(Topic ID: 240940)

United Bowling Alley Restoration Attempt: Help Gladly Accepted!


By RonSS

33 days ago



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  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by RonSS
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    #1 33 days ago

    Disclaimer: This is NOT a pinball. I'm trying to find a ball bowling forum that is as knowledgeable and forthright as this group, but in the meantime, I'm guessing there are plenty of members that could steer me in the right path.

    OK, so I finally got my ball bowler, problem is, it doesn't work. So here is my attempt to bring this thing back to life. I'm going to have several questions and probably move very slowly, but I'm hoping it eventually finds a place in the house.

    For starters, I know close to nothing about EMs, but I've ordered the TOP #8 DVD, and am reading through the PinRepair website to gather useful info.

    Here's my order of operations:
    1) Get this thing to work!
    2) Get it working correctly and flawlessly.
    3) Make it look pretty.
    4) Move it inside.

    So far I've got a few top priorities, at least I think they are, here's another list

    A) Fix the coffin hinge or spring lock. I have the unit in two haves right now. The hinge nearest the pins was off so the whole top was offset when raised. I placed a few screws in the hinge panel and then noticed it wasn't the same as the other two. Hmmmm. Also, the lane won't stay down on it's own. The lock doesn't hold it on it's own unless I hold the key, but the hook looks chewed up, so that could be the issue. Also, as mentioned, the lanes are separated, so there is a lot of weight missing. Maybe it's supposed to spring up?

    Below you can see the worn out lock catch, the hinge in question (which is actually just the small flap on the outside), and then a correct hinge from the middle and lower section to show how these are connected.

    0416191239 (resized).jpg
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    B) Test some coils. Clearly this machine had some issues as is evident from the fried coil that was laying in the coffin, along with several bulb receptors taped up, or missing and the wires taped. I also see several coils with their wires snipped. So, I guess I should start testing some coils next? I'll also order some light sockets while I'm at it.

    0416191223a (resized).jpg
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    C) Clean up the Bakelite pads and contacts. I think that is the name for them. Anyway, the cool looking metal dots on the reddish plate. I see some yellow markings for alignment already, but I'll make certain to mark any others. Scotchbrite/600 grit sandpaper seems to be the order of the day for these.

    0416191209b (resized).jpg
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    D) Check and replace fuses. While 1 fuse is missing, the other 4 look good. Of course I'll pull them and test them to make certain.
    .
    .
    .

    OK, well, that's my starting point. Any wisdom, direction, or thoughts are welcomed.
    .
    .
    .

    Here are a few more pics, because, well, I like looking at pics!

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    #2 33 days ago

    Good pics - good idea to ask before doing -

    I will advise - DON'T sand the contacts - use a cleaner - this topic is about opinion and everybody has one. Use a fiberglass eraser (sold in art stores and elsewhere). Or use Brasso but be sure to clean the contacts afterwards with alcohol. Then lube the contacts up with PBR-GREASE (sold by Pinball Resource) - or others like to use Teflon lube. Some like to run without lube also.

    To meet your goals you will be testing and tearing apart all the score reels to clean out the gunk - sprays and extra lube to free a stuck mech is usually temporary. You will need to understand how to inspect, clean and if necessary adjust a leaf switch. Looks like others have been in there and may have messed things up.

    There is a FB group for bowlers and such as well.

    Good luck
    Jeremy

    #3 33 days ago

    Thanks Jeremy!

    I was going to Simple Green and Scotchbrite pad the contacts, but I'll certainly check out your suggestion.

    I haven't really even looked at the score wheels yet. I'll take a shot of them as well and post. Maybe someone will catch something other than the usual gunk.

    I have adjusted leaf switches, so hey, I've got at least one required skill

    Yeah, I'm fairly certain this machine has its share of alterations.

    Thanks again.

    #4 33 days ago

    There are many tips including within this thread. Mopar, in particular, has provided invaluable info and advice on multiple aspects of these machines throughout this thread.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/show-us-your-em-bowlers-mechanical-and-old-electrical-toys-in-your-gameroom/page/29#post-4945679

    I suggest you thoroughly research this thread before attempting any work. These are a complex EM machine and in my experience it is really important that changes not be made unless you are confident of what you are doing and why you are doing it. It is so easy on these machines to create more issues or compounding any existing without being conscious. Also Chris of St Louis Ball Bowlers is always available for parts and helpful info-there is not much he has not already conquered.

