday or this weekend. Back in the club. Now off to change the music.....!!!