(Topic ID: 301220)

Ultraman Kaiju Rumble Club - Kaiju are near!

By Morinack

2 years ago


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  • 5,146 posts
  • 279 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by BradLinden
  • Topic is favorited by 110 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 5,146 posts in this topic. You are on page 103 of 103.
#5101 45 days ago

Hi folks!

Replace that flimsy, cracked, or broken ball deflector shield with this upgraded version. For all Spooky Halloween and Ultraman machines, these deflector shields are cut from 3/16-inch thick polycarbonate. They will not vibrate, bounce, or break due to ball impacts. Included are detailed instructions and new posts to replace the existing posts under the left side of the shield.

Cost is $40 shipped to U.S. addresses; Foreign addresses will require additional postage.

I have eight of these shields left; after they're gone, that's it.

Contact via PM for further details.

Shield_1 (resized).jpgShield_1 (resized).jpg
#5102 43 days ago

I know I've seen low callouts mentioned, but I had never noticed until recently after the update. I played a game the other day and it sounded like a super muffled Fuji was trying to give instructions or something, but I couldn't hear it. I also can't tell you exactly what was going on, but will pay more attention next time to see if I can pinpoint it.

#5103 42 days ago
Quoted from John_C:

Hi folks!
Replace that flimsy, cracked, or broken ball deflector shield with this upgraded version. For all Spooky Halloween and Ultraman machines, these deflector shields are cut from 3/16-inch thick polycarbonate. They will not vibrate, bounce, or break due to ball impacts. Included are detailed instructions and new posts to replace the existing posts under the left side of the shield.
Cost is $40 shipped to U.S. addresses; Foreign addresses will require additional postage.
I have eight of these shields left; after they're gone, that's it.
Contact via PM for further details.[quoted image]

Literally one of the best upgrades I made to my UM pin.

#5104 42 days ago
Quoted from MongolianMisfit:

Literally one of the best upgrades I made to my UM pin.

Once mine breaks I'm gonna hit John up. Pretty sure it was him that hooked me up with the led diffusers. Happy to put some money in his pocket.

#5105 42 days ago

a couple projects im going tonwork on after my WW is up and running. Im working on a sub $ 50cad shaker motor mod for it. Should work with any olderpin.
I've been working on my cad skills. It's been a long time but I've already made and released a few IM mod stl files. Color light tree, spitfire.

I've gotten a couple snot guard freebies from spooky. So I won't need a new one anytime soon.
But now that I bought a 3d printer. I'll just create my own. I'm trying to think if there is something cool I could add to the top of it that isn't too indepth? Or maybe just glue down that little ultrman someone posted a pic of a while ago.

I'm going to have a shooter lane guard worked out soon as well.

And another project would be the scoop. That thing is annoying to me.

I really like the vimtoman mods but that stuff is some serious time involvement and we should all support people that put lots of time and money into projects like that if you can afford them. Me I'll work on something because I think # shit the bed on that area. Lol

I'll release the stl files when I'm done. Then people can just print and do what they want with them.

#5106 41 days ago

Jirahs!

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#5107 41 days ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Jirahs!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Where did you get the little Science Patrol car?

RM

#5108 41 days ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Where did you get the little Science Patrol car?
RM

Model kit found on Amazon.

#5109 41 days ago

Got the monster battle screen bug where the flippers were dead and the ball still released to the right lifter and drained. Didn't go into any tests yet, but I'm sure it's the same you guys have already reported.

#5110 41 days ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Model kit found on Amazon.

This one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZ6Q7M6/

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#5111 40 days ago

Yep looks like it. I 3d printed the Jirahs (Godzilla plus the fan part of that Jurassic Park Spitter) and my daughter painted it. She painted the 3D printed ultraman on the picture as well.

#5112 39 days ago

I just ordered it. They said two left so one left now...

#5113 38 days ago

Well, I took the last one. Should be fun to put together.

#5114 37 days ago

Any updates coming out soon? Some fixes would be nice.

#5115 34 days ago
Quoted from Slogan1111:

Any updates coming out soon? Some fixes would be nice.

Vanity scores would be fun too. Would also like to see Neronga mode playable by itself as a single ball high score mode. This would be awesome for tournaments.

#5116 34 days ago

Yeah, easy model build even for me.

RM

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#5117 34 days ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Jirahs!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I'd pay for a Jirahs if you'd print me one. I can paint it myself or if you're daughter wants to paint another I'd pay her to do it.

#5118 32 days ago

Hey there’s a new Ultraman movie on Netflix. Looks pretty solid from the trailer.

#5119 32 days ago
Quoted from haveaniceswim:

Hey there’s a new Ultraman movie on Netflix. Looks pretty solid from the trailer.

It’s actually playing in some theaters, too. I might go check it out on the big screen!

