oh! I knew there had to be more to it. I did not know about the level 2 cards and the other tombs... This is certainly a game changer!!!
phew!
knowing this, now I realize I might be only 25% into the game code.

Love the shots, I dont think I played a game with such fun shots... I am really curious about JP, only played a little bit and looks really fun too and before anybody says it, had AIQ for a few months but absolutely hated it.

Here is some light reading for you...
http://tiltforums.com/t/iron-maiden-pinball-rulesheet/3787

JP is fantastic. Deeper strategy with more paths than IMDN, but I would say more straight forward than AIQ. The paddocks can feel a tiny bit "wood choppy" but each dinosaur acts differently and there are some interesting decisions in what path to take. And the T-Rex modes are amazing...some of the most adrenaline pumping modes in pinball in my opinion. Plus control room modes, and tons of other "side goals", and really fun mini-wizard modes culminating in a wizard mode that is basically an entirely new game (and can be played as a challenge mode from the start). Lots to do for the beginner, but as deep as you want to take it. Amazing game all around.

I'm a bit of a comic nerd and my son loves dinosaurs so you'd think AIQ and JP would be hits in our house. AIQ lasted 6mo. JP lasted 1mo.
Having owned Maiden, JP and AIQ, Maiden is hands down the best of the three (or of all time). It gets a bad rap by the people who can't get past the theme. Luckily, I already liked Iron Maiden as a band as well. If Godzilla pro hadn't seen the price jump it did I'd be after one of those though. It seems a little more like Maiden in term of the small amount of code and shooting I've seen.

Edit: we have had our Maiden for almost 3yrs now (late Dec.2018). It has 7,000 games on it now and is never leaving.

I'd agree with you. I've always been somewhat baffled that AQ and JP rank higher than Maiden, for me, Maiden is a superior game to both. I also looked at Godzilla and thought it evoked a refined Maiden super curious if that holds true on a play.

Yeah, for sure, I’ll try reducing the time. I rarely have a high scoring game with extra balls though. Yesterday I got to cyborg not once, but twice, on separate games on Ball 1. Lol
I then was holly shit, what I am doing? How did that happen?
Love the game

How's it holding up? Any issues to report?

+1

I currently have all three. AIQ has more options (with gem placement, etc), but of the three I think its the "easiest" to complete (easy being relative, and includes getting trophy mania)
JP is tough to complete. Ive gotten very, very close, several times, to When Dinosaurs Ruled the Earth, but not yet.
I think IMDN is the hardest to complete (RTTH)

I have JP and IMDN. Gradually progressing in JP but it can be more tiring journey (for me) than the immediate replay-ability of IMDN.
Both are not easy - and excellent for that reason.

Who’s lurking and close to Vegas ?

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5k for a Mdn pro is with low plays is the best deal I’ve seen in awile .If I was close I’d be on my way now even though I have a Prem .

Loved he clarified two for$12k lol

Lmao ,still if that’s real can’t beat that with the new prices 2.5 months away .

Iron Maiden is definitely a long playing multiball intensive game! I find I can only walk up to it and play a couple really good games before I'm ready to move to another pin. My Hobbit is like that too. I recently bought a Bram Stoker's Dracula and find it to be a game that makes me want to keep playing over and over, because you can set up the multiball stacks really quick and then go for the gigantic scoring. This is exhilarating! If you hit the shots right, you can have an awesome game experience in a few minutes! The multi player games have fast cycles so it's great for that. Yet, this is a difficult players game. Iron Maiden is a game I would not want to play more than two players if they are good players because you'd be waiting too long! Maiden is an awesome game, but I only want one game like this in my collection. So in short, difficulty for me lies in the stamina required to to get to a huge score.

Funny you say that this is the only game I know inside and out .My kids won’t play with me anymore I have to go solo on it

Yup, you out endurance them plus they get bored waiting!

That’s the only thing at this age I can put endurance them at .By a country mile lmao .

Replaced coil stops last year and the orbit protector is starting to curl just a bit. Rock solid game.

What do you guys think about the staircase decal mod for the ramps? I like how it looks aesthetically but something about seeing a ball roll up a flight of stairs bothers me ...
Also wondering about the other mods I've seen, the airplane and the archway specifically. Do you think they get in the way of seeing any elements of the playfield?

