(Topic ID: 213089)

Up the Irons - Stern Iron Maiden Owners and True Fans Club!

By AlexSMendes

6 years ago


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17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 15,651 posts in this topic. You are on page 166 of 314.
#8251 3 years ago
Quoted from Fubar:

I love this machine but the loop shot is really tough for me...
So I did this: https://vimeo.com/501553060

Man that is very cool !

I find that repeat loop shot to be one the toughest in the game.
Your up right flipper looks and sounds to be snappy, mine is just a slug. I have to pull my finger out and check coils stops, I know that gap is ok.

I won't ask why

But how did you do that ?

#8252 3 years ago
Quoted from RA77:

Man that is very cool !
I won't ask why
But how did you do that ?

Thanks! Basically I replace the game executable with a program I wrote. Why? It's my first spike machine and this was a fun excuse to understand how the spike2 system works

#8253 3 years ago

What did you change? The ball speed looks much slower so you changed the power of the right upper flipper?

#8254 3 years ago
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

What did you change? The ball speed looks much slower so you changed the power of the right upper flipper?

Yes the power is reduced to 85% to keep the ball around 1m/s. At full power the ball eventually won't trigger the opto at the apex of the loop (I guess it flies over), and thus the speed can't be measured accurately enough. I think with more pitch on the machine this might not be an issue - mine is at 6.5°.

#8255 3 years ago

Thanks to those who responded to my “controlled game” issue . My machines are unplugged until I get that side of basement finished (was mostly done I’m staining sgit I built )where I can put everything back .Kicking it in high gear now as i really miss playing a few games at night .I’ll be ready to roll when back in action .

#8256 3 years ago

Finally shot the Ace down. 10 kills total and 3x soul shard. What a rush!

#8257 3 years ago

Realised the reason why my spinner shot is not as smooth as before.

The post is definitely staying up at times when it shouldn't.

Most often during HBTN.

This is since new code update, for those who have noticed similar issues.

#8258 3 years ago

Can someone link me to fixes for the thud that the top right flipper makes. Mine is becoming loud again and can't remember if the fix I did was the best. Cheers

#8259 3 years ago
Quoted from jardine:

Can someone link me to fixes for the thud that the top right flipper makes. Mine is becoming loud again and can't remember if the fix I did was the best. Cheers

It's an echo off the back of the flipper bracket to the cabinet. Try the adhesive audio deadening matting, cut to fit, on the backside of the flipper bracket.

#8260 3 years ago

This stuff? I’m having the same issue and it drives me nuts.

Quoted from PinMonk:

It's an echo off the back of the flipper bracket to the cabinet. Try the adhesive audio deadening matting, cut to fit, on the backside of the flipper bracket.

4F12DF2E-5CA4-4923-A707-4F9C1E67B6ED (resized).png4F12DF2E-5CA4-4923-A707-4F9C1E67B6ED (resized).png
#8261 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's an echo off the back of the flipper bracket to the cabinet. Try the adhesive audio deadening matting, cut to fit, on the backside of the flipper bracket.

Ok, so same fix! Bugger. Thought this maybe had an upgrade...cheers

#8262 3 years ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

This stuff? I’m having the same issue and it drives me nuts.
[quoted image]

No, you want something like the self-adhesive hushmat on the tape packaging picture (or dynamat, or any of a dozen similar products), not just the tape.

Hushmat is expensive and you only need a little, so I'd recommend going to a car audio installer place and asking if they have any scraps left over from their installs.

#8263 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

No, you want something like the hushmat on the tape packaging picture.
Hushmat is expensive and you only need a little, so I'd recommend going to a car audio installer place and asking if they have any scraps left over from their installs.

I've seen this mentioned a few times. Can anyone confirm that it makes a significant difference? That noise really drives me nuts and takes me out of the game, especially at lower volumes late at night. Does anyone have pics of it installed? I found a small quantity of Dynamat on Amazon which I believe is the higher end one. There is also Kilmat for $60 which looks similar, probably enough for 100 machines. I'd consider taking one for the team and shipping out enough to do a game.

#8264 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

Does anyone have pics of it installed?

Post #4493 on page 90.
It made some difference, perhaps 20-25% but if you're looking to totally get rid of the sound then i'm not sure that will be possible. I was going to make a flat panel to attach to the PF underneath, to go in between the outside edge of the PF and the back of the coil stop but never got around to it. The plan was to coat both sides of the panel with the same deadening material but TBH there's bugger all room and i'm not positive the results would be much better.

