I'm looking for some good photos of where to solder the jumper wires on the back of my TZ power driver board. No 5V at the moment, but would like to get them all soldered in if possible. Thanks!

You guys rock! I had to add one jumper to positive leads of BR2 and C5. Got my 5V back. Game booted.

Now to move on to the next far more serious problem.

My game has one of those old WPC NO-POP boards installed. Before all of this, I somehow managed to reverse one plug on the Z Connector that goes into the WPC Audio board J501, so effectively, I think I had that J501 connector in backwards and possibly some other weird electrical stuff going on because it's tied thru the NO-POP board. I saw smoke from transistor under largest heat sink on audio board and glowing from the 2 fuses. Both fuses are blown so I'll see if I have some extras tonight.

There's also one black wire hanging stray from the NO-POP wiring harness and I have no idea where it's supposed to go. If anyone has photo of that harness that would be helpful, but I'll take that out of the equation for now to see if I can get audio back.

I'll post update after replacing 2 fuses on audio board.

OK, got everything hooked back up. Now I'm getting loud low frequency hum out of all speakers. Is something fried?

On the bright side, I think game is working other than audio.

Chris

Not anymore. I think that LM1875T was basically sparking and smoking earlier. Now I just get a loud hum from the speakers.

I was trying to find what I needed to order from GPE, but they're out of at least one of the caps. Will I need all the parts, or can I get away with just replacing LM1875T?

Thanks!

Nothing on the PCB looks fire roasted at all. Is there a way to test anything with DMM?

Chris, I tested my LM1875T on the board with DMM on diode test.

Pins 1,2 were about 1.5V

Pin 4 was shorted

Pin 5 would slowly climb from about 1.5V to 2.4V and then say OL

I don't have the board in front of me, but is this the portion of the schematic showing where the 5 pins on the amp go to?

Capture.jpg

Measuring it that way I get:

1... .790
2... .800
4... Shorted
5... .964

From the correct schematic, it looks like pin 4 goes to the speaker.

I ordered some LM1875T's so I'll try replacing it when they show up. GPE is on vacation, so I didn't order any caps yet.

I replaced the LM1875T and we have audio again on TZ!!! Thanks guys!