try resetting the pin connector on the trough. reset the pins on both boards. that old switch 26 is a finiky beeyotch. it's the .100 sized pins.

woops. I looked closer at your pics and see they hardwired it to the board. try resetting the other side.

The lines on yr DMD might be from the DMD Driver board ,, Re-seat the cables.. ( Power Off 1st )

Also if you look up the Trough Proximity Switch at Mad Amusement , I know the guy that Designed and build's the 2-piece Sensor's ,, I can PM you his cell # and he will sell you a New Set @ cost..

Pin Point Electronic's .. Tim is his name. I got mine from him and he rebuilt my TZ clock board and installed 8 blue Led's for me..

Those proximity boards are so the game can detect the powerball. That's all they do. Like TZBen said, they fail all the time. It's almost always the connector. I soldered the wires directly to the pins on my old TZ and never had any trouble again. I can't see how this would have had anything to do with the DMD/crash of the game unless it shorted somehow...

Yes, I get those exact same lines on my TZ about twice a year, I re-seat the cables and it is fine again. New cables or repining the header will probably be the sure fix.

SW 26 used to error on mine too, I bought the enhanced cable, I think it was from pinbits and never had the sw error again. Obviously, mine was not hard wired to the board, might consider a replacement and the enhanced cable.

Get you a Brand New 1 .. $ 59.00 and get the eddy cable too... End of the Problem on that Part

http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=737

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_2&products_id=294&zenid=rpaorpdr34tfhbuhpdj700hfq2

I futzed around with mine for over a year before I finally got sick and tired of the error and bought exactly what BR is recommending above. Haven't had a single problem since.

Yeah I replaced my trough switch with a new one. My old one had a flat spot worn into the inductor from the balls hitting it. That is probably what killed it. New one works like a champ once prperly adjusted.

Does your clock still have the original bulbs? If so I would say its cooking and your optos are about shot. You can either get new boards, or if you can solder replace the optos and bulbs with LEDs. Then you should never have to worry about heat again.