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(Topic ID: 155418)

TZ piano switch & bridge gate issues


By skywalker

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by cody_chunn
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 4 years ago

Hey all,
The piano switch is giving me hard time, the switch #43 very close to the start of the subway, sometimes the ball gets stuck in the subway just in front of the switch blade, doesn't have enough speed to travel through it, to a point now its much better than when i 1st got the machine, have tried different switches, modified multiple blade angles, even tied a switch wire but its to thin & was no good. PF pitch is at max,
is this a common issue & anything else i can do.

The other issue is the bridge divert gate, it sometimes doesn't dump the ball out the back, most of the time its ok, sometimes it tips over the side & flys off the wire form, ball looks to hit RHS of the bridge as it tips back, I've messed around bending & tweaking the metal flaps/return & even stretched out the opening, was going to try that magnet mod but that wont help the PB,
wire form is fitted nice, not under any stress & bridge pivots freely,
looking for some input.
thanks

#2 4 years ago

Bump up for the morning crowd

#3 4 years ago

Not sure about the switch being a common thing. I've never had an issue on my TZ. The diverter is a known issue. I bought a magnet years ago that someone used to sell. It fits in the gate and keeps the ball from bouncing out before it gets dumped. I guess you could call it a mod, but it's really just a week magnet that you tape in the gate.

#4 4 years ago

Sorry didn't notice you had already considered the magnet.

#5 4 years ago

I fixed my bounce-outs by reshaping the diverter cup box. It is square from the factory, so the left wall that the ball stops against rebounds the ball straight back to the right. So I reformed (bent) the shape of the left wall of the cup to lean ever so slightly to the right, like / , just not quite that far. This small adjustment makes the left wall rebound down into the rails instead of straight back up them. You have to play with it a little to get the angle right while keeping that flange that sticks out to the right from hitting the rails. Nothing else I tried worked as well as this solution.

YMMV

2 weeks later
#6 4 years ago

I have the exact same problem with my piano switch. Doesn't happen all the time but when it does I have to shake the machine from side to side which means I have to play with tilt disabled.Very frustrating. I tried the same fixes to no avail.
I was thinking about moving the switch further down the subway but not too keen on hacking the plastic. Is it possible to replace a micro switch with an optic switch? Let us know how you go.

#7 4 years ago

Hey Bazza, so far so good, I modified another leaf blade with a small hook, will take a pic When I can & put it up, would be great if you could put a reed switch/sensor under the subway,

#8 4 years ago

Definitely get the magnet 'mod' for the diverter. The powerball is in play maybe 5% of the time. With the magnet I went from a fail diverter drop about 50% down to under 5%. Still happens occasionally but it's the exception now, not the rule. Much less frustrating.

Really with the powerball, how often does it end up in the diverter? And of those occurrences, how many fails? What I'm saying is don't pass on the magnet because it has no effect in PB.

Here's the one I got http://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-diverter-magnet-tz-dm/

#9 4 years ago

I was having a bounce out issue and found that a weld on the wire form was broken near the mini playfield.

2 months later
#13 4 years ago

can't i share links about it?

#15 4 years ago

The wireform might be nice and tight, but that doesn't mean it's aligned correctly.

My TZ used to have issues with the diverter not even activating, let alone dropping the ball properly. After some investigative tweaking and screw turning, I found that it was in a bind and out of proper alignment. Once I relieved that tension, got it into a nice set position, then locked it down there, the diverter has grabbed and dropped the ball perfectly every time since then.

Mine also has the magnet mod. It's a must, especially for my game since it's so fast. It really traps that ball in there well.

1 month later
#16 4 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

I fixed my bounce-outs by reshaping the diverter cup box. It is square from the factory, so the left wall that the ball stops against rebounds the ball straight back to the right. So I reformed (bent) the shape of the left wall of the cup to lean ever so slightly to the right, like / , just not quite that far. This small adjustment makes the left wall rebound down into the rails instead of straight back up them. You have to play with it a little to get the angle right while keeping that flange that sticks out to the right from hitting the rails. Nothing else I tried worked as well as this solution.
YMMV

Any chance you can put a pic up of the modded bridge

With the other issue, I was under the impression ball was getting stuck on the piano switch blade, it usually doesn't happen very often, but when it did today i had a better look through the coin door & noticed it wasn't sitting on the switch blade, It was trapped in the gap between the piano scoop & subway plastic, tried to make the gap smaller there is no further adjustment, i took a pic through the top with a little mirror, you can just make out the gap, anyone have any ideas

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3 months later
#17 4 years ago

Well,
i removed the piano scoop & mylar'd down a old ramp flap inside so ball transfer was smooth between scoop & plastic subway,
all seems good now, this may help someone else.

Debugging a TZ is more work than you'd like to do.

IMG_1283 (resized).JPG

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from skywalker:

Any chance you can put a pic up of the modded bridge

I will try to get it done tonight if I can remember...send me a PM re: this thread. That should work...

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