#8265 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Post #4493 on page 90.
It made some difference, perhaps 20-25% but if you're looking to totally get rid of the sound then i'm not sure that will be possible. I was going to make a flat panel to attach to the PF underneath, to go in between the outside edge of the PF and the back of the coil stop but never got around to it. The plan was to coat both sides of the panel with the sane deadening material but TBH there's bugger all room and i'm not positive the results would be much better.

Thanks. I know I've visited this idea before. That was probably the post that told me not to bother, although I have an idea on how to make it not leave residue on the cabinet. I have some of the adhesive from the 3M pull tab things.

#8266 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

I've seen this mentioned a few times. Can anyone confirm that it makes a significant difference? That noise really drives me nuts and takes me out of the game, especially at lower volumes late at night. Does anyone have pics of it installed? I found a small quantity of Dynamat on Amazon which I believe is the higher end one. There is also Kilmat for $60 which looks similar, probably enough for 100 machines. I'd consider taking one for the team and shipping out enough to do a game.

You need to be at one with the beast at all hours. Crank that shit and the thump will never be heard again!

#8267 3 years ago

So cool for team Maiden to implement .........DJ Mixer..........
Thank you so much !
This pin will be bolted to the floor for all time.
" Beast Life "
Haha

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#8268 3 years ago
Quoted from RA77:

So cool for team Maiden to implement .........DJ Mixer..........
Thank you so much !
This pin will be bolted to the floor for all time.
" Beast Life "
Haha[quoted image][quoted image]

Very cool!

#8269 3 years ago

First game on the 1.0.8 update!

Very cool - noticeable improvements.

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#8270 3 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

First game on the 1.0.8 update!
Very cool - noticeable improvements.[quoted image]

Played my 1st couple games last night on the new code as well. Haven't noticed a WHOLE lot of differences. is there a list somewhere of what was updated, or can someone post a list of the changes? Best updates i noticed so far in a couple games was the lightshow at the end of a ball and the new animations, can't even remember what modes i saw new animations?

#8271 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Coil stop. Very common on Stern because they are using stops they know suck. When they fail, it will rob power. Check that first. Also look for gold "dust" in the areas below the coil in the cabinet. This is a telltale sign.
Pinball Life has the coil stops you want.

Thanks guys, Ill check this today.

#8272 3 years ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

Played my 1st couple games last night on the new code as well. Haven't noticed a WHOLE lot of differences. is there a list somewhere of what was updated, or can someone post a list of the changes? Best updates i noticed so far in a couple games was the lightshow at the end of a ball and the new animations, can't even remember what modes i saw new animations?

Look at the README file on the Stern web site where you downloaded the code. It has a list of all the changes. I think it was also posted a couple of times in this thread.

#8273 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

That noise really drives me nuts

Someone in here said they just thought of it as Eddie trying to get out of the cabinet and now that's all I ever think when I hear it and it makes me smile.

Found it:

Quoted from PinMonk:

I just pretend it's Eddie in the cabinet trying to get out.

#8274 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

Thanks. I know I've visited this idea before. That was probably the post that told me not to bother, although I have an idea on how to make it not leave residue on the cabinet. I have some of the adhesive from the 3M pull tab things.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/up-the-irons-the-iron-maiden-pinball-official-owners-club/page/141#post-5767321

#8275 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Coil stop. Very common on Stern because they are using stops they know suck. When they fail, it will rob power. Check that first. Also look for gold "dust" in the areas below the coil in the cabinet. This is a telltale sign.
Pinball Life has the coil stops you want.

I just replaced the coil stops and the new ones look identical to the original ones on the machine. Is it simply a matter that the new ones are likely to shear apart?

Stern one on right, replacement on left.

** edit** apparently the brass on the stern one is the issue as it tends to fail too soon. Thanks vireland
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#8276 3 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

I just replaced the coil stops and the new ones look identical to the original ones on the machine. Is it simply a matter that the new ones are likely to shear apart?
Stern one on right, replacement on left.
[quoted image][quoted image]

It's not immediately obvious. I think it has to do with the brass on the Stern one being softer and the center post they hold on breaking away from the standup prematurely as a result. I know the pinball life ones don't do that. They're the only ones I recommend for that reason.

