(Topic ID: 64393)

Unable to remove flipper bat

By Wahnsinniger

10 years ago


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  • 26 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by BRW84
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 10 years ago

I need to remove the upper-left flipper bat on my bally Spy Hunter. However, one of the two hex bolts that holds the flipper bat shaft won't budge, and I've nearly completely stripped the head itself in trying.

Once I realized it wouldn't move, and I was damaging the hex head, I tried:
* Using a Hex allen wrench and once that was stripped the head too much, moved to a Star allen wrench, which also couldn't move it (and has now stripped the head down further)
* Using WD-40 (with the little straw nozzle, and paper towels surrounding it to avoid getting on other parts) to seep into the joint of the screw and loosen it. Didn't help.
* Hitting it (lightly) with a hammer (including using a screwdriver to direct the impact onto the hex screw directly) to loosen it. Didn't help.
* Tried using a lighter to heat the screw (after making sure to remove all WD-40 residue and keeping something nearby to smother any fire if I was wrong. Thankfully, it didn't catch fire). Didn't help.

At this point, any advice is welcome. This is my first time working on a flipper mechanism (though I have read several pages and watched some videos on them).

Otherwise, I see my options as:
(1) Just live it with. Put the other hex screw back in assuming it can tighten down the bat still. This makes the repair I was trying to make difficult (securing the coil stop correctly, which was attached very poorly with a single wood screw burrowed into the underside of the playfield)
(2) Drill out the hex bolt? Is there a particular type of drill bit to use? It would be tricky with the mechanism still attached to the playfield.
(3) Can the flipper bat be removed from the shaft at all? If so, I could just slide the shaft out from underneath, throw it out, and buy/use replacements. At least it would make drilling out the bolt easier.

====================
The first picture shows the flipper mechanism in question. The charring is from a lighter.

The second picture is for reference, showing a different flipper mechanism (upper-right flipper) with a presumably fine hex bolt in it.

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#2 10 years ago

Your going to have to drill it out, catch as much of the filings as you can. Make sure you have a replacement part. Then you can start new.

#3 10 years ago

If you can get an angle on it to get a pair of vice grips in there, try those. Hit it w/ the WD-40 again and let that sit, then vice grip it. If it doesn't budge, try to torque it just a hair tighter, which can help bust the lock on it, then loosen it.

#4 10 years ago

Use your dremel & cut the plastic bat off of the shaft & tap it down from the top. If the knurl on the exposed shaft is too big to push down thru the bushing, then cut the shaft off below the knurl with a dremel cut off wheel.
Of course, you would need to replace the bushing & flipper bat, but you should do that anyway.......

#5 10 years ago

It may have some thread locker on it. If so heat is what you need to loosen it. You tried a lighter but may need something a little hotter and more direct. Pencil torch and vice grips may get it.

#6 10 years ago

You could perhaps try using a small circular dremel blade to cut a flat-head screwdriver style notch in the top of the bolt; then if you have a small 90 degree racheting wrench that takes hex screwdriver bits; you could use a small (ie 1 inch long) flat-head bit. You might have to cut into the surrounding round metal part a little but it might work. Or, like others have said you could try drilling it out.

#7 10 years ago

A nut splitter will make quick work of that pawl, because it is made of softer metal than most nuts.

$4 at Harborfreight, $13 at Sears or Autozone.

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#8 10 years ago

C-style

nut_splitter2.jpgnut_splitter2.jpg

#9 10 years ago

How about busting the plastic flipper off the top. Slide it down and buy a new one.

#10 10 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Use your dremel & cut the plastic bat off of the shaft & tap it down from the top. If the knurl on the exposed shaft is too big to push down thru the bushing, then cut the shaft off below the knurl with a dremel cut off wheel.
Of course, you would need to replace the bushing & flipper bat, but you should do that anyway.......

This is what I would do assuming you have a dremel.

#11 10 years ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

How about busting the plastic flipper off the top. Slide it down and buy a new one.

Inside the plastic, the metal shaft has knurling and would not slide through because of the increased diameter.

#12 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Inside the plastic, the metal shaft has knurling and would not slide through because of the increased diameter.

You could unscrew the flipper bushing no? Maybe on these linear Bally units thats easier said than done, I'm no expert there.

#13 10 years ago
Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

You could unscrew the flipper bushing no?

On old Bally, the Busing is on the top of the mounting plate, mounted with philips screws, so it would be tough.

But thinking along your lines, maybe you could break off the flipper plastic, unsolder the coil and take the whole mech off - carry it to a vise to work on.

#14 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

On old Bally, the Busing is on the top of the mounting plate, mounted with philips screws, so it would be tough.

Ahhh yes that makes sense. Should have known... classic Stern did this I think as well? Bah I'm just making crap up now.

But thinking along your lines, maybe you could break off the flipper plastic, unsolder the coil and take the whole mech off - carry it to a vise to work on.

Now we're getting somewhere.

#15 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

But thinking along your lines, maybe you could break off the flipper plastic, unsolder the coil and take the whole mech off - carry it to a vise to work on.

