(Topic ID: 240940)

United Bowling Alley Restoration Attempt: Help Gladly Accepted!


By RonSS

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 297 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by RonSS
  • Topic is favorited by 21 Pinsiders

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    There are 297 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 6.
    #251 8 days ago

    Never got to it. Our midday plans got rearranged by traffic. I shifted gears, and now I'm just not very motivated.

    Tomorrow is out too. So maybe Monday.

    Bought some plasti-dip though, so I'll be removing that lift belt at some point soon. Yay, more things to do...

    #252 8 days ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Never got to it. Our midday plans got rearranged by traffic. I shifted gears, and now I'm just not very motivated.
    Tomorrow is out too. So maybe Monday.
    Bought some plasti-dip though, so I'll be removing that lift belt at some point soon. Yay, more things to do...

    I hear you life gets in the way all the time. Not sure I will get to mine at all today either. Keep the faith you are way over the hump now and almost have that bad boy 100%..

    #253 7 days ago

    Working on some plasti-dip at the moment.

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    #254 7 days ago

    Gotta say, a larger opening would have been nice.

    #255 7 days ago

    2 coats on 3 units.

    I think I'm high,,,

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    #256 7 days ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Gotta say, a larger opening would have been nice.

    I always pour it into a bigger tin can.

    #257 7 days ago

    That makes sense.

    #258 7 days ago

    Looks slick

    #259 7 days ago

    Well that definitely eill be a major improvement

    #260 6 days ago

    I'll be making a back door today. Am I correct to assume there is no padding on this 1956 model?

    #261 6 days ago

    Your dipped lift arms look fabulous! My 58 United bowler back is not padded.
    Jim

    #262 6 days ago
    Quoted from mojonitro:

    Your dipped lift arms look fabulous! My 58 United bowler back is not padded.
    Jim

    Thanks! On both accounts

    #263 6 days ago

    Nice delivery today.

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    #264 6 days ago

    Ok, so I'm still getting stuck right here. It's within the lift cab, and seems to be the two large wheels on either side.

    It looks as though the belt isn't high enough? How would I adjust that?

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    #265 5 days ago

    Done for the day.

    Positive take away:
    Both back doors cut, routed, sanded, stained on inside and edges.

    Fixed a previous mistake hindering a wire pass through.

    Got some balls!

    Help still needed with ball return.
    Thinking I may need to lower the guide wheels, but I'll take suggestions first.

    #266 5 days ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    How would I adjust that?

    If able, bend the left wheel inward so they're not so far apart.
    I have bent the ball lift arms on the belt closer together so I was able
    to squeeze the wheels closer together..
    And yes you're right. If it was made so the ball went a little higher, it would
    make a difference. That's one of the things I like better about the Ballys..

    #267 5 days ago

    I'll give it a try.

    Thanks.

    #268 5 days ago

    Mopar, genius!

    #269 5 days ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Mopar, genius!

    Hey wait a minute those don't look like brand new shiny balls!

    Great work Ron that's gotta feel damn good.

    #270 5 days ago

    Yeah, I'm debating plasti-dipping the wheel mech. I don't want to make the issue reoccur, but I would also like those balls to stay shiny and nick free.

    I'm thrilled right now though. Here's my short list:

    * Pin deck lighting still dim
    * Cabinet still not closing properly
    * Repair/replace a few rollovers
    * Repair/construct pin hood

    #271 5 days ago

    Hmm, interesting. Your ball return is pretty fast and the balls hit hard at the end. Are they riding on wood the whole way? On mine they come up off the wood channel and ride up on those two rods and slow way down before they hit (saves small fingers, too!) When I got the game somebody had placed big spacers under the screws that hold the rods so it spaced them out and the balls did what yours appear to be doing. I took the spacers out.

    #272 5 days ago
    Quoted from 64bsstp:

    Hmm, interesting. Your ball return is pretty fast and the balls hit hard at the end. Are they riding on wood the whole way? On mine they come up off the wood channel and ride up on those two rods and slow way down before they hit (saves small fingers, too!) When I got the game somebody had placed big spacers under the screws that hold the rods so it spaced them out and the balls did what yours appear to be doing. I took the spacers out.

    I'll check it out. I'm using field hockey balls or something right now in that vid. When I use the new balls I'll see if the result is the same.

    Thanks for the observation!

    #273 4 days ago

    Having some roll over fun today!

    First one (smaller than these) turned out "OK". Hoping the larger ones are easier.

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    #274 4 days ago

    Oh so close! Just needed another inch. Lesson learned.

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    #275 4 days ago

    Marcos offers a wire bending jig that works pretty well. Also has stainless piano wire too...

    #276 4 days ago

    No beauty, but hopefully it'll work.

    Irish Spring, just in case any mice want a shower.

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    #277 4 days ago
    Quoted from dasvis:

    Marcos offers a wire bending jig that works pretty well. Also has stainless piano wire too...

    Why do that when I can pinch my fingers with pliers?

    #278 4 days ago

    End result. I'm ok with the 2 hand made rollovers.

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    #279 4 days ago

    St. Louis Ball Bowlers sells replacement lane triggers.

    #280 4 days ago
    Quoted from Bowlerguy:

    St. Louis Ball Bowlers sells replacement lane triggers.