#8277 3 years ago
Quoted from ectobar:

Someone in here said they just thought of it as Eddie trying to get out of the cabinet and now that's all I ever think when I hear it and it makes me smile.
Found it:

That bitch vireland has an opinion about everything. It really is tiresome some days.

#8278 3 years ago

Started experiencing a rather frustrating problem on my Iron Maiden premium today, wondering if anyone had any advice.

Has to do with initiating the sarcophagus lock.

Initiate a game. Hit the sarcophagus captive ball to open the tomb. Gate opens in the back, shoot up the left ramp, game registers a "sarcophagus lock" via audio as well as on the screen (as it should), the small plastic gate opens up and the ball falls into the ball lock chamber but the chamber doesn't hold the ball, instead the mech continues to fall downward to dump it all the way to exit out the center ramp scoop and the ball shoots out the center ramp scoop. However, the gate on the left is still open and all of the mummy letters are lit. I shoot it up the left ramp again and through the open gate, the switch back there triggers and the plastic door immediately opens, the ball falls into the captive ball mech and the mech dumps it again all the way into the scoop and the ball shoots out the center ramp scoop. Again and again and again and again. That back diverter gate just stays open and no ball ever gets locked and all mummy letters stay lit, so I can't initiate spelling M U M M Y to ever get to mummy mb, also, even if a mode starts, since the gate stays open, if I shoot up the left ramp the ball has to go through the whole dumping ball into scoop, shoot out scoop, again and again...what the heck! Very frustrating.

Went into test. All of the coils fire, all of the switches register (including the switch on the floor of the back plastic ramp behind the diverter), the diverter goes up and down easily and without issue or binding, the ball lock mechanism goes up and down without issue or binding, there are no problems I can see/find in test mode...ugh...went under the playfield and made sure all connections were seated well. I hope im missing something simple, but I have no idea at this point.

To make matters even more frustrating, in testing this problem multiple times with the glass off, every 5th or 6th trial, for whatever reason, the mech actually did as it should and the ball truly locked and the "M" on the captive ball was ready to be hit and functioned appropriately all the way to "Y" and I was able to go through mummy mb...test again, and the frustrating problem presents again and for all of the following trials until I had to walk away... So it kind of "wants" / has the ability to work appropriately, but it's rare and intermittent now, like something's loose, or not registering reliably, but what?

Any advice?
Thanks!!

#8279 3 years ago
Quoted from RA77:

Got the chance to play a couple of games with 1.08
Awesome Stuff !
Takes the game to another level !
Loving the new animations, light shows, enhanced sound effects and fun new call outs.
Best Christmas present ever !
Thanks to all involved for this most amazing update.
Oh and the new Graphic EQ is pretty cool as well.[quoted image]

Hi-how did you get the EQ? I have a premium.

#8280 3 years ago

Did the new update stop the user from connecting the HDMI out to my Mac for streaming?

#8281 3 years ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

Started experiencing a rather frustrating problem on my Iron Maiden premium today, wondering if anyone had any advice.
Has to do with initiating the sarcophagus lock.
Initiate a game. Hit the sarcophagus captive ball to open the tomb. Gate opens in the back, shoot up the left ramp, game registers a "sarcophagus lock" via audio as well as on the screen (as it should), the small plastic gate opens up and the ball falls into the ball lock chamber but the chamber doesn't hold the ball, instead the mech continues to fall downward to dump it all the way to exit out the center ramp scoop and the ball shoots out the center ramp scoop. However, the gate on the left is still open and all of the mummy letters are lit. I shoot it up the left ramp again and through the open gate, the switch back there triggers and the plastic door immediately opens, the ball falls into the captive ball mech and the mech dumps it again all the way into the scoop and the ball shoots out the center ramp scoop. Again and again and again and again. That back diverter gate just stays open and no ball ever gets locked and all mummy letters stay lit, so I can't initiate spelling M U M M Y to ever get to mummy mb, also, even if a mode starts, since the gate stays open, if I shoot up the left ramp the ball has to go through the whole dumping ball into scoop, shoot out scoop, again and again...what the heck! Very frustrating.
Went into test. All of the coils fire, all of the switches register (including the switch on the floor of the back plastic ramp behind the diverter), the diverter goes up and down easily and without issue or binding, the ball lock mechanism goes up and down without issue or binding, there are no problems I can see/find in test mode...ugh...went under the playfield and made sure all connections were seated well. I hope im missing something simple, but I have no idea at this point.
To make matters even more frustrating, in testing this problem multiple times with the glass off, every 5th or 6th trial, for whatever reason, the mech actually did as it should and the ball truly locked and the "M" on the captive ball was ready to be hit and functioned appropriately all the way to "Y" and I was able to go through mummy mb...test again, and the frustrating problem presents again and for all of the following trials until I had to walk away... So it kind of "wants" / has the ability to work appropriately, but it's rare and intermittent now, like something's loose, or not registering reliably, but what?
Any advice?
Thanks!!

