Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993Quoted from btw75:I chickened out a few months after I bought it from you. I think you do awesome work as well - but Bryan lives by my in laws so I've been able to see what I'd get in person which made him my first choice.
I'm still hoping iceman sells me your old WH2O before I feel compelled to send mine off to be fixed up!
No worries, I'm so swamped with MODs I can't even restore my own machines right now 
Bryan does excellent work; I used to own a CV he restored. Congrats on the TZ.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Ok, I lied. Not quite, but damn close. I will be next time I see you....asshole!!!
well happy birthday then since expo is in 2 weeks.
Quoted from lb1:I would also be interested in a link to printable cabinet stickers.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/
Click on coil wrappers on the left. Be sure to read the text on top to get the files with the logos on them.
Still catching up. Here are some examples of metals. The support rails were replaced, the other metal pieces (ball guides, scoops, etc) were regrained. Here are some before/after pics.
metal ramp before.jpg
Metal Ramp after.jpg
metal before1.jpg
metal before 2.jpg
metal after 2.jpg
metal after 1.jpg
support rails.jpgBryan replaces all the switches. He buys the switches without the diode and installs his own and makes large batches to use during reassembly. Take care that the diode is facing the right way, you don't won't pinball gremlins. Below you'll see an example of the process stages, his patented holder, and then a large batch.
switch build process.jpg
OK, this should have us all caught up. Bryan is working on someone's BSD at the moment, so this may be it for a while.
Mini Playfield time. The old one was replaced with a new one. Bryan installed GLM's mini switch kit, which I bought a year ago but never got around installing - mainly because I'm not a masochist. One think that is shown is that the switch kit does not allow for rivets on the plastics, so Bryan used some fancy fasteners.
Original
mini pf old top.jpg
What a mess...
New one in progress
Janky opto
New Opto
New star posts
new plastic
finis
While we're here, take note of the insert colors. This is one of the 2 clues on how to arrange pop caps, regardless of how the flyer showed them.
Red on left, Amber/orange on right, yellow on bottom. Anyone know the other "proof"?
Quoted from lb1:I would be interested in replacement, restoration or upgrade options for cardboard under the mini playfield.
http://www.pinrestore.com/Supplies.html
Under fish paper.
First one to pay the final bill and show up at my door, gets it.
Quoted from iceman44:Just Lmk know when you'd like for me to pick it up Brandon! Looking great!
Quoted from Skins:http://www.pinrestore.com/Supplies.html
Under fish paper.
Thanks for the link. I am also thinking about a way to protect the lower right angle of the playfield and the cardboard. As seen on the pic of the freshly restored machine below, it does not take much for the area to get damaged.
Quoted from lb1:Thanks for the link. I am also thinking about a way to protect the lower right angle of the playfield and the cardboard. As seen on the pic of the freshly restored machine below, it does not take much for the area to get damaged.
TZ_mini_playfield_zoom.png 412 KB
I believe Cliffy makes a protector for that and the side.
Quoted from btw75:You can see it on the upside down pic of my original above.
Indeed. http://www.passionforpinball.com/TZ/Tonyedge4.JPG. The fish paper still gets hit though.
I will try to get creative.
Quoted from btw75:Anyone know the other "proof"?
Simple. It's the order in which the skill shot "levels" are awarded. Red, orange, then yellow. Red award lights the top left pop, orange the top right, and yellow the lower pop.
What do I win? 
I see you've gone with the sample/prototype style of mini-playfield. Are you also doing the green lock and 3rd magnet setup on the main playfield?
What happens with all the leftover parts from one of these restos? Does Bryan keep them as a partial "credit" towards the overall cost? Or do you get them back in a huge box when you get the game back?
I'd tried the wheels once and didn't like them. I do it by hand. 120 grit only in the worse areas and only if you need it. Then, 220 grit over everything and finish with red Scotch Brite pad.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:when you regrain do you use the wire wheel? How do you get such a fine grain?
Quoted from Miguel351:Simple. It's the order in which the skill shot "levels" are awarded. Red, orange, then yellow. Red award lights the top left pop, orange the top right, and yellow the lower pop.
I get surprised every time I see someone defend the wrong way. Mine were wrong when I got it, but since the bodies were colored I couldn't easily fix it.
Quoted from Miguel351:I see you've gone with the sample/prototype style of mini-playfield. Are you also doing the green lock and 3rd magnet setup on the main playfield?
3rd magnet yes, but regular lock. I wanted an original playfield not a mirco, so I had to go with just the regular lock insert.
