(Topic ID: 213089)

Up the Irons - Stern Iron Maiden Owners and True Fans Club!


By AlexSMendes

1 year ago



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There are 5587 posts in this topic. You are on page 95 of 112.
#4701 4 months ago

I would like to know if someone else feels the bottom right flipper lack a bit of strenght, already order a new coils and the coil sleeve, changed the strenght to hard, any other thing to look? im missing something? What is your degree pitch?

#4702 4 months ago
Quoted from RGAires:

I would like to know if someone else feels the bottom right flipper lack a bit of strenght, already order a new coils and the coil sleeve, changed the strenght to hard, any other thing to look? im missing something? What is your degree pitch?

I keep mine around 6.5-6.6 and I'm hitting loops no problem.

#4703 4 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

I keep mine around 6.5-6.6 and I'm hitting loops no problem.

Upper right flipper is very nice, the lower one is the problem...

#4704 4 months ago

I noticed this on my game too. I replaced the coil, sleeve, plunger, coil stop and eos switch. I also had a broken eos switch on the upper right flipper that I replaced. Seems better now after doing all that.

#4705 4 months ago
Quoted from RGAires:

Upper right flipper is very nice, the lower one is the problem...

My mistake. No noticable issues with any of my flippers.

#4706 4 months ago

I am going to be joining the club! Should get it next week sometime. I’ve read through a lot of the posts in this thread plus the Iron Maiden issues thread and wondering if I should plan on changing the coil for the auto plunge. Has that been the universal fix for auto plunge issues? Also, would it be a good idea to get the corner braces for this game or do the newer production runs have them? I’m not worried too much about aesthetic mods at this point, I just want to get my game dialed in ASAP after receiving it. What’s the best pitch this game should be at? Also, is the loop adjuster kit really necessary? It’s suppose to correct for really fast balls through the loop...Thanks, looking forward to exploring this game in much more depth.

#4707 4 months ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

I am going to be joining the club! Should get it next week sometime. I’ve read through a lot of the posts in this thread plus the Iron Maiden issues thread and wondering if I should plan on changing the coil for the auto plunge. Has that been the universal fix for auto plunge issues? Also, would it be a good idea to get the corner braces for this game or do the newer production runs have them? I’m not worried too much about aesthetic mods at this point, I just want to get my game dialed in ASAP after receiving it. What’s the best pitch this game should be at? Also, is the loop adjuster kit really necessary? It’s suppose to correct for really fast balls through the loop...Thanks, looking forward to exploring this game in much more depth.

Auto launch coil change will become necessary, but maybe not at the beginning
Corner braces are a good idea. Not that hard, and I put up a step-by-step how-to here
Loop adjuster, wait and see. Some machines don't have this problem.
Definitely get a shaker motor ASAP. The game makes very good use of them, and it's only about $100.

#4708 4 months ago

I recommend and would be most happy with

THESE

and this

#4709 4 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Auto launch coil change will become necessary, but maybe not at the beginning
Corner braces are a good idea. Not that hard, and I put up a step-by-step how-to here
Loop adjuster, wait and see. Some machines don't have this problem.
Definitely get a shaker motor ASAP. The game makes very good use of them, and it's only about $100.

What is the auto launch coil change? Is there a link?

#4711 4 months ago

@ yuriijos: as others have said, first thing I would consider installing would be shooter lane Cliffys.
Even with turning down the launch power to the lowest setting, my shooter lanes started chipping rather quickly on a few of my Stern titles.

#4712 4 months ago

My best loop effort. Previous was 65.

DCA03F7D-540E-4045-B1FE-7BDDE6AF93B3 (resized).jpeg
#4713 4 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Auto launch coil change will become necessary, but maybe not at the beginning
Corner braces are a good idea. Not that hard, and I put up a step-by-step how-to here
Loop adjuster, wait and see. Some machines don't have this problem.
Definitely get a shaker motor ASAP. The game makes very good use of them, and it's only about $100.

I can’t believe Stern has not installed better corner braces on these games. I thought they changed that shit.

#4714 4 months ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

I can’t believe Stern has not installed better corner braces on these games. I thought they changed that shit.

It's weird, they make a step back in the right direction, then it's back to cost reduction land and it goes away.

#4715 4 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's weird, they make a step back in the right direction, then it's back to cost reduction land and it goes away.

At least we got the service Rails back!

#4716 4 months ago

Has anyone installed the custkm egypt side armor on the premium? Please share photos id like to see how it looks.