    #5 33 days ago

    I'm jealous - wanting a bowler forever. Probably a good thing I have not found one as I have nowhere to put it.

    If you are new to EM's, read this first.. http://www.pinrepair.com/em/
    Tons of important info & repair tips. Go slow & tackle one thing at a time. Don't go ripping it all into a million small parts.
    A SCHEMATIC would be a must if you don't have one. I use a dremel with a wire brush for EM switch contact cleaning, but each have their own methods. Looking forward to this restore blog!

    Check out this guy's website, he might have parts for you https://www.stl-bb.com/

    Oh, & have fun with all of those score reels, you will be able to take one apart & put it back together blindfolded before you are done.

    #6 33 days ago

    Congratulations!!! I recently picked up 1961 United Frolics. From what I can tell it has not been cleaned or tinkered with in 60 years. I’m finding that all the issues it has are/were caused by grime. The game is in amazing shape after cleaning it up, just has a cracked lower back glass which will cost $150. Frozen reals and dirty contacts have been my only issues. Guests who might not share our enthusiasm for pinball tend to gravitate towards it.

    #7 33 days ago

    Worth all the work in the end, but I'd never do it again. Good luck!

    bowler (resized).jpg
    #8 33 days ago
    Quoted from wayner:

    There are many tips including within this thread. Mopar, in particular, has provided invaluable info and advice on multiple aspects of these machines throughout this thread.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/show-us-your-em-bowlers-mechanical-and-old-electrical-toys-in-your-gameroom/page/29#post-4945679
    I suggest you thoroughly research this thread before attempting any work. These are a complex EM machine and in my experience it is really important that changes not be made unless you are confident of what you are doing and why you are doing it. It is so easy on these machines to create more issues or compounding any existing without being conscious. Also Chris of St Louis Ball Bowlers is always available for parts and helpful info-there is not much he has not already conquered.

    Yup, I've started on that thread, and I agree, slow and steady!

    #9 33 days ago
    Quoted from dasvis:

    I'm jealous - wanting a bowler forever. Probably a good thing I have not found one as I have nowhere to put it.
    If you are new to EM's, read this first.. http://www.pinrepair.com/em/
    Tons of important info & repair tips. Go slow & tackle one thing at a time. Don't go ripping it all into a million small parts.
    A SCHEMATIC would be a must if you don't have one. I use a dremel with a wire brush for EM switch contact cleaning, but each have their own methods. Looking forward to this restore blog!
    Check out this guy's website, he might have parts for you https://www.stl-bb.com/
    Oh, & have fun with all of those score reels, you will be able to take one apart & put it back together blindfolded before you are done.

    I'm up to "relays" in the pinrepair thread, but I'm definitely just browsing now, I'll go back and compare and take notes too.
    I've got a goal of Thanksgiving, so we'll see.

    #10 33 days ago
    Quoted from WeirPinball:

    Worth all the work in the end, but I'd never do it again. Good luck!
    [quoted image]

    You did a really nice job restoring that Majestic Bowler. I bet that is a lot of fun at family gatherings and parties.

    Gord

    #11 33 days ago
    Quoted from dwizz:

    Congratulations!!! I recently picked up 1961 United Frolics. From what I can tell it has not been cleaned or tinkered with in 60 years. I’m finding that all the issues it has are/were caused by grime. The game is in amazing shape after cleaning it up, just has a cracked lower back glass which will cost $150. Frozen reals and dirty contacts have been my only issues. Guests who might not share our enthusiasm for pinball tend to gravitate towards it.

    Oh man, I'm jealous. I have a feeling half of these problems were caused by owners!

    I'd like to do a complete cleaning before I "hit play", but I could see only player 1 and 2 being good before I "go for it".

    #12 33 days ago
    Quoted from WeirPinball:

    Worth all the work in the end, but I'd never do it again. Good luck!
    [quoted image]

    Gorgeous! If mine turns out 1/2 as well I'll be ecstatic!