Quoted from Miguel351:What happens with all the leftover parts from one of these restos? Does Bryan keep them as a partial "credit" towards the overall cost? Or do you get them back in a huge box when you get the game back?
I'm assuming I'll have a big box on the pallet with the game on the way back. I've had several inquiries for parts, so my plan is to just sell as much as I can when its done. The only thing I'm hoping Bryan will do for me is to take some pics of the old playfield problem areas so I can sell the pf and have him ship it instead of shipping the pf crate back to me only to ship it back out after selling.
Quoted from btw75:I'm assuming I'll have a big box on the pallet with the game on the way back. I've had several inquiries for parts, so my plan is to just sell as much as I can when its done.
Dibs!
Not really, though, as I don't think I actually "need" anything anymore. I, like you, have been slowly buying parts as I've gone along. I've installed most of it already except for an NOS main ramp and a couple new plastics that I don't technically need as those plastics on the game are just fine, the new ones came as a package deal.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I'd tried the wheels once and didn't like them. I do it by hand. 120 grit only in the worse areas and only if you need it. Then, 220 grit over everything and finish with red Scotch Brite pad.
I use that "screenback" stuff, or whatever it's called, mainly because I've only been regraining scoops so far and it doesn't really clog up with any shavings. Then I finish with the green Scotch Brite pad. I've been quite happy with the results.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I'd tried the wheels once and didn't like them. I do it by hand. 120 grit only in the worse areas and only if you need it. Then, 220 grit over everything and finish with red Scotch Brite pad.
If I'm ever at the point where I need a full restoration, I know who to call. I dig a man who shares his technique with colleagues. That's a sign of a true professional.
Quoted from btw75:Reason 342.
Sure, there's skill and all that. But when a person is confident enough to share technique, that is an entirely different level.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I'd tried the wheels once and didn't like them. I do it by hand. 120 grit only in the worse areas and only if you need it. Then, 220 grit over everything and finish with red Scotch Brite pad.
Awesome. That's even easier than the wheel. I recently had to repair a gouged up lockdown bar, and used 550 Wet dry, followed up with 2000 grit. That worked pretty well as well. Not chrome shiny, but going to try the buffing wheel to see what i can get it to look like.
Bryan finished up another job, so its back to mine.
Challenges outstanding include locating another WPC driver board. Although I had never has a reset issue, apparently there is low 5v and considerable corrosion due to batteries leaking from a CPU board to this one. Clive doesn't feel its worth fixing, so Bryan is looking into options for another board. I looked at aftermarket options but didn't really like what I see available.
The other challenge is to find the rear plastic ball trough. Likely the outcome will be my old busted one being used until Twisted re-makes it then I'll swap it out.
Here are the current pics of playfield population. You'll notice two different pop pics, I went with the fruity option.
pf populating under 1.jpg
pf populating under 2.jpg
pf populating under 3.jpg
pf populating under 4.jpg
pf populating 1.jpg
Stock
Fruity
pf populating 3.jpg
pf populating 4.jpg
This is where we stand until the powder coating comes back.
There's only one problem with this TZ It's not mine 
The playfield is back in the cab.
We are waiting on a few things still:
1) Driver board - anyone have a nice one?
2) Boards to ship in from Coin-Op Cauldron - they are on the way. LOTS of repair and updating, frankly I don't know how the game functioned with as much stuff as he found wrong or damaged.
3) Rear ball trough - twisted pins is remaking this, but if it doesn't get remade in time I think we can make do with my busted one.
4) wireform and trim - Gio (Pinball Refinery) is handling this end. Ink Black with clear coat - hopefully those ship soon.
5) looking for color matched start and extra ball buttons
pro-tip: I assumed Bryan just wanted his rotisserie space back while waiting on parts but no - he has found that installing the pf back in the game before final assembly saves time as he is able to do all the light/switch tests before things like wire forms are added. Makes sense to me.
Thanks, those look better. I don't know what Bryan is thinking on the ones he put in mine. Well, maybe I do, I think they were in there when I sent it, but not my doing...
Quoted from btw75:Thanks, those look better. I don't know what Bryan is thinking on the ones he put in mine. Well, maybe I do, I think they were in there when I sent it, but not my doing...
Yup. They came with the game. I have no way of printing cards so I normally order them from various vendors. Honestly, Brandon, you being the hands on kind of guy you are, I thought you might like to finalize the game with something you found. The ones above look fantastic.
