(Topic ID: 213089)

Up the Irons - Stern Iron Maiden Owners and True Fans Club!

By AlexSMendes

3 years ago


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  • 714 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by mollyspub
  • Topic is favorited by 340 Pinsiders

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There are 9037 posts in this topic. You are on page 180 of 181.
#8951 12 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

I just purchased the blue one along with the dark blue magnetic speaker grill. Hopefully will be delivered this week.

Awesome! Please post some pics if you could be so kind!

#8952 12 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Anyone have either one of these alternate translites with the pro? If so, which one matches better?
https://picclick.com/Iron-Maiden-Pinball-Alternate-Translite-2-0ptions-to-223202689802.html

I got the one with more blue because I wanted to change out the T molding .It’s on a prem but I can’t see it mattering .

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#8953 12 days ago

That blue trim looks really nice!
I just now payed the deposit on a pro!

#8954 12 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

That blue trim looks really nice!
I just now payed the deposit on a pro!

Thanks ,I’m trying to decide on powder coat or air brush for armor .I’m pretty confident this will be around a long ass time it’s all our favorite pin .

#8955 12 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:That blue trim looks really nice!
I just now payed the deposit on a pro!

congrats you won’t regret it

#8956 12 days ago

LOL! I'm already buying mods!

#8957 12 days ago

Update per Stern - "Based on your video, it seems that your CPU is faulty and will need to be replaced.

Please contact your distributor and they will be able to assist you with a replacement part.

Part number is as follows: 509-1003-01 / SPIKE 2 CPU"

Sigh - looks like I'll be shelling out money for this board. Pretty shocking when you consider the game has been lightly played/HUO. I purchased this machine from a private party with about 100 plays on it when they decided to upgrade to an LE.

#8958 12 days ago
Quoted from captaindorky:

Update per Stern - "Based on your video, it seems that your CPU is faulty and will need to be replaced.
Please contact your distributor and they will be able to assist you with a replacement part.
Part number is as follows: 509-1003-01 / SPIKE 2 CPU"
Sigh - looks like I'll be shelling out money for this board. Pretty shocking when you consider the game has been lightly played/HUO. I purchased this machine from a private party with about 100 plays on it when they decided to upgrade to an LE.

It might be cheaper if someone on here knows a good place to get the board repaired, I think a new board from Stern isn't cheap. You don't have another machine to swaps boards with do you, to verify the problem?

#8959 12 days ago
Quoted from captaindorky:

Update per Stern - "Based on your video, it seems that your CPU is faulty and will need to be replaced.
Please contact your distributor and they will be able to assist you with a replacement part.
Part number is as follows: 509-1003-01 / SPIKE 2 CPU"
Sigh - looks like I'll be shelling out money for this board. Pretty shocking when you consider the game has been lightly played/HUO. I purchased this machine from a private party with about 100 plays on it when they decided to upgrade to an LE.

Just as a follow up, did you ever check to see if the woofer audio amp chip was hot?

My Munsters has a problem with that chip (getting ready to replace it), another Pinsider had the same problem w/his Munsters, and I mentioned I saw the youtube video with a gent who replaced his woofer audio chip after noticing is was very toasty (pin would boot up, but had audio issues). So I was just curious if yours had the same problem or something different.

Sidebar comment. Wonder why Stern sells the entire 'CPU board' since the actual CPU is on a carrier. Would be nice if you could send it in and let Stern figure out is it's the carrier board, the CPU, or both. I'm sure they have a tester.

#8960 12 days ago
Quoted from captaindorky:

Update per Stern - "Based on your video, it seems that your CPU is faulty and will need to be replaced.
Please contact your distributor and they will be able to assist you with a replacement part.
Part number is as follows: 509-1003-01 / SPIKE 2 CPU"
Sigh - looks like I'll be shelling out money for this board. Pretty shocking when you consider the game has been lightly played/HUO. I purchased this machine from a private party with about 100 plays on it when they decided to upgrade to an LE.

I don't know if Borygard can repair Spike CPU boards in addition to the node boards he does fix,but worth a shot to hit him up. Has to be cheaper than $350 for a new CPU board if he can.

