(Topic ID: 240940)

United Bowling Alley Restoration Attempt: Help Gladly Accepted!


By RonSS

7 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 382 posts
  • 25 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 days ago by Jaymach1
  • Topic is favorited by 24 Pinsiders

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    #130 6 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    I'm pretty puzzled by this. Seems to turn fine by hand. If the grease was solidified I would think even hand cranking would be an issue.
    When I had it apart, I had the feeling the gear and slotted shaft weren't playing well together. Seemed to turn fine without the armature.
    I'm inclined to say the gears are somewhat stripped perhaps. Having a hard time matching up.

    Open it back up and take pics so we can see. Please

    #132 6 months ago

    Watching your video, I can see slippage. Looks to me, the internal gears are worn, or binding. I would drill open that case.

    #143 6 months ago

    Wow, hopefully it will work now. Gears all look nice.

    #145 6 months ago

    Is there a coil/winding there? What is the Ohm value? maybe the coil winding jas a break in it, drawing higj resistance, hence the armature will not spin fast enough.

    #146 6 months ago

    I was looking at your pics and I think your commutator is bad. I believe the bars are all worn together instead of having spaces. This I believe is creating resistance. I would call up Steve at PBR or another Bowler authority and confirm this.

    Edited (resized).png
    #148 6 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Wow! Eagle eyes!
    Well, I think I'll give Steve a call. Heck, I live 30 minutes from him, I could have him inspect it!
    Thanks!

    Glad to help. Without those bars, movement will not happen. I hope Steve can help, or point you in the right direction for a fix.

    #150 6 months ago
    Quoted from cad-kid:

    Take a small flat blade screwdriver & clean out the grooves. Worth a try

    Commutator will work, but may not be enough to spin at proper speed. The bars are usually a set thickness to repel the magnetism

    1 week later
    #158 5 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    I'm playing around by "bowling" only strikes.
    Good news:
    Score reel shows 300
    Frame lights moved properly up to 10 (I think - seems several bulbs out)
    10th frame behaved correctly
    "Shoot Again" light came on
    Only coil locked on is "lock relay" that I can tell
    Needs work:
    The strike indicator lit the first "X", but then skipped to 3 "X"s after second frame
    Burning smell around 8th frame. No smoke though. I "bowled" very quickly to get it shut off.
    No ball motor action. Could be I've got the casket open, but I'd think it would start when I press the leaf to the pin resetter, no?

    Need to set up a camera inside to see if there is smoke from something burning or is it just the game warming up? I had an old EM game that I fixed and I remember the "burning smell" of old coils and diety contacts.

    1 month later
    #202 4 months ago
    Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

    Super lube Ron.. Super lube! Those steppers will be lightning fast.[quoted image]

    Oh man, if that was a bottle of Astro-glide, I was going to spit my coffe out...LOL

    1 week later
    #221 4 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Decided to tear the ball lift motor apart today.
    Well that's interesting; a loose wire!
    Let's crack this nut open. Is that Nutella? Yuck!
    This part won't budge. Time to reach out. What gives?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Are you trying to remove the gears from the motors spindle? May be a press fit gear. Where are the bowling gods at to answer?

    #256 4 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Gotta say, a larger opening would have been nice.

    I always pour it into a bigger tin can.

    1 week later
    #292 3 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Ok, so it was tough to follow the power line back, but I "think" I've got it.
    Black "hot" wire to 115v fuse.
    White "neutral" to the receptacle in the coffin.
    I just twisted the wires on to test. Powered up, no smoke, everything seems to work as before, or better.
    I snipped the original power cord where the PO had spliced with a "new" cord. I wire nutted and taped that. (Yes, that's electrical tape)
    I left all other wires attached as I'm not certain which runs to the switch, and from where. I'm trying to make it better, not create new issues at the moment.
    Bowler gods, Any thoughts on my black/white wire locations before I solder?[quoted image][quoted image]

    The switch will just be"interrupting" the hot(black). Just follow the switch wires back and then you can interrupt them. Not too difficult.

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