#4717 4 months ago

anyone else really like the premium translite more than the pro? I might buy it from stern sep as I'm going for a HUO pro right now....

#4718 4 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

anyone else really like the premium translite more than the pro? I might buy it from stern sep as I'm going for a HUO pro right now....

I like the premium art package the most of all the models

#4719 4 months ago

I like the pro. Too much power slave in the premium for me. I'd go LE if it were in my budget though.

#4720 4 months ago

I think the LE art is the coolest. Too bad the band agreed and made Stern swap the Premium and LE art...

#4721 4 months ago
Quoted from newtoit:

Has anyone installed the custkm egypt side armor on the premium? Please share photos id like to see how it looks.

Do you mean this one, the stern one? If so here you go, I like it!:
(Place is a mess right now so ignore all the stuff around and under the pin! Just took some quick pics)

20190602_143249 (resized).jpg20190602_143310 (resized).jpg20190602_143550 (resized).jpg20190602_143257 (resized).jpg
#4722 4 months ago
Quoted from charles4400:

Do you mean this one, the stern one? If so here you go, I like it!:
(Place is a mess right now so ignore all the stuff around and under the pin! Just took some quick pics)[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow that looks awesome!!

#4723 4 months ago

Good evening ladies and gentlemen today I purchase my 1st new in the Box iron maiden. I'm having an issue when launching the ball it hits the upper left mini flipper. Do you all have any suggestions. Also the ball flies off the main center ramp at times. Is there any parts that will make the game play smoother? current pitch is 6.7 and is level R to L. I appreciate joining this community and look foward to your responses. Cheers!

#4724 4 months ago

How do you measure the pitch.. is there an app for this?

#4725 4 months ago
Quoted from newtoit:

How do you measure the pitch.. is there an app for this?

I use an app some insist on inclinometer which is more precise

#4726 4 months ago

So, after waiting for prices to come down a bit... I finally got my Maiden Premium about a month ago.

It's gotten some love over the last few days.. so let's go on a trip

First change was an upgrade to Flipper Fidelity. Michael makes great kits and I can't recommend them enough. Here's the backbox speakers vs stock
IMG_5757 copy (resized).jpg

Sub vs stock..
IMG_5759 copy (resized).jpg

Nice adaptor ring for the sub
IMG_5758 copy (resized).jpg

The kit also includes spacers to allow the tweeter to avoid the speaker grille... but I was going to install speaker lights which make the whole panel move back.. so the grilles had to be cut out. This is only because of the combination of the two mods..

Image from iOS (3) (resized).jpg
A little cutting wheel.. a little grinding wheel to clean up.. and some dabs with the paint pen.. and the grilles are easily modified

I don't like that the speaker kits use all plastic standoffs.. but I guess its done to avoid shorting the LEDs.. but I don't like the risk of stripping and lack of firm fits. But here is the back panel with the wiring laid out and secured
IMG_5762 copy (resized).jpg

Some close-ups of what they look like with foam in..
Image from iOS (4) (resized).jpg

And the final look...
IMG_5765 copy (resized).jpg
(intentionally with the brightness down to my taste for the look)

I had to choose if I wanted to leave the speaker foam in or not... I opt'd to leave it in for a more diffused look.

Also, because of the power supply at the bottom right of the head... if you have anything big plugged into the service outlet.. it's not gonna fit anymore. So order one of these cheap pigtail cables to 'move' the plug.
amazon.com link »
$5 and free one-day prime shipping. Can't beat that.

#4727 4 months ago

Up next.. some more color...

The pinball life LED flipper kits. I've always liked their kits, and they've changed a bit over time... but still a great kit for the $. Has the built in controller and everything you need for an easy install.

From inside...
IMG_5766 copy (resized).jpg

From outside...
IMG_5767 copy (resized).jpg
Color picked for my premium scheme..

Now here's a tip.. because of the brightness of the LEDs and room around the apron... there usually is a lot of light leakage that is really distracting around the apron. Simply take some electrical tape and hood over the top half of the button to block the light. Make sure you don't obstruct the flipper plunger itself.. but beyond that, just place a piece or two to block the light.

IMG_5768 copy (resized).jpg

And now no light leakage!
IMG_5773 copy (resized).jpg

Up next.. on many games I like the trough illuminated.. but I wasn't sure on Maiden.. but I tried a yellow (because it's mostly orange) and a red. I like the cointaker strips because
1) They are cheap $5
2) They give you all the various adaptors you might need to steal a light socket or clip on.