    #13 33 days ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Yup, I've started on that thread, and I agree, slow and steady!

    I spent probably 3 months doing a full resto on my United Tropics which is covered in the thread I mentioned earlier. While a big resto it was so much fun and I was so enthralled by the engineering design and capability of these machines. This is the machine in my gameroom which everyone wants to play so it is the centrepiece. I am sure it will be the same for you. Best wishes with your resto and please don't hesitate to call out if you need help.

    canon03032019 002 (resized).JPG

    #14 33 days ago

    Very nice Wayner! And thank you, you'll probably be getting PMs if I post questions and don't get any replies in the thread.

    I can totally see where a bowler would trump a pin for party entertainment. Looking forward to this project.

    #15 33 days ago

    Ron, your Bowler really doesn't look all that bad. If you haven't already, I myself would jump on that undone
    hinge by taking the C clip and washer off of the large spring rod so the coffin will widely open, then place a 5
    gallon pail where the pin unit side is so when you push the spring rod to the left, the coffin will open
    further and be able to rest on the pail. (Actually, best is something a bit shorter than a 5 gallon pail, but
    taller than a mop pail). Then you can more easily access the hinge's screw holes. If the holes has been
    ripped larger, then gluing pieces of toothpicks in the 3 holes work fine. Some might say that's generic,
    but it works perfectly fine especially if you get wood screws that are 1/2" longer than the original so that
    they travel into the wood that much further.
    The only hack that I noticed (besides the ball lift motor cut wires (orange and purple) was the ball gate which
    can 100% be eliminated anyways. The Vendors all had problems with them, so they just disabled them.
    On the fuse holder that's empty (low line), I always snip the short jumper that's between the normal fuse
    holder and the low line so in the future, if sometime unknowingly places a fuse in that holder, that circuitry will
    be cut.
    For some reason, when starting on the mechanics, I always start on the head, but for the Step-Up-Units,
    after taking off the wipers, I use a piece of scotch brite with a little carb cleaner sprayed on it to clean the wiper
    board's rivets, then wipe off cleanly. Some of the bowlers I brought back weren't far from part machines, and
    the carb cleaner easily ate away the green mold on those wiper boards, so I just kept using it all the step-ups.
    I always go 100% through a machine before plugging it in, and if it hasn't already, the power cord will surely
    have to be replaced.
    I'll let you know on a few other things when you get to that point..
    Sorry if some of the things that I mentioned are just common sense, but I just wanted to make sure.
    I'm actually currently working on a Bowling Alley because I couldn't get my old Plymouth out of the garage with
    the bowler there. I'll take pics of certain important areas of the mechanics of the machine..
    BTW, is the original 10 cent coin mech with the machine?

    #16 32 days ago

    Mopar,

    Nothing will be common sense to me, so please feel free to talk to me like a novice, because that is exactly where I am. I appreciate the detailed responses as I'll often have to review things to make sense out of them.

    I did reattach the hinge this morning, but I can tell something seems sprung still. I'm wondering if it might just be warped wood, or if it revolves around the large spring bracket?

    So, I'm assuming the low line fuse should be empty then? Good to know. I may do the same snip surgery to prevent future fuse installation if that's the case.

    What does the coil on top of the pin deck do? Should I reattach those wires, or is that the gate you were talking about?

    As to plugging it in,I'm planning on a "complete" refurb before I try that. I use quotes because it won't be a pro job, but I'll try.

    I have read people use piano wire for the roll over trips, I was thinking an old coat hanger. Any thoughts there?

    Going to shoot for at least one unit cleaned per day. After I get going I suppose I can pick up the pace.

    Thanks for the help!