Gotta be a switch issue. The switch(s) in the lock are notorious for being flaky...read back through this thread to adjust.

Sure the switches work in test, but the ball is probably not activating the switch properly when it falls in...

#8282 3 years ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

Gotta be a switch issue. The switch(s) in the lock are notorious for being flaky...read back through this thread to adjust.
Sure the switches work in test, but the ball is probably not activating the switch properly when it falls in...

Thank you for your reply, Tom.
I was speaking with another Pinsider who had a similar problem a years or ago, and for him, he found his issue at the spoon and captive ball post there at the sarcophagus area. I cleaned and adjusted mine but didn't find that to help me. I then fiddled again with every switch from the diverter, to the small switch in the back tunnel, to the switches in that locking mechanism.

I did think that the first switch in that locking mechanism (The first switch that a ball would hit when rolling in from the back tunnel) rode a little "low" and did go ahead make some effort to raise it up/make more proud, to ensure that it was getting triggered by the ball. Maybe it was missing it?? ... but after this fiddling I did get more reliable play for a couple games which was great to see for sure.

If anyone would be willing to take a picture of how proud the switches are in thier sarcophagus locking mechanism, that I could compare against mine, that would be very much appreciated and thank you in advance!

#8283 3 years ago

So to update, I strongly believe I sorted out the issue mentioned above, and yep, seemed to be a switch issue there within that moving lock mechanism,and I do believe I have the issue solved.

So, the issue appeared to be a failure for the first switch in that lock mechanism to activate/click when a ball was passing by. That switch arm sat rather shallow and I believe the ball was bypassing that switch more times than not and when the ball got to the end of the locking mechanism and registered the last switch in that mechanism (the switch by the captive ball), in the absence of registering the first switch, the machine would think that there is just a ball that is randomly in there and needs to be dumped. And that's what was happening.

Of course, typical for messing with those switch arms, the more I messed with it, seemed like the worse it got! Haha. Finally able to get it to where it started and opted to tack a double layer of thin super sticky 3M tape on top of that switch arm, thus making it more proud (leaving the smooth vinyl backing on top so that the top was smooth). With this maneuver, making that switch more proud, any ball passing by was guaranteed to register that switch.

So, after doing the above, started the game with the glass off, hit the captive ball to register the tomb opening, sent a ball up the left ramp, triggered via audio and LCD screen a "sarcophagus lock," gate opened up, ball fell through into the moving lock mechanism, registered the first switch and then the second switch by the captive ball, the shaker shook, the mechanism went down to its mid position, the ball remained locked, and ready for mummy mb. So, seems like that was the deal. Whew.....

Of note, ivestigating this problem, I see that the physical switch mechanism in question is screwed into a metal plate by 2 small hex screws (and even with that locking mechanism all the way down, is hard if not nearly impossible to get to without taking the entire mechanism apart and out), and thus there is no room for any physical adjustment/movement of that switch mechanism. The metal arm associated with that small switch is typical in size but overall rather short and thus there's not much play with adjusting that metal arm. True, I wish I could have just raised that physical switch higher, but as above, that was not a possibility. I also wish I could have been able to successfully bend that switch arm to make it more proud, but has above, the more I messed with bending it, the less reliable it got...However, this "added height" on top of the metal switch arm with the tape seems to have addressed and fixed the issue. Fortunately, this added tape to make that switch arm more proud is out of visual sight (as the smooth vinyl backing is bright ass red, haha), and since it seems to have fixed this issue durably, I'm going to leave it as it is without messing with it further. So issue solved! Whew!! That said, if anyone has any other sage advice for what they did to make switch arms more proud outside of what I opted to do, I am always up for learning new tricks.