Email Terry at pinball life and see what he charges for the board if you have to buy one. He's often cheaper than other places.

#8961 11 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I don't know if Borygard can repair Spike CPU boards in addition to the

I don't know if Borygard can repair Spike CPU boards in addition to the node boards he does fix,but worth a shot to hit him up. Has to be cheaper than $350 for a new CPU board if he can.
Email Terry at pinball life and see what he charges for the board if you have to buy one. He's often cheaper than other places.

Dam, it looks like that version of the board is $999.00 bucks at Pinball life, that's ridiculous!

#8962 11 days ago
Quoted from Hammerhead1550:

Dam, it looks like that version of the board is $999.00 bucks at Pinball life, that's ridiculous!

Stern lowered the price awhile ago. Not sure what vendor's do about old stock when there's a price reduction.

#8963 11 days ago

I wonder if this has anything to do with supply chain issues given the big crunch on wafer boards etc..? These prices may be inflated now for quite a while if that's the case. I noticed these boards are out of stock on several sites. $1000.00 is fucking insane!

#8964 11 days ago

I just sent the board off for repair today. Thankful that we have folks out there that do this versus having to purchase a new board at what seems to be at crazy high prices.

#8965 11 days ago

Anyone recommend the 'Mezel Mods Pharaoh Plastic Protector' for the back plate? Or is this unnecessary? See link below...

https://mezelmods.com/collections/iron-maiden-legacy/products/iron-maiden-pinball-pharaoh-plastic-protector?variant=12353715241057

#8966 11 days ago

Just joined the club. Man this game plays well!

#8967 11 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Just joined the club. Man this game plays well!

Welcome! What version? I haven't played mine (pro) in quite some time . Too busy playing Indy500!

#8968 11 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Anyone recommend the 'Mezel Mods Pharaoh Plastic Protector' for the back plate? Or is this unnecessary? See link below...
https://mezelmods.com/collections/iron-maiden-legacy/products/iron-maiden-pinball-pharaoh-plastic-protector?variant=12353715241057

I put one one my game day one (2.5yrs now). For the price i figured "why not? Better safe than sorry".
I figured if it ever did crack, that would be better than the Pharoah cracking. Its still perfectly fine. Having said that, i dont know of a single case of a cracked Pharoah in the first place. I think the protector was $10usd though so why not?

#8969 10 days ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

I put one one my game day one (2.5yrs now). For the price i figured "why not? Better safe than sorry".
I figured if it ever did crack, that would be better than the Pharoah cracking. Its still perfectly fine. Having said that, i dont know of a single case of a cracked Pharoah in the first place. I think the protector was $10usd though so why not?

So it looks OK then?

#8970 10 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Just joined the club. Man this game plays well!

One of my favorites of all time. I've had the Pro and then the Premium. They both are actually very good, but they play quite differently. You'll enjoy this one.

#8971 10 days ago
Quoted from captaindorky:

I just sent the board off for repair today. Thankful that we have folks out there that do this versus having to purchase a new board at what seems to be at crazy high prices.

Let us know what he finds out.

#8972 10 days ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Welcome! What version? I haven't played mine (pro) in quite some time . Too busy playing Indy500!

I bought LE #74 w/topper, around 100 plays. Pristine (other than the dimples under the right lighting but I’m not complaining, is what it is). Been playing, love it. It’s a keeper. Multiball play is pretty insane! Up to about 850M, I think I was in a mini-wizard at one point.

#8973 10 days ago

Iron Maiden Pinball - Full Production at Factory (April 2018)

#8974 10 days ago

2 quick questions for the IM LE-

Playfield angle like other Elwins (6.8-7.0) or standard 6.5?

When I get a ball locked in the captive ball (Sarcophagus lock I think), and sometimes when I pound the captive ball (and get too direct of a hit), it knocks it out the back and starts a fake multiball that kills the flippers when the first ball drains. I should not be able to knock the locked ball out the back. Any idea why this is happening or how to stop?

just a note, flippers don't droop on this one like JP and AIQ (I like that better).