    #17 32 days ago

    Ron, if the hinge itself seems okay, then the screw holes may have became to large. Does that portion
    of the hinge seems loose? If so, you might want to put in screws an inch longer than the originals.
    There's plenty of upper wood there to do so..
    On the fuse, that's correct. No fuse in the low line holder. I believe it was in the mid 70s when U.S.
    districts last had voltage for where the low line was used. My first machine (1956 United Shuffle)
    came with a fuse in both positions (low and normal) and also came with a burnt out transformer.
    Made me learn some stuff pretty quick..
    Yea, I was talking about where the wires are cut. That's the ball gate. It was meant to send a ball
    down as needed ( I think maybe primarily to keep the balls hidden when game was over) but that feature
    had multiple problems, and out of the dozens of Bowling Alleys that I went through, only one had a
    complete ball gate and still wired. I removed it. You can just snip and tape those wires off..
    If the power cord hasn't been replace yet, some like to go with a 3 prong, but I always kept it
    original by picking up a cheap 12' extension cord at Wal-Mart and snipping off the female end.
    Never had a problem. (The original cord's coating will for sure have cracks in it).
    BTW: Not sure if you knew, but this is Tim from Upstate. Figured I'd post here in case others might
    be able to use some info.
    Also, let us know when you get to the Strike/Spare Step-Up-Units. Things need to be added there..
    Also the ball lift..

    #18 32 days ago

    Does anyone know of a company that may make lane sections? My machine is a 13 foot and would like to extend it it. I had emailed STl-BB but was told they are next to impossible to find. STLBB does sell the formica for the United I would need so technically could be built. Ideally I could buy the original extension but wondered if anyone knows of a company that makes them or could recommend a company that would attempt it? All suggestions are welcomed. I love my machine but always hear that life starts after 16 feet.

    #19 31 days ago
    Quoted from dwizz:

    Does anyone know of a company that may make lane sections? My machine is a 13 foot and would like to extend it it. I had emailed STl-BB but was told they are next to impossible to find. STLBB does sell the formica for the United I would need so technically could be built. Ideally I could buy the original extension but wondered if anyone knows of a company that makes them or could recommend a company that would attempt it? All suggestions are welcomed. I love my machine but always hear that life starts after 16 feet.

    I suggest you call Chris at STLBB and talk to him personally to see if there is a solution. He is very helpful and professional in my experience and invariably can provide a solution which maybe more difficult to convey in an email.

    #20 31 days ago

    So I really got my feet wet today. I attempted not 1, but 2, (2 I tell you!), steppers.

    The first one I found out was the Frame Unit (Thanks Tim). The unit is located on the bottom left in this photo.

    0418191436 (resized).jpg

    This one was a good start. I learned a lot, like try to count the spring revolutions that unwind when you inevitably let it loose! It was also pretty straight forward, 1 sweeper unit. I figured out how the mech worked before I took it apart (bottom right coil steps, top left coil brings back to home).
    Dirty Frame Unit Stepper Coil Side (resized).jpg

    Here's a nice before pic for you, , ,
    Dirty Frame Unit Stepper Sweepside (resized).jpg

    And a few more, , ,

    Dirty Frame Unit Stepper Front (resized).jpg
    Dirty Frame Unit Stepper No Sweep Arm (resized).jpg

    Then the fun started. Removing the two screws that hold the unit to the backbox was of little help. The wires just don't allow much play. This wasn't really a problem until it came to the coils.

    The nut holding the sweeper was pretty tight, and seeing as though this was my first, I was a little dainty with it to start. I figured out that the clip on the coil side was only there to hold the spring. You see, I'm learning already!

    Finally, I broke the nut loose and removed the sweeper arm, here it is, as purchased.

    Dirty Frame Unit Stepper Sweep Arm As Purchased (resized).jpg

    After just a brushing Naptha with a paper towel, we have this,
    Dirty Frame Unit Stepper Sweep Arm After Naptha Alone (resized).jpg

    I then went on to Scotchbrite pad and Simple Green, followed by some IsoProp.

    Same process for the rivets, then on to the other side.

    The unit wasn't spinning freely so I removed the shaft. This is where I lost the spring count, it came out of the clip also.

    Dirty Frame Unit Stepper Cog Unit (resized).jpg

    After cleaning this unit I moved on. I ended up removing the top left coil as that seemed to have some resistance. Those little tiny screws are fun when you can't get a good angle! Just cleaned the coil plunger, sleeve, and no lube. This one actually went back together OK.

    Once I had everything cleaned up (enough for me) I reassembled. After everything was back on I realized I hadn't lightly greased the rivets and arm so I applied a little, then moved the sweep, then applied to those areas. Gave it test, and BOOM! No I didn't blow up, I was just so happy it was clean, and more importantly, working!

