Interesting the air plane toppers has been removed from Stern's site. Do you really think it sold out that quickly?

I have decided to go the Tilt topper route on my premium. I just can't justify the $400 for the mummy topper and the air plane one just doesn't fit the theme for the premium machine.

Does Maiden have a magnet anywhere in the playfield? I don't see one in manual but I could swear there are times the balls spin off in directions not expected other than with magnet use.

No magnets in the game

There was a thread where I asked, but no information was shared. I'm not sure he knows, but it's important information on this kind of product.

I'd like to see what the IMDN ones look like with just the inner yellow light and no square red light. I really dislike the large rectangular speaker box they use on these games.

I concur. Pinstadium style lighting works well on some games but others it destroys the ambiance.

UV lighting is no joke. 12-13 years ago my brother and I worked for a building automation contractor and while putting controls in commercial rooftop package units, he came across some that had UV lighting in. No warning signs or protection doors so he didn’t think twice and proceeded to do his work. That night; complete eye pain and went 100% blind. Doctors said the UV Burned his retinas much like a very bad sun burn, but on directly to your eyes. And like a sunburn, it would go away in time as the body healed itself. Thankfully, his vision did come back a couple days later and he hasn’t complained about any vision issues since nor does he wear glasss. Scairy for sure.

That said, the UV in pinstadiums are probably not remotely even close to the commercial grade UV’s in AC units.

But the amount of exposure can be a LOT over time in a pinball machine, and there's zero documentation of what nm the wavelengths are on it. It's an important omission.

It doesn't look good in my opinion (which is why I didn't sell them like this). Especially with the bars left in the speaker plate holes and the factory speaker plates making the lit holes off center in the grill area (not as noticeable in this picture since the room lighting is off).

This is not one of my light kits, but my Type 10 light kits (SPIKE 1) can be modified or creatively mounted to work in SPIKE 2 games. I could have had these listed on my website the day after Batman 66 was announced (and some users did buy my Type 10 Speaker Light Kits to do this), but instead I took the time to design a light kit to light the entire grill area.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Not My SLK (resized).jpg

Two color (one lighter shade for the circle, and a slightly darker shade for the square) might look awesome. It'd be more work to make and a little more to install, but it should look good.

Hard to tell from one pic but I think I prefer that.

Thanks for posting it.

I like how deadpool looks like a Canada flag. That crazy Canucklehead

I ordered what I needed for the yo dawg lights today
Can’t wait I think it is by far the best looking speaker light application for the new sterns

I just called Stern. They said that the Aces High topper sold out, but they expect more around the 1st of the year.

Wow, they sold all 3 of them?

So I was just playing, had mummy sarcophagus up and ready for a ball lock. Had a weird bounce off the drop targets and it ended you in the lock.

The game actually had a 'dirty pool' call-out.

Awesome!

If I'm remembering right I was messing around with the coin door volume during play when I heard it on mine. It made me grin but I'm not entirely sure what I did

That’s funny, I just heard that during attract mode last night!

Yeah those callouts are great...dirty pool from TAF, the “ 2x completed” sounds straight outta Centaur and I also got “Feel my Power” from Sorcerer the other day.
Wonder what other old school callouts are hidden in there.

I thought dirty pool was afm. When you sneak a ball behind the target wall as it goes up.

Taf when you sneak a ball into the vault while the bookcase is still closed.. I dunno about afm.

The callouts are great, I can't recall who at Stern organised the audio for The Beast and Clair. ?
Thank you and I'm guessing the team for coming up with some great 1 liners
I hope there might be a couple of other little gems in there that we might hear with next code polish

SHOW-TIME...!

This game rocks! Leave with your balls gone..

I like "flight of brickerus".

Loneliness of the short distance flipper is great too

I think that sounds like what I already sell. So really....not much work at all. They are 2 separate light kits. A Type 11 light kit for SPIKE 2 games (that light the entire rectangle honeycomb grill area) and a Type 10 light Kit for SPIKE 1 games (that light the inner, round speaker hole). Each are controlled by separate RGB controllers with a 44 key remote. These controllers make it so you can make (by adjusting the red, green and blue levels) your own static colors that can be save to the remotes 6 DIY buttons. So you can independently make and store the colors you would like each of the (inner and outer) light kits to be.

For this setup I also sell a SPIKE 2 Replacement Speaker Plate. This makes it so my Type 10 light kits can be mounted in the small round speaker holes. This plate also has the bars removed from the speaker holes and centers the speaker holes in the honeycomb grill area. These Replacement Speaker Plates can only be used with my SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits. I do not have these listed on my website yet, but I do have them available. They work great for the "Yo Dawg" Speaker Light Kit in a Speaker Light Kit set, but they also make installation easier for my SPIKE 2 light kits if you have aftermarket speakers that have tweeters that extend past the speakers mounting area. As using them is easier than removing the bars from the factory speaker plates.

