OK, like the title says, I powered on my TZ today and it gave a message that everything was set back to factory defaults. Scores, settings, clock, everything back to day one. Pissed me off since I worked hard for those scores. The batteries were relatively new (I changed them over the summer. I put brand new ones in anyway). Any ideas as to why it would do this?

Batteries were my first thought. I do have one of those remote batter holders installed. I also checked to make sure the dummies on the board were not loose as well. I suppose I could pull the board and check the solder points.

Very true but, I like to keep the detours limited to gameplay.

Thanks guys. I replaced the batteries and I will check D2 and D1 as well.

Update - My D1 and D2 were both good. However, I think I located the issue. When I first purchased this game 2 years ago, it had some battery leak so, I pulled the leaky batteries and cleaned up the terminals on the holder (or so I thought, I may have been drinking that day) and put in this remote holder. Well there was still some battery acid left on the left terminal that fused to the bottom of the dummy or blank battery contact thus causing a barrier between the contact. I cleaned that up and the terminal again, except that I'm going to have to pull the board and clean the bottom post as well and re-flow the solder.

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OK, so I removed the CPU board and cleaned up the post on the battery holder and checked the solder (which was perfect). However, after I put it back together, I'm now getting error on startup that the switch on the lower jet bumper is not working. I checked the wires, tested the diode and cleaned the contacts but, the problem is still there. I also re-seated the cables on the CPU board just in case, since that was the last thing I messed with.

I suspect the problem is on the boards somewhere but, I'm not astute to reading the schematics enough to find where to check on the board. Anyone have any advise on where I should check?

I did check it using the switch edge test. Pressing the plastic ring down and nothing. Since the diode tested out, I'm thinking its on the board somewhere.

Continuity test competed and both wires checked out good. Had to get a little help from the boy of the house on that one since my arms aren't quite long enough.

Chris, I can push the ring down and witness the ring pushing the switch contacts together. So, I am assuming that I'm good there. Also, since it detects this issue on start up test, I'm thinking the system is not seeing the switch or is stuck open or closed. I'm thinking I need to inspect/test the boards but, I'm unsure where to look exactly.

Its fixed. After pulling the board again, checking it, and putting it back in, it decided to start working again (mysteriously). Ultimately, I think it was the factory reset from pulling the batteries again that was the fix.

Thanks for all the help/tips.