    Moving on to stepper #2. I was feeling pretty good by now; the first unit didn't take too much time, and I learned a lot. I jumped right in, took the nut off, then realized, this unit has 2 separate arms!!! Oh crap, time to take some pics before I mess everything up!
    Dirty Stepper Num 2 Close Up (resized).jpg
    Dirty Stepper Num 2 Sweep Arms (resized).jpg

    OK, got through that, figured out the coils again. This sweep arm barely moves! The shaft was super tight in there! I ended up getting a rubber mallet to tap it out. Cleaned that sucker up, and the sleeve, then lubed a little. Oh, and I made certain to count the spring revolutions that let go this time.

    Got to the coil side decided to clean the top coil again as this was a little sluggish. When i went to check the right side, I found only the plunger! No coil, just a nice burn spot on the metal. OK, so this must have been giving some issues. My guess, the shaft wouldn't turn and the coil decided to burn. I also found two wires (for the coil?) taped together. The screw driver tip marks the spot.
    Dirty Stepper Num 2 Wires Taped (resized).jpg

    Put everything back together. This was not fun. The front sweep seemed to be thicker than the shaft tip. I'm wondering if the "washer/spacer" between the Bakelite and the first arm expanded over time. By the time I got to the top arm I could barely make it stick on the tiny pegs. Then I had to place a washer over that, which was supposed to fit over the rectangular end of the shaft. Wasn't happening, so I lined everything up and snugged it tight. It works, for now. I'll have to figure that out though.

    Those little screws to put the coil stop on, well, they caused a few words to escape that I wouldn't want the public to hear! Just putting the top left coil back on took me well over a 1/2 hour! I knew after this it was time to quit for the day.

    Here are my 2 finished steppers, thanks for riding along.
    Two Steppers Cleaned (resized).jpg

    #21 31 days ago

    Ron, where's the bottom board of the head, still bolted to the ball lift box?
    When taking off the Coin Step-Up wiper, with a flat screw driver, did you first
    pry it from the backside? The wiper blades don't generally seperate without force.
    Years back, I remember keeping track of the turns of the return springs. I now do
    much of it by feel..

    #22 31 days ago

    I did use a screwdriver, that thing wouldn't budge! Do you think the other piece swelled, or did I just reinstall incorrectly?

    I've got check my wood pile from the purchase to see if I have a bottom. Who knew?

    #23 31 days ago
    Quoted from dwizz:

    Does anyone know of a company that may make lane sections?

    Being 13', must be you have a Big Ball United. I have build extensions for Chicago Coin Big Balls, and a MBA.
    I can say if you do decide to build one, you'll want to contact cement 1/8" cork on the plywood before contact
    cementing the formica. Without the cork, the rolling of the ball won't sound as pleasant once it reaches that section
    of the lane..
    BTW: 16' over 13' is a good size difference. 20' over 16' is night and day. Not sure if you have the room,
    but 13' to 20' "Wow"!! I used the entire 8' of the formica that I had bought and turned a 13' Chicago Coin into
    a 21 footer. It's more than night and day..

    #24 31 days ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    I've got check my wood pile from the purchase to see if I have a bottom. Who knew?

    It'll have 2 holes in it for the bolts. I'm sure it's much easier to move, but it's not very common for the ball lift box
    to be removed from the rear lane cabinet section. Maybe the head was remove oddly also. The head's bottom may
    still be bolted to the ball lift box..

    #25 31 days ago

    A good test of the spring tension is not only how well the stepper returns to zero after fully wound but how well it returns after just 1 or two steps up. In the video it's my opinion that stepper is still a bit sluggish.

    #26 31 days ago

    The bottom board of the head is still bolted to the top of the ball lift box. You can see it in the 10th picture down from the start of this thread.

    #27 30 days ago
    Quoted from fastford02:

    The bottom board of the head is still bolted to the top of the ball lift box. You can see it in the 10th picture down from the start of this thread.

    I just saw that this morning. Makes me wonder how they got it off!

