(Topic ID: 111239)

TZ Problems

By jnauman

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by jnauman
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 9 years ago

Hey all you pinheads! Let me first start with a big THANKS to all of you. This site and everyone's knowledge is much appreciated and been extremely helpful!

So over the past two years I decided to do my first full restoration. I pick up a TZ that needed a good makeover. Cabinet was re done, playfield stripped and cleared. Trim powder coated. Everything cleaned. Game looks sweet. I'll post some photos later. Now on to the issues at hand.

Get everything put back together and turn game on... Only two flashers in the back left corner light and nothing else happens. Game does not boot.

Try turning game on and off a few times and third time the game boots, but the display is black.
I now flip the ribbon cable to the display at the board and display lights, but is a garbled mess.

I now decide to hit the menu button to verify that the game did actually boot. Sounds like it goes into menu system and wants date and time (keep in mind I can not see anything on garbled display).
I now hit menu button again and flippers energize and remain so.

I kill power to game as I don't want to make things worse, but being impatient I turn power back on.
Again doesn't boot. Try again... nothing. Third time it boots.

I try menu again and same results, the second time I hit the button the flippers energize and remain so. I kill the power.

So now I am asking for help and any ideas that you pinball gurus might have. Thanks in advance!

#2 9 years ago

Verify the orientation of all the gray ribbon cables in the head. Make sure none are shifted over by a row or column, especially the little short one from WPC to driver board. The red stripe should go to pin 1 on both ends. There's a 1 printed on the board next to the connector.

#3 9 years ago

Ditto Cody's comment.
Also, measure voltages on the power/driver board...
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#LEDs_and_test_points_on_WPC-089_Power.2FDriver_Boards

There is very little that can prevent a WPC MPU from booting. All it needs is 5, 12, and ground, and it get's all of those from a single connector.

Report back.
--
Chris Hibler -CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://ww.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#4 9 years ago

Definitely sounds like ribbon cables, check ALL of them as well as the one to the Aux board. Might also want to check your fuses at this point and make sure you didn't blow any

#5 9 years ago

Thanks guys. Will report back.

#6 9 years ago

Tested voltages and all look good. Had a ribbon cable backwards.

Game boots consistently now and dmd works.

Now onto the next stage.

When I enter the menu options both lower flippers fire.
When I backed out they went down. Game did a self test and after that two other coils are repeatedly firing.

Now what do I look for?

#7 9 years ago

Just to add the flipper only release when I back completely out of menu then that when the rocket and trough start firing.

#8 9 years ago

sorry can't help, but thread saved

#9 9 years ago

Lets make sure that the ribbon on the top left of the MPU that goes to the FlipTronics board then to the sound board then to the Dot Controller board is correctly installed.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#10 9 years ago

Ribbon cable is good. So it appears that the rocket switch was stuck.
The flippers were a product of adjustment as I installed the GLM flipper boards.

Now just the trough fires when I turn it on. I assume that there is another switch issue there as well.

However, why am I getting high voltage when coin door is open?

#11 9 years ago

Ok so I realized that the game is looking for balls I put 6 balls in and the shooter diverter was not working, game kept kicking ball into the plunger lane. I assume that the gumball machine needs some loaded at start of game.

Checked the diverter coil and I had the wires switched

Corrected the problem and it still doesn't work. Did I fry the coil? Something on the board? Where do I start now?

Again thanks for everyone's help I feel light years ahead of where I was two days ago.

#12 9 years ago
Quoted from jnauman:

Checked the diverter coil and I had the wires switched

No diode on the coil, so wires can go on either side.

Ball trough switches working ? Last one not getting hit by the kicker ?

Diverter working in test ? Broken wire from it to driver board ? ( ground it's transistor and if it fires wiring is fine ).

LTG : )™

#13 9 years ago

Switches are working. Last one is not getting hit by kicker, already found and fixed that.
Diverter not working in test mode. I'm getting a continuity sound when I touch the two purple/orange wires to ground braid then it quits shorty there after.

Put DMM on coil and nothing.

So transistor...Coil or both?

#14 9 years ago
Quoted from jnauman:

Put DMM on coil and nothing.

Do you mean that you measured the resistance of the coil, across the coil lugs, and it was "open"?
If so, then the coil wire is broken somewhere between those lugs, and the coil has to be replaced/repaired.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#15 9 years ago

Yes I measured the resistance across lugs and nothing. I'll replace coil and report back.

#16 9 years ago
Quoted from jnauman:

Yes I measured the resistance across lugs and nothing. I'll replace coil and report back.

You may get lucky and find that the wire lead from the spool has broken free from the solder lug. In that case, you can strip back the insulation coating (perhaps sand it off), and reconnect.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

3 weeks later
#17 9 years ago

Coil was weak. Replaced and working fine.

Now I have a switch matrix problem. Column 6 is not working. In test mode power payoff, switch 65 shows closed, rest open, but none work in test mode. Switch looks fine, not closed, and diode is good.

Checked the boards and not sure if this is an issue or related, but when I got to pin 3 of J207 I believe and jumped to pins 1-5 of J209 coils would fire. Is this normal or even related to my switch issues?

#18 9 years ago
Quoted from jnauman:

Coil was weak. Replaced and working fine.
Now I have a switch matrix problem. Column 6 is not working. In test mode power payoff, switch 65 shows closed, rest open, but none work in test mode. Switch looks fine, not closed, and diode is good.
Checked the boards and not sure if this is an issue or related, but when I got to pin 3 of J207 I believe and jumped to pins 1-5 of J209 coils would fire. Is this normal or even related to my switch issues?

As with all switch problems, the first thing to do is *disconnect* the playfield and cabinet switch connectors. If the problem remains, it's on the MPU board. If the problem clears, then it's on the wiring on the cabinet/playfield.

#20 9 years ago

So switch problem solved. Found a broken wire leading to the first switch in the column. It was a tough little bugger to find as it was hidden in the middle if the harness.

Thanks All!

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