Because all the lower GI bulbs are relatively hard to get to on the premium as they are under the flipper plates, etc.. I decided to jump off the GI that is under the apron itself. Because it's the LED boards.. most of the adaptors don't work, and aligator clips had high risk of shorting or slipping off. So instead, I snipped the socket off one of the adaptors.. and just easily tacked the wires to the solder pads on the LED board.

Image from iOS (5) (resized).jpg

This made it easy to plug in or change the strip if I wanted. On older games I would attach the LED strip to the vertical back of the outhole.. but I tried sticking it directly to the underside of the apron this time. It's decent.. but sometimes you can see the LED reflection if you stand over the PF. I'm 50/50 on the red on the premium here.. but have left it so far.

Up next was the LERMods Spitfire. The model looks good. Mounting it can be a bit fiddly though.

First, the two light sockets attached to the post stock, don't give a lot of room for play. Second, the stock screw didn't want to screw in fully and tight into the post. This meant when layering the plane in the stack under the screw.. It would not hold the plane in position.. and the wires of the light sockets constantly wanted to push the plane where I didn't want it. The solution was to add a washer to the stack, which tightened up the screw's hold on the layers.. and clipping the factory zip tie on the light sockets to bend the wires a good bit so they stopped bullying the plane around. Once tightened up and in position.. new zip ties held the wires in place. The harness feeds under the plastic and ramp... which was harder than it felt it should be.. but isn't bad, just annoying as my fat hands couldn't really reach the hole. The included cabling and connectors are easy and well done. Once installed, I checked it out...

IMG_5789 copy (resized).jpg

For the premium.. the red was a bit too much IMO.. I really wish I had some brightness control wired in (which in theory can be done downstream of the mod). Here it was on the PF.. and with the red in the plane off.

On
IMG_5790 copy (resized).jpg

Off
IMG_5792 copy (resized).jpg

I opt'd to leave it off. Maybe in the future I'll experiment with a in-line controller to dim the red underwing lights.

Next?? How about some art..

Image from iOS (6) (resized).jpg

Now here is where Spike is so much nicer. To install the art blades.. it's easiest on Spike just to remove the PF all together. All I had to do was free up the Cat5 cable in the cable loom (so cut three zip ties), and unplug 3 connectors. Then with the handle at the back and the apron... even an old dude with a broken back like me was able to lift the PF out and sit on the floor easily all by myself.

These are the album art blades by Tilt Graphics. Normally I'm a pingraphix guy.. but the art on these is fantastic and work so well with the game. Installing was easy. Just make sure to undo the two PF guides on the inside of the cabinet (as they will be in your way by about 1/2"). Just undo one side and rotate them down. With the PF out.. its easy to install the art blades without any fancy staging or prep.

Just peel from backing... With one hand, start the rear piece about 1/2" from the cabinet bolt and align the top of graphic right near, but not over the top edge of the wood. Tack up just the top edge, and with your other hand, try to align the top edge of the decal about 1/3 of the way down the cabinet with the top edge of the cabinet again.. Readjust as needed to get the blade tacked up and straight without any bows or folds. Don't push it all down yet! The blade will easily come right off if you only stick a small portion to start. Get the top 1/3 or so aligned, and just tacked up about the top 1" of the blade.. keep it straight and move down to align the rest of the blade towards the flipper end of the cabinet. Don't push the whole thing down until you are sure your top 1/2 or more is straight.. as it plays out all the way down to the flippers. When it looks good, start at one end, work your way down flattening the decal to the cabinet from the top end.. then work your way down to the flipper area. Free up the decal if needed to avoid any bows or wrinkles. If the top end is secured nice and square.. you can free up the far end of the decal and just work your way down the cabinet.. ensuring its flat and in the right spot as you go.

Image from iOS (6) (resized).jpg
IMG_5816 copy (resized).jpg

I did have pinstadiums in the game.. so I pulled the magnets off before installing the art blades.. They still stayed nice and sticky. I cleaned the cabinet walls with naptha to remove any left over gum before installing the blades too.

While I had the cabinet broke down a bit.. I wanted to tackle some cabinet issues I had. Prior seller had removed the head hinge bolts to move the game (bad) and lost some of the hardware. So when I picked up the game, the head was loose. I secured it, but not well enough apparently and the head rubbed and took some of the paint off the metal hinge at the base of the head.

So I masked off the area.. and did some touchup with some Rustoleum Satin black.

IMG_5818 copy (resized).jpgIMG_5819 copy (resized).jpg

Results are great... you can't even see the repair here
IMG_5820 copy (resized).jpg

And it's only visible under real direct light due to the nature of a paint chip

Once the art blades are installed... these are a must! https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
The price sucks.. but father's day is coming up, ask for a set for your gift. They work reallly well.