    #28 30 days ago
    Quoted from cad-kid:

    A good test of the spring tension is not only how well the stepper returns to zero after fully wound but how well it returns after just 1 or two steps up. In the video it's my opinion that stepper is still a bit sluggish.

    Oh, cool. Didn't realize that. I'll give it a check that way too.

    Thanks

    #29 30 days ago

    Fastford02,
    Here's the proof to your eagle eyes.

    Bottom board of backbox.

    Well, one less thing I need to fabricate.

    0419191832 (resized).jpg0419191832a (resized).jpg
    #30 30 days ago

    Cad-kid,

    Damn it, you are correct! I just gave a test run, step one is good, 2 slower, 3 sluggish, 4, ugh.

    So what does this tell me?
    Fingers too tight?
    Nut on too tight?
    Needs a good shaft lubing?

    #31 30 days ago

    Took the ball return motor out tonight. Should I try to hand turn? If so and it moves freely am I good?

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    #32 30 days ago

    Ron, you had already cleaned and lubed the Frame Step-Up's gear shaft right?
    I'm sure that it steps up alright, so I would give the return spring one more wind..
    On the Ball Lift motor, if you spin the small fan, you should find that the shaft will
    slowly turn (only 50 RPM). Although I did need to take one or two apart before,
    more than likely you'll only need to put a couple drops of light weight oil in the
    two oil stems, but not until it's ready to fire up..
    The thing that I'm sure many times does not get checked is the lower rolling
    rubber that the belt rides on. It's a little rough to get to, but not terribly bad.
    Taken that rubber roller off and cleaning the shaft and inside the roller I found
    to be a very good idea. After cleaning, I apply a bit of wheel bearing grease to
    the shaft, but if the roller's hole is worn and lob-long, then that will take an added
    little trick, but 95% chance all it'll need is the grease.
    When you're ready for that, I can lend you a hand if you'd like..

    #33 27 days ago

    So I've made a little progress,

    Found and attached the base to the backbox. Sanded the mated parts, carpenter glue and some nails. Along with "fixing" the sides of the backbox. There were a few cracks that were starting to become dangerous. They're not perfect, but I plan on possibly repainting, so if that time comes I'll fix that up all nice like.

    I am finding I can't really clean the cabinet at all. I tried a little Simple Green today on a dirty yellow area and the paint just came right off. So I may go back with dish soap and try that, but I'm thinking this paint is just barely hanging on.

    Took the motor out, it turns freely. I cleaned the outside and hit what I could near the shaft with a little Naptha/Iso. Cleared out some hairs/fibers there as well. The bottom roller rolls freely. I did not go any further with that roller. Figured I'd be hit that when it came time to dive into the rubber sections for the ball catch.

    Started cleaning the scoring wheels. Player #3 is finished. I had started before but didn't know what I was doing really. After watching TOS #8 I've got it. I'm averaging around 20 - 25 minutes per wheel. Since I'm back to work this week I think I'll just try to do one player per night, that way I'll be almost done with them by the weekend.

    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

    Question: What do I do about the spacers behind the brackets holding the scoring wheels? Mine are all dry rotted. Is there a replacement part or do we just fabricate something?

    I also do not have the curved wood piece for the hood. Not even the cracked part, so I'm attempting to bend some wood. Should be a treat. If it turns out OK I'll post my findings. So far, don't hold your breath!

    #34 27 days ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    What do I do about the spacers behind the brackets holding the scoring wheels?

    It's common for those cushioned spacers to be dried out and not very reusable..
    I always keep a package of those metal washers with rubber on one side primarily for
    the replacement of those score reel spacers. I get the 1/4" ID, 5/8" OD.
    They're used for metal sheet roofing and many places sell them only along with
    the self tapping screws, but Lowes (where I pick them up) sells packages of them
    seperately. Keeping the score reels further away from the backglass with those spacers
    is fairly important..

    #35 27 days ago

    Thanks Mopar,

    I did see those in my search for cork washers etc. Glad to know I can source them locally, and cheap. Appreciate the specific size too!

