Somewhere in the low $3xxx range here...

I was thinking high 2k range.

Tough call, I had a whitewater with all new plastics, boulders, LEDs, clear coated playfield and sold it for $3425 in October of last year. I'd say $2650 - $3000. Boulders will set you back $120ish, the ramps (make sure because the entire set is $700+) and if the plastics are not broken get protectors behind the the green targets, plastics are another $100. So just fixing those little cracks in the plastic parts will set you back another $1000 without even looking at the GI issue.

I got 4k and 3800 in the past 6 months for that condition with two wh2o

$2500-2800. I love WH20 but it sneaking up to $4k+ is silly.

yes....I just worked through a GI issue on my CFTBL...had a row out on the playfield and the back box...once I corrected the J115 connector, everything was up and running.

Mass envy on getting a WH2O....that is on my list.

Look and see if the connector is brown in anyways. If so, it is certainly a connector issue

I posted one on here for $4,500 New ramps, both playfields, Everything inside cab like new. It took a week to sell.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-restored-wh2o-mi

I thought it was insane that no one was beating down my door for it....Sometimes it just depends on the weather I guess.

Generally, fuses don't just blow without a reason. It can happen, but never believe it's just a fuse.

The GI issue is probably a connector issue. Look at it, if it looks brown / black / cripsy odds are good. But until that connector is fixed, nobody here is going to be able to tell for with any amount of certainty.

It looks like you own 9 pins including WH20 and you know very little to nothing about fixing pinballs. If you are going to buy it to flip it, maybe just pass.

Flipping pins is usually more than just buying it and turning it. I'm sure there are flippers who operate junk in, junk out, but that's no way to be IMO.

What would I pay? 2k I sold a nice unshopped with not much cosmetic issues for 2350 over a year ago.

maybe he's trying to price the one he already owns and wants to be fair with pricing on it?

Take it easy guy... So you're not flipping, congrats. I've never flipped anything. I've bought my share of cheap games, fixed them up, and played them until I was sick of them, but IMO that's not flipping.

I'm not offended at all. From what I read, you have little to no repair skills, and you were looking at buying a game you already own.

What's wrong with your current game? Bad play field? Faded cab? If that's the case, you might be on the right track. Get it at the right price, make one as nice as possible, then try and get most of your money back.

The new game sounds like a mess and not worth it, unless it cheap. Like $1,500 cheap.

By not being upfront about what you were doing, you SOUNDED like a flipper. Trying to trade up, or make a nice game from two IMO was relevant info in terms of what you need, how nice those particular parts are and what you should pay.

For example, if you play field and cab are rough, I wouldn't recommend you pay a fair price for an example that's just a little nicer. Sure, the price is "fair" but that's a lot of work for just a little improvement.

Based on the thread, I didn't get that impression, but I guess he's not a flipper either

I think people who can't wait to brag about what they've paid, or how many games they have are way worse than people like me who prefer not to share. Just my opinion though.

I agree. No way this should be a $4k pin... of course just my opinion. Had one for about 3 months and sold it.

Wow, deep breath. All I said was that you sounded like you had an opportunity to flip a game, I still believe it sounded like that. Judging by how defensive you got, maybe I was right. You seem to be so offended, and I did say IF. Nobody accused you of anything!

My assessment of your pinball repair skills are based on you asking rudimentary questions, nothing more, nothing less.

All I suggested was that based on your limited repair skillset, the machine sounded like a rough headache.

How could you even expect a straight answer if you didn't give us the reason for your post? Why wouldn't you? Just looking for some consistency.

You are talking about buying a roughed up game with issues, it would be nice to be able to fix it so it works, no? Otherwise, you have to factor in repair costs, which could influence what you should pay for a game.

Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every now and again

I think it would be 3k to 4k range. If you can get one, as described, under the 3 mark I would jump on it! Seems to me WH2O is movin on up!

White Water's in general have 3 common wear areas:

Mine Kick Out
Upper VUK Drop
Hazard Ramp Drop

Plus look for cabinet fade, drilled lock bar, re-import, etc. All these things ding the value. Look closely at the games boards. Are they matching serial numbers? Are they clean or smoke covered? Again, these things can add or subtract value.

Also, as with all pinball machines, playfield inserts can give you problems. If the game shows little or no wear at the above points, then the original playfield is in better than average condition, and the game is worth a few hundred more. Otherwise, I think the game is a $2500 to $3300 game as you have described it.

