(Topic ID: 129473)

United Mfg woodrail backglass removal?

By PinballFever

8 years ago



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    UTAH Backglass Photo.JPG
    20150604_214716.jpg
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    #1 8 years ago

    How do you remove the backglass from the backbox? I've removed backglasses from wedgeheads but not a woodrail like this game.

    BTW, I tried to link my "UTAH" pinball machine but the Game Link isn't working for it.

    #4 8 years ago

    I'm copy pasting my post from the other thread where I asked the same question.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/question-about-protecting-backglass#post-2494311

    It's a 1949 United "UTAH" pinball machine and I found two screws on each side of the backbox but I want to be careful with this backglass. You don't see this game every day, it would be hard to find a replacement. Perhaps the four screws hold the board with the workings in place?

    20150604_214647.jpg20150604_214647.jpg

    Quoted from oldcarz:

    I'm looking at the picture on the Utah on the ipdb and see what I believe is a strip.
    On my Barnacle Bill, there is a similar strip, I think, to the one that may be on your machine. On mine, there is a little wooden shim that is held in place with 2 screws that support the strip. Once the shim is removed in my case, or if it's missing in yours, you should be able to lift the glass straight up. When lifting the glass, it will "pop" the decorative strip of wood off the top of the cabinet. The strip, essentially, just sits there, although it may be stuck a little with paint or grime over the years.

    Here is a photo of the backbox top showing the "strip" with air holes and two screws. Looks like this is where the backglass comes out and the four screws on the sides hold the board with workings?

    20150604_214716.jpg20150604_214716.jpg

    #6 8 years ago
    Quoted from AlexF:

    Yes, I think you got it.

    I feel better but it's still a little scary and daunting to think about getting this backglass out because of the condition it's in. It's almost like new and there are only a few small areas with paint missing in non critical areas. Want to protect and seal it for good with TT.

    Here's a photo of the backglass that this question is related to. I can post closeups of the few areas with delamination if you want.

    UTAH Backglass Photo.JPGUTAH Backglass Photo.JPG

    For some reason the image is "broken" even after trying several times.

    #10 8 years ago
    Quoted from AlexF:

    I can see it. It's in great shape and definitely one of the cooler United glasses.

    Agreed. I love this one and the game is in good condition with original paint.

    Quoted from too-many-pins:

    My suggestion would be to remove head from machine and lay backbox face down on a table to remove the backglass. Put a blanket under the head extending past the head where glass will land after it is pulled out. That way if you happen to drop the glass it will land on the blanket.
    Also removing glass this way gravity is working for you if there happens to be any flaking paint.

    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    I try to never pull the glasses out that way. I remove the whole backbox insert panel (aka the 'board') instead. Lay the backbox face down with the back door removed, and remove any screws attaching the insert panel to the backbox, then lift the whole panel out. Then while the insert panel is out, you can put that on the bench and give it a full rebuild...
    But this approach should allow full access to the backglass to lift out, and not risk rubbing/scraping it on part of the backbox.

    Both suggestions are great! I am thinking about removing it through the back like DirtFlipper suggests but how would you get the backglass out if the backbox is face down? Is there anything to hold on to to lift the backglass out through the back?

    I also have concerns about the insert panel landing on the backglass after removing the screws. Is there something holding and keeping it from doing this inside the backbox?

    This would also give me a chance to replace the bulbs with dimmer ones (#44 for example instead of #47) that don't delaminate the paint unless the Krylon triple thick keeps the backglass from delaminating with brighter bulbs?

    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    Then while the insert panel is out, you can put that on the bench and give it a full rebuild...

    The game was fully gone through "rebuilt" before I bought it for a very fair price and works just like it did in 1949 so I don't think that needs to be done.

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