(Topic ID: 252888)

TZ not starting up


By PinballT

47 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 46 days ago by PinballT
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 47 days ago

    Having trouble with my TZ. I went to play this evening and I just get a blank dimly lit display. That is it. All lights are lit on the boards except the the light on the display board is not lit. I have pin sound and LED display. I have a kahr daughter board and the solid red light is on. I have reseated all ribbons and connectors. Also all fuses are good.
    Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

    #2 47 days ago

    I'd measure your voltage test points on the driver board and see if any are low or missing. Starting with the 5 volt one.

    The kahr may have been masking a problem that is now worse.

    LTG : )

    #3 47 days ago

    Thanks Lloyd! If so, would it more than likely be a bridge rectifier?

    #4 47 days ago
    Quoted from PinballT:

    If so, would it more than likely be a bridge rectifier?

    Could be a few things.

    See what is missing first, then work on a cure. Could be power to the board, a board issue, connectors at the board or transformer, etc. etc.

    LTG : )

    #5 47 days ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    The kahr may have been masking a problem that is now worse

    I agree. Remove the kahr and report the results.

    Measuring voltages is definitely the next step.

    #6 46 days ago

    Tip 1- 13.04
    Tip 2- 175 (should be volt)
    Tip 3- 12.04
    Tip 7- 20.05
    Led 4 on driver is also out.

    Any suggestions?

    #7 46 days ago

    Without the kahr board?

    Any burnt pins on J101, especially the 2 red wires?

    #8 46 days ago

    Yes without Kahr. The wires look good.

    #9 46 days ago

    I think you mean TP2 is 175mV? Test F113 with a meter to see if it is blown.

    http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#LEDs_and_test_points_on_WPC-089_Power.2FDriver_Boards

    #10 46 days ago

    Yes TP2.
    F113 is good. Took board off and BR2 looked like a cold solder so resodered it and still same. I have a new rottendog driver board so put that in and everything works great. May just replace all bridge rectifier’s. Anything else that I should replace. I think the issue lies in the bridge rectifier. May bring board with me to York show. I wonder if they are doing repairs there?

    #11 46 days ago
    Quoted from PinballT:

    May just replace all bridge rectifier’s.

    Unless you are very skilled at board repair, I wouldn't do that. You risk more damage than good.

    Just replace what needs it.

    LTG : )

    #12 46 days ago

    Thanks Lloyd. May just replace BR1 and BR2.

    #13 46 days ago

    If you do, I suggest cutting the legs close to the body of the BR as possible. Cut 2 legs then you should be able to cut the other 2 legs after bending the BR over to its side a bit. Then you can just heat the cut leads and remove them.

    #14 46 days ago

    Thanks Guys!
    Are all the BR’s the same size?

    #15 46 days ago

    No. There are many shapes, sizes and different ratings. Get at least 200v 35amp. You can go up higher on the voltage rating, but don't go less than that on either voltage or current rating.

    https://www.pinballlife.com/bridge-rectifier-35amp-200volt.html

    #16 46 days ago

    Sorry, I meant to say... Are all 5 BR’s the same —> at least 200v 35 amp. I have changed a few in the past and they were the same.

    #17 46 days ago

    Yes, manual states that.

    #18 46 days ago

    Thanks so much!!!! I appreciate the help!

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