(Topic ID: 4280)

TZ not powering up (LED 2 & 4 not illuminated on Power Driver Board)


By Waldo

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Waldo
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

#1 8 years ago

My roommate was playing TZ and he said the free credit loud knocker went off three times then the whole machine powered down (except for a few aftermarker LED's - see below).

When I power it on - all that comes on is are a few of the aftermarket LED light mod's I have installed. I have pulled these off so they aren't the trouble. I have also tested all the fuses and didn't find a bad one.

Also the #2 and #4 LED's on the Power Driver Board are not illuminated.

Anyone have any ideas?

#2 8 years ago

#2 is high power sense and should normally be ON while right next to it, #3 should be normally OFF. #4 is your +5 volts and without that you're dead in the water.

Check fuses first. Don't just look at them, take them out and check with your ohm meter.

In particular look at F101, 102, 103, 104, 105 and F111, F112 for the high voltage and F113 for the +5vdc

#3 8 years ago

Cliffy,

Thanks for the reply.

Tried all those, they are all good. Did notice when I pulled off F112 that it was a 10A 32V non SB, when the book calls for 7A, SB. Could that have done some damage. Only had this TZ two weeks.

#4 8 years ago

Another data point. When I pull F113 on my other perfectly fine machine (+5V Logic) it behaves exactly the same way as TZ, so the issue has to be something similar.

#5 8 years ago

Yeah. Overfused like that means it probably had a leaky bridge rectifier and was blowing the fuses. Someone obviously just upped the fuse size instead of finding and fixing the cause.
F112 is the fuse for BR3 ac voltage input. When you remove that fuse you cut out all the high voltage.

And yes, pulling F113 removes the ac input voltage to BR2, the 5 volt power supply bridge.
I suspect you have a shorted diode in BR2 and this is fairly common. It's usually the first bridge rec to go. Hopefully you're handy with a soldering pencil

#6 8 years ago

Well now I did it. Pulled the entire power driver board to swap with wh20 to check and see if I should just send the board out for repair (I'm not handy with a soldering pencil )

The Wh20 board worked in TZ initially when I powered it on but the DMD was now dead. Turned it off waited awhile then turned it back on and nothing. Swapped it back to Wh2o and now that one is dead as well (ie the original problem TZ had now wh20 has with the original wh20 board as well)

Now I'm gonna cry cause both my machines are bustimicated.....and I wanted to play some pinball...

Anyone have any idea what is causing this?

#7 8 years ago
Quoted from Waldo:

Well now I did it. Pulled the entire power driver board to swap with wh20 to check and see if I should just send the board out for repair (I'm not handy with a soldering pencil [] )

The Wh20 board worked in TZ initially when I powered it on but the DMD was now dead. Turned it off waited awhile then turned it back on and nothing. Swapped it back to Wh2o and now that one is dead as well (ie the original problem TZ had now wh20 has with the original wh20 board as well)

Now I'm gonna cry cause both my machines are bustimicated.....and I wanted to play some pinball...

Anyone have any idea what is causing this?

Go back and check your connections on that board

#8 8 years ago

I guess its too late to say I never recommend that kind of shotgun approach

When we do a board swap for testing we don't plug in anything except power to begin with. Then the switch matrix and if all is well the solenoids and flashers one section at a time.

All is not lost. You should be able to diagnose the wh20 board easily by led's and fuse checks. I'm betting a fuse blew on the HV supply which powers the dmd.

#9 8 years ago

I must have been tired last night. Accidentely put the bad board into WH2O - duh. So the original issue is still the only one I got. Gonna call an expert over since there is still issues even when a good power driver board is in the machine....

Thanks for the replies and I'll keep checking in case someone has more ideas...

#10 8 years ago

Well thats good to hear
So, you still have the same problem(s) in my opinion. Change BR2 or at least do the diode checks on it and all the bridges. The pinwiki should have the basics of testing bridges, I would think

#11 8 years ago

Thanks Cliffy,

That experience scared me into calling in backup. A pro is doing just that, but he didn't have the right type of BR so he is bringing it back tomorrow. But sounds like your diagnosis was spot on.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 109.99

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside