(Topic ID: 240940)

United Bowling Alley Restoration Attempt: Help Gladly Accepted!

By RonSS

7 months ago

Topic Stats

  • 382 posts
  • 25 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Jaymach1
  • Topic is favorited by 24 Pinsiders


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    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dasvis.
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    #5 7 months ago

    I'm jealous - wanting a bowler forever. Probably a good thing I have not found one as I have nowhere to put it.

    If you are new to EM's, read this first.. http://www.pinrepair.com/em/
    Tons of important info & repair tips. Go slow & tackle one thing at a time. Don't go ripping it all into a million small parts.
    A SCHEMATIC would be a must if you don't have one. I use a dremel with a wire brush for EM switch contact cleaning, but each have their own methods. Looking forward to this restore blog!

    Check out this guy's website, he might have parts for you https://www.stl-bb.com/

    Oh, & have fun with all of those score reels, you will be able to take one apart & put it back together blindfolded before you are done.

    1 week later
    #42 6 months ago
    Quoted from cad-kid:

    Lesson that I learned - apply heat to that pin by hair dryer, heat gun, or soldering iron. That will loosen the rock hard lube.

    Good advise here!

    2 weeks later
    #48 6 months ago

    Original correct color code cloth covered wire would look a lot better. I have accumulated a ton over the last few years Let me know if you need any.

    #50 6 months ago

    Ok, let me know.
    Hey, why did you sell your Taxi? One of my Grail pins!

    1 week later
    #71 5 months ago

    Always replace power cords!

    1 week later
    #128 5 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    NO IDEA what just happened, but I was taking a few pins off to clean, and decided to plug her in again. The scoring motor started turning! Very slowly, but made it through all the way!
    I'm so confused...

    Hmm, just a guess, but the gearbox grease may be solidified. - Or possibly a drop of tri-flow on the shaft bushings might help. Just a drop, a little goes a long way.

    #134 5 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Sounds like a plan. Any idea if there are any replacement gears available"new"? I couldn't find the motor listed anywhere.

    No, but Steve at PBR can rebuild them.

    #139 5 months ago

    Living my ball bowler dreams vicariously thru you -----

    2 weeks later
    #167 5 months ago

    Well, don't know about the wiring, but you are obviously missing one switch stack screw & at least one of the screws holding the switch bracket is backed way off.

    #173 5 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Yes, the pin reset only works when depress the switch, so that much is good.
    I'll go through those wires this weekend.
    I have a screw for back part of the stack, but it's not long enough. I'm guessing the spacers are all swelled up. I'll probably order some new ones and try to rebuild that switch a little.
    Thank you

    I have a bunch of switch stack machine screws if you know what length & thread pitch it is.

    1 month later
    #230 3 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Decided to tear the ball lift motor apart today.
    Well that's interesting; a loose wire!
    Let's crack this nut open. Is that Nutella? Yuck!
    This part won't budge. Time to reach out. What gives?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Magnalube-G is what the Bingo pin guys recommend for gearbox lube. Does not take much.

    amazon.com link »

    1 week later
    #275 3 months ago

    Marcos offers a wire bending jig that works pretty well. Also has stainless piano wire too...

    #286 3 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    For the record, I am not above dumpster diving.
    Thank you person throwing away a vacuum cleaner![quoted image]

    Damn. I am a proudly a low end pin man & have never gone that far. Excellent!


    #303 3 months ago

    Dammit, you were getting there. Repairing from the dead is 1/2 of the fun. Enjoyed this thread.

    1 week later
    #312 80 days ago
    Quoted from Jaymach1:

    Here's a little tip on the pin hood nose cone. The reason they crack is because they routed ribs in that piece(kind of like an accordion) so the wood would make the bend which in turn made it really weak. Rons buddy used this same technique to make the replacement piece I currently have and it came out great. After I attached the new one, I then filled the ribs with 2 part epoxy. It really strengthens it up and makes it so it wont crack again. If you have one that isn't cracked I'd recommend doing this before it eventually happens. Im sure you could use something besides epoxy but its what I like to use.[quoted image][quoted image]

    Nice. Makes sense

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