#8284 3 years ago

You can replace the switch entirely with a different type. If you read back through the thread, this issue has popped up a bunch. Happy you got it fixed! I don't look forward to fixing mine if it ever happens lol

I believe people were changing it to a roller switch. You can find some talk about it in multiple spots on Pinside

f19e22d71380db6beb8587e8f06190185bff608d (resized).jpgf19e22d71380db6beb8587e8f06190185bff608d (resized).jpg
#8285 3 years ago

That's excellent, Tom! I was also just now contacted by a fellow Pinsider who recommended this fix as well. It does appear as though others have encountered this same problem as well in the past (always good to know I'm not alone in experiencing this issue).

After spending some time underneath the playfield and looking at that switch and how it sits in that mechanism, I would imagine I will have to disconnect the entire mechanism in order to adequately reach that physical switch. For those who have done this, would you agree?
Anyone who has replaced this switch with the roller switch mentioned above, did you have to disassemble the mechanism in order to reach and replace the switch?...and if so, any sage advice when disassembling this mechanism (f that's what is needed)?

Good to know I'm on the right track...don't feel like I'm losing my mind anymore

*roller switches ordered*

#8286 3 years ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

*roller switches ordered*

Hi,

Which ones *exactly*?

I’m planning to do this too as my original switches are bending and the loose locked ball is often about 1-2cm back from the captive ball.

You can get various roller switches,
and then you can mount the rollerblade in 2 different places on the micro switch.

Pics of your change would be incredibly useful.

Regards,
Paul.

#8287 3 years ago

Look here for pics/install of the switches others have tried.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-maiden-issues

#8288 3 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Hi,
Which ones *exactly*?
I’m planning to do this too as my original switches are bending and the loose locked ball is often about 1-2cm back from the captive ball.
You can get various roller switches,
and then you can mount the rollerblade in 2 different places on the micro switch.
Pics of your change would be incredibly useful.
Regards,
Paul.

This is the micro switch with the roller from Marco that I ordered. I went ahead and picked up a couple.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5119-02

When they come in I will probably make the switch (pun intended). With the link that Tom provided to the "Iron Maiden issues," there is a key post of changing that switch, and by the looks of that picture, the lock mechanism does need to be disassembled and temporarily removed from the playfield for the exchange. I will take pictures at the time.

#8289 3 years ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

Look here for pics/install of the switches others have tried.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-maiden-issues

Thanks again, Tom. I did not know this thread was out there. This is a great resource and I thank you very much for posting the link!
.... I tell you, it is so nice having that switch register again, even though right now I have the temporary tape heap fix, haha. Having that switch register makes the game such a pleasure again. This game is just so absolutely awesome.

#8290 3 years ago

You're welcome and it's def one of the best pins of all time imo

#8291 3 years ago

My games are down due to basement work I was finishing up some painting n staining on the 2/3 part that’s done .Been a week or so should be up n running tomaro night and I’m looking forward to playing .When I was golfing a lot my best rounds were after the winter hiatus .Hoping it will be the same for IMDN I’m ready to battle the beast that has eluded me so long .I can feel it !

15
#8292 3 years ago

Back in the club, but no Pro this time!

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#8293 3 years ago

After seeing the LE in person you can understand why the band chose this art package for their LE's.

#8294 3 years ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

So to update, I strongly believe I sorted out the issue mentioned above, and yep, seemed to be a switch issue there within that moving lock mechanism,and I do believe I have the issue solved.
So, the issue appeared to be a failure for the first switch in that lock mechanism to activate/click when a ball was passing by. That switch arm sat rather shallow and I believe the ball was bypassing that switch more times than not and when the ball got to the end of the locking mechanism and registered the last switch in that mechanism (the switch by the captive ball), in the absence of registering the first switch, the machine would think that there is just a ball that is randomly in there and needs to be dumped. And that's what was happening.
Of course, typical for messing with those switch arms, the more I messed with it, seemed like the worse it got! Haha. Finally able to get it to where it started and opted to tack a double layer of thin super sticky 3M tape on top of that switch arm, thus making it more proud (leaving the smooth vinyl backing on top so that the top was smooth). With this maneuver, making that switch more proud, any ball passing by was guaranteed to register that switch.
So, after doing the above, started the game with the glass off, hit the captive ball to register the tomb opening, sent a ball up the left ramp, triggered via audio and LCD screen a "sarcophagus lock," gate opened up, ball fell through into the moving lock mechanism, registered the first switch and then the second switch by the captive ball, the shaker shook, the mechanism went down to its mid position, the ball remained locked, and ready for mummy mb. So, seems like that was the deal. Whew.....
Of note, ivestigating this problem, I see that the physical switch mechanism in question is screwed into a metal plate by 2 small hex screws (and even with that locking mechanism all the way down, is hard if not nearly impossible to get to without taking the entire mechanism apart and out), and thus there is no room for any physical adjustment/movement of that switch mechanism. The metal arm associated with that small switch is typical in size but overall rather short and thus there's not much play with adjusting that metal arm. True, I wish I could have just raised that physical switch higher, but as above, that was not a possibility. I also wish I could have been able to successfully bend that switch arm to make it more proud, but has above, the more I messed with bending it, the less reliable it got...However, this "added height" on top of the metal switch arm with the tape seems to have addressed and fixed the issue. Fortunately, this added tape to make that switch arm more proud is out of visual sight (as the smooth vinyl backing is bright ass red, haha), and since it seems to have fixed this issue durably, I'm going to leave it as it is without messing with it further. So issue solved! Whew!! That said, if anyone has any other sage advice for what they did to make switch arms more proud outside of what I opted to do, I am always up for learning new tricks.