I designed those a few days after I got my TZ a couple years ago, I was so excited to have finally one. Make sure you print them out at 100% scale and on some kind of high quality paper or photo paper(matte, glossy, doesn't matter)
Here's how they look installed:
This picture is 2 years old. I know, it's dirty...
I'm making a mental footnote, I'm only through the second page, but damn...
that's kind of like stab in the heart to see molex replaced back to IDC. 100% correct it won't be an issue in home use, but man. I hope that's not one of the few things I did to this game when I had it. Pretty sure the last owner had already done all that junk. Only thing I really did was add LEDs and clean the playfield. =P
Just an interesting observation to note... if I ever send off a game to be "restored" I may not want it back "factory" in that way!
RE: The driver board. I had acid damage to mine and I replaced it with a driver board made by Rottondog. Couldn't wait to get a nice new one it. BUT . . . I had problems with it. It would not boot the game correctly. I had a tech who really knows his voltage shit to come look at it. He did a lot of tests and said there was a "mis-match of voltages" (whatever that means!) and the board could not power the TZ correctly. I really hated that! So . . . I'm telling you be careful if you go that route. I can't swear that a Rottondog won't work on YOUR pin, but be prepared. I really like what they produce and try to do. Maybe contact them ahead of time and ask if you can return it if it doesn't work with your TZ. Sure was a nice looking board!
I ended up having my original board repaired and it is now working fine.
Mike in Kentucky
Thanks, Mike. That's part of the reason we're looking for an original board. I've got some leads, but most of what my people can come up with are not what you'd put in a restore like this.
Quoted from Pintucky:RE: The driver board. I had acid damage to mine and I replaced it with a driver board made by Rottondog. Couldn't wait to get a nice new one it. BUT . . . I had problems with it. It would not boot the game correctly. I had a tech who really knows his voltage shit to come look at it. He did a lot of tests and said there was a "mis-match of voltages" (whatever that means!) and the board could not power the TZ correctly. I really hated that! So . . . I'm telling you be careful if you go that route. I can't swear that a Rottondog won't work on YOUR pin, but be prepared. I really like what they produce and try to do. Maybe contact them ahead of time and ask if you can return it if it doesn't work with your TZ. Sure was a nice looking board!
I ended up having my original board repaired and it is now working fine.
Mike in Kentucky
Quoted from Frax:I'm making a mental footnote, I'm only through the second page, but damn...
that's kind of like stab in the heart to see molex replaced back to IDC. 100% correct it won't be an issue in home use, but man. I hope that's not one of the few things I did to this game when I had it. Pretty sure the last owner had already done all that junk. Only thing I really did was add LEDs and clean the playfield. =P
Just an interesting observation to note... if I ever send off a game to be "restored" I may not want it back "factory" in that way!
Your current draw with LED is so much less that the IDC looks better and should be more than adequate, especially for huo conditions. As you can see, we're defiantly not going stock all the way. Your other improvement, the translucent pop bodies are staying, but they will be in the right order this time... 
Quoted from Miguel351:I designed those a few days after I got my TZ a couple years ago, I was so excited to have finally one. Make sure you print them out at 100% scale and on some kind of high quality paper or photo paper(matte, glossy, doesn't matter)
Here's how they look installed:
This picture is 2 years old. I know, it's dirty...58593.jpg 248 KB
These are the best integrated cards i have seen. Awesome!
Quoted from Miguel351:I designed those a few days after I got my TZ a couple years ago, I was so excited to have finally one. Make sure you print them out at 100% scale and on some kind of high quality paper or photo paper(matte, glossy, doesn't matter)
Here's how they look installed:
This picture is 2 years old. I know, it's dirty...
Thanks for these. They look awesome.
Quoted from btw75:Your current draw with LED is so much less that the IDC looks better and should be more than adequate, especially for huo conditions. As you can see, we're defiantly not going stock all the way. Your other improvement, the translucent pop bodies are staying, but they will be in the right order this time...
LMAO. They did look awesome though. Now to read through the rest of this.
Quoted from btw75:Bryan used the PPS Next Gen. Way better than some of the ebay ones - look above for discussion on that.
ALSO -
Bryan just texted me the words "okey dokey". Should I fire him or is that just a Minnesota thing?
Fun side note. The game as you got it from me already had Next Gen decals on three sides. The last owner had bought a partial set and couldn't ever find a left side. They were put on shortly before I had gotten the game, so alignment issues notwithstanding, you were already an owner of the Reflection Flaw, you just didn't know it!
Quoted from btw75:I wonder why the PO had cliffy's on?