#5120 31 days ago

Anyone have any thoughts as to where to start looking for this issue: The drop target on the upper playfield goes crazy when in the "get to headquarters mode". It lights red and continuously pops like it is trying to reset, even though it is already up. The coil checks out OK in the service menu. The new manual is great, but I'm just not technical enough to troubleshoot this. Switch issue? Opto? I tried to upload a video, but this site only takes jpegs.

#5121 31 days ago
Quoted from Chrisinfla:

Anyone have any thoughts as to where to start looking for this issue: The drop target on the upper playfield goes crazy when in the "get to headquarters mode". It lights red and continuously pops like it is trying to reset, even though it is already up. The coil checks out OK in the service menu. The new manual is great, but I'm just not technical enough to troubleshoot this. Switch issue? Opto? I tried to upload a video, but this site only takes jpegs.

Sounds like you might have lost the black boot/sleeve on the bottom of that drop target.
Look around, and see it you can find it. It shouldn't be hard to locate...

Either way though, when you replace it, paint the bottom of that target with flat black paint. It will help the target registration the next time it does shake loose.

#5122 31 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Sounds like you might have lost the black boot/sleeve on the bottom of that drop target.
Look around, and see it you can find it. It shouldn't be hard to locate...
Either way though, when you replace it, paint the bottom of that target with flat black paint. It will help the target registration the next time it does shake loose.

Thanks!!!

#5123 31 days ago

Whenever you have weird drop target issues, the first thing to check is: can the game tell if the target is in the up (switch inactive) or down (switch active) position? Put it into Switch Test mode and pop the target(s) up and down

RussM

#5124 31 days ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Whenever you have weird drop target issues, the first thing to check is: can the game tell if the target is in the up (switch inactive) or down (switch active) position? Put it into Switch Test mode and pop the target(s) up and down
RussM

Thanks Russ. No response on the switch test (unlike the other drop targets). I see from the manual it is switch 26. So dumb questions - the switch is presumably bad? Is it located near the coil in the upper playfield?

#5125 31 days ago
Quoted from Chrisinfla:

Thanks Russ. No response on the switch test (unlike the other drop targets). I see from the manual it is switch 26. So dumb questions - the switch is presumably bad? Is it located near the coil in the upper playfield?

OK, switch is "probably" not bad

The single drop target on the top upper playfield uses an optical (aka opto) switch to detect if the target is up or down

When it is down, there is a small blade that is part of the white/translucent target itself that slides between the "arms" of the black U-shaped opto and breaks the invisible light beam, making the switch active

Spooky put a little black cover/condom on that blade because the target material lets the opto infrared beam pass through and doesn't break the beam, understand?

If that black cover falls off, the switch doesnt work even though it is fine

You can test this by using a thin piece of opaque black paper to block the switch in test and it will go active/inactive

The fix is finding and gluing the black condom back on the target blade or using something like black model paint to paint the blade.

Does that make sense?

The Top drop Target and the Science patrol lane targets use and opto switch; the one in the middle (Bemular target) uses a microswitch instead

RussM

#5126 31 days ago
Quoted from Chrisinfla:

Thanks Russ. No response on the switch test (unlike the other drop targets). I see from the manual it is switch 26. So dumb questions - the switch is presumably bad? Is it located near the coil in the upper playfield?

There are some pics and discussion here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/halloween-drop-target

#5127 31 days ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

OK, switch is "probably" not bad
The single drop target on the top upper playfield uses an optical (aka opto) switch to detect if the target is up or down
When it is down, there is a small blade that is part of the white/translucent target itself that slides between the "arms" of the black U-shaped opto and breaks the invisible light beam, making the switch active
Spooky put a little black cover/condom on that blade because the target material lets the opto infrared beam pass through and doesn't break the beam, understand?
If that black cover falls off, the switch doesnt work even though it is fine
You can test this by using a thin piece of opaque black paper to block the switch in test and it will go active/inactive
The fix is finding and gluing the black condom back on the target blade or using something like black model paint to paint the blade.
Does that make sense?
The Top drop Target and the Science patrol lane targets use and opto switch; the one in the middle (Bemular target) uses a microswitch instead
RussM

Russ, you are a genius, thanks. I got ambitious and removed the upper playfield - and probably as you were typing - I found the black cover at the bottom of the cabinet. Now for the fun part of putting it all back together.

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#5128 31 days ago
Quoted from Chrisinfla:

Russ, you are a genius, thanks. I got ambitious and removed the upper playfield - and probably as you were typing - I found the black cover at the bottom of the cabinet. Now for the fun part of putting it all back together.
[quoted image]

Probably makes sense to paint the science patrol switch as well while I'm at it.

#5129 30 days ago

I'm having bad video lag/ freezing during basically all animations. It's to the point where it's like watching stills shots of action sequences. Is anyone else having this issue? I'm running the latest code and rebooting isn't doing any good.