It looks as though this recent issue I encountered was marked as a "key post," so I thought I would add pictures of the problem area and fix I used. I'd like to also thank the Pinsiders that chimed in to help me not lose my mind

This was for the following Prem/LE issue: Hit Mummy captive ball, register "tomb is opening", left ramp gate opens, ball goes in and registers "Sarcophagus Lock," plastic gate opens, ball rolls into Sarcophagus lock mechanism, lock mech just falls all the way down to dump the ball into the scoop and the ball shoots out from the center ramp scoop... again and again and again. No ball gets locked. Extremely frustrating.

Problem is the FIRST switch in the lock mech is NOT being triggered.
Seems this issue has been noticed in the past by several other owners.

Problem: The switch arm in the lock mech rides rather shallow in that mech trough, so the ball rolls by and DOESN'T trigger that first switch. The second switch (by the captive ball) is triggered and thus the game thinks that there is a random ball in the mech to expel, and that's exactly what it does.
Messing with the switch arm itself doesn't seem to help much as the arm is rather short.
Folks in the past have done various things in this instance including changing this switch to a "micro roller switch" with fairly good success, but this does require dismantling the lock mech from the pf in order to get to that switch.
I opted to add some height to the switch arm to make it more proud within the mech trough and that also did the trick (less permanent than switching out to a roller switch, yes i agree). Since doing that, I have played many games without any of the prior aforementioned errors, whew..

I used double sided 3M sticky tape. I made two layers in my case (to get the height I was looking for), and left the smooth vinyl backing on top such that the ball glides over smoothly. The end of the switch arm sits under the center trough hole, so this also added an element of protection from the vinyl backing peeling as time goes on.
I added pics below to show the switch in question, the tape applied, and to show a pf pic to demonstrate that this switch is out of view (as the backing is bright ass red).

1 (resized).jpg1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg5 (resized).jpg5 (resized).jpg
#8295 3 years ago

Very well done. A direct and well thought through method to solving this problem as compared to replacing the switch.

#8296 3 years ago

Installed a Polk PSW10. What's the best low pass setting for this game?

#8297 3 years ago

All of a sudden my auto-plunger is not getting the ball up the orbit ramp. It makes it to the ramp, then comes shooting back down and hits into the rubber by the shooter lane exit and bounces across the playfield to the left outlane lol. Friggin annoying! It is almost as though it has lost a lot of its power. No changes to the machine in a while and I had it on 255 power and it still is. I have the thing dialed in like you wouldn't believe and it had damn near 100% consistency in making the auto-plunge shot. Any thoughts on what to check and/or replace?

-4
#8298 3 years ago

.

#8299 3 years ago
Quoted from ectobar:

You know what else is friggin annoying? Almost everyone on here's refusal to use the search features. I get you're frustrated, but this is covered on almost every page of this thread. I'm sure someone will answer you and the cycle will continue.

Lots of info on the alignment and it not making it. My questions is quite the contrary. Aligned like a dream. I'm thinking maybe coil stop or coil losing power. On a cold start of the game it makes it fine, but as time wears on it seems to get weaker and weaker probably as its temperature rises. Just speculating. Maybe its time for a new coil even..

#8300 3 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

Back in the club, but no Pro this time![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I still have your pro...nice to see you revisit one of sterns best

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