If you're talking about me, yes, I installed the cliffy's to prevent any damage, not to cover it up. Let me tell you it was SO much fun getting all up in there to do that too...especially the gumball.. >_<
Quoted from btw75:The playfield is back in the cab.
We are waiting on a few things still:
1) Driver board - anyone have a nice one?
2) Boards to ship in from Coin-Op Cauldron - they are on the way. LOTS of repair and updating, frankly I don't know how the game functioned with as much stuff as he found wrong or damaged.
3) Rear ball trough - twisted pins is remaking this, but if it doesn't get remade in time I think we can make do with my busted one.
4) wireform and trim - Gio (Pinball Refinery) is handling this end. Ink Black with clear coat - hopefully those ship soon.
5) looking for color matched start and extra ball buttons
pro-tip: I assumed Bryan just wanted his rotisserie space back while waiting on parts but no - he has found that installing the pf back in the game before final assembly saves time as he is able to do all the light/switch tests before things like wire forms are added. Makes sense to me.IMG954831.jpg 250 KB
Armor is all done. Packing it up today. Will shoot you some pics.
With that, the game should be done end of next week.
FWIW I found a white start button on Marco's site but no luck on a white or blue extra ball button.
Quoted from Zdoor:Armor is all done. Packing it up today. Will shoot you some pics.
Quoted from btw75:I can't take credit - the previous owner did that. My only change will be to have them in the correct order, as the software for the skill shot demands.
Yep, that's always a personal choice.. I matched the flyer, most prefer the skill shot. lol.
Glad to see you guys were able to use the gumball halves to make a whole. Someone here on Pinside sold me that other half at a very reasonable price, was just waiting for a reason to get back in there to put it on since the old one was secure enough to not bother me.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:With that, the game should be done end of next week.
FWIW I found a white start button on Marco's site but no luck on a white or blue extra ball button.
Me neither. I think these may come apart so I could create a blue one. Not sure though.
Thought I'd share the extent of the board refurbishment. Believe it or not, this pin worked fine with no resets. 
. I had never a reason to pull the boards or looks at them closely....
WMS WPC-3 Power Driver board (No serial number. Prior repair and battery corrosion throughout driver transistor area): Beyond economical repair. !!Still need one of these!! Pm me or Bryan if you have one.
WMS WPC-89 CPU board (No serial number. Extensive prior repairs (NTE parts). Blown logic. Intermittent garbage on display. Inoperative switches. Corroding battery socket (looks to be water damage). Wiring to wrong destination on rear of board. Bad sockets. Broken ASIC socket): 74LS14 IC (U5 -- blown) and 14-pin socket. New 84-pin PLCC socket. New U9 Williams custom ASIC chip (intermittent garbage on display). Replaced game ROM (NOS 27C040 with version 9.4H Twilight Zone game code). Replaced melted U20 IC socket. Replaced NTE chips with OEM -- 74LS374 (U14) and 74LS240 ICs (U15). Corrected incorrect wiring on rear. Fixed open trace and added Kapton tape. Removed damaged IC sockets from U16, U17. 2x LM339 ICs (U16, U17) and 2x 14-pin IC socket. Removed excess flux from prior repairs. Straightened bent pins. 100uf/25v/105c filter capacitor (C31). J210 high temperature power input header. New type 2 battery holder. Removed a small amount of battery corrosion from board surface. Board cleaned up. Two-tier full functional testing
WMS Fliptronic II (SN 53220180432): All fuses removed and checked -- okay. Added missing 100uf/100v/105c capacitor (C2). 100uf/25v/105c (C1) capacitor. Reflow all headers, bridge rectifier and fuse holders. Two-tier full functional testing.
WMS WPC-89 Sound board (SN 53336104986. Capacitors way out of tolerance/drying-out/high ESR): All socketed ICs removed and tested. Sound ROMs (3) removed, internal data verified. U14 and U15 ROMs labeled. LM1875 amplifier and TO-220 Sil-pad. 2x 1uf/35v tantalum capacitors (C46, C47). 22uf/50v/105c, 5x 47uf/25v, 2x 47uf/35v/105c, 100uf/25v/105c and 2x 4700uf/35v/105c capacitors. All headers and fuses reflowed. Fuses removed and checked -- okay. Two-tier full functional testing:
WMS WPC Dot Matrix Display Controller (SN 53336104986 with prior repairs and burning components/traces): Fuses removed and checked -- 2x 3/8 amp slow blow fuses (3/4 amp installed). 2x 150uf/150v axial capacitors. 2x burned traces repaired. 100uf/25v/105c and 3x 0.1uf/250v metal film capacitors. 2x 2n5401, 2x 2n5551, 2x MJE15031 and MJE15031 transistors. 3x TO-220 Sil-pads. 2x 120 ohm 1/2 watt and 4x 47k 1/2 watt resistors. 1N4742A, 1N4759A and 2x 1n4758a zener diodes. 120 ohm 5 watt, 1.8k ohm 5 watt and 4.7k ohm 5 watt ceramic power resistors. Board cleaned-up. Two-tier full functional testing
WMS WPC-8 Driver board (with prior repairs. Clock not working): 2x zero ohm resistors (PW1/3). Reflow headers. Two-tier full functional testing
So.... just a couple things fixed?
I just removed my gumball machine for cleaning and rebuilding. It's the last thing on my TZ that has yet to go trough the "wringer" as part of one of the slowest full shop-jobs ever, I'm sure. I realized after cleaning off the heaviest sections of dirt/grime, that for everything I've ever done on my TZ, I always forget to take "before" pictures. Not that I need them for reference, but just to show how broken something was or how dirty and disgusting it used to be.
Quoted from btw75:Thought I'd share the extent of the board refurbishment. Believe it or not, this pin worked fine with no resets.
WMS WPC-3 Power Driver board (No serial number. Prior repair and battery corrosion throughout driver transistor area): Beyond economical repair. !!Still need one of these!! Pm me or Bryan if you have one.
WMS WPC-89 CPU board (No serial number. Extensive prior repairs (NTE parts). Blown logic. Intermittent garbage on display. Inoperative switches. Corroding battery socket (looks to be water damage). Wiring to wrong destination on rear of board. Bad sockets. Broken ASIC socket): 74LS14 IC (U5 -- blown) and 14-pin socket. New 84-pin PLCC socket. New U9 Williams custom ASIC chip (intermittent garbage on display). Replaced game ROM (NOS 27C040 with version 9.4H Twilight Zone game code). Replaced melted U20 IC socket. Replaced NTE chips with OEM -- 74LS374 (U14) and 74LS240 ICs (U15). Corrected incorrect wiring on rear. Fixed open trace and added Kapton tape. Removed damaged IC sockets from U16, U17. 2x LM339 ICs (U16, U17) and 2x 14-pin IC socket. Removed excess flux from prior repairs. Straightened bent pins. 100uf/25v/105c filter capacitor (C31). J210 high temperature power input header. New type 2 battery holder. Removed a small amount of battery corrosion from board surface. Board cleaned up. Two-tier full functional testing
WMS Fliptronic II (SN 53220180432): All fuses removed and checked -- okay. Added missing 100uf/100v/105c capacitor (C2). 100uf/25v/105c (C1) capacitor. Reflow all headers, bridge rectifier and fuse holders. Two-tier full functional testing.
WMS WPC-89 Sound board (SN 53336104986. Capacitors way out of tolerance/drying-out/high ESR): All socketed ICs removed and tested. Sound ROMs (3) removed, internal data verified. U14 and U15 ROMs labeled. LM1875 amplifier and TO-220 Sil-pad. 2x 1uf/35v tantalum capacitors (C46, C47). 22uf/50v/105c, 5x 47uf/25v, 2x 47uf/35v/105c, 100uf/25v/105c and 2x 4700uf/35v/105c capacitors. All headers and fuses reflowed. Fuses removed and checked -- okay. Two-tier full functional testing:
WMS WPC Dot Matrix Display Controller (SN 53336104986 with prior repairs and burning components/traces): Fuses removed and checked -- 2x 3/8 amp slow blow fuses (3/4 amp installed). 2x 150uf/150v axial capacitors. 2x burned traces repaired. 100uf/25v/105c and 3x 0.1uf/250v metal film capacitors. 2x 2n5401, 2x 2n5551, 2x MJE15031 and MJE15031 transistors. 3x TO-220 Sil-pads. 2x 120 ohm 1/2 watt and 4x 47k 1/2 watt resistors. 1N4742A, 1N4759A and 2x 1n4758a zener diodes. 120 ohm 5 watt, 1.8k ohm 5 watt and 4.7k ohm 5 watt ceramic power resistors. Board cleaned-up. Two-tier full functional testing
WMS WPC-8 Driver board (with prior repairs. Clock not working): 2x zero ohm resistors (PW1/3). Reflow headers. Two-tier full functional testing
Clive is the man. I love the details he gives you.
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