So everything I've read, is that if you hit both flippers and the game resets in the first 5 minutes of it being turned on, but it doesn't reset after the game has "warmed up", then it's most likely a Thermistor problem in the power box. My machine is in a cold-ish room, and sometimes I'll go weeks without playing it. When I (or my kids) turn it on, the first 3-5 minutes will produce a game reset when both flippers are hit. Goes away after being left on in attract mode for 5 minutes which is our current work around. If I've played the game for an hour, turn it off, and come back to it a little later, the warm-up period where the game resets is less time then if it has sat for an extended period of time.

So I tried to test the Thermistor by connecting some alligator clips to each solder pad that the Thermistor legs are connected to and when I do that, the game just resets without fail every time I hit both flippers. Removing the alligator clips (by now, the game is warm), the problem doesn't happen. Install the clips again, and boom, reboots with both flippers. First off, because of the Varistor is also soldered on the same pad as the Thermistor, I don't think I'm getting a very strong connection with the alligator clip. It could be better on that leg. Lastly, I wonder if I'm using too thin of a wire gauge to jump my Thermistor. I believe the clips I have are 24AWG and I read somewhere on here that you'd want to use 14AWG or something? The thermistor is a relatively cheap part so I may just swap it regardless, but do you think I have BR5 problems, or something else with the symptoms I've described before I go to the trouble?

Thanks!

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. So does the gauge of my alligator clips matter then because it sounds like it isn't the Thermistor? This, based off the reproducable fact that when I jump the Thermistor, the problem seems more prevelant. I can try swapping power driver boards with my WCS and see if it follows.. but I hate to disturb "sleeping dogs" so to speak. The WCS is working perfectly and I don't want 1 problem to become two, especially since there is a fairly easy work around of just waiting until the machine warms up.

I guess I should also note that I have that color changing LED door mod in my back box, that makes the translite door fade colors in and out. I can't remember as it's been nearly 3 years since I installed it, but I think it vampires off a 5v connection somewhere (it's an older version of the mod, and I think it takes it from an unused connector near the coin box). I wonder if that is contributing to the problem, I suppose I can disconnect it and test easy enough.

To be honest, that daughter board sounds tempting.. if it can get me past the first few minutes off a cold boot so I don't have to wait for the machine to warm up!

Hey guys, thanks for all your suggestion. I ended up ordering that kahr.us daughter board, the pro version. When I was installing it, I decided to double check most of the ribbon cables to make sure they were seated flush, and the Z connector wasn't. After install, I left the backbox open and turned the machine on (it hadn't been used in a few days so this would be a great test)... the game did not reset, and the Pro version of the daughter board stayed green on the LED so it wasn't detecting a 5v issue. At this point, I'll assume that re-seating the Z connector, or re-seating the MPU connector to install the daughter board resolved the issue. But it's nice to have the daughter board installed for added peace of mind and extra testing in my current and future WPC games. Thanks again!