A power splitter is also needed to power both RGB controllers. I do not have the "Yo Dawg" light kit listed on my website, but I have been selling all you need for $120 shipped in the US. That is a $11.50 saving over buying the light kits and replacement plates separately + the power cable being included and free shipping (in the US). All of the parts are included with both light kits (even parts that will not be needed in this 2 in 1 setup), so if you would choose to remove the inner light kit from your SPIKE 2 game...you could always install it in any Stern game that has the older speaker panel with the round speaker holes. If you already have one of my Speaker Light Kits that was made for a Stern game with the round speaker holes....you can use that along with the SPIKE 2 light kit and the replacement speaker plates and the needed power cable for $82.50 shipped (in the US).

If anyone is interested please contact me through the e-mail link on my website.

Thanks,

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

IMG_3691 (resized).JPG

My best game ever the other night, finally cracked into the billion club. On a side note, anyone heard any rumours about an update to the code? Seems a lot of Stern pins are receiving late year code love at the moment.

DSC03950 (resized).JPG

Fair amount of bugs that still need attention on the 1.05 buglist, so I'd be surprised if there wasn't another update pretty soon.

If you offered variable post locations (maybe two sets of holes and the user picks which set to install the threaded posts in?) for your replacement speaker plates that would allow either the stock speakers or the larger speakers like on the LE, that would make it more attractive. I know I spent about $90 getting all the LE parts to install larger speakers. Stern=highway robbery.

Also, have you thought about angling the frame inward about 30 degrees so the LEDs are pointing more inward toward the speaker? That should reduce glare on the glass and if you put a 1/4=1/2" bezel on it, even reduce the LEDs peeking out from side angles.

so i've got my iron maiden pretty much tweaked now with one remaining issue. The auto plunge hasn't been making the loop. I've found some posts in this thread (but probably not all) and based on that i tried bending the forks on the auto-plunger in a bit, shifting the whole mech a little on the playfield and messing with the power. I've gone from 0% loops to about 60-70% on the autoplunge. My question is - is there any trick to getting it working better? or is just bend the forks a bit and then test, adjust the power a bit and then test until you get lucky?
Thanks!

The shim method seems to get it working to almost 100%.

It's detailed here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-maiden-issues/page/30#post-4726439

Yep, I have not used the wedge yet, but managed 90% conversion, (make the loop on auto)
IMDN is one of the most kick ass pins ever. I am so stoked with what the team has come up with , and kudos to Keith for using his Archer layout for this.

Awesome Man ! Thank you, I am super excited for your next gem Keith

So yeah I understand the mech team are fresh and breaking new ground and I sincerely appreciate all your efforts,
If I could ask that your design be specified to the component provider to be 100% accurate please.

The crap that comes from the China joints can be undesirable. The PF insert base ass'y for newton ball should have been rejected.

Make sure they make that shit to spec please

The concept is there however, I dislike the newton design and the problem is exaggerated from poor manufacturing processes.

20181220_194337 (resized).jpg

20181220_194355 (resized).jpg

What? Flintstones-level-round isn't good enough?

I concur. The shim method made mine 100 percent. Make sure the teeth of the autoplunger makes contact with the ball on both at the end of the stroke

I get it now, so yeah if you could dim the red outer lights it look good I think. Your picture looks nice.

Probably all too much work for me though on my LE to bother with...

Mostly minor stuff right? I hope the lag is eventually fixed.

Rob

Hey V, I’m a little lazy at work right now but is this bug on the list:

-IMDN PRO: if you have 2 balls locked and pharaoh tomb award is lit and you shoot the right orbit to both collect the tomb award and start multiball, the game freaks out for a bit and doesn’t know what to do. Eventually it releases the call and throws the other 2 into play.

More like; Ed force DONE! <— very clever due to the name of their jet

"No Class Human" is one of the tilt callouts.

I was wondering if Stern would even sell the speaker plates for the larger speakers that some LE games have. If they did, I didn't expect they would be too much. I got the standard speaker plates from them for $13ish each. Of course, as I said, I'm a bit surprised they even sell the LE plates separately. I'm sure they keep a tighter stock on them and that may cause them to charge a more premium price for them.

I see what you are saying about my Replacement Speaker Plates, but I don't see how that would be possible. So you have the plate and 8 speaker mounting holes in it. 4 inner holes so you could add the mounting posts for the 4" speakers and 4 outer holes so you could add the mounting posts for the 5" speaker.

So how big is the actual speaker hole in the plate? If you make it the size for the 5" speaker.....that hole for the speaker would cut out the 4 inner mounting holes....so that takes mounting the 4" speakers off the table unless you added mounting tabs jutting inward in the speaker hole to mount the smaller 4" speaker and even then...the smaller speaker would have a gap floating around it from the bigger speaker hole. If you had a speaker hole in it made for 4" speakers, that would work ok as far as just getting either size mounted, but do you think many people would want to pay to upgrade to a 5" speaker that sits behind a speaker hole made for a 4" speaker?

