(Topic ID: 301220)

Ultraman Kaiju Rumble Club - Kaiju are near!

By Morinack

2 years ago


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  • 5,000 posts
  • 277 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by Gunner007
  • Topic is favorited by 112 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #218 Detailed update from Luke on 11/29/21 Posted by SpookyLuke (2 years ago)

Post #278 New code is live. More code promised. Posted by SpookyBug (2 years ago)

Post #339 SpookyLuke discusses some pros and cons of Pinatar system. Posted by SpookyLuke (2 years ago)

Post #1026 Charlie comments Posted by SpookyCharlie (2 years ago)

Post #1112 Rule development planning. Posted by lpeters82 (2 years ago)

Post #1548 Links to fixes in Halloween that had not been shared in Ultraman thread Posted by paulbaptiste (2 years ago)

Post #1589 What the future holds for this title. Posted by lpeters82 (2 years ago)

Post #1686 Rule summary from rarehero Posted by Rarehero (2 years ago)

Post #1744 Way to thread stripped playfield holes. Posted by Tranquilize (2 years ago)

Post #1865 IPS screen install, 30 minutes. Posted by MT45 (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#80 2 years ago
Quoted from Morinack:

I'll be "That Guy" for y'all today.
I wanted to move one of the RGB boards for better access to a screw. I did not expect these little boards to have locking thumb clips. So I summarily ripped it apart.
Fortunately Spooky threw a bunch in their Care Pack.[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm going to be addressing this in the near future! But yeah, if you don't realize they have that retention latch, they don't stand a chance. Luckily these boards are inexpensive and easy to replace though!

#91 2 years ago
Quoted from hayrebear:

Side note—Noticed that they’re using a Raspberry Pi 4 as the computer for this game. Kinda neat. Was wondering when a manufacturer would consider this.

It's actually an x86 single board computer.
We have considered using a PI in the past though, but there were problems both with performance and supply chain.
A more recent PI or compute module would probably work just fine, however the supply chain is effectively non-existent.

#93 2 years ago

No worries
Easy mistake; they do look similar at a glance.
Just wanted to avoid any confusion

3 weeks later
#329 2 years ago
Quoted from BradLinden:

Help! I had to disconnect backbox wires to move the game and didn’t label as well as I should:
Two mystery connections remaining-
1. Longer USB cable coming from the cabinet; where does this connect to?
2. 1/8” audio cable - there are 2 jacks on the display board and I’m not sure which it goes into.
If someone could snap some photos of their backbox that would be great!
(Also, p.s. hello I just became an Ultraman owner and I'm very excited!)[quoted image][quoted image]

USB can plug into any open port on the computer. The audio jack plugs into the port with the black ring, not the silver ring.

1 month later
#1155 2 years ago
Quoted from Palmer:

It would be really helpful if someone who has extensive knowledge of the game could start a rules page on Tilt Forums. lpeters82 do you think that would be possible?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ultraman-kaiju-rumble-owners/page/23#post-6723948

2 weeks later
#1306 2 years ago

1.06 and 1.07 definitely both have major features y'all have been asking for. Some for HWN, some for UM. For UM, I personally think 1.07 will be the more exciting of the two, but I'm sure everybody will have their own opinions. Sorry for the tease :p

#1318 2 years ago

It'll be real awkward for everybody when AJ wins the title.

2 weeks later
#1447 2 years ago
Quoted from NashtyFunk:

Based on the photo I posted though, it does look like 3 fuses are out right? Cause the light isn’t green?
It just seems impossible that everything was fine and then this code is updated and fuses blow while restarting the machine.

I can't quite see the fuse lights from your pic. The lights are actually behind the fuses themselves. You'll also have to either be in a game, or the coil test menu to enable the power to those LEDs to see them.

#1507 2 years ago
Quoted from NashtyFunk:

Hoping I can update to the 1.06 code since 1.05 basically bricked my game with no trough eject and no left flipper.
I did use a PC for the update but had I'm sure at some point used that USB drive with a mac. I'm wondering if that could be part of the problem.

If it's just a couple coils out, it might be a blown fuse. In a game, or in the coil test menu, you should be able to see green lights behind the fuses on the pinotaur if they're good.

4 weeks later
#1672 2 years ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

Just heard that neither Halloween or Ultraman come with any sort of manual or schematics. That seems like it will make diagnosing and repairing issues more difficult. Are manuals and schematics planned to be released at some point?
As a repair tech myself, I definitely use them when working on pins. This concerns me. Especially, since apparently there still is no manual for Rick & Morty yet? Hmm.

Your intel is accurate; no manual or schematic is shipped with the game.

This is something I've really wanted to address, and absolutely will be addressing going forward. To be candid, we are a lean team, and all have a lot on our plates at the moment, but I believe we are bringing more engineering talent onboard in the near future to expand our bandwidth. I know it's not the answer you're looking for, but at the very least, we do have a *top* notch tech ready to help with anything you need if you give us a call during business hours. But I understand, you're a tech yourself, and so you need to be able to diagnose problems yourself in a timely manner.