So plopped those on the cabinet.. and I dropped the PF back in myself and reconnected the wires.

With the art installed... I reinstalled the pinstadium lights. I set the magnets on the brackets so I made sure I had the correct orientation of the magnet strip to the light strip. Then simply aligned the led strip on the cabinet wall where I wanted them... sitting right near the top so you can't see any art at the top edge to distract your eye.. and still under the glass. With the blade positioned... I simply slide the led strip off the magnet strip.. and then with pressure with my fingers, just worked the magnet strip back and forth so it stuck well to the cabinet side. I let that setup a bit.. then put the LED strips back up.

And now she's all back together and boosted!
IMG_5828 copy (resized).jpg

IMG_5771 copy (resized).jpg
#4728 4 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Up next.. some more color...
The pinball life LED flipper kits. I've always liked their kits, and they've changed a bit over time... but still a great kit for the $. Has the built in controller and everything you need for an easy install.
From inside...
[quoted image]
From outside...
[quoted image]
Color picked for my premium scheme..
Now here's a tip.. because of the brightness of the LEDs and room around the apron... there usually is a lot of light leakage that is really distracting around the apron. Simply take some electrical tape and hood over the top half of the button to block the light. Make sure you don't obstruct the flipper plunger itself.. but beyond that, just place a piece or two to block the light.
[quoted image]
And now no light leakage!
[quoted image]
Up next.. on many games I like the trough illuminated.. but I wasn't sure on Maiden.. but I tried a yellow (because it's mostly orange) and a red. I like the cointaker strips because
1) They are cheap $5
2) They give you all the various adaptors you might need to steal a light socket or clip on.
Because all the lower GI bulbs are relatively hard to get to on the premium as they are under the flipper plates, etc.. I decided to jump off the GI that is under the apron itself. Because it's the LED boards.. most of the adaptors don't work, and aligator clips had high risk of shorting or slipping off. So instead, I snipped the socket off one of the adaptors.. and just easily tacked the wires to the solder pads on the LED board.
[quoted image]
This made it easy to plug in or change the strip if I wanted. On older games I would attach the LED strip to the vertical back of the outhole.. but I tried sticking it directly to the underside of the apron this time. It's decent.. but sometimes you can see the LED reflection if you stand over the PF. I'm 50/50 on the red on the premium here.. but have left it so far.
Up next was the LERMods Spitfire. The model looks good. Mounting it can be a bit fiddly though.
First, the two light sockets attached to the post stock, don't give a lot of room for play. Second, the stock screw didn't want to screw in fully and tight into the post. This meant when layering the plane in the stack under the screw.. It would not hold the plane in position.. and the wires of the light sockets constantly wanted to push the plane where I didn't want it. The solution was to add a washer to the stack, which tightened up the screw's hold on the layers.. and clipping the factory zip tie on the light sockets to bend the wires a good bit so they stopped bullying the plane around. Once tightened up and in position.. new zip ties held the wires in place. The harness feeds under the plastic and ramp... which was harder than it felt it should be.. but isn't bad, just annoying as my fat hands couldn't really reach the hole. The included cabling and connectors are easy and well done. Once installed, I checked it out...
[quoted image]
For the premium.. the red was a bit too much IMO.. I really wish I had some brightness control wired in (which in theory can be done downstream of the mod). Here it was on the PF.. and with the red in the plane off.
On
[quoted image]
Off
[quoted image]
I opt'd to leave it off. Maybe in the future I'll experiment with a in-line controller to dim the red underwing lights.
Next?? How about some art..
[quoted image]
