Maybe pull and check fuses with a meter. Then check the voltage test points. Before throwing money at it.
LTG : )
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Maybe pull and check fuses with a meter. Then check the voltage test points. Before throwing money at it.
LTG : )
Fuse F117 ? ( there isn't one )
Pull and check fuse F116 with a meter. That is your 12 volts secondary. For motors. Geneva switch may have come up in error because it hasn't been used recently, or could need attention.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mickpat:Sorry, I meant fuse 111.
That fuse is for flashers.
If you need it, you can download the manual here to help you.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2684/Bally_1993_Twilight_Zone_Operations_Manual_OCR_searchable.pdf
There is a fuse chart in there. Page 1-47
LTG : )
Quoted from THJM:But I have no idea what I should be testing on the driver board. How does the Gumball motor connect to the driver board?
Back of the manual has pinouts for the various boards. Find where 12 volts leaves the driver board and see if you have power leaving when it should ( in test ? ) Follow wire colors.
Quoted from THJM:I have replaced fuses F111 and F116 but no change.
Were they bad when checked with a meter ?
Check the voltage test points on the driver board, see if any are low or missing.
LTG : )
Quoted from THJM:Currently I'm thinking I should just get the Marco Specialties WPC power driver board rebuild kit and replace all the bridge rectifiers, capacitors, etc.
Shot gun approach is bad. You will do more board damage than good. If the 20 volt bridge rectifier is bad, I'd just replace that.
Unless you are skilled at board repair. It's too easy to lose through board continuity under the capacitors.
LTG : )
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