(Topic ID: 77005)

TZ - Slot Machine Kickout not working

By KeithinMI

5 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Fanatic
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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#1 5 years ago

So I fired up my TZ and started to play. I think the slot kickout worked once and then stopped. Went into solenoid test mode and it definitely does not fire. All other solenoids are working properly. Diagnostic says it's white-brown and white-yellow pair.

Doesn't appear to be any blown fuses. I really didn't have the time to start doing disassembly and testing yesterday, but would someone please confirm that what I want to do is:

1. de-solder one wire from solenoid coil and measure resistance across coil (what should the resistance be if the coil is not shorted or open?) Obviously shorted coil is going to show near zero ohm DC resistance and would have probably taken out a fuse right? I'm guessing (since I don't have a schematic handy) that there is one fuse that would cover not just the slot kickout solenoid but others as well.

Presuming the coil is good, that would make me believe that it'd have to be the switching transistor Anyone give me a clue which one it is? Would I be able to measure the transistor while in circuit (eg., across B-E, E-C, C-B and figure out if it went?


#2 5 years ago

I may have answered my own question. Looks like F108 is the fuse for that solenoid which I will check when I get home.

Someone chime in if I'm missing something

#3 5 years ago

You're going a little too far, check the easy stuff first. I'm assuming you have checked to make sure the wires are still soldered well on (and the little wires into the coil are as well). The coils are daisy chained to three circuits, each circuit having a fuse. Given all other coils work, check the daisy chain, as it might be that the last coil that works, has a broken wire from that working coil to the non-working one.

Above that, I had this exact same problem, and it turned out to be something in the connection between the ribbon cable. I had it twice, and both times reseating the ribbon from the cpu to driver, and the long one from the cpu all the way across to the DMD (not sure which one it was exactly) solved it each time. I eventually replaced the ribbon cables, and haven't had an issue since.

Above those first easy things, then measure the coil resistance, and the transistor for that coil. The values for the transistor should be between .4-.6, anything open or shorted indicates an issue, but if it locked on, it should have taken out the fuse, and you would have seen/smelled something.

#4 5 years ago

Ditto on checking the easy stuff first.

The wiring to the slot kickout coil takes a lot of vibration.
I find that one of the wires manages to break occasionally - breaks loose from the coil lug.
Re-solder and resume play.

#5 5 years ago

Wires are definitely still soldered on. First thing I checked. Wires from the terminals to the coil were fine as well. I just did a cursory check as I was pressed for time, and ran the diag to see if there were any problems with the other solenoids, and every other one was fine.

#6 5 years ago

Did you also do a switch test to make sure that the leaf switch in front of that kicker is registering?

#7 5 years ago

Switch was fine -- So I did some investigating last night and Fanatic was 100% correct. Kudos.

The coil wire, although it *looked* like it was securely soldered on, had actually come loose on the back side (it was soldered through the hole). I figured just for kicks I'd re-float the solder and as soon as I did, the coil started working again.

Somehow, I always get lost in complexities and always forget to check the most simple of things first.

Thanks again everyone for the suggestions and help.

#8 5 years ago

This problem has happened twice with my game now - broken wire at the coil.

Vid had a suggestion in another thread.

Desolder the wire from the coil lug and clean the lug.
Slide a piece of heat-shrink over the wire
Slide heat shrink down over lug/wire connection and shrink to spec.

If this fix does not last, I thought of splicing in a piece of wire which has finer strands. The conductor which is attached to the coil has some pretty coarse strands making up the conductor. I wonder if more points of strain relief might help (i.e. using finer wire which has more strands per conductor).

Glad you got it all fixed.

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