You're just a hot head man. Buy it, don't buy it, if you knew so much you'd be able to figure it out for yourself. I'm out, but try owning up to what you say. I haven't taken a single thing you said out of context, whatever makes you feel better.

It's like you couldn't wait to fly off the handle, because I mearly suggest you MIGHT be looking at a game to flip.

Definition of IF

a : in the event that
b : allowing that
c : on the assumption that
d : on condition that

Good luck.

Starting to see a lot of "Thin Skin" on these Boards...

How a simple price check gets out of control seems to be norm on here. Getting to be pretty bad. Prices are high and non stop bickering. Pinside to me is more for entertainment and less about actual help.

Anyway, Good luck. Wh20 is always in demand and has always been my easiest pin to sell when I want something new.

I just purchased a very nice Wh20 today from a pinsider in N.C. for $4000 and and couldnt be happier. Been looking for a long time for a nice one in that price range. I seen a lot of beaters for $3000 to $3500 missing the toppers beat to heck! Mine has all matching #boards and the original working waterfall foil. Nice cabinet,with very minor fade, no drill holes. Thank you Lord.And Thank you Chris.....

My White Water has $1,400 in replacement parts, which does not include a replacement playfield. (It has a Diamond Coat playfield and so is better than average.) I really like the pin, but WH20 was by far the most expensive of my machines to refurbish. Anyone considering buying one needs to factor in the likely cost of bringing it up to spec.

One thing is for certain."If" Jalpert ever offered a pin for sale there will be an endless supply of comments on condition and price

I recall passing on a $2500 whitewater just a couple years ago because the going rate was $2000. This title and BSD have shot up more percentage-wise than any other title I can think of lately. Pretty amazing.

The Shadow has seen similar inflation.

Here we go....

WH2Os were going cheap until all the replacement ramps became available.

Now interest in the game has gone up greatly, and so has the price.

For this WH20, as much as I like the game I would pay about $1800 with what needs done on it to make it like new again. Call me crazy, but I think this is fair. I remember passing on a super nice WH20 for $1800 3-4 years ago. So this seems about right to me even with the inflation.

Funny..someone picked up a nice WH2O the other day off craigslist near me for $350.00.. in NY too.

I own 14 at most times and don't know $h!T about fixing anything remotely major still. I like playing so much more than fixing, I keep trying to get better but time is not on my side.

image.jpg

I'll take 10 at that price.

Also check the right inlane.

every WH2O is diamond plated. What could you have spent 700 on after the ramps?

Did that really happen? I called about that pretty shortly after the ad went up. Phone number was real...but I questioned the deal....they probably were selling the translite for $350!

Sure. If the topic of this thread had to do with buying a WH20 and having fun fixing it up, I'm sure the responses would have been different.

But, if you came to me and ask if the money is right, and it needed a bunch of work, and you weren't able to fix it yourself, then you would have to factor in the cost of a repair person into the deal.

If this example has the parts needed to make his game nice and it makes him happy, he should pay accordingly. If he's flipping the game or it's only a marginal improvement, he should also pay accordingly.

Hence the distinction.

Nobody attacked you.

I wasn't aware of that. My other Williams pins from the same era (IJ and STTNG) lack the statement about Diamond Plate below the flippers, so I thought that this particular playfield was the exception. Live and learn. Anyway, the playfield itself is in good condition, certainly better than some I've seen.

I'll grant you that this machine is probably something of an outlier. It was a CL pin that I bought out of a garage. Once I got a really close look at it, I realized that, in addition to ramps, it needed all new plastics, legs, and cabinet decals. It also needed a replacement flipper control board, both flipper opto boards, two or three coils, rubber, rebuilt flippers, and various other, lesser parts. I actually spent about $2k since I bought LEDs and a color DMD, but those were enhancements, not replacements. I am also not counting the cost of technical help. (There were things wrong with this machine that were beyond my ability to fix.) None of which is to say that I am sorry I bought the pin. Fortunately, it was sold as a beater at a comparatively low price (at least for 2012), so I ended up with a reasonably good machine at a reasonably good price.

No way that was real. If you looked at the picture closely you could tell it was a framed translite and that it was not in a machine

It is OK to disagree with someone, but this type of personal attack will not be tolerated.

You were never attacked.