Just my opinion, but I think the stairway decals from Tilt are awesome. No experience with the larger plane from Lermods, but the smaller planes from Modfather are not visually obstructive. The right ramp arch from Mezels is sweet looking and no, there is no visual obstruction with that mod.

No decals. Only metal

I agree with knocker, if they were plastic ramps I would consider the decals. I can’t cover up that metal.

Also, Mezels arch does not block anything.

Mine is a Aug 2021 build and has what appears to be mylar at first glance, but upon closer inspection is a thin piece of stainless steel that is starting to curl and is affecting the ball movement...almost stopping it in its tracks in some cases. Would the Cliffys carbon fiber protector even help in this case or do I just need to try to get that to lay flat?

wonder if any of you know the handle of any of the guys working at Stern on this site? I am sure those guys are on here somewhere and can read the owner's thread. I mean, if I was Stern, I would like to read the new releases threads so they can pick up issues as they are reported.
I am sure this might work better than the actual EMAIL system they currently use.

wondering if we could do that for this game, I think they need to come up with a better solution...the longevity of this piece of "metal" is very limited, the more it gets hit the more it bends and it stretches out, it is the nature of the material and it stretches with every ball hit, it starts to curl on the edges.

Unfortunately, my suggestions is coming in a little too late so now we need to find another alternative besides replacing this piece... wondering what that is and if Stern has any ideas?
Maybe if we @ one of the customer service guys so they can see people are still talking about this, that would be great.

I was thinking of taking a few measurements and seeing if I could cut something by hand or on my desktop cnc. Essentially a hardtop just for that area out of 1 mil acrylic or petg. Right now it's number 17 on my list of things I won't get around to this weekend.

Given that I just picked up this new pro, and noticed this thin stainless steel protector as well, I have not had to deal with it yet. However, I would assume that it is just attached to the underlying playfield with some type of adhesive. If I were to notice that mine was curling, I would probably take mine completely off, clean that area up as well as I could, and if felt compelled to put another protector on, I would probably switch to Cliffy's carbon fiber protector (I would think that as soon as you started bending that stainless protector to try and undo the curling, it would just create warps and dents, and you would probably be ultimately displeased).

I've used Cliffy's carbon fiber playfield post protectors on some of my games, and I would imagine it is just a larger piece of that same material... pretty strong stuff and might even be a little bit thinner than the stainless protector that's on there now.

DIY gel inserts, easy peasy. I did 4 layers of gel for this game after doing 3 on my Deadpool inserts.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/195#post-6315958

color is great you just need to layer to your liking for deep vs. bright. Used clear gorilla tape to secure to playfield, only two screws to remove for this light board.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PY7NBST
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Picture doesn’t really do the colors justice but you get the idea!

Does that carbon fiber just adhere to the playfield with adhesive or is it installed in a different manner?

I still have “ directors cut” settings on. Been a month now and still not really sure what changes that makes to the rule set . Anyone able to figure that out yet?

I replaced the mylar with automotive paint protection film because I had no mylar. Time will tell to see how it holds up.

Rob

I would say as long as it's not trapping the ball, then just play the game. Consider it a wear item like pinball rubbers or balls.

Rob

Just got my Iron Maiden pro and it's awesome. The large orbit shot from the right upper flipper is one of the most exciting shots ever. I've still only nailed it twice in a row but my heart rate jumps when I hit it, it's so much fun. unfortunately this machine doesn't have the orbit protector where the ramp shop is, but it looks OK.

I'm reading through this thread and have a few questions.

1. Stage flipping. How does this work mechanically? Both flippers are attached to a single leaf switch right? So how does letting off slightly make one flipper drop but not both?
2. The bullseye on the ramp shot looks off center. Is there an adjustment for this or an issue it might indicate? It seems to register fine, it just looks like it might be loose or something.
3. The rubber sleeve for the ball lock on the orbit sticks slightly above the top of the pin that pops up. It seems to work OK but not sure if this is standard or needs to be adjusted.
4. The orb target gets knocked to the side easily so it's leaning. Is there any easy fix for this or do I need one of those kits from stern that keeps it straight?
5. I noticed a few bulbs look really dim or burned out during attract mode but in the game they seem to work OK. Anything I should be worried about or is this normal?

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Remove the sleeve, clean up the rod, re-install the sleeve with a tiny bit of rubber cement on the rod. That should keep it in place so it doesn't creep up again.