Now here is where Spike is so much nicer. To install the art blades.. it's easiest on Spike just to remove the PF all together. All I had to do was free up the Cat5 cable in the cable loom (so cut three zip ties), and unplug 3 connectors. Then with the handle at the back and the apron... even an old dude with a broken back like me was able to lift the PF out and sit on the floor easily all by myself.
These are the album art blades by Tilt Graphics. Normally I'm a pingraphix guy.. but the art on these is fantastic and work so well with the game. Installing was easy. Just make sure to undo the two PF guides on the inside of the cabinet (as they will be in your way by about 1/2"). Just undo one side and rotate them down. With the PF out.. its easy to install the art blades without any fancy staging or prep.
Just peel from backing... With one hand, start the rear piece about 1/2" from the cabinet bolt and align the top of graphic right near, but not over the top edge of the wood. Tack up just the top edge, and with your other hand, try to align the top edge of the decal about 1/3 of the way down the cabinet with the top edge of the cabinet again.. Readjust as needed to get the blade tacked up and straight without any bows or folds. Don't push it all down yet! The blade will easily come right off if you only stick a small portion to start. Get the top 1/3 or so aligned, and just tacked up about the top 1" of the blade.. keep it straight and move down to align the rest of the blade towards the flipper end of the cabinet. Don't push the whole thing down until you are sure your top 1/2 or more is straight.. as it plays out all the way down to the flippers. When it looks good, start at one end, work your way down flattening the decal to the cabinet from the top end.. then work your way down to the flipper area. Free up the decal if needed to avoid any bows or wrinkles. If the top end is secured nice and square.. you can free up the far end of the decal and just work your way down the cabinet.. ensuring its flat and in the right spot as you go.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I did have pinstadiums in the game.. so I pulled the magnets off before installing the art blades.. They still stayed nice and sticky. I cleaned the cabinet walls with naptha to remove any left over gum before installing the blades too.
While I had the cabinet broke down a bit.. I wanted to tackle some cabinet issues I had. Prior seller had removed the head hinge bolts to move the game (bad) and lost some of the hardware. So when I picked up the game, the head was loose. I secured it, but not well enough apparently and the head rubbed and took some of the paint off the metal hinge at the base of the head.
So I masked off the area.. and did some touchup with some Rustoleum Satin black.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Results are great... you can't even see the repair here
[quoted image]
And it's only visible under real direct light due to the nature of a paint chip
Once the art blades are installed... these are a must! https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
The price sucks.. but father's day is coming up, ask for a set for your gift. They work reallly well.
So plopped those on the cabinet.. and I dropped the PF back in myself and reconnected the wires.
With the art installed... I reinstalled the pinstadium lights. I set the magnets on the brackets so I made sure I had the correct orientation of the magnet strip to the light strip. Then simply aligned the led strip on the cabinet wall where I wanted them... sitting right near the top so you can't see any art at the top edge to distract your eye.. and still under the glass. With the blade positioned... I simply slide the led strip off the magnet strip.. and then with pressure with my fingers, just worked the magnet strip back and forth so it stuck well to the cabinet side. I let that setup a bit.. then put the LED strips back up.
And now she's all back together and boosted!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good. The plane install is slightly more fiddly to install on the premium/LE because it has two spotlights while the pro only has one. We should probably include a longer screw for the premium/LE.

