Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider chrishibler.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Yes, replace the associated capacitor, which IIRC is in fact C30.
I haven't done all the research on this, but if you are referring to vertical bars, missing 12V has caused that on my TZ. I'm theorizing that one of the dot manufacturers requires 12V but the other does not.
When you remove C30, be very careful. Through holes can easily be pulled. If pulled either use a solder stitch to fix or (gasp), run jumpers.
--
Chris Hibler
It sounds like you would be better off sending the board to a pro.
Caps do no just snap out. There is a technique to get them out, along with experience.
You don't want to hack the board.
Do you have vertical lines or bars?
You can't test the cap without an expensive piece of equipment.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
OK. The wide bars are lack of 12V to the display.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider chrishibler.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-has-a-bad-br5-bridge-rectifier-and-blows-f116-fuse?tu=chrishibler and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Chesterfield, MO