That said, the wiring in our games is dead simple. We don't use a 'matrix' topology; everything is point to point, and coils have unique wire coloring. So you can look at a coil, identify the power wire (lower gauge, and branches at the coil lug instead of terminating there) and see the color of the signal/ground wire (they all have a base color and stripe color, and I believe are all unique). Then just find the same color wire on the pinotaur to see where it's connected. LEDs are all chained together, so you can just follow the chain to locate a problem area. Perhaps the more involved wiring is the switches. We have 8 switch banks, each on their own harness, wired point-to-point, but each harness does have the same set of colored wires. So troubleshooting switches, you do at least have to identify the switch bank it's on. If you can't trace it by eye, the switch test menu, or doing a continuity test should help identify the bank it's on. And again, optos are point-to-point, and a meter or the test menu will help identify where they plug into the pinotaur if you can't trace it by eye.

Unfortunately, the pinotaur schematic/layout is not publicly available (not even Spooky has access to it), so if there is a problem with the pinotaur, you can send it back to us, and depending on the circumstances, we can repair it or provide a new one. Same with LED boards, or any part for that matter; just let us know and we can send you more.

#1673 2 years ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

Just heard that neither Halloween or Ultraman come with any sort of manual or schematics. That seems like it will make diagnosing and repairing issues more difficult. Are manuals and schematics planned to be released at some point?
As a repair tech myself, I definitely use them when working on pins. This concerns me. Especially, since apparently there still is no manual for Rick & Morty yet? Hmm.

You know, thinking about it more, a wiring pinout for the pinotaur is not too complicated. Let me check with the lead tech; if he doesn't have one made up already, I'll make one and throw it on our website next week. Won't ship with the games, but at least it'll always be available online.
Just don't let spooky luke know I'm doing this instead of programming the next game, which is *totally* not a courage the cowardly dog/powerpuff girls dual theme
:p
Cheers!

#1707 2 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

How do you repair something you don't have a schematic for? Sure, you can always hold most PCBs up to a bright enough light and visually see where the traces go but man.... at any rate....it doesn't matter if Ben (or whoever) doesn't want to make them public or not....the community will get it figured out and then they'll be out there regardless.
Once I get my game, if nothing's been released, I might try to put together a basic switch/coils/lamps guide.

Most problems in the field are blown components, which are easy enough to spot with the naked eye. It's not too difficult to troubleshoot other problems if you're familiar with board repair, and have a decent understanding of the system. If it's something really wonky, like an intermittent serial data problem, there's a chance we can send it back to the manufacturer. Worst case, we can keep the board around for spare parts and send you a new one.

#1708 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Spooky has not put out any electrical information for R&M and there is also none for UM/H. I was showing how they don’t need a schematic drawing, and gave an example that could be done in a spreadsheet instead of an engineering drawing. At least for the switches/coils/lights/wiring. The board itself might be a different task.
That’s a whole different level because I suspect it stems back to the Pinheck board build files being available online. Homepin took them and cloned the board and used it in Thunderbirds. The schematic for the new board can be available while being legally protected (against Homepin part 2).

Started on the pinout today. It's just going to be a spreadsheet with connector name, pin number, pin name / function, what mech/device it runs to, and the color of the wire.

And yeah, schematics being available might be convenient, but I have been able to fix most problems without them.
I mean, even when we get Pinhecks sent back for repair, it's very rare that I'll actually reference the schematic. It's usually obvious with a couple quick tests what went wrong.

2 weeks later
#1835 1 year ago

For what it's worth, we were still pretty psyched about winning best topper!!

Definitely thought Weird-Al was going to take it but I guess it wasn't in the running this year. I guess we'll have to *top* it next year!

#1883 1 year ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

That is a Spooky Pinball Menu and is not specific for Halloween. Part of the Spooky charm.

Next game will have an even spookier test menu!

1 month later
#2342 1 year ago
Quoted from frankmac:

Just a heads up your connections to your light boards are smoked..
[quoted image]

Quoted from RussMyers:

Yep, that's well spotted. Hadn't noticed that. All of those lamps are functioning correctly, however.
I'll contact Spooky and send them some pics, see what they say.
RussMyers[quoted image][quoted image]

The discoloration is not being caused by hot connectors. A few months ago, our LED supply chain experienced a dry spell, so we had to build them in house for a short time. The connectors we used became discolored during the reflow process. It's a relatively small/cheap oven, so we had to run it a bit hot in order to properly solder a large panel of LED boards, hence the connectors look a bit toasty. But they're totally fine; no mechanical or electrical impact.

3 weeks later
#2598 1 year ago

SHUWATCH!
Code update V1.08 (scroll down, past Halloween): https://new.spookypinball.com/game-support/

#2603 1 year ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

OK, sorry to sound like a moron, but I've downloaded the new 1.08 code_UM.pkg file and placed that file on a USB key (8gb, FAT32, 32K sector size), now what do I do with it?

Copy/paste from HWN thread: Turn on your game, the open up the coin door; you should see a USB extension cable on the left of the cabinet, where you can plug in your USB drive. Plug the USB drive in, and wait for the update to complete. You can also plug the USB drive directly into the computer in the head of the game.

#2608 1 year ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Yeah, my 1st drive, an older Sandisk 8gb, meets all of those criteria; I was very careful.
No dice, so I grabbed a different flash drive.
I just tried with a newer Sandisk Cruzer 32GB drive, and it started working immediately.
It was the drive. Updating now.
RussM

Glad to hear it's working now!

3 weeks later
#2831 1 year ago
Quoted from Blakester:

#307 is home, zero issues. Great fun and gorgeous!
[quoted image]

Dedicated subwoofer for the game? Nice.

6 months later
10
#3742 1 year ago

Take that, Elwin! We have our *own* collapsing bridge mech!

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