#4729 4 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

anyone else really like the premium translite more than the pro? I might buy it from stern sep as I'm going for a HUO pro right now....

I agree. Switched to prem translite for my pro. Is was like $100 from Stern. Did not like the pro one.

#4730 4 months ago

Why does that backglass look so cheesy...

#4731 4 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Up next.. some more color...
The pinball life LED flipper kits. I've always liked their kits, and they've changed a bit over time... but still a great kit for the $. Has the built in controller and everything you need for an easy install.
From inside...
[quoted image]
From outside...
[quoted image]
Color picked for my premium scheme..
Now here's a tip.. because of the brightness of the LEDs and room around the apron... there usually is a lot of light leakage that is really distracting around the apron. Simply take some electrical tape and hood over the top half of the button to block the light. Make sure you don't obstruct the flipper plunger itself.. but beyond that, just place a piece or two to block the light.
[quoted image]
And now no light leakage!
[quoted image]
Up next.. on many games I like the trough illuminated.. but I wasn't sure on Maiden.. but I tried a yellow (because it's mostly orange) and a red. I like the cointaker strips because
1) They are cheap $5
2) They give you all the various adaptors you might need to steal a light socket or clip on.
Because all the lower GI bulbs are relatively hard to get to on the premium as they are under the flipper plates, etc.. I decided to jump off the GI that is under the apron itself. Because it's the LED boards.. most of the adaptors don't work, and aligator clips had high risk of shorting or slipping off. So instead, I snipped the socket off one of the adaptors.. and just easily tacked the wires to the solder pads on the LED board.
[quoted image]
This made it easy to plug in or change the strip if I wanted. On older games I would attach the LED strip to the vertical back of the outhole.. but I tried sticking it directly to the underside of the apron this time. It's decent.. but sometimes you can see the LED reflection if you stand over the PF. I'm 50/50 on the red on the premium here.. but have left it so far.
Up next was the LERMods Spitfire. The model looks good. Mounting it can be a bit fiddly though.
First, the two light sockets attached to the post stock, don't give a lot of room for play. Second, the stock screw didn't want to screw in fully and tight into the post. This meant when layering the plane in the stack under the screw.. It would not hold the plane in position.. and the wires of the light sockets constantly wanted to push the plane where I didn't want it. The solution was to add a washer to the stack, which tightened up the screw's hold on the layers.. and clipping the factory zip tie on the light sockets to bend the wires a good bit so they stopped bullying the plane around. Once tightened up and in position.. new zip ties held the wires in place. The harness feeds under the plastic and ramp... which was harder than it felt it should be.. but isn't bad, just annoying as my fat hands couldn't really reach the hole. The included cabling and connectors are easy and well done. Once installed, I checked it out...
[quoted image]
For the premium.. the red was a bit too much IMO.. I really wish I had some brightness control wired in (which in theory can be done downstream of the mod). Here it was on the PF.. and with the red in the plane off.
On
[quoted image]
Off
[quoted image]
I opt'd to leave it off. Maybe in the future I'll experiment with a in-line controller to dim the red underwing lights.
Next?? How about some art..
[quoted image]
Now here is where Spike is so much nicer. To install the art blades.. it's easiest on Spike just to remove the PF all together. All I had to do was free up the Cat5 cable in the cable loom (so cut three zip ties), and unplug 3 connectors. Then with the handle at the back and the apron... even an old dude with a broken back like me was able to lift the PF out and sit on the floor easily all by myself.
These are the album art blades by Tilt Graphics. Normally I'm a pingraphix guy.. but the art on these is fantastic and work so well with the game. Installing was easy. Just make sure to undo the two PF guides on the inside of the cabinet (as they will be in your way by about 1/2"). Just undo one side and rotate them down. With the PF out.. its easy to install the art blades without any fancy staging or prep.
Just peel from backing... With one hand, start the rear piece about 1/2" from the cabinet bolt and align the top of graphic right near, but not over the top edge of the wood. Tack up just the top edge, and with your other hand, try to align the top edge of the decal about 1/3 of the way down the cabinet with the top edge of the cabinet again.. Readjust as needed to get the blade tacked up and straight without any bows or folds. Don't push it all down yet! The blade will easily come right off if you only stick a small portion to start. Get the top 1/3 or so aligned, and just tacked up about the top 1" of the blade.. keep it straight and move down to align the rest of the blade towards the flipper end of the cabinet. Don't push the whole thing down until you are sure your top 1/2 or more is straight.. as it plays out all the way down to the flippers. When it looks good, start at one end, work your way down flattening the decal to the cabinet from the top end.. then work your way down to the flipper area. Free up the decal if needed to avoid any bows or wrinkles. If the top end is secured nice and square.. you can free up the far end of the decal and just work your way down the cabinet.. ensuring its flat and in the right spot as you go.
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I did have pinstadiums in the game.. so I pulled the magnets off before installing the art blades.. They still stayed nice and sticky. I cleaned the cabinet walls with naptha to remove any left over gum before installing the blades too.
While I had the cabinet broke down a bit.. I wanted to tackle some cabinet issues I had. Prior seller had removed the head hinge bolts to move the game (bad) and lost some of the hardware. So when I picked up the game, the head was loose. I secured it, but not well enough apparently and the head rubbed and took some of the paint off the metal hinge at the base of the head.
So I masked off the area.. and did some touchup with some Rustoleum Satin black.
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Results are great... you can't even see the repair here
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And it's only visible under real direct light due to the nature of a paint chip
Once the art blades are installed... these are a must! https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
The price sucks.. but father's day is coming up, ask for a set for your gift. They work reallly well.
So plopped those on the cabinet.. and I dropped the PF back in myself and reconnected the wires.
With the art installed... I reinstalled the pinstadium lights. I set the magnets on the brackets so I made sure I had the correct orientation of the magnet strip to the light strip. Then simply aligned the led strip on the cabinet wall where I wanted them... sitting right near the top so you can't see any art at the top edge to distract your eye.. and still under the glass. With the blade positioned... I simply slide the led strip off the magnet strip.. and then with pressure with my fingers, just worked the magnet strip back and forth so it stuck well to the cabinet side. I let that setup a bit.. then put the LED strips back up.
And now she's all back together and boosted!
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That ramp striping is a killer for me.  This game so needs pinstadiums b/c it's dark but I can't live with the stripes.  Scott is coming out with the fix apparently soon which is great news.  For me, when I get a pro, it's spotlights until the fix is out.  Same with deadpool.