This is a great idea. Only about 6 screws. Beats being all hunched over, banging on it and yelling at it

#16 10 years ago

Nut splitter is still the fastest/cleanest solution.

#17 10 years ago

Thanks for the ideas everyone.

I don't have a pencil torch, the hex-head of the screw is too far stripped, and the hex bolt is flush with the surrounding metal, so I couldn't cut a slot in it.

I wish I would have thought of tightening it first to get it moving... forgot about that trick.

I think I'll go with cutting the plastic bat off, trying to slide it down (using the nut splitter to split it in half if necessary if it won't clear the bushing?), then drill out the hex screw on a vise. (Gives me an excuse to finally buy a vise). Hopefully the threads are intact in that bottom piece so that I can reuse it. (What is the piece called that attaches to the shaft and the spring and is moved by the plunger?). At least if I can get the plunger off, then I can make the game moderately playable until I can get replacement parts, because at the moment my wife and I are down to just Eight Ball, and as fast moving as that can be, it gets boring and frustrating after enough games (Its a drain monster for sure).

I think the flipper bat needed to be replaced anyway, because this particular flipper was taking a beating, being hit occasionally by the ball coming up from the lower playfield. I don't know if that's just how the design works, or if it was improperly adjusted in the first place, but I bet the shaft is ground down were the screws are supposed to secure it.

I'll post here on how it goes. If I remember, I'll take some pictures too.

#18 10 years ago

Use Freeze Off Or Out. Works Like Magic.Gets As Loose As A Kardashian As Some May Re,all

#19 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Nut splitter is still the fastest/cleanest solution.

The fastest way is to break out the Sawzall and cut the bat shaft off above the pawl.

#20 10 years ago
Quoted from tracelifter:

The fastest way is to break out the Sawzall and cut the bat shaft off above the pawl.

I'm waiting for video.

#21 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I'm waiting for video.

Its with the video of threading a needle with a sledge hammer. just kidding, just kidding...

I still like your 'take mech off and take it to the vise' idea too, but that's probably b/c I don't have a nut splitter -- great excuse to get one, though. I love buying new tools.

#22 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I'm waiting for video.

No need for video, the tool is variable speed and if you know how to use one it works great.

#23 10 years ago
Quoted from KenH:

I don't have a nut splitter -- great excuse to get one, though. I love buying new tools.

Me too.

We have a pneumatic one at the shop - instant gratification.

#24 10 years ago

If you can get the angle on it... try a grabit screw removal tool.

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/ac30000/

#25 10 years ago

On Saturday I was able to remove the flipper bat.

Things that did not work (Thanks for the suggestions though. They were all worth a try):
* CRC Freeze Out - May be some combination of the damaged hex head, or the fact that very little of the screw was exposed (and wasn't stuck due to rust), but it had no effect.
* Black and Decker Screw Removal tool - Maybe this one works if the part was secured in a vice and you really pound the tool in, but it never had any grip when I tried to thread it into the screw.
* Grabit screw removal tool - Just acted like a crappy drill bit, shredding the screw instead of digging-in and catching it.

I ended up just drilling the screw out. I was able to reasonably secure it with some vice grips, put a magnet next to the hole to catch the majority of the shards, and just kept drilling with a couple different bits I had available. The step drill bit worked the best. Of course the pawl was damaged in doing this too, so I have to find a new one of those.

That said, I'll admit that because I don't have any replacement on hand, I actually put the flipper and pawl back in until I receive replacements. I was able to do the original repair (better-secure the coil-stop instead of the single wood screw that was attaching it before), and the single hex screw secures the flipper enough for it to be playable. I'm not going going another week with just the one machine. (Which itself badly needs new flipper bats + shafts, because the shafts are so ground down by the screws that I cannot secure them completely and thus they are weak)

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picture #1 - Vice grips securing the pawl and a magnet on top to catch shards

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picture #2 - Magnet with a bunch of shards. This is probably 1/10 of the actual shard volume, as I cleaned it off many times.

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picture #3 - Plenty of the damage the shaft was from the drill bit, but I know now that some isn't, and that I should look to replace most or all of the flippers on both of my machines.
Unfortunately I couldn't get a good picture (on my phone) of the damage to the threads in the pawl.

6 years later
#26 4 years ago

At the risk of resurrecting a six year old thread, I'm going to post my own experience, which may help the next poor SOB like me who has this same problem and ends up here. I had the same problem with both flippers on my new Frontier, which looked like the flippers had never been rebuilt before. I tried everything listed in this thread, from the nut splitter (couldn't find one that would fit over the pawl) to drilling out the hex screws (just didn't work, maybe I need better drill bits). I finally ended up using a metal cutting disc on my Dremel and cutting off the flipper bats. If the flippers are properly gapped, you'll have enough clearance to do it under the playfield, cutting just between the pawl and the bushing, and you won't risk damaging your playfield art. It took all of five minutes. Now, of course, I have to relearn how to play it with flippers that work properly...

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