(Topic ID: 267816)

TZ restoration start....could use some ideas/advice on this one


By iamabearsfan

8 months ago



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There are 73 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 8 months ago

Hi all:

Time to take a swing at my TZ. It has been a great machine, but could use a shopping. Seeing as I have had more time than anything lately, I think I am going to bite the bullet and go after my TZ and do my best to mint this machine out. The good news is I am starting with a good machine overall. I do have a new playfield that I purchased several years back to swap. Beyond that though, I could use some help. Here are some of my initial thoughts/ideas/?'s (in no particular order). It has been years since I took a project like this on and any new/updated vendor info for what I need would be GREATLY appreciated.....Dave

LED's - Best place to source these? Anything to consider?
Side mirrors - Seems worth it. Still only one vendor out there? Best one?
3rd Magnet - I have the kit. Worth the work?
Clock - I have the stock clock. Would you do anything special with it?

I have the following mods...

Robot, piano, slot machine, rocket, Light for upper pf, gumballs/gumball lighting

Other than these, any ideas of mods that I should get?

I also would like to swap out the plastics. Any source for NOS plastics for a TZ?

Thanks in advance for any advice...

Dave

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#2 8 months ago

Warm white comet leds, 100 packs of 44 & 47s.

3rd magnet is a neat trick but you'll have to drill the PF for that.

#3 8 months ago

You are planning to do a playfield swap?

#4 8 months ago

Third magnet real cool I would do it but if you don’t want to do it pm me and I will buy the kit From you.
You can not go wrong with comet or pinball life leds.
Side mirrors are cool but get scratched up easily I had them in my Metallica and they got scratched and I did not lift my Playfield offen.
Rubber I would go with Titan or supper bands.
Clock i would go with a clear face and maybe a clear housing it looks better in my opinion.best clock board https://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html
Best mod pinsider twister makes it is a mini Playfield switch kit.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/129#post-4625780

#5 8 months ago
Quoted from bam10:

You are planning to do a playfield swap?

Yes, full swap. I have only done one before (IJ). I know it is a lot of work, but I am ready for the challenge.

#6 8 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Warm white comet leds, 100 packs of 44 & 47s.
3rd magnet is a neat trick but you'll have to drill the PF for that.

So when you say Warm white comet leds, you are saying use all white? When I did LED's on my CV, there were a number of different colors for certain lamps. Are people just going with all white?

Since I am doing the PF swap, I thought drilling would be fairly easy to do. Of course I am sure there are threads on the 3rd magnet project alone

#7 8 months ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

...When I did LED's on my CV, there were a number of different colors for certain lamps. Are people just going with all white?

It's up to you. I've often wondered if you had done your CV all warm white and not color matched would you even notice the diff'rence now? And if you did would you care? So for me, is it worth the effort and planning that goes into it to color match? Hey maybe it is to you, that's cool. Just gotta do the leg work and count up all you colored insert etc

EDIT: But either way I would go comet brand & frosted. They'll work everywhere needed
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/2smd-bulbs

#8 8 months ago

Comet frosted sunlight for GI. Comet frosted colors in the visible locations. Comet clear sunlight under playfield.

Mirror blades are nice but mine got scratched in my TZ. Have to carefully lift pf. Do not really see it when playing though.

Titan or Perfect Play rubber.

#9 8 months ago

Comet frosted Sunlights everywhere... 2SMD for GI 1SMD for inserts. Keep flashers incandescent. Depending upon how far you want to take it consider the LEDOCD... http://www.ledocd.com/

#10 8 months ago

Color DMD and light up speaker panel.

thumbnail (resized).jpg
#11 8 months ago

Having a heck of a time sourcing plastics for my TZ rebuild. Everyone seems to be sold out. Any options here? Anyone know of anyone that has a set of TZ plastics?

#12 8 months ago

https://cointaker.com/products/twilight-zone-complete-plastic-set
It is high priced but with low shipping.
https://mircoplayfields.com/en/p/twiligth-zone-complete-plastic-set
These are lower priced but probably with higher shipping and look good.