It's not a single leaf switch. Partial button press will activate the first stage of the leaf, full push activates both stages. Try holding down the button part way, and you'll notice only the lower flipper activate. Full press = both flipper activated.

This is especially helpful in multiball if you are cradeling one ball, and shooting the other. You can open up the lanes up top by stage flipping.

Two reed switches on top of each other for each button. You may need to adjust them to get the right feel. I had to adjust my left switches to make them actually be staged. from the factory they would only activate at the same time.

Huh, thanks. I didn't even know two stage leaf switches were a thing. Now I've got another new skill to master hah, this game is pretty tough!

I've been having an intermittent issue with the Guardian diverter motor on my recent build Premium. Sometimes the motor will engage but not raise the diverter. I've removed all of the front facing pieces and removed the assembly from the backboard to ensure nothing is binding and it is properly lubricated. When running the diverter test you can hear the motor try to engage but it doesn't seem to rotate and raise the diverter. Manually pushing up while the motor is running doesn't seem to help at all. Here is a short video showing the test sequence:

Any thoughts on what might be wrong? I've opened a support ticket but haven't heard anything back from Stern yet.

Did you check the set screw on the output shaft?

Rob

Did you check to make sure that the mech is triggering the appropriate switches back there to signify when it is fully up and/or fully down?
I know when I had my premium, I had to adjust the upper switch, but fortunately only once. At that time, it made a similar sound, basically was running its motor and was at its final position, but because the switch was not activated, the motor kept running.
Might just be that simple as adjusting a microswitch back there.

Doh! Should have checked that but you were exactly right. It is the set screw. Thanks so much @rob_G!

So I tightened it down REALLY tight and played it for a game but by the start of the second game, it stopped working again because the set screw loosened. My first inclination is to try some loctite, but figured I’d check first if this is a common problem? Is the shaft completely round or is there a flat side or indentation that the set screw is supposed to sit inside? Seems odd that I could tighten it so hard and it would loosen so quickly.

This was my first thought, but apparently not. The lower switch was activated and the motor test is supposed to make it run until it hits the other switch. Triggering the switches manually worked just fine but didn’t make it start moving. Definitely related to the set screw but it just won’t stay tightened.

I decided to do a very rudimentary check of the lights I'm having issues with and noticed that if I poke or wiggle the dim lights they turn on fully.

I found an old post in this thread with a similar issue, that the lamps were not being seated in the housing correctly and that crimping the connector can help but might loosen up again over time.

Is there a permanent fix at this point? I've ordered new lamps for the ones that are dim just in case that's the fix, but in the meantime it sounds like the housings are cheap. Can those be changed?

I also noticed my balls looked chipped and when I took them out it was actually just black rubber or debris being collected on the ball. I cleaned them off and within a game I saw it again. Is this an indication of worn rubbers or do I just need to clean the playfield better?

Blue loctite will work fine. There is probably a flat spot on the output shaft you will need to align with the set screw.

Rob

Is this a new game?
Send a video of the connector issue/light.

This is a used unit I just bought. HUO but has a manufacture date of Sept 2018 so it must be one of the original machines.

I just turned it on and the lights that are normally dim actually looked better, but as you can see from this video they still react when I poke at them.

https://gfycat.com/affectionatelegitimateeastsiberianlaika

It should not do that. That is either a bad socket and/or a bad led. Very easy to diagnose, pull a LED from somewhere else and try it and see if it does the same, if it does, replace the socket. $1 repair.

Awesome, thank you! Do you know if I should I get another replacement Stern socket or is there a better designed one that is compatible?

Any pinball retailer will have a good alternative, no need to get a Stern socket as there is no such thing, they are made in China, arguably, a pinball parts retailer might have a better replacement/better quality.

Just get one with the same shape, there are different ones, for different purposes and for different heights, Williams sockets are not the same one used in Stern, for example and the LED will protrude more or less if you mix/match.

If it turns out to be the socket, I would use the opportunity to replace ALL the socket on that area.

It's most likely not the socket. The cheap LED bulbs don't hold up well over time. The solder joints on the components get flakey from heatup/cooldown cycles. Try new bulbs first.

Replacing coil stops only because i'm having issues with a sticky flipper. Clean coil sleeves or is that a waste of time? heard yes and no