#5130 30 days ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

I've talked to Matt about it, they are definitely working on a fix.
What seems to be the main factor, is that on the right side lifter, the toothed gear interferes with the path of the optical switch's bean, so the opto switch rapidly opens and closes several times. This freaks out the ball tracking code so it spits the ball out when it enters the Kaiju Select mode, and the flippers are disabled at that time, so the ball drains.
RM

I have implemented a proof-of-concept hardware fix for the Right Side Ball Lifter Opto problem, the one where it kicks the ball back out during the Kaiju Selection phase, while the flippers are disabled, leading to ball drains

UM/HWN Right Side Ball Lifter Opto Fix - I filled in the top 4 or 5 gear notches of the toothed lifter rod, which seem unneeded, using sticky tack to block the opto beam

This seems to eliminate the problem

You could also have Spooky run a batch of the right side lifter, minus the top few notches, on their 3D printer

RussMyers

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#5131 29 days ago
Quoted from Yoreland:

I'm having bad video lag/ freezing during basically all animations

Is your computer in the back box getting really hot? I think I’ve heard of a similar issue and that was the cause. You can install a heat sink and/or reach out to the service team [email protected] for help.

#5132 29 days ago
Quoted from m4tt:

Is your computer in the back box getting really hot? I think I’ve heard of a similar issue and that was the cause. You can install a heat sink and/or reach out to the service team [email protected] for help.

That should be easy to test?

Take the backglass out and point a fan right at it and play some games

RM

#5133 27 days ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

I have implemented a proof-of-concept hardware fix for the Right Side Ball Lifter Opto problem, the one where it kicks the ball back out during the Kaiju Selection phase, while the flippers are disabled, leading to ball drains
UM/HWN Right Side Ball Lifter Opto Fix - I filled in the top 4 or 5 gear notches of the toothed lifter rod, which seem unneeded, using sticky tack to block the opto beam
This seems to eliminate the problem
You could also have Spooky run a batch of the right side lifter, minus the top few notches, on their 3D printer
RussMyers
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This bug is now bugging me more often. Got frustrated and shut the game down.

Any idea on a time frame for a fix m4tt ?

#5134 27 days ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

This bug is now bugging me more often. Got frustrated and shut the game down.
Any idea on a time frame for a fix m4tt ?

I know they are working on it now.

Is this true for you:

When the Kaiju Mode Start is lit, the ball goes into the scoop, the screen moves to the Kaiju Select Screen and immediately spits the ball back out from the right side lifter and the ball drains because the flippers are still disabled?

If you have your UM in Ball Lifter Test Mode (aka SUBWAY TEST), and you drop a ball into the scoop, does Switch70 bounce ACTIVE/INACTIVE/ACTIVE?

For me, this gives the SUBWAY TEST fits when it happens, and I've seen the RIGHT BALL LIFTER get into a continuous loop of UP/DOWN during that test mode, I think maybe kicked off by the bouncing SWITCH70 and possibly made worse by the gear teeth also making that switch rapidly go ACTIVE/INACTIVE over and over

RussMyers

#5135 27 days ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

I know they are working on it now.
Is this true for you:
When the Kaiju Mode Start is lit, the ball goes into the scoop, the screen moves to the Kaiju Select Screen and immediately spits the ball back out from the right side lifter and the ball drains because the flippers are still disabled?

If you have your UM in Ball Lifter Test Mode (aka SUBWAY TEST), and you drop a ball into the scoop, does Switch70 bounce ACTIVE/INACTIVE/ACTIVE?

For me, this gives the SUBWAY TEST fits when it happens, and I've seen the RIGHT BALL LIFTER get into a continuous loop of UP/DOWN during that test mode, I think maybe kicked off by the bouncing SWITCH70 and possibly made worse by the gear teeth also making that switch rapidly go ACTIVE/INACTIVE over and over
RussMyers

#5136 27 days ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

I know they are working on it now.
Is this true for you:
When the Kaiju Mode Start is lit, the ball goes into the scoop, the screen moves to the Kaiju Select Screen and immediately spits the ball back out from the right side lifter and the ball drains because the flippers are still disabled?
If you have your UM in Ball Lifter Test Mode (aka SUBWAY TEST), and you drop a ball into the scoop, does Switch70 bounce ACTIVE/INACTIVE/ACTIVE?
For me, this gives the SUBWAY TEST fits when it happens, and I've seen the RIGHT BALL LIFTER get into a continuous loop of UP/DOWN during that test mode, I think maybe kicked off by the bouncing SWITCH70 and possibly made worse by the gear teeth also making that switch rapidly go ACTIVE/INACTIVE over and over
RussMyers

I understand and appreciate all of your efforts on this issue. The simple fact is this didn't happen before this update, so Matt can fix it and it shouldn't be on you or us to do physical things to make it work. I'm not a programmer, but I would imagine adding some debounce or something to that switch should/would correct it. To answer the first part, yes, that is the behavior I'm getting. I haven't done the switch test, yet. What I did in game to avoid it (not a guarantee) was to shimmy the game to deaden the ball, so it doesn't do the multi activation and if I've been successful, it won't bug out.

#5137 27 days ago

If the fix in post 5130 is in fact what everyone needs maybe they could modify the CAD files and if nothing else post the stl. We could all print our own and anyone without a printer could certainly find somebody that has a printer to make one for them. Shoot, I have a printer and would be able to print some. Maybe not 1,750 of them, but some.

#5138 27 days ago
Quoted from pballinhd:

Purchasing the three pack of servo's from Amazon was a waste of $. I bought these many months ago as spares based on recommendations on this board. I decided to install them this weekend and ended up putting in the original plastic gear servos (working fine).
[quoted image]

Following up the Balton Servo issues - if you are going to replace them (which you will at some point), be alert to the two different versions for sale on Amazon. One was recommended early on: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0874JS7BX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
These suck. I replaced them and about three months later they failed. Go with the Jeffkkip brand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6FZVT1 Photos show the quality difference.

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#5139 27 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

If the fix in post 5130 is in fact what everyone needs maybe they could modify the CAD files and if nothing else post the stl. We could all print our own and anyone without a printer could certainly find somebody that has a printer to make one for them. Shoot, I have a printer and would be able to print some. Maybe not 1,750 of them, but some.

There is a code fix coming; I just did this on my own game to prove to myself that rapid open/close of that switch due to ball bounce at the end of the subway and especially the gear teeth interference WAS the cause of the bug.

A "real" fix must be in code, IMO. And it's coming.

RM

#5140 25 days ago

Well a week of owning my first 3D printer, first week playing with bambu studio and 3 prototypes. I came up with this for my Ultraman.
Just going to add some color and see about some led for behind it to shine through a few windows I left open in the model.
I was hoping some one at Spooky SpookyLuke was going to make a quick file for us to print to make that area worthy of this theme. Hopefully I can print some more usefull projects to make this printer worth the $$$.
When this is painted and installed my next project it some type of mod for that horrible scoop and the ball lock area in the upper left of the playfield.

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#5141 23 days ago

Anyone install illuminated buttons in their garage game? I recently installed a set a set of bright mods buttons in my PinBot and want to do the same for Ultraman. On their website they have a link to instructions on how to do this to an TNA but that game uses the PROC board set set and Ultraman/Halloween use their own setup. Bright Mods need a 12V power source. Can this be pulled from the power supply terminal block in the back of the cab? I believe these lights use around .2 amps.

#5142 23 days ago
Quoted from alexorear:

Anyone install illuminated buttons in their garage game? I recently installed a set a set of bright mods buttons in my PinBot and want to do the same for Ultraman. On their website they have a link to instructions on how to do this to an TNA but that game uses the PROC board set set and Ultraman/Halloween use their own setup. Bright Mods need a 12V power source. Can this be pulled from the power supply terminal block in the back of the cab? I believe these lights use around .2 amps.

Yes, you can pull 12v directly from the power distribution board located at the back right of the cabinet. Just pay attention to the pinouts of the plugs.

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#5143 23 days ago

I put this lit button kit on my UM, didn't need to tie in to the PS in the back although you could do so

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/illuminated-flipper-button-kit?_pos=2&_sid=d97ce2c17&_ss=r

RM

#5144 23 days ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

I put this lit button kit on my UM, didn't need to tie in to the PS in the back although you could do so

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/illuminated-flipper-button-kit?_pos=2&_sid=d97ce2c17&_ss=r

RM

Yes, this is the right answer (IMHO). Comet is the BEST anyway and they have an AMAZING arcade near Boulder CO if you are in the area. But they illuminated buttons will run with a matrix connector to the bulbs in the coin door. Much simpler than other options out there. I have Comet light up flipper buttons on R&M and UM with no issues.

#5145 22 days ago

What I like about the Bright Mods buttons is that it uses a light ring similar to what Spooky used on Scooby Doo except the color seems more saturated, maybe because they are 12v LEDs. I also like the pulsing effect which the Comet buttons don't have. Looks like it should be easy enough to tap into the 12v in the back of the cab. Thanks everyone!

2 weeks later
#5146 3 days ago

A long time ago I discussed designing a mod to "hide" the Baltan figures when they aren't swung out. I ended up making a prototype of sorts: getting the fit right for a basic "building" shape that could go between the existing builds and attach to existing screws. However- I don't have any 3D modeling skills or access to a 3D printer. If there is anyone who does have these skills and is interested in carrying the project further, I would happily ship you my prototype buildings and let you run with it. You'd be free to design, build, and sell these as you see fit.

Hope someone has the interest/skill to make this happen!

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