#13 8 months ago

I would recommend Ingo’s LED clock board. I messed with the stock one so many times, fixed it, then straight back to issues after a day or two. Totally worth it. Never had to touch it again after that. I second the color DMD, it looks amazing on TZ. Get the magnet mod for the wire form diverter to the mini playfield to eliminate the ball bouncing back (cheap and worth it). Also get the upgraded slot machine scoop with the support for the target right next to the slot. That target gets drilled and will bend over and over - the upgraded scoop has a support bracket attached to reinforce the target. I also really liked the piano mod along with the gumball dazzler light kit. Switch kit for the mini playfield is also a great mod. Titans are also a great idea. If you are gonna shop it, I would highly recommend Titans to extend the time between replacing them. I sold mine last year and I still miss it. It’s a great game and totally worthy of modding out.

E06C07E1-F547-4BEA-B108-6C8CA7B6E270 (resized).jpeg
#14 8 months ago
Quoted from Parker_tz:

https://cointaker.com/products/twilight-zone-complete-plastic-set
It is high priced but with low shipping.
https://mircoplayfields.com/en/p/twiligth-zone-complete-plastic-set
These are lower priced but probably with higher shipping and look good.

Thanks so much! First place was sold out, but the second link had em! Appreciated!

#15 8 months ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Color DMD and light up speaker panel.
[quoted image]

Ordered both! Thanks for the advice!

#16 8 months ago

I would advise against putting any purple lighting anywhere

#17 8 months ago
Quoted from Tahitiansea:

I would recommend Ingo’s LED clock board. I messed with the stock one so many times, fixed it, then straight back to issues after a day or two. Totally worth it. Never had to touch it again after that. I second the color DMD, it looks amazing on TZ. Get the magnet mod for the wire form diverter to the mini playfield to eliminate the ball bouncing back (cheap and worth it). Also get the upgraded slot machine scoop with the support for the target right next to the slot. That target gets drilled and will bend over and over - the upgraded scoop has a support bracket attached to reinforce the target. I also really liked the piano mod along with the gumball dazzler light kit. Switch kit for the mini playfield is also a great mod. Titans are also a great idea. If you are gonna shop it, I would highly recommend Titans to extend the time between replacing them. I sold mine last year and I still miss it. It’s a great game and totally worthy of modding out.
[quoted image]

Okay, I have a couple questions comments on your awesome post.

I have already updated my clock (blue housing), but it has original boards (I think). So I may wait on that a little bit. Already ordered the color DMD and the speaker light panel. Love the look of those!

Not sure about the magnet mod for the wire form? Never heard about this one. I there a link or a website you could point me to for this one?

Same with the scoop/target suggestion.

I have the piano and bumball dazzler mods, so we are good there.

I think I am going to go with the mini playfield switch mod. Seems like a very solid design.

Titans. So I go to the Titan website and there doesn't seem to be a place to choose a kit. Am I missing something there? Is the idea I custom pick each rubber on my own? Curious if anyone has a kit they put together as a starting point?

Your machine looked awesome. Curious on what LED lighting kit you went with? I like the idea of of different colors for different areas of the machine. I like that look.

I have owned certain titles off and on over the years. I have had an IJ twice. The last one was really special to me. I do regret selling it. There were some one of a kind mods I had personally done on that machine that were awesome. So I understand when you talk about missing a given title. Good news is you can always get one again!

Thanks again for your ideas/inputs!

Dave

#18 8 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I would advise against putting any purple lighting anywhere

Can I ask why? Is it because of how it would look or is it harder to see the ball or something?

#19 8 months ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Can I ask why? Is it because of how it would look ....

Yeah it looks like garbage, amateur hour.

The magnet mod is just a magnet with a sticker on it that helps the ball stay in the diverter. Pinballpro sells them

#20 8 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Yeah it looks like garbage, amateur hour.
The magnet mod is just a magnet with a sticker on it that helps the ball stay in the diverter. Pinballpro sells them

Do you have a kit you like? Pix? I know it is personal preference, but starting with something to me is a good way to go. Don't want to reinvent the wheel.

#21 8 months ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Do you have a kit you like?

I always advise against a kit, because you're at their mercy of what colors they give you.
Personally I like a warm white GI. I actually just changed from cool white which I've had for years and def like the look better. Man you'd be surprised how few GI that thing has

#22 8 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Yeah it looks like garbage, amateur hour.
The magnet mod is just a magnet with a sticker on it that helps the ball stay in the diverter. Pinballpro sells them

I agree that too much purple is not the way to go. It is also a good idea to order your own LEDs vs a pre-made set. I have ordered a few and not liked what came in them and switched a bunch out later on. I build my own stadium lights and use those to dial in the playfield color. I did end up switching the purples out out at some point and have started putting WW leds in almost all of the GIs in games and color matching the inserts. Over time I have found that I really like the natural artwork on most games and WW is a good way get that.

Here is a link to the reinforced scoop.
https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-slot-machine-scoop/

Diverter Magnet:
https://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-diverter-magnet-tz-dm/

#23 8 months ago

Okay, after much debate, I think I like the Comet kit per below.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/twilight-zone-led-kit?variant=12493659209772

With that said, I don't understand that OCD board and if I really need that or not. When I have done LED's on my other games, I never have needed one. Thoughts on this?

#24 8 months ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Okay, after much debate, I think I like the Comet kit per below.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/twilight-zone-led-kit?variant=12493659209772
With that said, I don't understand that OCD board and if I really need that or not. When I have done LED's on my other games, I never have needed one. Thoughts on this?

Having installed LEDs in my TZ it was dam near an epileptic seizure without the OCD board. All dimming becomes twinkling. Some can look past it, tough on TZ with all those bulbs. Good luck, fun game to shop. Also, just an opinion but I never understood the interest to buy LED overpriced kits. Just go to Comet and order a bulk bag of LEDs and save a ton. The inserts are already colored you don’t need a variety pack just clear as original. Just my opinion.

#25 8 months ago

Never needed an OCD board personally for a non Capcom game. Personal pref, but will make it more original for sure

Kit too much. At least dont get the flashers

#26 8 months ago

I did end up going with the Commet/OCD option for two reasons....1) I just like the fact that someone took the time to think through the options and has everything though out (value in that to me) and 2) I am seeing conflicting feedback on the value of the OCD. With all of this work I just want it to be right.

With that said, on to the flippers. Any opinions on best flipper rebuild kits? Any other things I should rebuild while having this whole thing torn apart? By the way, this is getting to be a fairly expensive project . Wonder if wife will be supportive?

#27 8 months ago

Pinball Life near you should have most everything you need fairly priced. For sure all coil sleeves and flipper kits I would suggest to give it a fresh start. Good luck, a game worth your time and effort!

https://www.pinballlife.com

#28 8 months ago

okay, next question. Btw, THANKS TONS for answers/advice so far. Been a while since I have done one of these total playfield swaps. With that said, I have seen where people have done swaps by putting brackets that are like 10" long in various spots on the bottom of the playfield. I think this allows for the playfield to be pulled and set on a table so you can systematically move the contents from one playfield to the other. I have only see pix of these but of course can't find them right now. Bottom line is I am looking for the best system to do a playfield swap. I don't have a stand but I do have a ping pong table to lay out the work.

Thoughts on this??

#29 8 months ago

Following this thread as I'm about to do my third tz..crazy I know!

One mod I did last tine was to shorten the lock ramp by a few mm so the lock insert is not partially covered by the ramp flap.

Im also working on a custom 2d translite concept

#30 8 months ago

Cant imagine doing a PF swap without a rotisserie.

#31 8 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Cant imagine doing a PF swap without a rotisserie.

I was thinking about building one of these.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide

I don't see myself doing a lot of PF swaps at all. Like I said on my original post, I did one maybe 8 years ago. No rotisserie either

I literally took everything off the top, then everything that had a wire attached to it off the bottom and laid it into a heap on the bottom of the cabinet. Anything else I put aside on another table. Then had the PF cleared and worked on. Then put everything back in reverse order. I will admit, that heap of wires and stuff was hard to figure out, but piece by piece I put it back together. In the end, it all worked fairly good the first time I turned on the machine. Was a journey for sure!

Curious the methodology people use to use a swap when they have a rotisserie. Do they pull the playfield and move the bottom stuff over first? Followed by the top stuff once the new PF is back in the machine? Just curious.

#32 8 months ago

Depends on what kind of swap you're doing. If it's just a NOS PF you could probably do it like that. I've only done complete tear down every piece removed and cleaned. Also just did a repro swap which is totally more involved and complicated.

#33 8 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

is it worth the effort and planning that goes into it to color match? Hey maybe it is to you, that's cool. Just gotta do the leg work and count up all you colored insert etc
EDIT: But either way I would go comet brand & frosted. They'll work everywhere needed
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/2smd-bulbs

Honestly for me the effort and planning and deciding where to put what was part of the fun. Makes the end result that much more satisfying.

And yes... Comet would be my first choice as well.

#34 8 months ago

Don’t color match the yellow or orange inserts. Use a sunlight or warm white.

With a color match you won’t see the subtle color differences of the door inserts vs the spiral inserts. Similar for the lock light, 5 mil inserts or skill shot insert.

Reds are typically fine to color match.

#35 8 months ago

Thought this was going to be easy, but it never is. I was going to sit down and order a new set of sleeves for my TZ restore. Since I know the list of solenoids in the game via page #2 of the manual, I thought I would cross reference that list to each assembly in the manual. BUT the manual names the assemblies different than that of the list on page #2.

Is there anyone out there that has a list of sleeves I would need for a TZ OR can someone verify that for each type of solenoid, there is one and only one sleeve part #?

Any ideas on this would be great...

Dave

#36 8 months ago

On a different note, I am starting a Google Doc with info about this restore. If anyone were to undertake this crazy of a project, thought they may find it useful. It is obviously a work in progress and may or may not be useful to someone else down the road. Either way, here it is...

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cpPt7E9-jpGFBFcxws7F77GraEo-IWlafqXq96BlAQw/edit?usp=sharing

Any ideas/feedback that you would like to see on this spreadsheet, feel free to comment or PM me.

Dave

#37 8 months ago

Black mirror blades from Joey at pinballdecals.com. Heavy but great look. I put Manila folders between playfield & sides to lift the deck. No scratches, also had decent clearance on the sides of the GNR.

#38 8 months ago
Quoted from Jrotten:

Black mirror blades from Joey at pinballdecals.com. Heavy but great look. I put Manila folders between playfield & sides to lift the deck. No scratches, also had decent clearance on the sides of the GNR.

I like the idea of folders when you bring the table up and down. I also thought about trying to take a small amount of the playfield down with a sander on both sides before working on it to give me some more clearance. Love the idea of black mirrors though. That could be a really nice touch....man though, one scratch and that could look rough though. Tempting for sure. I will check it out!

#39 8 months ago

They don't scratch very easily. I'll post a pic. Easy to clean.

#40 8 months ago

Nice reflection but not to much like the silver ones.

08B6F94F-FF88-4E24-BF30-EE57DEA32898 (resized).jpeg690EBD60-520B-424A-ADA1-F46A3C42268A (resized).jpeg271F5A33-28E2-422B-BC01-1E1ECD31752D (resized).jpegD702A8F4-F0F3-4033-B211-3187C5A35D76 (resized).jpeg
#41 8 months ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Is there anyone out there that has a list of sleeves I would need for a TZ OR can someone verify that for each type of solenoid, there is one and only one sleeve part #?

Buy standard flipper and sling coil sleeves, a lot of them as you'll be using them the rest of your life and they're cheap.
https://www.pinballlife.com/2-316-coil-sleeve.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-34-coil-sleeve.html

That will be the majority of them. Can't remember specifically, but I think there are some flanged sleeves as well.

#42 7 months ago
Quoted from Jrotten:

Nice reflection but not to much like the silver ones.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I am really leaning towards getting the black mirrors. I like the reflection in mirrors, but don't want it to be too much.

#43 7 months ago

Well here is an update. I continue to update this spreadsheet with everything associated with this project. I am trying to document what I can to help make it easier for the next crazy nut that decides to do a PF swap on a TZ. There is an absolute insane amount of stuff on the top and bottom of this game!

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cpPt7E9-jpGFBFcxws7F77GraEo-IWlafqXq96BlAQw/edit?usp=sharing

Procurement: I would say I am 90% done getting what I need for this job. Of course some of the mods still are growing, and this of course is leading to a wallet that is thinning out. I had to take a break on shipments as the wife is starting to catch on to my scheme here.

Progress:

1) Made Vid's rotisserie. I made a couple modifications to it that seemed to make the whole thing easier (but a little more expensive). I went with all allen screw joints. In hindsight, I probably would have done the threaded joints for the bottom centers though to add a little stability. But overall it went fairly well. I also kept with 3/4" piping throughout. The plus side of this is I put the whole thing together in about 20 minutes.

2) Started moving the light boards over one at a time. While doing so, I have started to put the Comet LED bulbs in place. I know one probably pays a bit more for these kits, but frankly I like the fact that someone bagged up and documented every damn bulb in the machine. To me there is some good value in that.