    Are suggesting mine look like crap?

    #281 4 days ago

    Nope, but yours are not "Spring Steel". When the ball hits those triggers, it will bend them and might make it stick down, this will cause your game to keep running through all 10 frames until the triggers are lifted back up and rebent. Also it looks like from the picture you have several other triggers that are bent to one side that maybe close to sticking, may want to see if you can adjust those or replace.

    #282 3 days ago

    Ahhh, good eye! And info!

    #283 3 days ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Ahhh, good eye! And info!

    Great work today Ron. You gotta crawl before you can walk right?

    #284 3 days ago
    Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

    Great work today Ron. You gotta crawl before you can walk right?

    Thanks man. Doing so many new things (for me anyway) is pretty cool. I don't always get them right, but I'm trying!

    #285 2 days ago

    For the record, I am not above dumpster diving.

    Thank you person throwing away a vacuum cleaner!

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    #286 2 days ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    For the record, I am not above dumpster diving.
    Thank you person throwing away a vacuum cleaner![quoted image]

    Damn. I am a proudly a low end pin man & have never gone that far. Excellent!

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-creed-of-the-low-end-pin-man-/page/5#post-4973917

    #287 1 day ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    For the record, I am not above dumpster diving.
    Thank you person throwing away a vacuum cleaner![quoted image]

    Nothing at all wrong with that Ron. Hell we got a new pool pump the other day so I cut off the cord of the old one to install on my shuffle alley. Sure as hell isn't anything wrong with saving a couple bucks and repurposing something.

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    #288 21 hours ago
    Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

    Nothing at all wrong with that Ron. Hell we got a new pool pump the other day so I cut off the cord of the old one to install on my shuffle alley. Sure as hell isn't anything wrong with saving a couple bucks and repurposing something.[quoted image]

    Hey Ron what did you do with the 3rd wire that is in that new power cord? The old one only has the 2 wires so wasn't clear what to do with it?

    #289 21 hours ago

    Turns out the new one only has 2 prongs. So I lucked out.

    I've read you can take the 3rd prong out, or connect the ground to a "ground" in the cabinet, but as of now this process is above my pay grade.

    Do a search, I've found it before, just can't remember where.

    Maybe someone here can post a link.

    #290 15 hours ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Turns out the new one only has 2 prongs. So I lucked out.
    I've read you can take the 3rd prong out, or connect the ground to a "ground" in the cabinet, but as of now this process is above my pay grade.
    Do a search, I've found it before, just can't remember where.
    Maybe someone here can post a link.

    Attach the ground wire to the frame of the transformer. You could use a ring terminal that costs 50 cents and undo one of the screws holding down the transformer and put it under the screw or just solder it. Some guys are die hard purists and will stick with two prong cords. I could care less either way as long as it’s safe.

    http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index3.htm#power
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    #291 6 hours ago

    Ok, so it was tough to follow the power line back, but I "think" I've got it.

    Black "hot" wire to 115v fuse.
    White "neutral" to the receptacle in the coffin.

    I just twisted the wires on to test. Powered up, no smoke, everything seems to work as before, or better.

    I snipped the original power cord where the PO had spliced with a "new" cord. I wire nutted and taped that. (Yes, that's electrical tape)

    I left all other wires attached as I'm not certain which runs to the switch, and from where. I'm trying to make it better, not create new issues at the moment.

    Bowler gods, Any thoughts on my black/white wire locations before I solder?

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    #292 5 hours ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Ok, so it was tough to follow the power line back, but I "think" I've got it.
    Black "hot" wire to 115v fuse.
    White "neutral" to the receptacle in the coffin.
    I just twisted the wires on to test. Powered up, no smoke, everything seems to work as before, or better.
    I snipped the original power cord where the PO had spliced with a "new" cord. I wire nutted and taped that. (Yes, that's electrical tape)
    I left all other wires attached as I'm not certain which runs to the switch, and from where. I'm trying to make it better, not create new issues at the moment.
    Bowler gods, Any thoughts on my black/white wire locations before I solder?[quoted image][quoted image]

    The switch will just be"interrupting" the hot(black). Just follow the switch wires back and then you can interrupt them. Not too difficult.

    #293 5 hours ago

    Does it look as though I've got black and white correct?

    #294 5 hours ago

    here is another explanation with pictures:

    http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair#Replacing_a_Power_Cord

    The hot side of your old cord would have been smooth whereas the ribbed is neutral so just follow it back from there and add the ground

    #295 5 hours ago

    Ron, there's no polarity, so by rights it doesn't matter, but the wire with the lines
    running length ways with the wire goes to the receptacle.
    The wire that's plain (no lines) goes to the 115V fuse..
    The ground can be left alone, or can be attached to one of the Transformer's
    mounting bolts..
    Any other questions, shoot me an email, then I'll post here..

    #296 4 hours ago

    Thanks for the responses everyone!

    #297 1 hour ago

    We'll, it is with sadness that I announce the end of this project thread.

    I have been steadily making progress and learning, but have decided it is time to pass the torch.

    Another Pinsider will be finishing this puppy up, and far better I am certain than I would have done, which actually makes me pretty happy.

    It's time for me to get back a few hours and pull my Jeep in the garage again.

    Thanks to everyone that participated or followed along. It's been fun and educational.

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