#8975 10 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

2 quick questions for the IM LE-
Playfield angle like other Elwins (6.8-7.0) or standard 6.5?
When I get a ball locked in the captive ball (Sarcophagus lock I think), and sometimes when I pound the captive ball (and get too direct of a hit), it knocks it out the back and starts a fake multiball that kills the flippers when the first ball drains. I should not be able to knock the locked ball out the back. Any idea why this is happening or how to stop?
just a note, flippers don't droop on this one like JP and AIQ (I like that better).

I think Elwin said he plays 7 degrees, but plays fine with 6.5 as well.

Go through lock test in menu. So you can check the difference between ball locked only or ball locked and ready for Mummy Multiball. Sounds like a switch is not triggering the right moment or not triggering at all.

#8976 10 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

2 quick questions for the IM LE-
Playfield angle like other Elwins (6.8-7.0) or standard 6.5?
When I get a ball locked in the captive ball (Sarcophagus lock I think), and sometimes when I pound the captive ball (and get too direct of a hit), it knocks it out the back and starts a fake multiball that kills the flippers when the first ball drains. I should not be able to knock the locked ball out the back. Any idea why this is happening or how to stop?
just a note, flippers don't droop on this one like JP and AIQ (I like that better).

It's supposed to do that to start mummy multiball. It sounds like one of the switches in there isn't working right and the machine doesn't know the captive ball is out and the mummy multiball has started (or should have started - does the ball say you're in that mode when the ball pops out?). I'd check the switches in that captive channel area. They are very finiky and notoriously unreliable. Do you have roller switches in there currently, or regular ones?

#8977 10 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

So it looks OK then?

Yes. Its not even noticeable that its there. I forgot about it until your comment

#8978 10 days ago

Yeah I've had that where the locked ball is accidentally knocked by heating the static ball target out and messes up the ball count.

#8979 10 days ago
Quoted from thewool:

Yeah I've had that where the locked ball is accidentally knocked by heating the static ball target out and messes up the ball count.

Mine has started doing this as well. Im assuming some tightening needs to be done around that area.

Edit for clarification: I will have locks ready and hitting the mummy captive ball (pro) will occasionally trigger a ball lock. This really sucks when you are intentionally avoiding starting Trooper then accidentally start it by hitting the captive ball.

#8980 10 days ago
Quoted from thewool:

Yeah I've had that where the locked ball is accidentally knocked by heating the static ball target out and messes up the ball count.

it takes a solid hit on the captive ball. definitely not supposed to come out when it's coming out, so I've been playing around it, hitting the captive ball from the upper left flipper (not enough steam to knock it out, but triggers the switch). I'm going to mess around with it.

Also, forgot to ask, I lost a ball. It ended up being in the little white plastic subway (not really because it's on the backboard) going into the tomb and around to the lock. Plastic seems smooth, so can't figure out what it would have gotten stuck on. finally found it and poked it out and hasn't happened since. Anybody ever get this?

#8981 10 days ago

I know your never really done but, I think it’s done!

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#8982 9 days ago
Quoted from bigduke6:

I know your never really done but, I think it’s done!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks Great! Where did you get that translight?

#8983 9 days ago
Quoted from bigduke6:

I know your never really done but, I think it’s done!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks awsome bud !

#8984 9 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

it takes a solid hit on the captive ball. definitely not supposed to come out when it's coming out, so I've been playing around it, hitting the captive ball from the upper left flipper (not enough steam to knock it out, but triggers the switch). I'm going to mess around with it.
Also, forgot to ask, I lost a ball. It ended up being in the little white plastic subway (not really because it's on the backboard) going into the tomb and around to the lock. Plastic seems smooth, so can't figure out what it would have gotten stuck on. finally found it and poked it out and hasn't happened since. Anybody ever get this?

I had the same issue on my LE. The ball was hanging up on the switch arm in the white plastic subway behind the backboard. You’ll need to remove the tunnel and adjust the switch angle or bend the arm slightly so the ball rolls through smoothly. Easy fix, congrats on the Maiden LE!

#8985 9 days ago
Quoted from darkryder:

I had the same issue on my LE. The ball was hanging up on the switch arm in the white plastic subway behind the backboard. You’ll need to remove the tunnel and adjust the switch angle or bend the arm slightly so the ball rolls through smoothly. Easy fix, congrats on the Maiden LE!

Right on, so there is a switch in there. That makes sense! Thanks!

#8986 8 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

it takes a solid hit on the captive ball. definitely not supposed to come out when it's coming out, so I've been playing around it, hitting the captive ball from the upper left flipper (not enough steam to knock it out, but triggers the switch). I'm going to mess around with it.
Also, forgot to ask, I lost a ball. It ended up being in the little white plastic subway (not really because it's on the backboard) going into the tomb and around to the lock. Plastic seems smooth, so can't figure out what it would have gotten stuck on. finally found it and poked it out and hasn't happened since. Anybody ever get this?

Back to very basics before I dig in to heavily - is there something (a gate or anything) holding the ball in the Sarcophagus lock when it is loaded (with one ball) and in the lock position (waiting for MUMMY hits?) Should it be be able to be knocked out the back with a hard shot to the captive ball (maybe my flippers are too strong?) As a matter of testing, after this happens if I can keep both balls (the original and the "escaped" ball) going, and if I start mummy multiball (while hitting the empty Sarcophagus mech), it launches the second ball from the trough (except now I have 3, while the machine thinks only 2).

In short, what holds the ball in the Sarcophagus lock until it is released with the mummy multiball start?

All switches and functions test fine on the lock.

#8987 8 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Back to very basics before I dig in to heavily - is there something (a gate or anything) holding the ball in the Sarcophagus lock when it is loaded (with one ball) and in the lock position (waiting for MUMMY hits?) Should it be be able to be knocked out the back with a hard shot to the captive ball (maybe my flippers are too strong?) As a matter of testing, after this happens if I can keep both balls (the original and the "escaped" ball) going, and if I start mummy multiball (while hitting the empty Sarcophagus mech), it launches the second ball from the trough (except now I have 3, while the machine thinks only 2).
In short, what holds the ball in the Sarcophagus lock until it is released with the mummy multiball start?
All switches and functions test fine on the lock.

As usually seems to be the case (for me anyway!), I'm answering my own questions, and the pinside forum is self-therapy of talking my way through it. Took the glass off and played around with it. While I think maybe once or twice the mech got confused and was in the release position (up a little), I believe my issue boils down to the captive/newton ball switch. When it gets hit direct and hard, it doesn't trigger. But that same hit knocks the ball out the back when the lock trough is in the upper (release the ball) position. So then the ball is free, but the game doesn't know i've hit the captive/newton ball. Haven't gone there yet, but in the manual, looks as simple as adjusting a leaf switch.

#8988 8 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Back to very basics before I dig in to heavily - is there something (a gate or anything) holding the ball in the Sarcophagus lock when it is loaded (with one ball) and in the lock position (waiting for MUMMY hits?) Should it be be able to be knocked out the back with a hard shot to the captive ball (maybe my flippers are too strong?)

That's the way it's supposed to work. You knock it out, and Mummy Multiball starts.

You have a switch problem so the game doesn't know there's two balls out. It may not be a "switch doesn't work" but a "switch doesn't register when the ball rolls over it" situation. It's 100% a switch issue.

#8989 8 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

As usually seems to be the case (for me anyway!), I'm answering my own questions, and the pinside forum is self-therapy of talking my way through it. Took the glass off and played around with it. While I think maybe once or twice the mech got confused and was in the release position (up a little), I believe my issue boils down to the captive/newton ball switch. When it gets hit direct and hard, it doesn't trigger. But that same hit knocks the ball out the back when the lock trough is in the upper (release the ball) position. So then the ball is free, but the game doesn't know i've hit the captive/newton ball. Haven't gone there yet, but in the manual, looks as simple as adjusting a leaf switch.

Yes, you adjust it like a pop bumper leaf switch, which is essentially what it is.

#8990 7 days ago

I've had my Maiden for 3 years, I bought it NIB. Occasionally the left ramp (and probably other) LED was dim. I really should have addressed it right away when it was under warranty, but it was intermittent and I didn't think much of it. Now that LED is completely out along with about half of the game. Basically all of the middle LEDs, power triangles, multipliers, Eddies. They still work intermittently, but it's more not working than working at this point.

