(Topic ID: 240940)

United Bowling Alley Restoration Attempt: Help Gladly Accepted!

By RonSS

7 months ago

Topic Stats

  • 373 posts
  • 24 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Mopar
  • Topic is favorited by 24 Pinsiders


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    #2 7 months ago

    Good pics - good idea to ask before doing -

    I will advise - DON'T sand the contacts - use a cleaner - this topic is about opinion and everybody has one. Use a fiberglass eraser (sold in art stores and elsewhere). Or use Brasso but be sure to clean the contacts afterwards with alcohol. Then lube the contacts up with PBR-GREASE (sold by Pinball Resource) - or others like to use Teflon lube. Some like to run without lube also.

    To meet your goals you will be testing and tearing apart all the score reels to clean out the gunk - sprays and extra lube to free a stuck mech is usually temporary. You will need to understand how to inspect, clean and if necessary adjust a leaf switch. Looks like others have been in there and may have messed things up.

    There is a FB group for bowlers and such as well.

    Good luck

    #25 6 months ago

    A good test of the spring tension is not only how well the stepper returns to zero after fully wound but how well it returns after just 1 or two steps up. In the video it's my opinion that stepper is still a bit sluggish.

    1 week later
    #41 6 months ago

    Lesson that I learned - apply heat to that pin by hair dryer, heat gun, or soldering iron. That will loosen the rock hard lube.

    1 month later
    #78 5 months ago

    Score reel switches not showing zero position?

    #84 5 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Ok, just found this. Time to solder, , , , , again.[quoted image]

    Good luck

    #86 5 months ago

    Yep, your right. When in the down pos can the top blade go lower? I'm not sure which blade you need to "reform"

    #88 5 months ago

    Has your score motor run yet? I would think that should be turning to get things reset. Try putting 1 score reel in a position other than zero.

    #90 5 months ago

    Time to break out the schematic & meter

    #97 5 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    I've got a huge tattered schematic. I don't see the bank relay on it though.

    The bank relay is on the schematic but here's the issue - it's all blown apart into it's individual switches. So if I was troubleshooting where power from the "1st shot" relay coil comes from - I would look at the schematic for that coil and see what switch actuates it and look for notations that could lead me to other parts of the schematic.

    To find out what the switches for that relay do is more difficult because on the schematic there would be a switch labeled "1st shot" for every set of contacts on that relay - at least 2 in this example.

    When I look at the score motor for my United (1962 Embassy) - it connects to one leg of the 50V supply (black) - that is protected by a fuse. Then on the other end I see the score motor adjustment jack (cuts power to the score motor for testing), then the power can come from 2 branches with multiple switches on it. Those all lead to the other leg of the 50v supply (yellow).

    That's just a basic start on how to interpret the schematic.

    #103 5 months ago

    I'm not sure what voltage you should have but it seems to low to me. Look at the schematic, for my machine it shows the transformer outputs 6v & 50v ac voltage.

    #119 5 months ago

    Did you verify your transformer is putting out 50v?

    #121 5 months ago

    Post a pic of the transformer showing the connections

    #123 5 months ago

    The top 3 wires are the output (low voltage). On mine they are marked 50,6,C. C is common. Carefully put a lead on C & 50 - you should see about 50v. This is a non regulated supply so it can vary a bit. Stay clear of the bottom terminals as this is where the 110v comes in.

    #149 5 months ago

    Take a small flat blade screwdriver & clean out the grooves. Worth a try

    1 week later
    #154 4 months ago

    Good update!

    #157 4 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Here's the new action.

    Much better!

    #159 4 months ago
    Quoted from eyeamred2u:

    Need to set up a camera inside to see if there is smoke from something burning or is it just the game warming up? I had an old EM game that I fixed and I remember the "burning smell" of old coils and dirty contacts.

    You really gotta listen for the sound of a locked on coil. A burning smell may be too late.

    3 weeks later
    #188 4 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Getting ready to order 3 bowties, WOW! $42 plus $20 shipping? My cart came to $62!!!
    Anybody have 3 they want to sell me? Or 3D print me?

    It's a good product, not a large seller, they may have had to purchase a large amount of these that will take them years to move.

    Finish all your other repairs & buy these last. SLBB only works on these type of machines & I feel it's worth supporting them as they went out of their way to have hard to find products made (like bow ties & different sizes of balls that these machines use).

    #193 4 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    OK, spoke with Chris, all set. Seems for smaller parts the computer may generate some odd numbers for shipping.
    All good. Very helpful.

    Good to hear. Thank you for the update

    1 week later
    #198 3 months ago

    I personally enjoy doing these big projects a little at a time. I'm still in the midst of my score reel cleaning and rebuilding

    1 week later
    #225 3 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Here's the end result:
    I'm assuming my fan is scraping something? Or is that just normal noise?

    Not normal, yep, check the fan. Blades are easily tweaked.

    #236 3 months ago
    Quoted from RonSS:I placed 2 drops of 3-1 oil in each tube.
    I also gave each axle a dab of Super Lube, along with washer internals.
    Once I bent the fan blades a little it was purring quite nicely!
    Here's the final product today:

    Much better

    #258 3 months ago

    Looks slick

    1 week later
    #300 85 days ago

    So did you sell the United or is someone just finishing it for you?

    2 weeks later
    #314 70 days ago

    Lookin' great

    1 month later
    #348 35 days ago

    Congrats on your purchase. In seeing your photo I'm not 100% sure that the lane does separate (I hope it does for easier moving). From the photos that really doesn't look all that bad.

    There is also a FB group for bowlers, shuffles, & skeeball machines.

    #361 34 days ago
    Quoted from Jaymach1:

    I broke down the ball lift motor tonight. I could barely turn the pully by hand. One of the 3 gears is seated in the back half (pully side) of the aluminum case and spins in the hole of the case. It was not spinning very easily. I popped the gear shaft out and polished the shaft and the hole it sits in. Then lightly greased the shafts and filled the case with oil. I assumed there was supposed to be oil in there since it had a fill hole on the side and a gasket between the 2 pieces of the case. Just played 5 games back to back and everything worked great. Just need to finish up some small stuff and do the stencils. I'm pretty psyched though.

    Nice work!

    #369 30 days ago
    Quoted from Jaymach1:

    I decided to get rid of the big switch stack below the lane and replace it with a toggle switch setup. Makes it way easier for servicing the game. Every time I had a problem it was always in the back of my head that it could be that switch stack. No more. First toggle is for the service light, middle is for the pin reset motor, and the 3rd is the ball lift motor. A before and after.[quoted image][quoted image]

    Nice solution

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