(Topic ID: 65457)

Ugh, need help again please

By Miknan

7 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 23 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by kvan99
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


Linked Games

#1 7 years ago

JD mostly working good but once in a great while the game would act crazy; one of the flippers wouldn't work and the display would lock. Someone suggested replacing all the ribbon cables so I did. Being new to this is was a bit harder than I thought. The new cables are stiff and they didn't push on very easily which I guess would be a good thing if I put them on straight. I wished I had tested the pin after replacing each cable that way I could of pinpointed which cable caused a problem should there be one. Anyway, after replacing all the ribbon cables the display was all dots and while there were lights, hitting the start button would not start a game.

I put all the old cables back on. With all the difficulty I had putting the new cables on I was sure I must have bent a pin somewhere but I don't see any. With the original cables on, the display now works and the game starts but none of the four flippers work. I've reseated the cables three times and it hasn't helped. I looked at all the fuses and they look good. I pulled two off the fliptronics board and they tested ok. The rest of the fuses I put my meter on them without pulling them and they tested fine. I'm not sure if you can test them this way. I checked all the other solenoids in the test mode and they all fire. I guess I'm not sure what else to do. I'm sure I should be checking voltages to the flippers somewhere but I'm not sure where. While I wait and hope for some help I'll keep reading stuff on here and elsewhere on the internet. Thanks in advance for any help.

Oh, one more thing they I'm not sure is relevant. There is an external box with the batteries dangling down the side. It use to be taped to the cabinet at one time but now is just hanging there. I moved it over a couple times. When I turned the game on it was set back to factory settings.

#2 7 years ago

You can't check fuses in circuit. Pull and check with a meter.

Ribbon cables - be sure you have them red stripe pin one each end.

LTG : )

#3 7 years ago

Ok. I'll have to pull each fuse. Is the best way to get them to just pry from one end or grasp it with some needle nose plyers and pull? If they check out fine do you have any other suggestions? It seems to me I must have damaged a pin somewhere while replacing the ribbon cables but visually they all look ok. I double and tripled checked each cable pin one was correct on each end.

#4 7 years ago

Fuses are unfortunately ok.

#5 7 years ago

If all flippers are out you must have seated the cable wrong...it's easy to miss the pins, get a flash light and look at the cable and pins and line them up then push the cable in. The factory setting is due to the battery holder moving and the batteries are not sitting well so you lost your setting...also when you lose factory setting the game is not on free play anymore so pushing the start button will not work, you need credits on it!

#6 7 years ago

Yeah u have definitely missed some pins somewhere ! This happened to me when I first got into pinball . Even if they are new ribbon cables they shouldn't be hard to press on . U may have squeezed two together somewhere . Unfortunately u are gonna have to inspect each connector !

#7 7 years ago

Would the pin be obviously bent, like in flattened out? Seems if the connector goes on and it's not lined up it would badly bend it. If everything works except completely dead flippers does that mean that it has to coming from the fliptronics board or not necessarily?

#8 7 years ago

If the cables were that hard to push on you may want to check solder joints at the pins. It is possible to break one and it is very hard to see. The solder joint is what I am referring to.

#9 7 years ago

Anybody have any idea what connector it's likely to be?

#10 7 years ago

Have you determined whether it is the flipper button (look in Switch Edges) or the flipper actuation (coil test) that is not working?

If the new cables caused more problems than the old ones, and the new ones felt tighter, it could be that you have a pin problem somewhere and the new tighter cables were pushing the pins out of position more than the old cables.

I think it's time to call Rob Anthony and rule out the boards, one by one. It could be a simple pin solder reflow. Personally, I am not experienced enough to even attempt it, so I always have a technician do it.

#11 7 years ago

Neither flippers not flipper coil work.

#12 7 years ago
Quoted from Miknan:

Neither flippers not flipper coil work.

So the flipper buttons do not show in switch edges but the other switches work correctly?

Also, the flipper solenoids do not work in the solenoid test but all the other solenoids work?

#13 7 years ago

It's actually very simple to diagnose this, answer these questions:
1. Does the game boot up in attract mode, with the start button flashing?
2. If so go to the switch test and go into the solenoid or coil test, you need to have the coinbox door closed because with the door open the 50v circuit is turned off, you can either tape the white switch near the left side of the door closed or pull it out slightly to the test position.
3. During the coil test do they flippers and slings fire?
if they don't fire but were working before the cable change then you did not seat the cables correctly..simple as that. Are the red stripe orientation of the cables are all on the left hand side?
Lastly take the cables off and inspect the pins, then put them back with ample light so you can see the pins lining up with the cable before pressing them down.

#14 7 years ago

Everything works except the flippers which do not show up in the switch test nor does the flipper solenoid fire. It did before I messed with the cables. I've reseated them several times and have looked closely with a flashlight looking for a bent pin. There are a couple barely bent and putting the cable back on seems to fit on but I still have this problem. I'ts a little difficult to get a great view of the connectors on the left side of the machine because you have to look from the right and my eyes kind of suck. I need a magnifying glass to get a better look.

I've wrote Rob Anthony. What I do from there depends on the cost involved. Instead of spending all the money for repair if it's outrageous, I'm half tempted to use that money to put towards another Bally machine that has similar cards I can swap out to at least figure out which card has problmes because I could fix it from there I think.

#15 7 years ago

On a similar notes, what would be an inexpensive machine that I could swap cards out with Judge Dredd?

#16 7 years ago
Quoted from Miknan:

I've wrote Rob Anthony. What I do from there depends on the cost involved. Instead of spending all the money for repair if it's outrageous, ...

His rates are extremely reasonable. The last time I sent something to him for repair, the two-way shipping charges were almost as much as the charge for his services. His rates are certainly cheaper than selling the machine at a loss and buying a new machine.

The Coinop Cauldron ( http://webpages.charter.net/coinopcauldron/brepairs.html )is another option - they offer fixed prices for repairs.

#17 7 years ago

You ought to be able to swap parts with any other WPC DCS machine ( http://ipdb.org/search.pl?searchtype=advanced&mpu=29 ) but none are particularly cheap or easy to find:
Demolition Man
Indiana Jones
Star Trek Next Generation

If you loosen up to WPC non-DCS, there will be some parts you can swap and some that you can not: http://ipdb.org/search.pl?mpu=27&searchtype=advanced

For example, the driver board is the same between all of the machines listed here: http://rottendog.us/WDB089.html

If you're ready to own two machines anyway, may I suggest Demolition Man for a widebody dynamic duo. As a benefit, I find that the markup for ready-to-go machines on Ebay is not as bad for Demolition Man as for most other titles. (It's still bad, just not obscenely outrageous relative to Michigan prices.)

#18 7 years ago

Have you tried putting the original cables back on?

#19 7 years ago

Clay might be in your area sooner or later. He would be worth paying to make it right and is affordable if he is getting that far west already.


It wouldn't hurt to ask if he has plans to be your way in the near future.

Mike O.

#20 7 years ago

Clay is a good guy. He is also incredibly busy trying to get his pinball museum set up (vfwpinball.com).

#21 7 years ago

I'll write him also. Thx.

#22 7 years ago

A pinball knowledgeable friend came over to look at my JD and in about literally 20 seconds he saw I was off a row or something. Works fine now. I reseated all the connectors at least 3 times and must have done it wrong every time. Jesus, I suck at this if I can't even put on a ribbon cable correctly.

#23 7 years ago
Quoted from Miknan:

A pinball knowledgeable friend came over to look at my JD and in about literally 20 seconds he saw I was off a row or something. Works fine now. I reseated all the connectors at least 3 times and must have done it wrong every time. Jesus, I suck at this if I can't even put on a ribbon cable correctly.


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