Already ordered the premium translite as well. Surprised Stern sold it.....100 not bad.

#4732 4 months ago
Quoted from MJW:

I agree. Switched to prem translite for my pro. Is was like $100 from Stern. Did not like the pro one.

I dunno. We had a Pro on the route and then got a Premium, and I can't get the image out of my head that Eddie is a drum major in a parade of weirdos on the Premium translite. It's the way he's holding that scepter with his mouth open like he's barking orders.

#4733 4 months ago
Quoted from CHIEF1893:

Good evening ladies and gentlemen today I purchase my 1st new in the Box iron maiden. I'm having an issue when launching the ball it hits the upper left mini flipper. Do you all have any suggestions. Also the ball flies off the main center ramp at times. Is there any parts that will make the game play smoother? current pitch is 6.7 and is level R to L. I appreciate joining this community and look foward to your responses. Cheers!

You're going to have to adjust the shooter rod assembly so it hits the ball squarely in the center of the ball, or at least in the middle of the up/down (y) axis, by try to get it centered then screw the assembly back. It takes some trial and error to make it work like its suppose to, but you should get it. After that is done, you can adjust the power of the auto fire, for auto fire misses.

Upper ramp, I'm not sure what exactly is wrong. At times the ball goes wild and doesn't hit the bullseye?

#4734 4 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

That ramp striping is a killer for me.  This game so needs pinstadiums b/c it's dark but I can't live with the stripes.

Spotlight kits from Comet. I put one on each sling and it lights up the middle of the playfield quite nicely and at a fraction of the cost of overpriced pinstadiums.

#4735 4 months ago

Yes that's what I'm doing for now. Big fan of pinstadium though too. Have many for my games.... Just not the right fit for this game imo based on current PS tech

#4736 4 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

I dunno. We had a Pro on the route and then got a Premium, and I can't get the image out of my head that Eddie is a drum major in a parade of weirdos on the Premium translite. It's the way he's holding that scepter with his mouth open like he's barking orders.

I hear you . Even with that drum major Eddie I still liked it better than the pro. I also have custom apron with lit pharaohs so it matches better.
Delt 31, forgot to mention Stern charges $25 to ship a poster roll. Crazy. Hopefully they are still avail on Stern site if you want one.

#4737 4 months ago
Quoted from MJW:

I hear you . Even with that drum major Eddie I still liked it better than the pro. I also have custom apron with lit pharaohs so it matches better.
Delt 31, forgot to mention Stern charges $25 to ship a poster roll. Crazy. Hopefully they are still avail on Stern site if you want one.

Probably cheaper to have Terry at Pinball Life special order it for you. I we got the Deadpool Pro translite (to replace the Premium one) for like $77. I imagine Iron Maiden is similar.

#4738 4 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Looks good. The plane install is slightly more fiddly to install on the premium/LE because it has two spotlights while the pro only has one. We should probably include a longer screw for the premium/LE.

The screw length is part of the problem I think. You simply can't get the screw tight as it seems to bottom out. In hindsight, I should have just tried with a shorter screw out of the toolbox! It doesn't help that the screw threads hold in the light brackets.. so the brackets fight you as well. That's why I added the washer to take up some of the slack in the stack. With that and moving the bulb's wires around some... it's passable. It's just a really crowded space. Plus, the flasher is bent down.. so it wants to interfere with the plane's bracket too. I did not try putting the light UNDER the plane's bracket.. instead opt'ing to flatted it out.. and then try to bend it after everything was installed.

All the things I remember when not typing at 1am

#4739 4 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

That ramp striping is a killer for me.  This game so needs pinstadiums b/c it's dark but I can't live with the stripes.  Scott is coming out with the fix apparently soon which is great news.  For me, when I get a pro, it's spotlights until the fix is out.  Same with deadpool.
Already ordered the premium translite as well. Surprised Stern sold it.....100 not bad.

Ironically.. for me the striping is what sold me on the lights for Maiden. The striping goes with the mummy theme IMO. I think you could probably do away with it with just all white light.. but I like it.

#4740 4 months ago
Quoted from spandol:

You're going to have to adjust the shooter rod assembly so it hits the ball squarely in the center of the ball, or at least in the middle of the up/down (y) axis, by try to get it centered then screw the assembly back. It takes some trial and error to make it work like its suppose to, but you should get it. After that is done, you can adjust the power of the auto fire, for auto fire misses.

Okay Awesome thank you for the exanplantion, yes when the ball is shot upper center ramp it will hit the bullseye target and bounce back down it. Strange, doesn't happen every time but enough to notice.
Upper ramp, I'm not sure what exactly is wrong. At times the ball goes wild and doesn't hit the bullseye?