I tried reseating just about everything I could easily reach under the playfield. With it being intermittent I figure it has to be a connection. I reseated everything in the backbox. I tried wiggling things around, unfortunately my helper was an uninterested 14 year old. It's tough to tell if the occasional wiring harness wiggle or whack to the playfield was the cause of them temporarily lighting, or a coincidence. Any thoughts?

#8991 7 days ago
Quoted from Shredso:

I've had my Maiden for 3 years, I bought it NIB. Occasionally the left ramp (and probably other) LED was dim. I really should have addressed it right away when it was under warranty, but it was intermittent and I didn't think much of it. Now that LED is completely out along with about half of the game. Basically all of the middle LEDs, power triangles, multipliers, Eddies. They still work intermittently, but it's more not working than working at this point.
I tried reseating just about everything I could easily reach under the playfield. With it being intermittent I figure it has to be a connection. I reseated everything in the backbox. I tried wiggling things around, unfortunately my helper was an uninterested 14 year old. It's tough to tell if the occasional wiring harness wiggle or whack to the playfield was the cause of them temporarily lighting, or a coincidence. Any thoughts?

So node board 8 extension boards c and e. I'd check connections first. Once you've done that, you can swap Node 8 and 9 (and set the dip switches on each board so it knows its new role) and see if your lights return. If not, then likely 2 bad multi-led boards or a bad wire or connector.

#8992 7 days ago

Ugh another 800 plus game without the beast .This time had aces high/2M2M left .Maybe tomorrow is my day .

#8993 7 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

So node board 8 extension boards c and e. I'd check connections first. Once you've done that, you can swap Node 8 and 9 (and set the dip switches on each board so it knows its new role) and see if your lights return. If not, then likely 2 bad multi-led boards or a bad wire or connector.

Thanks for the detailed response. It looks like 8C, 8D, and 8E are all dead. Connectors all look good. It would be too much of a coincidence for 3 connectors to go bad, I'll try swapping the boards tomorrow.

Stern has the board listed for $99, not too bad, but OOS. The only one I could find in stock was Cointaker at nearly double that price.

#8994 7 days ago
Quoted from Shredso:

Thanks for the detailed response. It looks like 8C, 8D, and 8E are all dead. Connectors all look good. It would be too much of a coincidence for 3 connectors to go bad, I'll try swapping the boards tomorrow.
Stern has the board listed for $99, not too bad, but OOS. The only one I could find in stock was Cointaker at nearly double that price.

If it turns out to be the node 8/9 board, Borygard fixes them. You might want to hit him up.

Definitely post the final cause once you track it down.

#8995 7 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Anyone recommend the 'Mezel Mods Pharaoh Plastic Protector' for the back plate? Or is this unnecessary? See link below...
https://mezelmods.com/collections/iron-maiden-legacy/products/iron-maiden-pinball-pharaoh-plastic-protector?variant=12353715241057

I have an extra one of you have not ordered yet.

#8996 7 days ago

Yet to play a better game than Maiden
Are Stern producing only pro models OR are more premiums being made?
Having owned both, the premium is definitely the way to go!

#8997 7 days ago
Quoted from Hawks:

Yet to play a better game than Maiden
Are Stern producing only pro models OR are more premiums being made?
Having owned both, the premium is definitely the way to go!

I believe prems also .

#8998 7 days ago
Quoted from Hawks:

Yet to play a better game than Maiden
Are Stern producing only pro models OR are more premiums being made?
Having owned both, the premium is definitely the way to go!

Their making premiums, I have one on order for the next run (July, but heard pushed back till August).

#8999 7 days ago
Quoted from Hawks:

Yet to play a better game than Maiden
Are Stern producing only pro models OR are more premiums being made?
Having owned both, the premium is definitely the way to go!

Contact AMD in Sydney and ask if they will be getting more in Oz, their website just shows Sold Out which seems a little odd, usually if they have more coming there will be an expected date of arrival attached.

#9000 7 days ago

Excellent will do, thx!

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