Got sick of having intermittent fake robot/lock shots registering on my TZ, so I bit the bullet and went through the pain-in-the-@$$ process of removing the lock opto assembly (including the right ramp, clock, etc.).

I soldered in 4 new optos.
On the emitter (light colored opto) side, it's easy as the flat side is silkscreened on the PCB, and goes toward the K. Grey wires soldered to the left "A" side, black to the "K" right side looking at the back.
On the receiver side (dark colored opto), the flat side/short leg goes with the "C" side. From the back, grey wires to the "C" side, and orange wires to the "E" side. Continuity tested.

When I connect back up the assembly and go into test mode (note: clock and right ramp not connected), the switches for both lock optos (and I think gumball entry as well?!?!?) trip and stay tripped until I remove the 3x2 6-pin molex connector. Interrupting the optos does nothing.

This seemed like such a simple task, and I've done opto replacements before. I feel like I'm missing something stupid/obvious, so am posting here for help.

So with everything but the lock opto moles plugged in, the game checks out fine. I have the GLM 10 opto board. As soon as I plug that connector in, I have green lights on all the LEDs, but 4 of them are blinking. The 2 magnet optos on that same opto board connector stop working too.

Anyone see anything obvious? I dont get it.

Pics and video attached

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1q6SHGWZrWtojTU-AvkFmfpzSJpWQHnme