#4741 4 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Ironically.. for me the striping is what sold me on the lights for Maiden. The striping goes with the mummy theme IMO. I think you could probably do away with it with just all white light.. but I like it.

Man I would love to view it that way! All white would still stripe but luckily Scott is releasing an update soon to fix this.

#4742 4 months ago

Just ordered an IMDN premium version and I had to get this mod From PinMonk. Fast shipper and put it a box like a jewelry ring. Love It! Like another Pinside, I had my daughter (who is very artistic) paint it up for me and I think she did a fantastic job! Can’t wait to get the pin and install this mod. Thanks again PinMonk!

C8F60ADB-1205-4BD5-BF97-54ECF421CAFB (resized).jpeg
#4743 4 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

I totally hear you on that. My bass thumping car days are long gone. I turn the bass up until there is a hint of rattle then turn it down a tad. I hate rattling too.
On that note - she’s home!

Premium. We played a pro on location quite a bit. This one provides some great variety for us!
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I have wanted an Iron Maiden Pro since release and at Christmas time, the local nightclub got an Iron Maiden Pro in their side bar. I've been playing it every 1-2 weeks since I found it there (my city hasn't had a new Stern pin since AC/DC was released). I love the cabinet art the best on the Pro, but have also been throwing around the idea of buying a Premium or LE when the time comes. Worried that the shine will have worn off the Pro if I buy one after playing it so much. Extra features might be nice.

#4744 4 months ago
Quoted from ahdelarge:

I have wanted an Iron Maiden Pro since release and at Christmas time, the local nightclub got an Iron Maiden Pro in their side bar. I've been playing it every 1-2 weeks since I found it there (my city hasn't had a new Stern pin since AC/DC was released). I love the cabinet art the best on the Pro, but have also been throwing around the idea of buying a Premium or LE when the time comes. Worried that the shine will have worn off the Pro if I buy one after playing it so much. Extra features might be nice.

The premium/le plays a lot different than the pro. After spending a lot of time on both, I prefer the Prem/LE play.

#4745 4 months ago

Love shooting for the left ramp, getting the ball straight between the pops and up into the tomb opening for a lock. Very satisfying and one of my favorite shots on the LE.

#4746 4 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

The premium/le plays a lot different than the pro. After spending a lot of time on both, I prefer the Prem/LE play.

I was willing to pay for the left orbit to right flipper shot on DP premium b/c that allowed the prem to flow so much better than pro. On Iron Maiden, it's prob (for me) the clearest pro choice considering the extras on the prem/le. Now - have to find one near me....haha

#4747 4 months ago

Premium LE owners will argue for their choice and pro the same. Tough to get a straight answer on pinside.

#4748 4 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Premium LE owners will argue for their choice and pro the same. Tough to get a straight answer on pinside.

In my case, at least, the difference is, we've had BOTH on the route, and I've played BOTH extensively. Not a normal owner situation. The Premium/LE plays a lot different than the pro due to the newton ball, center raising ramp (RotAM hurryup is MUCH easier) and left ramp for mummy loading plus shooting the ball out the back when you hit the captive ball to start mummy. I like the differences and recommend the Premium.

That said, unlike Deadpool where the Premium/LE is hands-down the best choice, for Iron Maiden it kind of comes down to personal preference since the two versions ARE so different.

#4749 4 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

In my case, at least, the difference is, we've had BOTH on the route, and I've played BOTH extensively. Not a normal owner situation. The Premium/LE plays a lot different than the pro due to the newton ball, center raising ramp (RotAM hurryup is MUCH easier) and left ramp for mummy loading plus shooting the ball out the back when you hit the captive ball to start mummy. I like the differences and recommend the Premium.
That said, unlike Deadpool where the Premium/LE is hands-down the best choice, for Iron Maiden it kind of comes down to personal preference since the two versions ARE so different.

agree - it's def not hands down the better pick like DP prem is over pro.

Well- I should have a pro by Friday or this weekend. Back in the club. Now off to change the music.....!!!

#4750 4 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

agree - it's def not hands down the better pick like DP prem is over pro.
Well- I should have a pro by Friday or this weekend. Back in the club. Now off to change the music.....!!!

I will probably just go for the Pro to save the money for the next game and spend a few dollars on adding some mods.....will see what happens when the time comes. Another thing, I'm no a big fan of the look of the Premium cabinet. It looks great, but not for me.

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