    #36 27 days ago

    No problem. I forgot to mention. Also, on the curve front for th3 pin hood. A carpenter Friend has a
    large band saw and I had 3/4" thick "C" like figures cut out of 4 X 4 wood, then I glue them in position,
    then bondo. I had a decent pin hood front to use to outline the curve. I just did one up last week. I'm Still
    working on the machine. Pin hood is still off. I'll take a couple of pics..

    #37 26 days ago

    That would be great. I'm debating doing something similar with 3/4 inch plywood. Cut and glue 5 pieces together, sand, paint.

    I have the hood, just not the curved piece of wood. Turns out the groove in the hood is the same radius as a can of paint!

    #38 26 days ago

    That's a good thought doing it with 3/4" plywood..
    Here's the "C" figure cut from a 4x4. The actual 3.5"
    was a little short, so I first glued it to a piece of luan
    which actually gave it a nice base when gluing it in position
    to the hood..
    After, on the underside, I filled the "V" with Locktite premium
    construction adhesive (good stuff) for additional strength..
    As far as the bowler itself, the only painting left is the finishing
    of the blue striping. Should have her pretty much all complete by
    the end of the weekend..

    IMG_1487 (resized).JPGIMG_1488 (resized).JPGIMG_1489 (resized).JPGIMG_1490 (resized).JPGIMG_1491 (resized).JPG

    #39 26 days ago

    That looks great. Nice matching of parts.

    I'll see how my luan bending is going otherwise it's on to plan B.

    #40 24 days ago

    Ok, players 2, 4, and 6 are ready to go. Hoping to have all reels finished by Sunday.

    That little pivot arm has been nearly immovable on most reels. LOTS of cleaning needed.

    0425191736 (resized).jpg0423191635_HDR (resized).jpg
    #41 24 days ago

    Lesson that I learned - apply heat to that pin by hair dryer, heat gun, or soldering iron. That will loosen the rock hard lube.

    #42 23 days ago
    Quoted from cad-kid:

    Lesson that I learned - apply heat to that pin by hair dryer, heat gun, or soldering iron. That will loosen the rock hard lube.

    Good advise here!

    #43 23 days ago

    Ooh, had not thought of that. Thanks!

    #44 21 days ago

    That heater trick worked wonders!

    A little behind schedule, but had a large distraction. In the end, all score reels are cleaned and functional.

    Took a look at the backglass, it's falling apart. I'll probably just triple thick it as is and grab a replacement later.

    Ended up using these washers in place of the brittle old ones that were cracking in half. Home Depot doesn't carry the same ones as Lowe's, and my Lowe's is 10 miles further away.

    I'm going to hopefully finish up the top box this week. So clean or fix the steppers, replace the missing coil, and clean all relays and brush the wires so I can see some color. Plus, clean behind the backglass in the bulb area.

    0428191741 (resized).jpg0428191741a (resized).jpg0428191741b (resized).jpg
    1 week later
    #45 11 days ago

    Been a little busy lately, what with mowing the lawn and moving this huge sucker around. Found it one week after I brought home the United. It's been taking up valuable restoration time.

    This weekend I'm hoping to finish the back box.

    0508192003a (resized).jpg
    #46 8 days ago

    Found a few minutes,so I'm swapping the backglass.

    Thanks PinBee!

    0511191342 (resized).jpg0511191342a (resized).jpg
    #47 8 days ago

    Couple of minutes here, a few minutes there, just trying to keep progressing.

    Got a coil replaced today. Had to extend the wires as they were cut pretty short. Soldered and shrink tubed. Had to use a little larger tube as it was all I had on hand, but it's keeping the joint nice and snug so hopefully mission accomplished.

    0512190904 (resized).jpg
    #48 8 days ago

    Original correct color code cloth covered wire would look a lot better. I have accumulated a ton over the last few years Let me know if you need any.
    Mike

    #49 8 days ago
    Quoted from dasvis:

    Original correct color code cloth covered wire would look a lot better. I have accumulated a ton over the last few years Let me know if you need any.
    Mike

    I agree, it would. I didn't have any on hand. If this thing gets up and running and I go the whole 9 yards resto I'll hit you up and make it right. Heck, if I find more wiring that needs to be done I'll PM you.

    Thanks!

    #50 8 days ago

    Ok, let me know.
    Hey, why did you sell your Taxi? One of my Grail pins!

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