In any case....making plates to add bigger speakers to ones game is not my business. I did not have these made just to have something else to sell or to make money on them. I simply designed my SPIKE 2 Replacement Speaker Plates so it would make installing my SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits easier for people that have upgraded speakers. Using the factory speaker plates with my light kits can still be done with upgraded speakers, but a person would probably have to cut the bars in the speaker holes out of the factory speaker plates to get things to all work together. I decided to make my SPIKE 2 Replacement Speaker Plates for the folks that didn't want to go to the trouble of cutting those bars out. While I was doing it I decided to also improve some things. I made each plate have 4 speaker mounting points instead of 2 like the factory speaker plates have. I also moved the speaker hole so it was centered in the honeycomb grill area. Again, I didn't make these to have another product to sell. I had them made to make my existing product (Speaker Light Kits) a more attractive, easy to install and versatile product.

As for my SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kit design...I can tell you very little was not considered or tried. As for angling the frame walls....a user can spring the frame walls out as much as they want or have room for. Though I don't think that would help with anything and would probably make the top of the lit area look strange, as it could be bent to be almost parallel with the back of the speaker panel. It would also probably throw a lot of the speaker light on the bottom of the translite from the back side. As far as angling the light frame walls out....there is very little room to do that on the bottom or outer sides You have all the room in the world to do that at the top and there is no way to do that at all on the inner wall (as it is what hold the LCD in place). My main concerns on the design were trying to make each side look as uniform as possible (same distance from the honeycomb edge), getting the light frame walls as far in from the honeycomb area as possible and to allow as much surface area on the mounting side of the frame as possible, without being visible in the honeycomb grill area.

My main concern was the visibility of the inner light strip. This inner wall of the frame is RIGHT AGAINST the LCD screen and what holds the LCD in place. So there is literally no place to go with this one. There is no way to get that inner frame farther inward away from the honeycomb grill edge. My first idea was actually to make a set of brackets just to hold the LCD screen in and then add a light frame over that...I then realized that would just make that inner wall jut out in the honeycomb area even more and the best way to keep that inner wall in, as much as possible, was to make that be what holds the LCD screen in place. Having said that...other things can be done if the inner wall is to visible to some users. I make sure to put the light strip in the light frames so there is a cut area on the light strip in the bottom inner corner. That means a user can actually snip the light strip there to deactivate the inner light strip wall. I tried some tests like this and I honestly didn't like only 3 sides being lit, but I did keep the light strip placement like that so a person could snip and remove that inner light strip if they would choose to. You can also put a strip of electrical tape over the inner light strip or even over the inner most honeycomb column (on the inside of outside of the panel).

The reason I wanted more surface area on the bottom, mounting side of the frame is mainly so there is more surface area to hold the foam in place if a user decides to keep the speaker foam in there. I also knew the frame had to be reasonably stable as it is what holds the LCD screen in place. Making the frame super narrow would make it a bit too flimsy. I also realized in early testing that if the frame went into the honeycomb area...it would darken up the honeycomb and not look right, as I expect a bezel might do. SEE ATTACHMENT on the right side

So I made the plate as big as possible on it's mounting side, without being viable in the honeycombs area (no matter how it is slid on it's mounting slots) and I also made the walls that hold the light strips as far away from the honeycomb area as they could be, while trying to keep the bottom, top and outer walls a uniform distance from the honeycomb area. From a players perspective, seeing the bare led bulbs isn't an issue. If you decide to leave the factory foam in that usually defuses the light quite a bit and the light kits can be dimmed with the included remote. A bent plastic glare guard can also do wonders.

SPIKE2 left test (resized).JPG

Added (assuming 1.05 version)!

Thank you Vireland with Pin Monk. Just installed fireball loop lens' and its rad. Install was fairly easy, took about 15 minutes.

20181221_170458 (resized).jpg

Thanks for the support. It's my favorite mod on the machine because of how cool it looks when the loop lights start animating with the color progression. Makes me want to charge up the loop more often just to see it.

In the club!

76DAC346-EB0F-4ADD-90A0-78F667B9323A (resized).jpeg

958C80E7-A1BE-459B-86BD-53735A8DFB26 (resized).jpeg

Bah, I was hoping mine would arrive today so I could have all my mods installed for xmas visitors. No luck. Looks great.

Made a cannon for my game. Interactive with the lightning bolt flasher.

00100dPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20181222102710685_COVER (resized).jpg

Imo i think it blocks the spinner // relocation is needed plus change the blue light to red

I actually like the location, from the players perspective, there’s no blocking. Pic was taken down closer to the pf. I thought the blue color would be a bit of a change. I’m pretty happy with the look and contrast, to each his own. It’s easily moved and color can be changed, appreciate the feedback.

I don't know if the canon barrel is hollow, but it might look cooler to fish the LED into the back so the barrel lights up instead.