3) I have ordered about 30 different size molex connectors. This thread talks about that. At the end of the day, I want to install each coil separately and the molex connectors will make that possible. Plus this way, I can keep the wires in the machine and not have to pull them from the boards. I may even molex some of the snakes of the GI's (TBD). I get that this may add failure points, but frankly I haven't had a lot of issues with molex connectors over the 20 years in the hobby. I have though have had issues working on various components of my machines and have wished there were molex connectors to make it easier to service. So I went with door #2. I should also mention that cottonm4 suggested I order from Ed at Great Plaines electronics. Ed caught an error in my order and helped me sort it out. Would HIGHLY recommend using Ed if you need this kind of stuff. Good guy.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/molex-connectors-on-solenoids-#post-5664634

4) I have noticed the light boards don't perfectly align. In those cases I have had to drill my own pilot holes into the playfield.

5) I have had some issues getting my arms around the 3rd magnet part of this project. That spawned the following thread. This is a work in progress, but I am getting a better ideas of the scope of this "side project". It isn't as simple as screwing a 3rd magnet on!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-3rd-magnet-questions#post-5665570

6) I have also learned that have a 3rd year Purdue Mechanical Engineering student as my helper has been huge! Happens to be my son and with this Covid thing has given us something to focus on. We also have some ideas for some custom mods. More to come on that sooner than later. 3D printer is going to get some overtime!

Well that is the update for now. Slowly but surely....with the emphasis on slowly!

Dave

Screen Shot 2020-05-27 at 7.17.48 AM (resized).png
#44 7 months ago

Couple pix from tonight...

Screen Shot 2020-05-27 at 9.26.23 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-05-27 at 9.26.39 PM (resized).png
#45 7 months ago

Looking good!

Couple of thoughts...
If you are wanting to add Cliffy's protectors now would be a great time to do so. They aren't hard to add after the fact but you have everything off the play field so makes it super easy.

You might want to consider adding some re-enforcing welds to the slot machine scoop, specifically on the right/ shooter lane side. Again if you have it off playfield much easier to do. They make a re-enforced mantis scoop but some report it being just a touch bigger and thus giving an inconsistent return to the flipper. General guidance is it's better to use stock scoop/ repair stock scoop. I welded my scoop myself with a basic MIG welder and stainless wire but any welding shop should be able to pop a few extra beads on for $20 or less. It's less than 5 min of work.

#46 7 months ago

Hi! I saw you don't have a topper at the time...

Is going to be available within a week here: https://cointaker.com

This is our:

TopperTZ (resized).pngTopperTZ2 (resized).png
#47 7 months ago
Quoted from Kwoody51:

Looking good!
Couple of thoughts...
If you are wanting to add Cliffy's protectors now would be a great time to do so. They aren't hard to add after the fact but you have everything off the play field so makes it super easy.
You might want to consider adding some re-enforcing welds to the slot machine scoop, specifically on the right/ shooter lane side. Again if you have it off playfield much easier to do. They make a re-enforced mantis scoop but some report it being just a touch bigger and thus giving an inconsistent return to the flipper. General guidance is it's better to use stock scoop/ repair stock scoop. I welded my scoop myself with a basic MIG welder and stainless wire but any welding shop should be able to pop a few extra beads on for $20 or less. It's less than 5 min of work.

Thanks for the suggestions. Ordered a full set of Cliffy's. Was on my radar, then fell off. Now it is back on!

I had already ordered a new slot machine scoop. So gtg there.

#48 7 months ago

New question....

Need new flaps for the ramps. Where does one find these? Also, is there a specific rivet to use? Only did this one other time and it was like 15 years ago.

Dave

#49 7 months ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

New question....
Need new flaps for the ramps. Where does one find these? Also, is there a specific rivet to use? Only did this one other time and it was like 15 years ago.
Dave

If you are ordering a new ramp it should have the ramps already on them.

#50 7 months ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

New question....
Need new flaps for the ramps. Where does one find these? Also, is there a specific rivet to use? Only did this one other time and it was like 15 years ago.
Dave

This is something i've been trying to sort out, and had no luck. Super keen to hear any source of ramp flaps, i would grab at least 4 sets, and could easuly get others to join in if we found a source. Pinbits used to tsell them, but i have sent countless emails and they don't ever answer

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